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Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote: Trying to add additional circuits to the lighting systems is at best, a bad wet dream. Bad wet dream? Is that possible? THAT got your attention? What about: You're like an octopus with a bag pipe. As soon as you figure out what it is, you'll **** it. Lew's correct in the sense that as soon as I figure out How and What I have to do, I'll do IT (I don't see anything wrong with that). You have to appreciate the colorful imagery, and I doubt he copied it out of that book, "$hit My Dad Says"! :) They should pay Lew to replace William Shatner. I printed the post! Bill |
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Lew Hodgett wrote:
I usually charge a fee for my designs. I certainly lost money on this job. Lew I think you could make more money replacing William Shatner (I like the army drill sergeant who throws the tissue box in the commercial better than William Shatner). Bill |
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On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 02:07:55 -0500, Bill wrote:
I think you could make more money replacing William Shatner (I like the army drill sergeant who throws the tissue box in the commercial better than William Shatner). Boy if you ever meet him do remember, He is a MARINE (ret). Otherwise he might throw more than a tissue box at you. Mark |
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In case anyone is curious, I posted a design I came up with tonight by combining lighting configurations which have been proposed. There are 5 lights on L1 and 6 lights on L2. I'd be curious if anyone might prefer just the 6 lights on the 1st and 3rd row on one circuit (or extending it to 9 by having 3 uniform rows, one on top,and middle as shown, and another row of 3 on the bottom)? Recall that the space is 20' by 24'. There will not be much action on the 3rd wall however--probably just storage. All of the power outlets are on the other two walls. http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ I actually went to the store today and located most of the materials I'll need boxes, appropriate connectors, EMT (thin wall), conduit bender (probably). Bill |
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Bill wrote:
In case anyone is curious, I posted a design I came up with tonight by combining lighting configurations which have been proposed. .... http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ I actually went to the store today and located most of the materials I'll need boxes, appropriate connectors, EMT (thin wall), conduit bender (probably). Bill Yep, I need build some scaffolding and do my own light density experiment. No one else can tell me whether I like Coke or Pepsi better (but it's definitely the later)! My procedure is slow, but not likely to lead to disappointment. I'm sure a contractor would have none of it! :) If the truth be told, I'll have fun doing it. I'll use screws instead of nails, so the cost of the experiment will be practically nothing. Regarding a procedure which is even slower, I've got this set of curtains and hardware ("a double rod", with drawstrings, hooks, etc), which came with directions which were written in about 4 sentences by someone who couldn't actually write English directly. They need not have bothered. It's on me, since my wife will have none of it! :) By comparison with the lighting project, I find it sort of painful. Plenty of snow falling in central In today, more to the north. I have the shovel ready. Cheers! Bill |
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On 12/12/2010 3:19 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: ...Plenty of snow falling in central In today, more to the north. I have the shovel ready. Cheers! Bill Snow and wind in Southwest Indiana today. The snow shovel is in the garage, I am in the house carving and painting Christmas ornaments. Neil |
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On Sun, 12 Dec 2010 17:12:45 -0500, Rita and Neil Ward
wrote: On 12/12/2010 3:19 PM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ...Plenty of snow falling in central In today, more to the north. I have the shovel ready. Cheers! Bill Snow and wind in Southwest Indiana today. The snow shovel is in the garage, I am in the house carving and painting Christmas ornaments. Snow (flurries) and wind in Auburn Alabama today, too. My snow shovel is hanging in the garage too. It sometimes gets used to sweep up sawdust. ;-) |
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On Sun, 12 Dec 2010 19:39:58 -0600, "
wrote: On Sun, 12 Dec 2010 17:12:45 -0500, Rita and Neil Ward wrote: On 12/12/2010 3:19 PM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ...Plenty of snow falling in central In today, more to the north. I have the shovel ready. Cheers! Bill Snow and wind in Southwest Indiana today. The snow shovel is in the garage, I am in the house carving and painting Christmas ornaments. Snow (flurries) and wind in Auburn Alabama today, too. My snow shovel is hanging in the garage too. It sometimes gets used to sweep up sawdust. ;-) Wind, Snain, Snow and other assorted cold crap in Waterloo Ontario. The snow shovel was put aside in favor of the snowblower because the soggy crap was too heavy to shovel - then the snowblower kept plugging up because the heavy crap was too stiff to blow. A couple hours later, after it cooled down a bit and snowed a few inches of REAL snow, the blower ran for just over an hour getting the crap off the sidewalks and driveways before the temperature dropped far enough to freeze it solid. If that was allowed to happen, nothing short of an AXE would move it!!! After an hour I was soaked through to the skin and looked like a snow-man because the wind kept blowing the crap back on me. Only about 6 inches accumulation. About 18" 14km to the northwest, and over 4 feet on the ground another 50Km west. |
