I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?

For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
hatch, about 6-8 square feet.

Steve

Seriously consider one of the man mades like Azek.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior
console and bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but
with marine plywood tops. I want to replace some of the plywood,
and build a little wood tops and railings and dashboard here and
there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs
reasonable, and looks good? Or should I just go with a good
marine grade 3/4" plywood, and gusset everything, stain and seal
heavily?

For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood,
about 12 to 18 square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square
feet. Front pedestal and hatch, about 6-8 square feet.

Steve

In article ,
says...

I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?

For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
hatch, about 6-8 square feet.

Fishing boat, normally lives on a trailer in the driveway? Use whatever
you'd use for any other kind of outdoor furniture.

In article ,
says...

I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console
and bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine
plywood tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little
wood tops and railings and dashboard here and there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable,
and looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4"
plywood, and gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?

For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12
to 18 square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front
pedestal and hatch, about 6-8 square feet.

Talk to Boulter Plywood. They specialize in marine lumber & plywood:

http://www.boulterplywood.com/

Doug White

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?

You might ask in rec_dot_boats_dot_building.

They're a knowledgable bunch,

-Zz

You might ask in rec_dot_boats_dot_building.

They're a knowledgable bunch,

-Zz

Sorry, I just checked, that group looks inactive and long-gone.

Another good NG goes away......

-Zz

IPE or other tropical hardwood. I have a piece of tigerwood on my deck for
the last year and a half and it doesn't show any aging. The hardwood
flooring finish has UV worn off with the snow and rain but the wood is not
wetter or softer. It's absorbancy rate is next to zero.



"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? Or should I just go with a good marine grade 3/4" plywood, and
gusset everything, stain and seal heavily?

For the bench seats, I will probably be using marine plywood, about 12 to 18
square foot. Instrument board, about 2-3 square feet. Front pedestal and
hatch, about 6-8 square feet.

Steve

In article ,
"Steve B" wrote:

I have a Lund boat, which is just an aluminum boat with interior console and
bench seats, pedestal driver seat, all aluminum, but with marine plywood
tops. I want to replace some of the plywood, and build a little wood tops
and railings and dashboard here and there.

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good?

Teak is usual but does not "cost reasonable." Mahogany used for some
things, costs a bit less, not near as durable. White ash is used on
canoe and guideboat gunwales - I would put a good coat of finish on it.
May be as exotic as teak out your way - or moreso? Ipe (look for deck
boards) might be the ticket?

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good? *

For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
best.

Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).

Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
Sand off and reapply every other year.

Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
the wood to float up.

Just some info.


Mahogany does.

On 1/9/2011 11:15 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good?

For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
best.

Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).

Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
Sand off and reapply every other year.

In article , tiredofspam
says...

Teak does not float.

It doesn't? Since when? Green teak doesn't float, once it's dried it's
no denser than many other common woods.

It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
the wood to float up.

Just some info.

I'd like to see a source for that. Many classes of warship in WWII had
teak decks.

Mahogany does.

On 1/9/2011 11:15 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Can anyone refer me to a wood that is good for marine, costs reasonable, and
looks good?

For solid lumber traditional is Teak and for good reason. It's the
best.

Mohogany as others mentioned and also white oak (not red oak).

Build any of the structures from marine plywood. Trim with solid wood
of choice. Build rails out of solid wood. Many coats of spar varnish.
Sand off and reapply every other year.

On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
the wood to float up.

Just some info.


Mahogany does.

Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.

I had been told this on a tour of a WWII submarine in Hackensack NJ. The
tour guide specifically brought up the topic of why teak was used on the
decks of subs.

I took the info for face value. I do believe it to be true, and judging
by the amount of silica in some teak feel that it probably is.

On 1/11/2011 12:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to prevent
giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges. They didn't want
the wood to float up.

Just some info.


Mahogany does.

Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.

Maybe some interest....
http://www.outbackpatio.com/infoteak...furniture.html see where it
says teak doesn't float and has to be hauled by elephant because it
can't be floated.

Now other sites say it can be floated based on specific gravity.
I'll let you decide.


On 1/11/2011 12:58 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
I had been told this on a tour of a WWII submarine in Hackensack NJ.
The tour guide specifically brought up the topic of why teak was used
on the decks of subs.

I took the info for face value. I do believe it to be true, and
judging by the amount of silica in some teak feel that it probably
is.

On 1/11/2011 12:35 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 01/10/2011 08:23 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Teak does not float. It was used on WWII submarine decks to
prevent giving away the subs location if hit by depth charges.
They didn't want the wood to float up.

Just some info.


Mahogany does.

Check the specific gravity of teak. It runs between .5 and .65,
depending on where it's grown - in other words, it floats.