I am designing a table lamp that is built as a four sided column or
box but I want it to taper from bottom to top. I'm sure I can do some
3D CAD and figure out the miter but wasn't there a table or formula
somewhere that provides the miter angle.

I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
I am designing a table lamp that is built as a four sided column or
box but I want it to taper from bottom to top. I'm sure I can do some
3D CAD and figure out the miter but wasn't there a table or formula
somewhere that provides the miter angle.

I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

Here's one. http://jansson.us/jcompound.html
There are many on the web, just google
"compound miter"
Art

The miter will remain 45°. You can do your taper cut on the table saw
with the blade at 45° OR do your taper cuts, then use a chamfer bit on
your router for the miters along the lengths.

Sonny

"SonomaProducts.com" writes:
I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

44.8 degrees for a 5 degree taper, 44.1 for a 10 degree.

http://www.delorie.com/wood/compound-cuts.html

In article , "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I am designing a table lamp that is built as a four sided column or
box but I want it to taper from bottom to top. I'm sure I can do some
3D CAD and figure out the miter but wasn't there a table or formula
somewhere that provides the miter angle.

Perhaps I'm missing something here... but why could you not build it as a
*straight* column (eliminating any issues with compound miters), then taper it
after it's built?

I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

Here's one. *http://jansson.us/jcompound.html
There are many on the web, just google
"compound miter"
Art

Perfetto!!!

Thx

On Jan 10, 2:03*pm, Sonny wrote:
The miter will remain 45°. *

You might think so but it isn't true.

Perhaps I'm missing something here... but why could you not build it as a
*straight* column (eliminating any issues with compound miters), then taper it
after it's built?

I suppose you could but 5 degrees x 13" tall = 1.1374" offset so I
would have to start with some pretty thick wood.

There are other times when you might want to show the rays from qtr sawn
oak, and you might do the miter for that purpose.

So there are reasons. Not sure thick wood is a good one. I just glue up
what I need to the desired thickness if I don't have wood that size.
Gluing up has been done for a long time.

On 1/10/2011 6:22 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:
I am designing a table lamp that is built as a four sided column or
box but I want it to taper from bottom to top. I'm sure I can do some
3D CAD and figure out the miter but wasn't there a table or formula
somewhere that provides the miter angle.

Perhaps I'm missing something here... but why could you not build it as a
*straight* column (eliminating any issues with compound miters), then taper it
after it's built?

I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

On Jan 10, 4:44*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I am designing a table lamp that is built as a four sided column or
box but I want it to taper from bottom to top. I'm sure I can do some
3D CAD and figure out the miter but wasn't there a table or formula
somewhere that provides the miter angle.

I know it will change very little. I am doing a 4 sided box that will
taper at maybe 5 or 10 degrees. I think the 45 miter cut will actually
change by a degeree or less but I would like to get it precise for a
clean fit up.

Yup, center lines of the tails and pins should be level if you
want them to look right. Build a quick full scale model and
pencil the joints on, then copy when all looks right. Cardboard
and paper packing tape are your friends.

Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

Pat Barber wrote:
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.



LeeValley has the answer. This is one way to do it-

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56&cat=1,43513

I have it and it works well.

On Wed, 12 Jan 2011 11:26:49 -0500, Gil wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

LeeValley has the answer. This is one way to do it-

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56&cat=1,43513

I have it and it works well.

I got this one, the protractor, and it works well. I used to
physically match angles, then tried a regular t-bevel, but this is
even easier and much more precise. I can transfer numbers to the miter
saw from it, not just physical angles. (and it's only 1/2 the cost of
the tiltmeter.) I ordered it during one of the free shipping sales.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43513,64278

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

The other guys have the correct answer but I don't typically get that
precise. I am more interested if it is a few degrees off. I always do
test cuts on this type of stuff so if I see 44.333 degrees, I know I
need to start cheating towards 44 to get a sweet fit up.

On 1/12/11 10:26 AM, Gil wrote:
Pat Barber wrote:
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.



LeeValley has the answer. This is one way to do it-

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56&cat=1,43513

I have it and it works well.


Look for this and get it at 1/2 the price.

http://www.igaging.com/page99.html


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Pat Barber wrote:
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

15 1/2 degrees should be close enough.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In ,
Larry Jaques spewed forth:
On Wed, 12 Jan 2011 11:26:49 -0500, Gil wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

LeeValley has the answer. This is one way to do it-

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56&cat=1,43513

I have it and it works well.

I got this one, the protractor, and it works well. I used to
physically match angles, then tried a regular t-bevel, but this is
even easier and much more precise. I can transfer numbers to the miter
saw from it, not just physical angles. (and it's only 1/2 the cost of
the tiltmeter.) I ordered it during one of the free shipping sales.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43513,64278

I like that!
I'll be putting that on my LV list
Thanks

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Just a curious question, but how does one set a
blade angle of something like 15.6 or some of the
other very precise angles required in these calculations.

I have some very accurate setting tools but none would
allow a blade angle that fine.

Having never built anything with a compound angle, I'm
really curious.

$30 Electronic Tilt Box. Works in 1/10's of a degree.

Or if you have an accurate miter gauge you cut a scrap triangle to that
angle and use it to adjust the tilt on your blade.

On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 07:18:17 -0600, Leon wrote:

$30 Electronic Tilt Box. Works in 1/10's of a degree.

There's also a protractor that uses the same principle:

http://www.wixey.com/digitalprotractor/index.html

For setting your miter gauge.

I've got both and they're great. But be warned that the protractor,
regardless of what the ads say, cannot be locked down. It can be
tightened to where it won't flop around, but in appreciable pressure will
move it. I checked with the company and they confirmed that, but their
ads still say otherwise.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

*I checked with the company and they confirmed that, but their
ads still say otherwise.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Sometimes it boggles the mind how engineering can come so close to a
perfect solution and yet not address some basic yet fundemental flaw.