I bought a Diablo 80 tooth blade back in December/Jan time frame.

I finally mounted it, nice cuts. Then while cutting a 2x3 for a built in
I am making the damn thing kicked back and twisted the wood in my miter
saw. I have never had a problem with previous blades...

So then I notice it is not cutting as smooth and I don't see a
problem... Well, while cleaning up I see a tooth... damn... then I
notice that that tooths mount is bent.... So when it kicked back it bent
the mount. Lots of red anti stick on the wood.

There doesn't appear to be much of a braze on this tooth. Not that I
would know. This is my first tooth lost on a new blade. I have lost
teeth on older blades, but that's expected heat... age, brittleness.

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

"tiredofspam" wrote:
I bought a Diablo 80 tooth blade back in December/Jan time frame.

I finally mounted it, nice cuts. Then while cutting a 2x3 for a
built in I am making the damn thing kicked back and twisted the wood
in my miter saw. I have never had a problem with previous blades...

So then I notice it is not cutting as smooth and I don't see a
problem... Well, while cleaning up I see a tooth... damn... then I
notice that that tooths mount is bent.... So when it kicked back it
bent the mount. Lots of red anti stick on the wood.

There doesn't appear to be much of a braze on this tooth. Not that I
would know. This is my first tooth lost on a new blade. I have lost
teeth on older blades, but that's expected heat... age, brittleness.

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do
you think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did
I kick back and break the tooth?
-----------------------------------
Time for a trip to a blade sharpening service for analysis and repair
by the pros.

Lew

On 8/4/2011 4:34 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
I bought a Diablo 80 tooth blade back in December/Jan time frame.

I finally mounted it, nice cuts. Then while cutting a 2x3 for a built in
I am making the damn thing kicked back and twisted the wood in my miter
saw. I have never had a problem with previous blades...

So then I notice it is not cutting as smooth and I don't see a
problem... Well, while cleaning up I see a tooth... damn... then I
notice that that tooths mount is bent.... So when it kicked back it bent
the mount. Lots of red anti stick on the wood.

There doesn't appear to be much of a braze on this tooth. Not that I
would know. This is my first tooth lost on a new blade. I have lost
teeth on older blades, but that's expected heat... age, brittleness.

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

Just a SWAG, but the kickback probably caused the problem ... not
uncommon to get kickback if the wood is slightly curved, or not sitting
square, with either table or the fence of a miter saw.

In short, I would probably blame the wood for the kickback, and the
blade tooth problem on the kickback.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

In article , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed
against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the
blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right
side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut
portion of the board into the blade.

Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards
you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely
against the fence.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 8/4/2011 9:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed
against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the
blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right
side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut
portion of the board into the blade.

Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards
you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely
against the fence.


And I am guessing all these Diablo blades are thin kerf which do not
handle stress well.

It wasn't a warped board. It was straight.
I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence.
So it is perplexing me...

Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by
kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.

On 8/4/2011 10:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed
against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the
blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right
side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut
portion of the board into the blade.

Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards
you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely
against the fence.

Yep, the 80tooth miter is a thin kerf. I don't think the plate is bent,
but the tooths mount is definitely.

Seems Freud has already responded. I'll send it back and see what
happens. I am impressed that they responded with in a day by email.
That's a good sign.

On 8/5/2011 8:16 AM, Leon wrote:
On 8/4/2011 9:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed
against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the
blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right
side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut
portion of the board into the blade.

Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards
you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely
against the fence.


And I am guessing all these Diablo blades are thin kerf which do not
handle stress well.

On 8/5/11 7:16 AM, Leon wrote:
On 8/4/2011 9:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/4/11 9:04 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , tiredofspam
wrote:

Has anyone else thrown a tooth this early... a dozen or so cuts. Do you
think the tooth broke loose first causing the kickback??? or did I kick
back and break the tooth?

I had an 80 tooth blade kick back on the miter saw. I'm still not sure
why it happened, but the blade was ruined. Seriously bent out of shape.
I bought a cheap clock mechanism and it's on the shop wall as a
reminder of how friggin lucky I was.

