Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

Puckdropper

On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.

Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.

(Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
for the reminder! )

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when
I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.

Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.

(Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks for
the reminder! )

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)


Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
You can still feel the wood underneath.

I tried Behlen's Rockhard Table Top Finish on the dining set I
recycled and it left a nice, hard, shiny, but PLASTIC finish.
Tiny scratches show up from repairing tools on it, too. sigh

Newp, no mo. I'll stick with Waterlox, my fave finish.

--
Make up your mind to act decidedly and take the consequences.
No good is ever done in this world by hesitation.
-- Thomas H. Huxley

In article m,
Puckdropper says...

Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

Yep.

On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:


Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
for the reminder! )

And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
using any abrasive on shellac.

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

I have been using a 0000 buffed finish on most of my
turned bowls for quite sometime. Something I have
found that really bring out the "c_________"(somebody
spell the word for me) that really deep luster that
makes you feel as if you are being drawn into the wood
is a product called "Wood Cream." I have no idea where
I got my jar, but it can be googled and ordered from
the manufactorer in Washington State. It is entirely
food safe and gives such a rich deep finish that I
almost never open the can of Briwax that is sittiing
under it.

Before any of you shouts - no I do not live under a
bridge. ;-)

Deb


wrote:

Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful
low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a
couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely
different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how
nicely it turns out.

Puckdropper

On 4/26/2011 12:00 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using a 0000 buffed finish on most of my
turned bowls for quite sometime. Something I have
found that really bring out the "c_________"(somebody
spell the word for me) that really deep luster that
makes you feel as if you are being drawn into the wood
is a product called "Wood Cream." I have no idea where
I got my jar, but it can be googled and ordered from
the manufactorer in Washington State. It is entirely
food safe and gives such a rich deep finish that I
almost never open the can of Briwax that is sittiing
under it.

"chatoyance" ... in French (at least in S Louisiana) it sorta equates to
the look in a cats eye.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
"chatoyance" ... in French (at least in S Louisiana) it sorta equates to
the look in a cats eye.

Is that why I'm unable to maintain my cat's food limit when she sits there
and looks at me until I give her more?

On Apr 26, 11:48*am, Swingman wrote:
On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:

Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)

The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.
I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a Bösendorfer
grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond—not what it is,
but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.

On 4/26/2011 12:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 26, 11:48 am, wrote:
On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:

Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)

Or "just right" ... like Edie Brickell in 1994 at 2:28

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqL1BLzn3qc

The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.
I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a Bösendorfer
grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond—not what it is,
but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.

Good description of color blindness, not what is is but what it isn't
.... like the space between the notes in good music.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant
for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.

Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.



I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery bag
handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.

I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery
bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?

My brown paper bag green effort has a slightly different use. When I buy
alcohol at the liquor store, they put the bottle in a brown paper bag,
(plastic bag elimination effort going on). Once home, I save the brown paper
bags and then use them for cooking. With a section of brown paper bag
lightly covered with non stick cooking spray, I cover a roast chicken for
the first 3/4 of the cooking cycle. It prevents overcooking and keeps the
chicken juicier. (Traditional Mom cooking tip)

In article , says...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
for the reminder! )

And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
using any abrasive on shellac.

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
it form little balls with steel wool.

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:44:51 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 4/26/2011 12:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 26, 11:48 am, wrote:
On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:

Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.

Too close to FAT! I prefer petite women, so fat ain't happenin'.
Built-like-a-brick-****house is OK. (Sports figure, like Sharapova,
but she's too tall.)


I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)

Or "just right" ... like Edie Brickell in 1994 at 2:28

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqL1BLzn3qc

Yeah, not bad at all.

Her best song of all time (and a good video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDl3b...eature=related

"Philosophy, is the talk on a cereal box."
"Religion, is a smile on a dog."

--
Make up your mind to act decidedly and take the consequences.
No good is ever done in this world by hesitation.
-- Thomas H. Huxley

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up
on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
it form little balls with steel wool.

Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.

For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind
up on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never
had it form little balls with steel wool.

Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.

Steel wool is also a metal, which would act as heat sink and keep
things cool.

For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.


I just never got good results with sandpaper. It always seemed like
it'd take more finish off than I wanted. (I didn't have any higher than
220 grit, though.)

Puckdropper

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:



"Swingman" wrote in message
...


To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a
lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.

Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.



I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a
grocery bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN
is that?


The whole process can be very green :-] :
Reduce: Print plans to scale
Reuse: Use plans to polish project
Recycle: Print new plans on the other side (this only works if the plans
don't tear and you use only one side.)

I'll have to give the paper/bag trick a try.

Puckdropper

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
that is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days
ago when I came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
warm and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it
turns out.

Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
You can still feel the wood underneath.

It does produce a different finish. A little higher sheen, but just as
smooth. I haven't decided if I like it better, it might be one of those
things where either way works well.

I also tried applying the wax after rubbing with the steel wool. You can
still feel the wax on the wood.

*snip*

Puckdropper

On Apr 26, 7:20*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. *I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. *The wood feels completely different; it's warm *
and extremely smoooth. *I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

Puckdropper

If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

On Apr 26, 1:34*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 26, 11:48*am, Swingman wrote:





On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:

Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood
done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like
finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful.
I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)

The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic.

