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wood screws
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly
work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 12:18 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Jamestown Distributors nver mind. i found them -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 12:02 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! Good luck finding an exclusive American made screw. For the better style screws driver design seems to make the most difference. Look for at least the square head design and forget about slotted and Phillips. Mcfeeleys is a good source be does not sell exclusive American. I have been buying from the for so long that I forget how long, 20+++. They stand behind their product. BTY working with hard woods you want to use a fine thread design. |
wood screws
Steve Barker wrote in
: Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! I forget why I started to use their screws, but I do like them: http://screw-products.com/ I have no idea where the screws are fabricated, but the website looks like this is a US outfit. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve Barker wrote: Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? McFeeley's does, probably Rockler too. Since you are using oak, keep in mind that you need to use stainless or bronze. Brass is OK but easier to break. Why would you, "I" need to switch to stainless or bronze for oak? Regular steel has been working out fine for me for the last 30+ years. I do not have a problem with streaking or staining but then again I do not use a "bar of soap" as a thread lubricant. |
wood screws
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email I use mostly oak. Use the gold colored and some times the galvinized (dry wall screws) .. I predrill holes and use bees wax for lube. No problins. WW |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 7:43 AM, WW wrote:
"Steve wrote in message ... Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email I use mostly oak. Use the gold colored and some times the galvinized (dry wall screws) .. I predrill holes and use bees wax for lube. No problins. WW Sorry, but that is the advice of inexperience. Dry wall screws are good for drywall. A normal wood screw with any head design other than straight blade or Phillips is far superior. FWIW I used dry wall screws for years until I learned/understood why the right screw for the job was the better choice. Dry wall screws are simply too light weight and brittle for working with hard woods. |
wood screws
Steve Barker wrote the following:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! I use SS screws outdoors or indoors. They don't rust and can be reused. They come with various head drives like square, star and phillips.The only drawback is that they are more expensive than regular screws. -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
wood screws
"Steve Barker" wrote in message
... Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email These work well for me. (in different sizes as needed) Max http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0810...ow-Zinc-Screws |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 12:02 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? Quit using Rockler's screws for critical applications, like joining Face Frames ... simply snapped too damn many in the process. For general purpose, where if one snaps it's not a big deal, they're OK. I tend to buy bulk whenever I buy them and, for critical applications, try to get them from a local cabinet supply shop, or tool supplier, as they seem to have the better quality screws in bulk than most national chains, like Rockler, WoodCraft, etc. FWIW & IME, good places in Houston to buy screws are Circle Saw, CornerStone Hardware and Louis & Co. That said, in this day and age, that could change tomorrow. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve Barker wrote: Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? McFeeley's does, probably Rockler too. Since you are using oak, keep in mind that you need to use stainless or bronze. Brass is OK but easier to break. can you elaborate on the reason to use brass or ss? So far i've been using some regular steel screws. thanks, -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
wood screws
On 6/29/11 11:20 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Since you are using oak, keep in mind that you need to use stainless or bronze. Brass is OK but easier to break. can you elaborate on the reason to use brass or ss? So far i've been using some regular steel screws. thanks, You don't. It's the return of the dreaded "oak rust" myth. Pre-drilling oak or any other "hard" hardwood is a good idea. When considering other typed of screw heads, keep in mind that the driver is probably more important than the screw head. A poor square drive head on a driver bit will round over and lose its grip, nullifying as advantage of the head design. There are Phillips type head/bit combos that are as strip free as square head or star head, because the head and tip match perfectly. When choosing a square head driver, look for the tip to be hardened steel and not just a die-punched portion of the steel shaft. The ones that appear to be a separate piece and different kind of metal attached to the driver shaft have always held their shape and performed much better for me. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
On 6/29/11 1:32 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Steve Barker wrote: On 6/29/2011 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote: Steve Barker wrote: Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? McFeeley's does, probably Rockler too. Since you are using oak, keep in mind that you need to use stainless or bronze. Brass is OK but easier to break. can you elaborate on the reason to use brass or ss? So far i've been using some regular steel screws. Oak is acidic. In time, it will streak from corrosion of steel fastenings, particularly in a damp or humid environment. The same is true of various other woods, western red cedar beng a common one. Mr. Myth Man Mike not experiencing it doesn't mean it doesn't happen. BTW, if you ever need to use brass it is a good idea to use a same size steel screw first to cut the threads, remove it and insert the brass one. Brass is very weak. Ok, then here's my question. We're talking about screw heads, right? What kind of woodworker is leaving screw-heads exposed on his woodwork? This guy asked about screws he could take in and out, so I assumed it's not for furniture or cabinets. Yes, I've seen stains in wood from fasteners and my first thought wasn't, "Gee, he should have used SS pins or brads." No, my first thought is, "What kind of hack woodworker leaves exposed fasteners and doesn't fill his nail holes?" -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
On 6/29/11 1:54 PM, dadiOH wrote:
One could also ask, what kind of hack woodworker uses nails? Or does not counterbore for screws and use plugs? I agree. In both cases there are times when a nail or screw can be exposed and look good. We all have opinions. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