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Lew Hodgett wrote:
Subject It is absolutely amazing all the B/S to relight a 2 car garage, quasi whore house (stippled ceiling), maybe workshop. Close to 100 posts, most totally crap. IES recommendations for a machine shop/wood shop call for 100 foot candles maintained. Using 2 lamp fixtures, approximately 19 fixtures are required for 100 FC maintained. Given the geometry of the room and fixtures, 19 fixtures would be difficult to maccomplish. 16 fixtures gives a good fit and still provides 71-72 FC maintained. Run 1 x 4 x 24 ft furring strips equally spaced on 5 ft centers, Sign posted at a whore house: "Furring strips--Extra!". --anon. At 24' each, they may cost me a few bucks too. I have to add them to the material list. Getting them attached to the stippled ceiling without breaking it ought to be a careful procedure too. I read about using 8-penny nails, but I like my chances better using screws. Should probably leave 1/8"-1/4" between boards to allow for expansion, no? That maybe not look so cool if they are staggered between ceiling joists (as advised). Still having fun. I plan to attach string between nails, scrape stipple, nail up the boards, and then wonder whether I should have dimensioned the 1by4's! The ceiling is, however, rather more suspect in that category... Bill nailing or screwing thru drywall into ceiling joists. (4 runs) Prime and paint when finished to match whore house ceiling. (Since these furring strips are 30" from the side wall, they will miss the overhead garage door tracks by at least 12" on each side.) Mount 4 fixtures directly to furring strips with screws on 5 ft centers leaving 2-1/2 space at beginning and end of runs and 12" between for the 3/4" EMT. Install 1 ft lengths of 3/4 EMT (Thin Wall Conduit) between fixtures. Pull 12-3 /W/ ground THHN (Blk, Red, White, Green) for each run (L1, L2, N, G). Stagger fixture wiring as follows: Row 1: L1, L2, L1, L2 Row 2: L2, L1, L2, L1 Row 3: L1, L2, L1, L2 Row 4: L2, L1, L2, L1 The above uses two (2), 1P-20A c'bkrs and provides two levels of lighting, 50%& 100%. At this point, two (2) wall switches can be added so the c'bkrs do not have to be cycled. Don't sweat covering fixtures with the garage door. At most, two (2) fixtures get covered, but you still get some diffused light from them. Enough bull **** already. Spend a few bucks, you can't take it with you. Time for the next job. Lew |
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On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 19:48:27 -0500, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote: Subject It is absolutely amazing all the B/S to relight a 2 car garage, quasi whore house (stippled ceiling), maybe workshop. Close to 100 posts, most totally crap. IES recommendations for a machine shop/wood shop call for 100 foot candles maintained. Using 2 lamp fixtures, approximately 19 fixtures are required for 100 FC maintained. Given the geometry of the room and fixtures, 19 fixtures would be difficult to maccomplish. 16 fixtures gives a good fit and still provides 71-72 FC maintained. Run 1 x 4 x 24 ft furring strips equally spaced on 5 ft centers, Sign posted at a whore house: "Furring strips--Extra!". --anon. At 24' each, they may cost me a few bucks too. I have to add them to the material list. Getting them attached to the stippled ceiling without breaking it ought to be a careful procedure too. I read about using 8-penny nails, but I like my chances better using screws. Should probably leave 1/8"-1/4" between boards to allow for expansion, no? That maybe not look so cool if they are staggered between ceiling joists (as advised). You won't need furring strips, Bill. Fixtures will screw directly through the drywall ceiling into the joists. That's one of the reasons I suggested that you run them that direction. Still having fun. I plan to attach string between nails, scrape stipple, nail up the boards, and then wonder whether I should have dimensioned the 1by4's! The ceiling is, however, rather more suspect in that category... Yeah, and don't forget to sand them to 4000 grit. sigh -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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"Bill" wrote: At 24' each, they may cost me a few bucks too. I have to add them to the material list. #2 common 1x4 x 96 furring strips, expensive? That gives new meaning to the word "expensive. Mount furring strips with 3" deck screws, junction boxes and fixtures with #14 x 1" pan head, coarse thread sheet metal screws fitted with a 1/4" flat washer. Drill a 3/16" pilot hole for #14 screws. Only a masochist would drive nails overhead these days. Lew |
