How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

(I do not have a nail-gun).

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.


What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Metal, about "yea" long.


Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.

Now the real answers:

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today,
either. This is unusual.)

At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can
put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the
subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about
an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.

If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for
them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite
and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an
extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for
that.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.


What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Metal, about "yea" long.


Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.

Now the real answers:

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today,
either. This is unusual.)

At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can
put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the
subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about
an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.

If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for
them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite
and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an
extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for
that.

=====================

Hold on one second!

We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and
we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?

mike

"m II" wrote in message ...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.


What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Metal, about "yea" long.


Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.

Now the real answers:

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today,
either. This is unusual.)

At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can
put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the
subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about
an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.

If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for
them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite
and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an
extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for
that.

=====================

Hold on one second!

We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and
we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?

mike

=====================

Appears to be a simple arithmetic error.

I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a
headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak for
trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work before
would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are many sock
puppets here.

--

Eric

On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote:
"m II" wrote in message ...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.


What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Metal, about "yea" long.


Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.

Now the real answers:

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today,
either. This is unusual.)

At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can
put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the
subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about
an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.

If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for
them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite
and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an
extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for
that.

=====================

Hold on one second!

We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and
we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?

mike

=====================

Appears to be a simple arithmetic error.

I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a
headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak
for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work
before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are
many sock puppets here.

I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a
builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all
painted trim.

You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go
through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x?

On 6/12/11 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote:
"m II" wrote in message ...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


=====================

Hold on one second!

We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle
and
we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?

mike

=====================

Appears to be a simple arithmetic error.

I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a
headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak
for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work
before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are
many sock puppets here.

I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a
builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all painted
trim.

You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go
through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x?


This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a
nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume
that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious
from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants
to know the best NON nail gun technique.

No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , wrote:
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

You don't; it won't stay put. You attach it to the framing *behind* the
drywall.

What kind of nails should I use?

Finish nails. Size depends on the thickness of the quarter-round.

How long should the nails be?

Long enough to completely transfix the quarter-round and the drywall, and
penetrate about an inch into the framing. This will depend on the size of the
quarter-round and the thickness of the drywall.

Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Can't hurt, except possibly by wasting time. Test on a piece of scrap
quarter-round: does it split when you drive a nail through it, or not? If it
does, then pre-drill.

(I do not have a nail-gun).

This is the perfect excuse to buy one. Nail guns excel at attaching trim. Do
that once with a pneumatic nailer, and you'll never go back to doing it by
hand. No worries about hammer dings in the trim, no worries about the nail set
slipping off and holing the trim, just point and squeeze. Takes about 1/10 the
time. Do it. You'll be glad you did.

On 6/12/11 1:18 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

You don't; it won't stay put. You attach it to the framing *behind* the
drywall.


Obviously, it's proper technique to nail into studs and/or sole plate,
but if you run across the situation, you can hold trim to drywall but
cross nailing. One nail goes in at an angle aiming to the left and
another adjacent nail goes in at an angle aiming to the right.

I did this with relatively small amount of trim in an office that had
double 5/8" drywall and steel studs. It held very tightly.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 6/12/2011 8:34 AM, Eric wrote:
"m II" wrote in message ...

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:14:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

Vewwy, vewwy cawefuwwy.


What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Metal, about "yea" long.


Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

Not unless you're overstocked with PREs. Just drill them.

Now the real answers:

(I do not have a nail-gun).

Get one for $30 at HF. (usually $20 or less on sale, but not today)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ler-97524.html


Use 1-9/16" brads. http://goo.gl/YGnxU (darn, not on sale today,
either. This is unusual.)

At the base of the wall, there is a 2x4 behind the drywall, so you can
put nails in anywhere up to about an inch and a half over the
subfloor. If you've installed a floating floor, you still have about
an inch. Angle nailing works, too, so aim down a bit.

If you use hammer and nails, go with 1-1/2" finish nails. Drill for
them or they will split the oak. The last box I bought was by GripRite
and they're the flimsiest crap I've ever put a hammer to. Spend an
extra buck and get good nails. Ask the hardware store manager for
that.

