I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...d own%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...ps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?


-- Andy Barss

On 6/12/11 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...d own%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...ps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?


-- Andy Barss

When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21272
http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-w...ing-clamps.cfm

I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.

If you decide on the metal hold downs, go with the Rocklers that have
the thicker rubber pads. Bare metal with mar and dent many woods and the
thinner rubber with wear off.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/12/2011 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...d own%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...ps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?


-- Andy Barss

Been there, done it. I used the toggle lever clamps and they do need
adjustments. I went cheap and screwed them to small square blocks and
screwed those blocks down to the sled where needed. IIRC I only used a
pair.

The clamps you are thinking about using Look to probably be a better
solution however because none of the clamps actually have a far reach
they will need to be repositioned closer/farther from the sled's cutting
edge. Wider boards need the clamps farther from the cutting edge and
narrower need to be closer.

I would suggest at least 2 rows of t-tracks to allow you more
flexibility. I used the square blocks and moved them around on the sled
because of that situation

In article , Andrew Barss wrote:
I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ld%20d own%20
21912

Those things are a pain in the neck. I got a pair about 8-10 years ago. I
don't use them any more. I find the toggle clamps much easier.

and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...V-%252d-Hold-D
own-Clamps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?

I recommend toggle clamps. :-)

In article , says...

On 6/12/11 12:45 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...d own%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...ps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?


-- Andy Barss

When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21272
http://www.rockler.com/c/specialty-w...ing-clamps.cfm

I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.

If you decide on the metal hold downs, go with the Rocklers that have
the thicker rubber pads. Bare metal with mar and dent many woods and the
thinner rubber with wear off.

Personally these have worked fine for me
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=toggle+clamp.

On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 17:45:46 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
wrote:

I want to finally build a sled for ripping waney-edged boards
on my tablesaw, and am thinking of using this style of hold down
(seems more easily adjustable than the toggle clamps I had planned to use):

Two versions from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...d own%2021912
and
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0hold%20d own
(second one has rubber tips, and is more like Woodpecker's).

And Woodpecker's version:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pro...ps-(Each).html
Anyone have reviews/recommendations?


-- Andy Barss

I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.

But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
feature, if they won't slip off.

By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
a waney-edged board.

Jim

I must be primitive. I just use a couple scraps of wood and some drywall
screws and run them right in to the sled.
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:


I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.

But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
feature, if they won't slip off.

By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
a waney-edged board.

Jim


HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
Festool track saw works great for this.

On Jun 12, 2:07*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ing-clamps.cfm

I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.

I've replaced the hex nuts on mine with wing nuts for the
same reason. Not as slick looking as the knobs, but
does the trick.

On 6/12/11 7:17 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jun 12, 2:07 pm, wrote:

When you say "toggle" are you talking about these?http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ing-clamps.cfm

I prefer these because they seem to hold better and with less pressure.
You will see the newer ones have a knob instead of nut for adjustability
and I find it nearly as fast as the metal hold downs.

I've replaced the hex nuts on mine with wing nuts for the
same reason. Not as slick looking as the knobs, but
does the trick.

Yeah, I used knobs simply because I had a bunch of them.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Doug Miller wrote:
:Anyone have reviews/recommendations?

: I recommend toggle clamps. :-)

Do you have them mounted so they can adjust for different width boards?
That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.

-- Andy Barss

On 6/12/11 8:03 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
Doug wrote:
:Anyone have reviews/recommendations?

: I recommend toggle clamps. :-)

Do you have them mounted so they can adjust for different width boards?
That was the appeal of the other type, mounting them to T-track.

-- Andy Barss

I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.

Sometimes we try to make rocket science out of this stuff. I think it
was Larry who said he uses some scrap and drywall screws... accomplishes
the same thing, for virtually free. As soon as some woodworking catalog
comes out with a new jig, it's like we forget how we ever got along
without it.

I know a lot of woodworkers who used pocket holes for years before Kreg
was around. One in particular, bought a couple Kreg jigs and found they
slowed him down, so he sold them to some newbie who couldn't live
without them. He does, however, use the step drill bits.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:28:48 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.

It's also possible to mount toggle clamps on t-bolts so they can slide in
t-tracks.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 6/13/11 11:29 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:28:48 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

I have mine on a scrap piece of melamine. I use two screws per clamp and
move it around wherever I want. This takes, possibly, twice as long as
sliding along the T-track, which the added advantage of being able to
use any straight scrap I have sitting around the shop.

It's also possible to mount toggle clamps on t-bolts so they can slide in
t-tracks.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1573

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:38:23 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:


I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.

But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
feature, if they won't slip off.

By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
a waney-edged board.

Jim


HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
Festool track saw works great for this.

BBBandsaw, not HHHandsaw. I like the bandsaw because if I have a waney
edge it is likely because it is a valuable board. And the bandsaw has
a very thin kerf. But I have to say if I had a track saw I might use
it in this application.

On 6/13/2011 7:51 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:38:23 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/12/2011 3:43 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:


I have used both types, and each has it's place. If the geometry of
the jig allows toggle clamps, they are usually much faster to work
with. Less so if have have to often adjust for material thickness.

But I think a jig for waney edge boards may benefit from the
adjustibility of the t-track hold-down. The rubber tips may be a good
feature, if they won't slip off.

By the way, I snap a chalkline and use my bandsaw for my first rip of
a waney-edged board.

Jim


HAND SAW! If I did that I would end up with a wavier line. ;~) The
Festool track saw works great for this.

BBBandsaw, not HHHandsaw.

OH! That's different. As Roseanna Anna Danna use'ta say.



I like the bandsaw because if I have a waney
edge it is likely because it is a valuable board. And the bandsaw has
a very thin kerf. But I have to say if I had a track saw I might use
it in this application.

I find that I could go straight from the track saw to glue up.