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Larry Jaques wrote:
You won't need furring strips, Bill. Fixtures will screw directly through the drywall ceiling into the joists. That's one of the reasons I suggested that you run them that direction. I'm not planning to sand them to 4000 grit, but I thought of putting a simple bevel on them with my router to add a little class. Then, just paint on one coat of "First coat", huh? Course, I'm not sure exactly what'll happen when the furring strips push up the aged, stippled-but shaved, drywall. Bill Still having fun. I plan to attach string between nails, scrape stipple, nail up the boards, and then wonder whether I should have dimensioned the 1by4's! The ceiling is, however, rather more suspect in that category... Yeah, and don't forget to sand them to 4000 grit.sigh -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 22:59:37 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: You won't need furring strips, Bill. Fixtures will screw directly through the drywall ceiling into the joists. That's one of the reasons I suggested that you run them that direction. I'm not planning to sand them to 4000 grit, but I thought of putting a simple bevel on them with my router to add a little class. Then, just paint on one coat of "First coat", huh? Oh, sure. Course, I'm not sure exactly what'll happen when the furring strips push up the aged, stippled-but shaved, drywall. What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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Larry Jaques wrote:
What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely. |
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chaniarts wrote:
Bill wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely. Not talking about the drywall moving, rather the "furring strips" that the lights are mounted to. Larry suggested mounting the 1by4s to the studs end-to-end. It was suggested to mount these from wall-to-wall. I was concerning that the ends could lift each other due to the expansion of the wood. I've seen wooden molding "bow", which I assume is related to such expansion. I've just a humble beginner: Birds know more about trees than I do... : ) Bill |
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Bill wrote:
chaniarts wrote: Bill wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely. Not talking about the drywall moving, rather the "furring strips" that the lights are mounted to. Larry suggested mounting the 1by4s to the studs end-to-end. It was suggested to mount these from wall-to-wall. I was concerning that the ends could lift each other due to the expansion of the wood. I've seen wooden molding "bow", which I assume is related to such expansion. I've just a humble beginner: Birds know more about trees than I do... : ) Bill screw the lights directly through the drywall into the joists. i find joists using magnets; i have a lot of 1/4"x1/16" supermagnets. put one over each screwhead that's holding the drywall to the stud gives you a good line on where to place the screws. |
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chaniarts wrote:
Bill wrote: chaniarts wrote: Bill wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely. Not talking about the drywall moving, rather the "furring strips" that the lights are mounted to. Larry suggested mounting the 1by4s to the studs end-to-end. It was suggested to mount these from wall-to-wall. I was concerning that the ends could lift each other due to the expansion of the wood. I've seen wooden molding "bow", which I assume is related to such expansion. I've just a humble beginner: Birds know more about trees than I do... : ) Bill screw the lights directly through the drywall into the joists. i find joists using magnets; i have a lot of 1/4"x1/16" supermagnets. put one over each screwhead that's holding the drywall to the stud gives you a good line on where to place the screws. I bought a $5 studfinder the other day, but I have some "supermagnets" too and I think they will be helpful. Thanks for the suggestion. |
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Bill wrote:
Yep, I need build some scaffolding and do my own light density experiment. It occurred to me that such "scaffolding" may be handy to me in hanging furring strips and lighting--as I'm a one-man-show here at home. If I build vertical "structures" to 6 inches shy of the ceiling, say, they may serve as my 2nd set of hands. And, they won't whine or make me "wait a couple minutes"!! I'm learning! : ) Bill |
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On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 15:26:51 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and Jesus H. Christ, Bill. Didn't you install -insulation- before covering the walls with drywall? That temp swing is dismal! humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). GollyGeeWhiz! I've never seen grain on metal fixtures or drywall. ;) Again I ask: why install furring strips at all? P.S: Standard furring strips are 1"x2"x8' and no gap is needed. 1x4 is El Cheapo baseboard. -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 16:08:38 -0500, Bill wrote:
chaniarts wrote: Bill wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em. Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F, and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy). Bill no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely. Not talking about the drywall moving, rather the "furring strips" that the lights are mounted to. Larry suggested mounting the 1by4s to the studs end-to-end. It was suggested to mount these from wall-to-wall. I I most certainly did NOT, Bill. I told you to mount the lights in that orientation and asked WTF? when you started on about furring strips, which are unnecessary, unless you have some nastyass warts on your shiny new fixtures. Most are built to mount flat against the wall or ceiling. -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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Larry Jaques wrote:
I most certainly did NOT, Bill. I told you to mount the lights in that orientation and asked WTF? when you started on about furring strips, which are unnecessary, unless you have some nastyass warts on your shiny new fixtures. Most are built to mount flat against the wall or ceiling. Yes, you and others got me to rotate my lights by 90 degrees. Furring strips may be unnecessary, but I think they may add something extra, beside making it easy to nail up my clamp and boxes. There is something that makes me uneasy about running EMT across the stippled ceiling. It could end up looking too much like somebody's basement. A beveled furring strip says, to me, that somebody cared. I'm about the only one that's going to be in there, and I'll appreciate the difference. The added inconvenience is pretty minimal since I'm doing the work myself. Besides that, if I didn't put up the furring strips, I wouldn't have as good of an excuse to repaint the ceiling! : ) Bill |
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On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 23:26:20 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: I most certainly did NOT, Bill. I told you to mount the lights in that orientation and asked WTF? when you started on about furring strips, which are unnecessary, unless you have some nastyass warts on your shiny new fixtures. Most are built to mount flat against the wall or ceiling. Yes, you and others got me to rotate my lights by 90 degrees. Furring strips may be unnecessary, but I think they may add something extra, beside making it easy to nail up my clamp and boxes. There is something that makes me uneasy about running EMT across the stippled ceiling. It could end up looking too much like somebody's basement. A beveled furring strip says, to me, that somebody cared. I'm about the only one that's going to be in there, and I'll appreciate the I sure can't argue that. Sure you don't want gold-filled dentil moulding around them, too? gd&r difference. The added inconvenience is pretty minimal since I'm doing the work myself. Besides that, if I didn't put up the furring strips, I wouldn't have as good of an excuse to repaint the ceiling! : ) There ya go! g -- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch |
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Bill wrote:
Furring strips may be unnecessary, but I think they may add something extra, beside making it easy to nail up my clamp and boxes. There is something that makes me uneasy about running EMT across the stippled ceiling. It could end up looking too much like somebody's basement. A beveled furring strip says, to me, that somebody cared. I'm about the only one that's going to be in there, and I'll appreciate the difference. The added inconvenience is pretty minimal since I'm doing the work myself. Besides that, if I didn't put up the furring strips, I wouldn't have as good of an excuse to repaint the ceiling! : ) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder Bill, so whatever floats your boat is what you do. As far as looking like someone's basement - well, I guess... maybe. To me, conduit properly hung would simply look like conduit properly hung. I don't see where firring strips would say that somebody cared, but that's my perspective, and it ain't my garage. If it really appeals to your eye more, then just go with it, and move past any discussion about firring strips here. Forget about any concerns for shrinkage/expansion. Just screw them up. Do you think the builders of your house allowed for shrinkage/expansion in the stud walls when they nailed them together? -- -Mike- |
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On 12/15/2010 8:55 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
To me, conduit properly hung would simply look like conduit properly hung. Yes, I'll get more flexibility regarding clamp placement too, and that of my boxes. BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Thank you (and Larry) for not shooting down my (Lew's) design idea. Bill |
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Bill wrote:
On 12/15/2010 8:55 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: To me, conduit properly hung would simply look like conduit properly hung. Yes, I'll get more flexibility regarding clamp placement too, and that of my boxes. Code dictates clamp placement. BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. The store bought offsets work perfectly fine - for the rookies... Thank you (and Larry) for not shooting down my (Lew's) design idea. Not really shooting down Lew's ideas. Just adding a thought. Lew's thoughts were based on one thing, mine on another. -- -Mike- |