=====================

Hold on one second!

We got prob. 3/4" trim, 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2"nails and a downward angle and
we are worried about studs behind the wall? What for?

mike

=====================

Appears to be a simple arithmetic error.

I would use 2-1/2 inch nails and never a cheap nailer on oak. Only use a
headless pin nailer for that, unless you prefer the look of patched oak
for trim. But then a person that had actually done some of this work
before would know that. Seems to becoming painfully apparent there are
many sock puppets here.

I have done my share of base board and shoe moldings, did this for a
builder 10 or years ago. I used a finish nail gun but it was all
painted trim.

You mention a pin nailer for oak, is there a pin nail long enough to go
through the shoe molding, sheet rock and then the 2x?

=======================

Painted trim? Yeah use a headed nail when possible. Brads, finishing nails,
I have even used staples for door stop, depending who is doing the painting.

Finished oak, use a pin nail available up to 2.5" (hmmmm...maybe 2.25") in
23 Ga.?? (would have to look at the boxes)
Don't ask me how they even penetrate oak but they do.

--

Eric

wrote the following:
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

(I do not have a nail-gun).

When using finish nail in molding, I blunt the sharp end of the nail
beforehand. This allows the nail to 'punch' a path in the wood rather
than 'squeezing' into the wood and possibly splitting the wood.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"Georgè Watson" wrote in message
b.com...

-MIKE- wrote:

No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"

When you got the same person commenting
themselves these little newsgroup nuances
are always going to rise... well, for the
suckers, that is.
george

======

How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and
participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock
puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern
theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred**
names you have used on that group.


mike

On Jun 13, 6:36*am, "m II" wrote:
"Georgè Watson" *wrote in message

b.com...

-MIKE- wrote:

No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"

When you got the same person commenting
themselves these little newsgroup nuances
are always going to rise... well, for the
suckers, that is.
george

======

How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and
participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock
puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern
theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred**
names you have used on that group.

* mike

The molding is not for a baseboard; it sits along the top edge of a
granite backsplash.

I located one stud so I measured over 16" to find the next stud. I
discovered that the studs are NOT 16" O.C: The distances of the studs
are 24", 13" and 21", etc so I did a lot of "test" holes to find the
studs.

Considering that nothing else in my condo is "standard" size, this
didn't surprise me but it was very frustrating.

wrote the following:
On Jun 13, 6:36 am, "m II" wrote:

"Georgè Watson" wrote in message

b.com...

-MIKE- wrote:


No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"

When you got the same person commenting
themselves these little newsgroup nuances
are always going to rise... well, for the
suckers, that is.
george

======

How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and
participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock
puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern
theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred**
names you have used on that group.

mike


The molding is not for a baseboard; it sits along the top edge of a
granite backsplash.

I located one stud so I measured over 16" to find the next stud. I
discovered that the studs are NOT 16" O.C: The distances of the studs
are 24", 13" and 21", etc so I did a lot of "test" holes to find the
studs.

Considering that nothing else in my condo is "standard" size, this
didn't surprise me but it was very frustrating.


That helps a lot. I would glue or silicone it in place.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...

This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a
nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume
that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious
from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants
to know the best NON nail gun technique.

That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the
advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig.

On 6/13/11 8:30 AM, willshak wrote:
wrote the following:
How can I attach 25 feet of quarter-round oak molding to drywall?

What kind of nails should I use?
How long should the nails be?

Do I pre-drill the oak molding?

(I do not have a nail-gun).
When using finish nail in molding, I blunt the sharp end of the nail
beforehand. This allows the nail to 'punch' a path in the wood rather
than 'squeezing' into the wood and possibly splitting the wood.


Great advice. That's also good practice when toe nailing when framing.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/13/11 10:23 AM, wrote:

The molding is not for a baseboard; it sits along the top edge of a
granite backsplash.


If the piece of trim is nice ans straight, it may be easier to just glue
it in pace. Since that is a "wet area," you could use caulk or any other
silicone adhesive.
There's new new genre of adhesives that are supposed to have very high
initial tack and hold tight when material is pressed against it. If you
try one of these products, you may get away with no nails at all, or
maybe only a couple.