A lot of kickback on miter saws occurs when a warped board in placed
against the fence, with space between the fence and the board, at the
blade. The blade cuts through most of the board and the left and right
side of the board starts move towards the fence, pulling the uncut
portion of the board into the blade.

Either don't cut warped boards, or make sure the warp is concave towards
you, convex against the fence, and that you're holding one side securely
against the fence.


And I am guessing all these Diablo blades are thin kerf which do not
handle stress well.

True. I hate thin kerf blades, even on my circ saw. As soon as I had
saws that all had high horse power, I got rid of every thin-kerf I
owned. It's hard to kind anything but thin kerf blades for circ saws.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 8/5/11 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
It wasn't a warped board. It was straight.
I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence.
So it is perplexing me...

Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by
kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.


TS? Sorry, I was talking about a miter saw.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Yea I was talking about kickback on the Miter saw that happened.
But was comparing it to a TS kickback.

When I have had kick back on the TS it doesn't usually scare me... I
just hold it tight and push through. But the Miter saw scared the crap
out of me.

I hadn't clamped the wood... I never do unless Its a miter, never on a
straight cut. So the miter saw kick back was way more violent. This just
picked up a 2x3 and rolled it up toward the blade. Then jammed it


On 8/5/2011 1:31 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/5/11 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
It wasn't a warped board. It was straight.
I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence.
So it is perplexing me...

Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by
kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.


TS? Sorry, I was talking about a miter saw.

On 8/5/2011 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

It wasn't a warped board. It was straight.
I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence.
So it is perplexing me...

Just surmising again, but being a thin kerf, a piece of "reaction wood",
or case hardened wood that would move just enough, on the side you were
not holding, to bind the thinner blade would be a definite possibility,
and an 80 tooth blade is definitely prone to bind, even in a straight
cut ... even a fine tooth handsaw will prove that quickly enought.

From your updated description about the blade, it sounds as if it is a
combination of both adding up to the stock binding the blade.

Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by
kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.

Rough cutting a good deal of uneven S2S1E stock to length, it happens
enough that I've gotten used to kick back on my LS1013.

Even though I expect it to happen, it's still a heart thumper when it
does, so I feel your pain!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Yea, maybe the 80t was more prone.
I have the LS1013 too. I was using a 60T previously.

I thought I wanted finer crosscuts. I have a WWII for my TS. And figured
the 80T would give me nice results. It was nice for the few cuts before
it blew the tooth, but not anymore.



On 8/5/2011 2:39 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 8/5/2011 11:07 AM, tiredofspam wrote:

It wasn't a warped board. It was straight.
I am at a loss. I thought it was tight against the fence.
So it is perplexing me...

Just surmising again, but being a thin kerf, a piece of "reaction wood",
or case hardened wood that would move just enough, on the side you were
not holding, to bind the thinner blade would be a definite possibility,
and an 80 tooth blade is definitely prone to bind, even in a straight
cut ... even a fine tooth handsaw will prove that quickly enought.

From your updated description about the blade, it sounds as if it is a
combination of both adding up to the stock binding the blade.

Yea it did scare the heck out of me. I don't usually get scared by
kickback on the TS, but this one shocked me.

Rough cutting a good deal of uneven S2S1E stock to length, it happens
enough that I've gotten used to kick back on my LS1013.

Even though I expect it to happen, it's still a heart thumper when it
does, so I feel your pain!

On 8/5/2011 3:54 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Yea, maybe the 80t was more prone.
I have the LS1013 too. I was using a 60T previously.

I thought I wanted finer crosscuts. I have a WWII for my TS. And figured
the 80T would give me nice results. It was nice for the few cuts before
it blew the tooth, but not anymore.

Forrest Chopmaster

Simply can't be beat.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote

Just a SWAG, but the kickback probably caused the problem ... not
uncommon to get kickback if the wood is slightly curved, or not sitting
square, with either table or the fence of a miter saw.

In short, I would probably blame the wood for the kickback, and the
blade tooth problem on the kickback.
---------------------------------------------------------
Agreed. The first thing I teach my students on using a chop saw or radial
arm saw is to make sure the wood is in contact with bot the fence and the
table closest to where the blade is passing through the wood. There is a
way the wood can be turned and flipped that those two conditions will both
be met.

-- Jim in NC