All,

I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7", vertical section
is approx. 10" x 7".

The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., angle from top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.

My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior visible evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.

Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned of full blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!

After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the two pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up with anything
usable.

Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that require only basic
wood working skills.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Regards,

Doug

"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." wrote in message
...
All,

I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7",
vertical section
is approx. 10" x 7".

The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e.,
angle from top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.

My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior
visible evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.

Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned
of full blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!

After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the
two pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up
with anything
usable.

Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that
require only basic
wood working skills.

Yes, the blind dovetail is a challenge and isn't a beginner's joint. I've
done them for the challenge, but quite frankly there are more reasonable
modern day approaches that can be cut with machines. For example, use
Splines.... An overly simplified description is to miter the sides to make
your corners and cut a groove along the length of the mating surfaces into
which a third piece, the spline is placed.

DAGS "wood spline joint" there are lots of references...

John

"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." wrote in message
...
All,

I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7",
vertical section
is approx. 10" x 7".

The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e.,
angle from top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.

My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior
visible evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.

Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned
of full blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!

After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the
two pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up
with anything
usable.

Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that
require only basic
wood working skills.


IIUC you want to join the ends of these 7" wide boards to form an italic L
shaped stand. This would be I think an easy method:

Presume you can plane the oak all round and cut a mitre in the ends to the
angle you want so the meeting surfaces are good and close? Do that then use
the incredible 'Mitre Bond' adhesive to join the boards in a few seconds.
Don't glue your hands to it. The join may seem strong but could do with some
reinforcing because the wood is bound to move and the glue won't allow that,
so from the underside carefully drill and insert screws, nails, dowels or a
combination of the three. Sand and polish, Voila!

Tim W

PS 'Mitre Bond' is the product name in the uk, used by kitchen fitters to
assemble wooden mouldings, one bottle of clear adhesive and an aerosol of
activator, you only need to hold the joint together for 60secs and it sets
very hard. Don't know what you would call it in america, probably Baboon
Glue or something.

"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." wrote in message
...
All,

I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7", vertical
section
is approx. 10" x 7".

The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., angle from
top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.

My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior visible
evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.

Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned of full
blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!

After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the two
pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up with
anything
usable.

Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that require only
basic
wood working skills.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Regards,

Doug

A dowel butt joint should fit your requirement nicely and is a good
joint for a beginner.
http://sawdustmaking.com/About%20Joi...out_joints.htm
Art

On Nov 7, 2:50*pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." wrote:
All,

I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7", vertical section
is approx. 10" x 7".

The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., angle from top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.

My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior visible evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.

Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned of full blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!

After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the two pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up with anything
usable.

Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that require only basic
wood working skills.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

It's not entirely clear from your description whether the vertical
piece sits on top of the base, or if the bottom of the vertical piece
is flush with the bottom of the bottom piece. The bottom of the base
is hidden, right? For the first situation, you could of course just
screw up through the bottom piece, but that's pretty obvious, so it's
either not that configuration of you have some reason not to use
screws. If it's the second situation you could use pocket screws.
Hidden, strong and simple as can be.

Be aware that "strong as can be" might equate to "not strong enough"
if you have a very heavy model. Anything under five pounds should be
no problem at all.

R

Thanks to everyone for their comments.

As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end result - which is for the
bottom of the vertical piece to be flush with the bottom of the bottom piece.

The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.

Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10" stationary radial arm saw
and a table mounted router.

Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide the desired result
and is likely within my range of capability.

Again - thanks to all for the benefit of your experience.

May also try full blind dovetails on scrap pieces - just to see if I can do it.

Regards,

Doug

RicodJour wrote:



It's not entirely clear from your description whether the vertical
piece sits on top of the base, or if the bottom of the vertical piece
is flush with the bottom of the bottom piece. The bottom of the base
is hidden, right? For the first situation, you could of course just
screw up through the bottom piece, but that's pretty obvious, so it's
either not that configuration of you have some reason not to use
screws. If it's the second situation you could use pocket screws.
Hidden, strong and simple as can be.

Be aware that "strong as can be" might equate to "not strong enough"
if you have a very heavy model. Anything under five pounds should be
no problem at all.

R

On Nov 10, 1:49*am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their comments.

As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end result - which is for the
bottom of the vertical piece to be flush with the bottom of the bottom piece.

The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.

Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10" stationary radial arm saw
and a table mounted router.

Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide the desired result
and is likely within my range of capability.

Again - thanks to all for the benefit of your experience.

May also try full blind dovetails on scrap pieces - just to see if I can do it.

Pocket screws are easier, particularly if you're doing a totally
hidden joint. Splines are fine if you want the ends to show and
you'll treat them as a decorative element. Otherwise, biscuits (can
be done with a router) or a pocket hole jig (cheap and you'll find all
sort of uses for it).

R

Try this link to see a great solution to your situation. I've used these
bits in the past, and they make a fantanstically strong joint if you glue
them and clamp them properly. This is where I was able to find mine, but you
may want a different size.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...eud-99034.aspx

Hope this helps!
Kevin

--
The keener the eye, the better to see the target!

Thanks Kevin - must admit to not being aware of lock miter router bits.

Will keep these in mind for future requirements.

Regards,

Doug


wrote:

Try this link to see a great solution to your situation. I've used these
bits in the past, and they make a fantanstically strong joint if you glue
them and clamp them properly. This is where I was able to find mine, but you
may want a different size.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...eud-99034.aspx

Hope this helps!
Kevin