I located one stud so I measured over 16" to find the next stud. I
discovered that the studs are NOT 16" O.C: The distances of the studs
are 24", 13" and 21", etc so I did a lot of "test" holes to find the
studs.


This is not uncommon if there is a window involved. Studs go 16" or 24"
apart, until there is a doorway or window, then you have jack studs and
kind studs shortening up that distance. Not all stud finders are the
same. Find one that has a "deep scan" option and you'll get better results.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/13/11 11:25 AM, CW wrote:
wrote in message
...

This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a
nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume
that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious
from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants
to know the best NON nail gun technique.

That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the
advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig.


brilliant.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"CW" wrote in message
...


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
This is what I love about this group. The guys says, "I do not have a
nail-gun," and no one can take that at face value. Nobody can assume
that the guy obviously knows about nail guns, which is blatantly obvious
from his statement, but for whatever reason, isn't using one and wants
to know the best NON nail gun technique.



That's the way it works around here. Want a good discussion about the
advantages of hand cut dovetails? Just ask how to set up a dovetail jig.


==============

Yup we just did it again bringing it up with a troll post!

Duh!

--

Eric

On 6/13/11 1:52 PM, Josepi wrote:
I have never found that to work for me. It always just stops the nail
penetrating at all and it bends over.

Nails have sharp tips on them for a reason....drill if hard wood or dry
wood.

----------------------
"willshak" wrote in message
news When using finish nail in molding, I blunt the sharp end of the nail
beforehand. This allows the nail to 'punch' a path in the wood rather
than 'squeezing' into the wood and possibly splitting the wood.


I don't know what you're doing wrong (other than top posting), but I've
blunted the ends of nails to keep the wood from splitting, I would
guess, hundreds of times and it works great. It's a tried-and-true
technique that probably goes all the way back to the invention of the
modern nail. Cut nails were blunt and sheared the wood fiber when
driven. That was probably an accidental benefit of the process of making
them and not by design.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/13/2011 8:36 AM, m II wrote:
"Georgè Watson" wrote in message
b.com...

-MIKE- wrote:

No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"

When you got the same person commenting
themselves these little newsgroup nuances
are always going to rise... well, for the
suckers, that is.
george

======

How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing
about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your
trolling sock puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery
pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four
hundred** names you have used on that group.


mike

plonk

It doesn't take long, here, to figure out that so many of these troll types
are the same person.

The woodworkers do not care about posting formats, readers or rabble rousing
against others.

Most have just killfiltered the ones on your list and the group gets a lot
more productive. They all say the same thing back and forth anyway, except
for George Watson. He can't ever get a response so he constantly changes his
nickname hoping for a pat on the back from somebody that isn't himself.

--------------

"m II" wrote in message ...
How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing about)and
participating or being a good troll and taking all your trolling sock
puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery pattern
theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four hundred**
names you have used on that group.


mike

Here's another sock puppet to add to your list. Every time you expose them
he spawns another new name.

-------------------

"Jim in Milwaukee" wrote in message
m...



On 6/13/2011 8:36 AM, m II wrote:
"Georgè Watson" wrote in message
b.com...

-MIKE- wrote:

No, everyone has to get in a ****ing match over exactly what the guy
*didn't* ask about just to hear themselves talk.
"Look at me, I'm talking... over here people, it's me!"

When you got the same person commenting
themselves these little newsgroup nuances
are always going to rise... well, for the
suckers, that is.
george

======

How about sticking to woodworking topics (that you know nothing
about)and participating or being a good troll and taking all your
trolling sock puppets
- Lee Michaels
- Leon
- Lobby Dosser
- George Watson
- Robatoy
- several Mikes used here
- Larry Jaques
- Doug and Bill
and go away and leave woodworking people alone? You have been busted and
your BS is old.

Now **** off, be a nice little idiot and go back to your embroidery
pattern theft as digiKit, kit, hopper, Tazoar, Pixie and the **over four
hundred** names you have used on that group.


mike

plonk