In article , -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/29/11 1:32 PM, dadiOH wrote: Ok, then here's my question. We're talking about screw heads, right? What kind of woodworker is leaving screw-heads exposed on his woodwork? This guy asked about screws he could take in and out, so I assumed it's not for furniture or cabinets. Yes, I've seen stains in wood from fasteners and my first thought wasn't, "Gee, he should have used SS pins or brads." No, my first thought is, "What kind of hack woodworker leaves exposed fasteners and doesn't fill his nail holes?" I may have missed it, but I've seen nothing in this thread that would lead me to believe anyone was leaving any screw heads exposed. I've built lots of pieces with screws used on the back or bottom, and occasionally on the top of very tall items, that were not visible. -- There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org |
wood screws
On 6/29/11 6:40 PM, Larry W wrote:
In , wrote: On 6/29/11 1:32 PM, dadiOH wrote: Ok, then here's my question. We're talking about screw heads, right? What kind of woodworker is leaving screw-heads exposed on his woodwork? This guy asked about screws he could take in and out, so I assumed it's not for furniture or cabinets. Yes, I've seen stains in wood from fasteners and my first thought wasn't, "Gee, he should have used SS pins or brads." No, my first thought is, "What kind of hack woodworker leaves exposed fasteners and doesn't fill his nail holes?" I may have missed it, but I've seen nothing in this thread that would lead me to believe anyone was leaving any screw heads exposed. I've built lots of pieces with screws used on the back or bottom, and occasionally on the top of very tall items, that were not visible. It was brought up that they would streak from corrosion. I'd doubt anyone would care about streaking on the bottom or back of a piece, even though it would still be lazy not to cover those up, imo. This leads one to believe if you care about streaking, they can be seen. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
Steve Barker wrote:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! Don't think screws are made in the US anymore! -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Man. 2010.1 Spring KDE4.4 2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb |
wood screws THANKS for all the replies
On 6/29/2011 12:02 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! I would like to thank everyone for their replies. I realize it's gonna be hard to find an American made product. I'm mainly interested in getting something that won't strip out if i have the pilot hole a bit small or not deep enough. I'm just getting started in this wood working thing at 53 years old I've got a fairly decent table saw, a million year old (but tight) radial arm saw and a nice new dewalt planer. I'm currently working on fixing up a jointer. I have 500+ board feet of red oak, purchased at a cost of 72 cents (yes, seventy-two cents) per bd ft. I'm looking forward to making some things for around the house. Nothing fancy, no ornate furniture and the like. I love red oak and real lacquer. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 8:48 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/29/2011 7:43 AM, WW wrote: I use mostly oak. Use the gold colored and some times the galvinized (dry wall screws) .. I predrill holes and use bees wax for lube. No problins. WW Sorry, but that is the advice of inexperience. Dry wall screws are good for drywall. I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available. A normal wood screw with any head design other than straight blade or Phillips is far superior. I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used... FWIW I used dry wall screws for years until I learned/understood why the right screw for the job was the better choice. Dry wall screws are simply too light weight and brittle for working with hard woods. I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same. -- Jack You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out! http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
On 6/29/2011 8:29 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
I may have missed it, but I've seen nothing in this thread that would lead me to believe anyone was leaving any screw heads exposed. I've built lots of pieces with screws used on the back or bottom, and occasionally on the top of very tall items, that were not visible. It was brought up that they would streak from corrosion. I've yet to see any screw streak from corrosion as long as the wood, any type, remained dry. Indoor wood work generally remains dry, other than in a steam room or bath. I'd doubt anyone would care about streaking on the bottom or back of a piece, even though it would still be lazy not to cover those up, imo. This leads one to believe if you care about streaking, they can be seen. If the piece is subject to moisture to the extent it would streak, as in out doors, then, stainless is the best answer. Otherwise it just doesn't matter, long as the screws don't break or heads strip out easily. -- Jack You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out! http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
On 6/30/2011 10:08 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 6/29/2011 8:29 PM, -MIKE- wrote: I may have missed it, but I've seen nothing in this thread that would lead me to believe anyone was leaving any screw heads exposed. I've built lots of pieces with screws used on the back or bottom, and occasionally on the top of very tall items, that were not visible. It was brought up that they would streak from corrosion. I've yet to see any screw streak from corrosion as long as the wood, any type, remained dry. Indoor wood work generally remains dry, other than in a steam room or bath. I'd doubt anyone would care about streaking on the bottom or back of a piece, even though it would still be lazy not to cover those up, imo. This leads one to believe if you care about streaking, they can be seen. If the piece is subject to moisture to the extent it would streak, as in out doors, then, stainless is the best answer. Otherwise it just doesn't matter, long as the screws don't break or heads strip out easily. If the "red oak" piece is subject to moisture out doors, streaking is going to be the least of his worries. Red Oak will last about 4~5 years out doors and exposed to the elements. |
wood screws
On Jun 28, 10:02*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
Looking for recommendations for general purpose wood screws. *i mostly work with red oak varying from 1 1/8" and thinner. *I just want a decent american made screw i can take in and out (if need be) without tearing the **** out of the head of the screw. (like the locally purchased ones) I found rockler and mcfeeleys so far. *Do each of them sell decent screws? thanks! -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
wood screws
"Jack Stein" wrote in message ...
