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Oak Molding
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?
What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Do I pre-drill the oak molding? (I do not have a nail-gun). |
Oak Molding
On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy. What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Metal, about "yea" long. Do I pre-drill the oak molding? Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them. Now the real answers: (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.) At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit. If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that. -- The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer |
Oak Molding
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy. What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Metal, about "yea" long. Do I pre-drill the oak molding? Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them. Now the real answers: (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.) At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit. If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that. ===================== Hold on one second! We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for? mike |
Oak Molding
"m II" wrote in message ...
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy. What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Metal, about "yea" long. Do I pre-drill the oak molding? Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them. Now the real answers: (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.) At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit. If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that. ===================== Hold on one second! We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for? mike ===================== Appears to be a simple arithmetic error. I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock puppets here. -- Eric |
Oak Molding
On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote:
"m II" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy. What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Metal, about "yea" long. Do I pre-drill the oak molding? Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them. Now the real answers: (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.) At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit. If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that. ===================== Hold on one second! We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for? mike ===================== Appears to be a simple arithmetic error. I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock puppets here. I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all painted trim. You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x? |
Oak Molding
On 6/12/11 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote: "m II" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote in message (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html ===================== Hold on one second! We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for? mike ===================== Appears to be a simple arithmetic error. I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock puppets here. I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all painted trim. You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x? This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants to know the best NON nail gun technique. No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!" -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Oak Molding
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Oak Molding
On 6/12/11 1:18 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? You don't; it won't stay put. You attach it to the framing *behind* the drywall. Obviously, it's proper technique to nail into studs and/or sole plate, but if you run across the situation, you can hold trim to drywall but cross nailing. One nail goes in at an angle aiming to the left and another adjacent nail goes in at an angle aiming to the right. I did this with relatively small amount of trim in an office that had double 5/8" drywall and steel studs. It held very tightly. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Oak Molding
"Leon" wrote in message
... On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote: "m II" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy. What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Metal, about "yea" long. Do I pre-drill the oak molding? Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them. Now the real answers: (I do not have a nail-gun). Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today) http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today, either. This is unusual.) At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit. If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for that. ===================== Hold on one second! We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for? mike ===================== Appears to be a simple arithmetic error. I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock puppets here. I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all painted trim. You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x? ======================= Painted trim? Yeah use a headed nail when possible. Brads, finishing nails, I have even used staples for door stop, depending who is doing the painting. Finished oak, use a pin nail available up to 2.5" (hmmmm...maybe 2.25") in 23 Ga.?? (would have to look at the boxes) Don't ask me how they even penetrate oak but they do. -- Eric |
Oak Molding
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Oak Molding
"Georgè Watson" wrote in message
b.com... -MIKE- wrote: No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!" When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george ====== How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old. Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group. mike |
Oak Molding
On Jun 13, 6:36*am, "m II" wrote:
"Georgè Watson" *wrote in message b.com... -MIKE- wrote: No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!" When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george ====== How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old. Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group. * mike The molding is not for a baseboard; it sits along the top edge of a granite backsplash. I located one stud so I measured over 16" to find the next stud. I discovered that the studs are NOT 16" O.C: The distances of the studs are 24", 13" and 21", etc so I did a lot of "test" holes to find the studs. Considering that nothing else in my condo is "standard" size, this didn't surprise me but it was very frustrating. |
Oak Molding
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Oak Molding
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants to know the best NON nail gun technique. That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig. |
Oak Molding
On 6/13/11 8:30 AM, willshak wrote:
wrote the following: How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall? What kind of nails should I use? How long should the nails be? Do I pre-drill the oak molding? (I do not have a nail-gun). When using finish nail in molding, I blunt the sharp end of the nail beforehand. This allows the nail to 'punch' a path in the wood rather than 'squeezing' into the wood and possibly splitting the wood. Great advice. That's also good practice when toe nailing when framing. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Oak Molding
On 6/13/11 11:25 AM, CW wrote:
wrote in message ... This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants to know the best NON nail gun technique. That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig. brilliant. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Oak Molding
"CW" wrote in message ... "-MIKE-" wrote in message ... This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants to know the best NON nail gun technique. That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig. ============== Yup we just did it again bringing it up with a troll post! Duh! -- Eric |
Oak Molding
On 6/13/11 1:52 PM, Josepi wrote:
I have never found that to work for me. It always just stops the nail penetrating at all and it bends over. Nails have sharp tips on them for a reason....drill if hard wood or dry wood. ---------------------- "willshak" wrote in message ... When using finish nail in molding, I blunt the sharp end of the nail beforehand. This allows the nail to 'punch' a path in the wood rather than 'squeezing' into the wood and possibly splitting the wood. I don't know what you're doing wrong (other than top posting), but I've blunted the ends of nails to keep the wood from splitting, I would guess, hundreds of times and it works great. It's a tried-and-true technique that probably goes all the way back to the invention of the modern nail. Cut nails were blunt and sheared the wood fiber when driven. That was probably an accidental benefit of the process of making them and not by design. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Oak Molding
On 6/13/2011 8:36 AM, m II wrote: "Georgè Watson" wrote in message b.com... -MIKE- wrote: No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!" When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george ====== How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old. Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group. mike plonk |
Oak Molding
It doesn't take long, here, to figure out that so many of these troll types
are the same person. The woodworkers do not care about posting formats, readers or rabble rousing against others. Most have just killfiltered the ones on your list and the group gets a lot more productive. They all say the same thing back and forth anyway, except for George Watson. He can't ever get a response so he constantly changes his nickname hoping for a pat on the back from somebody that isn't himself. -------------- "m II" wrote in message ... How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old. Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group. mike |
Oak Molding
Here's another sock puppet to add to your list. Every time you expose them
he spawns another new name. ------------------- "Jim in Milwaukee" wrote in message m... On 6/13/2011 8:36 AM, m II wrote: "Georgè Watson" wrote in message b.com... -MIKE- wrote: No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy *didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk. "Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!" When you got the same person commenting themselves these little newsgroup nuances are always going to rise... well, for the suckers, that is. george ====== How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock puppets - Lee Michaels - Leon - Lobby Dosser - George Watson - Robatoy - several Mikes used here - Larry Jaques - Doug and Bill and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and your BS is old. Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred** names you have used on that group. mike plonk |
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