Or feel like plastic. Not the case with shellac, which can
be rubbed out or French polished to a cold, glasslike sheen,
in both appearance and feel.

I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a Bösendorfer
grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy
but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer
reflection. I couldn't figure it out.
Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a
miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the
ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an
expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond—not what it is,
but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Father Haskell wrote in
:


If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.


Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
in.local...
In article , says...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine
taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks
for the reminder! )

And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before
using any abrasive on shellac.

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on
your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had
it form little balls with steel wool.


A midget has got little balls

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go
vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind
up on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.

Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never
had it form little balls with steel wool.

Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air
between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit
paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.

Steel wool is also a metal, which would act as heat sink and keep
things cool.

For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.


I just never got good results with sandpaper. It always seemed like
it'd take more finish off than I wanted. (I didn't have any higher than
220 grit, though.)

Puckdropper

I use a very fine wet and dry paper of anything up to 4000 for the final
finish, then some brown kraft paper with linseed of coarse.
I like the gloss finish it gives.
I have tried steel wool and I think 000 is the finest I have been able to
get

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac
finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.

I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery
bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?

My brown paper bag green effort has a slightly different use. When I buy
alcohol at the liquor store, they put the bottle in a brown paper bag,
(plastic bag elimination effort going on). Once home, I save the brown
paper bags and then use them for cooking. With a section of brown paper
bag lightly covered with non stick cooking spray, I cover a roast chicken
for the first 3/4 of the cooking cycle. It prevents overcooking and keeps
the chicken juicier. (Traditional Mom cooking tip)


But, do you recycle your grog bottles ?

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
b.com:

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 26 Apr 2011 11:20:46 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish
that is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days
ago when I came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's
warm and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it
turns out.

Yeah, and try waxing your Johnson. Oops, I meant to say "Try applying
Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool." It produces a wood with a
wunnerful "hand". That's why I prefer the hand-rubbed oil finishes.
You can still feel the wood underneath.

It does produce a different finish. A little higher sheen, but just
as smooth. I haven't decided if I like it better, it might be one of
those things where either way works well.

I also tried applying the wax after rubbing with the steel wool. You
can still feel the wax on the wood.

*snip*

Puckdropper

I applied multiple thin layers of Johnson paste wax using 0000 steel
wool, and then a car polisher to polish the dried wax (1 hour). The
finish is glass smooth and low satiny shine. On my pine blanket chest
it has lasted decades ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Swingman wrote:
On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:


Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit
of wood done with shellac.
I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a
glass like finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed.
Glass like in look and touch..
Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or
Rubenesque.

Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a
pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine
too.

I prefer them off the aforementioned subject... or at least partially off...

--

-Mike-

On 4/26/2011 7:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that
is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I
came across some steel wool that had been left out.

The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm
and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.

Yes, particularly on hardwoods. I spray it on, let it dry a bit, spray
it again. On the lathe, I just wipe it on with a rag. Can't say I like
it much on Pine or softwoods so much. 0000 is the way to go.

I sometimes use it to seal pool cue shafts and apply it with a rag. Let
it dry for 15-20 minutes (it drys almost immediately on a spinning
lathe) and then sand it "all" off with 600 grit and or a magic eraser.
You can't really get it all off, so what is left is a nicely sealed
smooth shaft.
--
Jack
You're never too old to learn something stupid.
http://jbstein.com

On Apr 27, 12:35*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Father Haskell wrote :



If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. *You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? *My primary concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

That was my first question about the product. None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.

In article 371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...

On Apr 27, 12:35*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Father Haskell wrote :



If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. *You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? *My primary concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

That was my first question about the product. None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.

If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
problem.

On Apr 27, 6:44*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article 371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...







On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Father Haskell wrote :

If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

That was my first question about the product. *None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.

If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
different numbers are for different sizes). *The Meguiars and 3M are
body-shop products and would be silicone-free. *The Meguiars works fine
for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
it.

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
...

On Apr 27, 6:44 pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article 371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...







On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Father Haskell wrote
:

If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary
concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

That was my first question about the product. None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.

If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
it.

Meguiar's is a bit too upscale for WalMart.

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
...

On Apr 27, 6:44 pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article 371216ef-f67e-4168-be03-f2d6c3e0d974
@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...







On Apr 27, 12:35 am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Father Haskell wrote
:

If you like gloss, Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is
the icing on the cake. You'll know when the surface is like
glass when the buffing rag makes squeaking noises like
a rag on a freshly Windexed window.

Is there any silicone to worry about with that product? My primary
concern
would be cross contamination from getting some on a bench or table.

Puckdropper

That was my first question about the product. None
that I can see, according to the MSDS.

If you want to be sure, then use the equivalent product from Meguiars or
3M (I think it would be Meguiars Swirl Remover M0916 or M0901 or 3M
Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 06069, 06068, or 39062--the
different numbers are for different sizes). The Meguiars and 3M are
body-shop products and would be silicone-free. The Meguiars works fine
for me with lacquer and polyurethanes and has never given any kind of
problem.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm biased toward Meguiar's, based on others'
recommendations, shame Walmart didn't carry
it.

Meguiar's is a bit too upscale for WalMart.

Meguiars and 3M see themselves as making products for the professional
market. Only one store in this area (that I've been able to find and
that Meguiars is aware of) has a major portion of their product line,
and 3M you find only at automotive paint suppliers.