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"Bill" wrote BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Bill, you really NEED a conduit bender. Rally, two, 1/2" and a 3/4". It is another skill to learn and master that will give you and people like you (us) a good feeling of satisfaction. It really isn't all that hard, and you will use it again, I guarantee. -- Jim in NC |
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Morgans wrote:
"Bill" wrote BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Bill, you really NEED a conduit bender. Rally, two, 1/2" and a 3/4". It is another skill to learn and master that will give you and people like you (us) a good feeling of satisfaction. It really isn't all that hard, and you will use it again, I guarantee. Especially after you compare a successful bend to the pile of kinks laying over in the corner... -- -Mike- |
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Mike Marlow wrote:
Morgans wrote: wrote BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Bill, you really NEED a conduit bender. Rally, two, 1/2" and a 3/4". It is another skill to learn and master that will give you and people like you (us) a good feeling of satisfaction. It really isn't all that hard, and you will use it again, I guarantee. Especially after you compare a successful bend to the pile of kinks laying over in the corner... Well, the (1/2") conduit is 1.60 for per 10 feet pc. I could afford to practice a little. $30 for the bender. I think the appearance would be better without so many offset connectors... Bill |
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Bill wrote:
BTW, for those that think I'm so tight I squeak (my dad's expression), I sprung for the extra 50 cents/stud for the premium lumber. -------------------- You remind me of my Hoosier uncle. He was so tight you could hear him walking from 5 miles away. Lew |
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Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Morgans wrote: wrote BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Bill, you really NEED a conduit bender. Rally, two, 1/2" and a 3/4". It is another skill to learn and master that will give you and people like you (us) a good feeling of satisfaction. It really isn't all that hard, and you will use it again, I guarantee. Especially after you compare a successful bend to the pile of kinks laying over in the corner... Well, the (1/2") conduit is 1.60 for per 10 feet pc. I could afford to practice a little. $30 for the bender. I think the appearance would be better without so many offset connectors... It would be. The conduit looks more graceful when it simply sweeps up into a box, rather than having an offset screwed to it - but only marginally so, since it still has to clamp into a box connector. Sorta like a great set of 34B's tucked into either a spandex sports bra, or tucked into a sheer lace bra - both ruin the look of the natural beauty, one just ruins the look much more. Swingman - ya with me on this one? -- -Mike- |
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Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Morgans wrote: wrote BTW, I saw an "offset connnector" in a book that may eliminate my need for an EMT bender. At about 1.50/each (on Amazon), there is no apparent cost savings though. Perhaps they are cheaper by the bag. Bill, you really NEED a conduit bender. Rally, two, 1/2" and a 3/4". It is another skill to learn and master that will give you and people like you (us) a good feeling of satisfaction. It really isn't all that hard, and you will use it again, I guarantee. Especially after you compare a successful bend to the pile of kinks laying over in the corner... Well, the (1/2") conduit is 1.60 for per 10 feet pc. I could afford to practice a little. $30 for the bender. I think the appearance would be better without so many offset connectors... It would be. The conduit looks more graceful when it simply sweeps up into a box, rather than having an offset screwed to it - but only marginally so, since it still has to clamp into a box connector. If it keeps one person from calling attention to it, it's worth it...lol! I'd rather spend my time describing the artful way I formed the conduit angles, scaling the curvature between that of the side of a fine violin and that of a 34B. Though some might miss it if I didn't afix drawings or photos on the wall for the sake of comparison. Whose got that Miss December photo from Cherry magazine? I haven't seen it, but it sounded just about right. Bill |
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Bill wrote:
I have a small black "shop mole" I run into from time to time. I wondered what he was doing for food. I learned he evidently ate a 5 pound bag of dog biscuits last winter, all through a hole no larger than a nickle near the bottom. My wife said she isn't going to feed him this year. Bill I have an update. Clearing away some paper and plastic bags, only about 3 feet away from the original source, a size 13 Nike tennis shoe was observed half-filled with the little dog biscuits. The shoes are new but a little too big for me, and I would have given them away to someone who could use them--and I guess I did, sort of! ; ) Bill |
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