On 6/29/2011 8:48 AM, Leon wrote: On 6/29/2011 7:43 AM, WW wrote: I use mostly oak. Use the gold colored and some times the galvinized (dry wall screws) .. I predrill holes and use bees wax for lube. No problins. WW Sorry, but that is the advice of inexperience. Dry wall screws are good for drywall. I like dry wall screws, particularly the course threaded screws. Dry wall screws are no good for exterior use, but are fine for indoor use because they are case hardened so the heads never strip out. They are also cheap and readily available. A normal wood screw with any head design other than straight blade or Phillips is far superior. I like Phillips because they are the most common screw type and they work good enough, particularly in drywall screws because the heads never strip out. I have square head Robinson screws which work fine, but you end up constantly changing bits. For that reason I like Phillips, and my Swiss Army knife has Phillips and slotted but no Robertson. I've fixed everything from pool tables to deck chairs with my knife, but not when funky screw heads are used... FWIW I used dry wall screws for years until I learned/understood why the right screw for the job was the better choice. Dry wall screws are simply too light weight and brittle for working with hard woods. I, like you, have used them for years. I don't recall a failure, ever, other than using them outdoors. They last about a year out doors, and indoors they simply work fine. Outdoors, SS is the only way to go, indoors, SS is a waste of money. Drywall screws don't rust in Oak unless in a wet environment, then everything other than brass and SS rust, regardless of wood type. Of course, like everything, there are Drywall screws and then there are drywall screws. They are not all the same. ================ Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes. -- Eric |
wood screws
On 7/3/2011 7:36 PM, Eric wrote:
Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes. I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me. -- Jack You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out! http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
"Jack Stein" wrote in message ...
On 7/3/2011 7:36 PM, Eric wrote: Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes. I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me. ==================== Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. They suck and have been replaced by popular demand by many wanting a better system. But have a look at this! Just when you thought you had seen it all! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives -- Eric |
wood screws
On 7/4/11 2:21 PM, Eric wrote:
Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. -- Eric Bull****. :-) I don't believe that for a second. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 14:52:37 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/4/11 2:21 PM, Eric wrote: Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. -- Eric Bull****. :-) I don't believe that for a second. Don't know if you're pulling legs, but... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Phillips Head: "Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers." If you want to be able to break the head, use a Posidriv (also invented by Phillips). ;-) (later) "Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks." |
wood screws
On 7/4/2011 4:16 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
.... ... An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." roger that... -- |
wood screws
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/4/11 3:38 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 14:52:37 -0500, wrote: On 7/4/11 2:21 PM, Eric wrote: Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. -- Eric Bull****. :-) I don't believe that for a second. Don't know if you're pulling legs, but... Yes and no... thus the smiley face. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Phillips Head: "Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers." If you want to be able to break the head, use a Posidriv (also invented by Phillips). ;-) (later) "Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks." 1st. Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source in the world. It's barely a step up from all of us in this newsgroup spouting off our opinions, old wives tales, and stuff we heard a guy tell us that his brother-in-laws' buddy's dad told him. (However, for the sake of this discussion, I will stipulate that this page is 100% accurate.) True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef? 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-) |
wood screws
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. |
wood screws
On 7/4/11 5:26 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: On 7/4/11 3:38 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 14:52:37 -0500, wrote: On 7/4/11 2:21 PM, Eric wrote: Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. -- Eric Bull****. :-) I don't believe that for a second. Don't know if you're pulling legs, but... Yes and no... thus the smiley face. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Phillips Head: "Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers." If you want to be able to break the head, use a Posidriv (also invented by Phillips). ;-) (later) "Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks." 1st. Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source in the world. It's barely a step up from all of us in this newsgroup spouting off our opinions, old wives tales, and stuff we heard a guy tell us that his brother-in-laws' buddy's dad told him. (However, for the sake of this discussion, I will stipulate that this page is 100% accurate.) True, but if you don't like any information you get here, or the web, exactly why is it that you waste your time here? I explained that in my earlier post. I have some friends in here. I enjoy the interaction. When I want info from experienced woodworkers, I know who the 4 or 5 guys are who know what their talking about and who constitutes the noise. If it's 100% accurate, exactly what is your beef? google: stipulate 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Well, camming out of a Phillips driver has been pretty effective at stripping the heads for me. Works when dumb techs try Phillips drivers with Pozidriv screws, too. ;-) :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
On 7/4/11 8:45 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. I'm not the one who brought it up. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
wood screws
In article , says...
On 7/4/11 8:45 PM, wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. I'm not the one who brought it up. Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who has worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result is a buggered up head that won't take much torque. |
wood screws
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 21:45:14 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, -MIKE- wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. How many care if a drywall screw has a buggered head. |
wood screws
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 23:24:07 -0500, "
How many care if a drywall screw has a buggered head? Many people if it's not inserted properly. A properly constructed drywall screw cams out very easily when inserted by a professional installer. Speed of installation and proper screw depth are an important thing to people who earn their living by installing drywall. |
wood screws
On 7/4/2011 3:21 PM, Eric wrote:
"Jack Stein" wrote in message ... On 7/3/2011 7:36 PM, Eric wrote: Square Head and Robertson are two different heads that people confuse. Robertson heads have a tapered recess with a Morse taper that self-locks onto the bit. The Phillips look-a-like square head does not. Robertson has no numbers, but rather colors, to identify sizes. I didn't know that, but regardless, my Swiss army knife doesn't have that driver type, so when I'm sitting on Susie's deck and one of the deck chairs a square head guy made her has a loose screw, my Swiss army knife can't do much about it, so I prefer Phillips screws, but only for reasons of consistency and commonality and they work good enough for me. ==================== Philips screw heads were designed to eliminate overtorquing them by ensuring the tip of the screwdriver ramps out of the slot and effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect. Well the design fails as I seldom strip out a head, never on a drywall screw, and have driven screws deep into wood, and have broken high quality SS deck screws without ramping out of the slot. They may not be as good as a Robertson, or a number of other designs, but certainly good enough. They suck and have been replaced by popular demand by many wanting a better system. Not quite yet, at least not in the US. When standard Swiss Army knife comes with a Robertson driver instead of a Phillips, I'll believe the Robertson is gaining ground:-) But have a look at this! Just when you thought you had seen it all! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives I've seen all those and used many of them, still prefer Phillips for the same reason the Swiss Army Knife comes with a Phillips rather than say a TP3 or even a Robertson... -- Jack Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad. http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
On 7/4/2011 10:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , says... On 7/4/11 8:45 PM, wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. I'm not the one who brought it up. Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who has worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result is a buggered up head that won't take much torque. Case hardened drywall screws don't end up with a buggered up heads. With minimum effort, a quality Phillips head screw works just fine for 99% of wood shop needs. The advantages of other types of heads is mitigated by the fact Swiss army knives come with Phillips head drivers, and Aunt Bessy has a Phillips head screwdriver in her kitchen junk drawer, and she has no clue what a hexalobular socket head, or a Robertson is, let alone have a means to attack it. Since Phillips works good enough with few problems, it is the screw of choice... In my shop. -- Jack You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out! http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
On 7/5/2011 12:24 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 21:45:14 wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. How many care if a drywall screw has a buggered head. The same number of people that use them. That's probably why they make'm so the heads don't "bugger". -- Jack You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out! http://jbstein.com |
wood screws
On 7/5/2011 8:46 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/4/2011 10:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote: In , says... On 7/4/11 8:45 PM, wrote: On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500, wrote: 2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a side effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being designed to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads." Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as drywall screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the drywall. I'm not the one who brought it up. Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who has worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result is a buggered up head that won't take much torque. Case hardened drywall screws don't end up with a buggered up heads. Their heads seldom become none useful, you just hear the click when the screw shank breaks. |
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