http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

On Nov 3, 8:15*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

Scratch that. Make that "The advantages of woodworking accuracy"

Where is the glue going to go?

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Where is the glue going to go?

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.




In the joint oc course. If some squeeses out that is perfectly fine. The
thinner the glue film the better.

The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.
How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?

I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit together due
to swelling?)


"Leon" wrote in message
...
In the joint oc course. If some squeeses out that is perfectly fine. The
thinner the glue film the better.



"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Where is the glue going to go?

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.
How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?

I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit together due
to swelling?)


If you are glueing up two panels edge to edge and clamp up that union, how
thick is that glue line? Naturally you would want to put a minimal amount
but complete coverage layer in the bottom of the lap joints, but any more
than enough to cover is too much.
Earlier this year as mentioned in another post on this thread I was working
on a project with 96 lap joints. These joints were 1/2" wide and 3/64" deep
for a combined thickness of 3/32". The joints were tight enough to hold the
assembly together with out glue as proven by the test fit. Applying the
proper amount of glue posed no problem with fit.
Had there been any weak joints the 8 assemblies would have flown apart
during their 3-4 trips through the drum sander.

The video demo link provided showed a tight fitting joint that encompassed
each piece of wood, not a lap joint or "edge to edge" where any amout of
adhesive would fit.

If you put wood glue on the insdie surfaces of one of these tight joint
"pockets" the wood would likely swell and the joint would no longer fit
together. I am sure most experienced wood workers have experiences this
trauma at some point after doing very precise machining and then gluing. A
mallet and prayer comes to mind in these cases...LOL

Agreed and point taken on the thinness of the glue in the joint, though.



"Leon" wrote in message
...
If you are glueing up two panels edge to edge and clamp up that union, how
thick is that glue line? Naturally you would want to put a minimal amount
but complete coverage layer in the bottom of the lap joints, but any more
than enough to cover is too much.
Earlier this year as mentioned in another post on this thread I was working
on a project with 96 lap joints. These joints were 1/2" wide and 3/64" deep
for a combined thickness of 3/32". The joints were tight enough to hold the
assembly together with out glue as proven by the test fit. Applying the
proper amount of glue posed no problem with fit.
Had there been any weak joints the 8 assemblies would have flown apart
during their 3-4 trips through the drum sander.


"Josepi" wrote in message
...
The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.
How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?

I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit together due
to swelling?)

"Nale Bangha" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote:

Enjoying being trolled. Dickhead!
Wake up to the environment and smell the troll ****.

Nale

Bite Me

Nale Bangha wrote:
"Leon" wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.
How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?

I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit
together due to swelling?)


If you are glueing up two panels edge to edge and clamp up that
union, how thick is that glue line? Naturally you would want to put
a minimal amount but complete coverage layer in the bottom of the
lap joints, but any more than enough to cover is too much.
Earlier this year as mentioned in another post on this thread I was
working on a project with 96 lap joints. These joints were 1/2"
wide and 3/64" deep for a combined thickness of 3/32". The joints
were tight enough to hold the assembly together with out glue as
proven by the test fit. Applying the proper amount of glue posed no
problem with fit.
Had there been any weak joints the 8 assemblies would have flown
apart during their 3-4 trips through the drum sander.

Enjoying being trolled. Dickhead!
Wake up to the environment and smell the troll ****.

Nale

Welcome to the world of don't give a **** people, asshole. Real, honest
people like you will find here eaily dismiss idiots like yourself - and we
don't care a wit about doing so. Dickead, indead - that would be what is
commonly referred to as projection. So Dichead - how does that troll ****
taste in your mouth?


--

-Mike-

On 11/4/10 9:18 AM, Josepi wrote:
The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.

Myth.


How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?


No, did you watch the video?


I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit together due
to swelling?)


The joint fits. The strength is in the joint, due in part to the
tightness of the fit.
The glue is simply holding the two pieces together.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
The joint, promoted, has no space for glue.
How about 0 thickness? Would that be the strongest?

I guess there would be some absoption (or would the joint fit together due
to swelling?)

My handcut dovetails genrally have zero clearance... but they stay together.

Leaving room for glue is overrated. ;~)

John

On 11/4/10 3:31 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

Leaving room for glue is overrated. ;~)


It's an excuse for poor craftsmanship. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Nov 3, 9:52*pm, "Josepi" wrote:

Where is the glue going to go?

Into the wood fibers. You sure you're not using adhesive caulk?

R

In article ,
GarageWoodworks wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

It is neat, but they cannot demonstrate any real need for the
pricey tools they sell
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 11/3/10 10:04 PM, Larry W wrote:
In ,
wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

It is neat, but they cannot demonstrate any real need for the
pricey tools they sell

There are lots of tools we don't "need."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Larry W" wrote in message
It is neat, but they cannot demonstrate any real need for the
pricey tools they sell

Really? Just for information's sake, try asking Leon how often he uses his
Kerfmaker Pro? Or perhaps, ask Bridge City what the waiting period is for
one of their Jointmaker Pro tools? Most would consider them extremely pricey
and the waiting period is months and months. But, low and behold, there are
many people on the waiting list for one. That includes me.

Need and price are most certainly relative to the person that is going to
use the tool. When you get down to it, few of us need more than a pocket
knife to build our projects, but it sure is nice and convenient to have
those additional tools on hand.

In article ,
Upscale wrote:

"Larry W" wrote in message
It is neat, but they cannot demonstrate any real need for the
pricey tools they sell

Really? Just for information's sake, try asking Leon how often he uses his
Kerfmaker Pro? Or perhaps, ask Bridge City what the waiting period is for
one of their Jointmaker Pro tools? Most would consider them extremely pricey
and the waiting period is months and months. But, low and behold, there are
many people on the waiting list for one. That includes me.

Need and price are most certainly relative to the person that is going to
use the tool. When you get down to it, few of us need more than a pocket
knife to build our projects, but it sure is nice and convenient to have
those additional tools on hand.



Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Nov 4, 5:32*pm, (Larry W) wrote:
Upscale wrote:

Need and price are most certainly relative to the person that is going to
use the tool. When you get down to it, few of us need more than a pocket
knife to build our projects, but it sure is nice and convenient to have
those additional tools on hand.

Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.

It's so much quicker to have firm opinions on tools you've never
used. And cheaper.

R

In article ,
RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 4, 5:32*pm, (Larry W) wrote:
Upscale wrote:

Need and price are most certainly relative to the person that is going to
use the tool. When you get down to it, few of us need more than a pocket
knife to build our projects, but it sure is nice and convenient to have
those additional tools on hand.

Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.

It's so much quicker to have firm opinions on tools you've never
used. And cheaper.

R

Indeed it is, I must admit when I first saw the B&D adjustable wrench with
a battery powered motor to do the adjusting, I reached a similar opinion
even more quickly. On the other hand, I really like my old Delta cast iron
tenoning jig, and there are plenty here on the rec that will tell me I'm a
fool for having one.



--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 11/4/2010 4:34 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 4, 5:32 pm, (Larry W) wrote:
wrote:

Need and price are most certainly relative to the person that is going to
use the tool. When you get down to it, few of us need more than a pocket
knife to build our projects, but it sure is nice and convenient to have
those additional tools on hand.

Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.

It's so much quicker to have firm opinions on tools you've never
used. And cheaper.

I recall a similar recent conversation about the Grr-Ripper.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"RicodJour" wrote in message
It's so much quicker to have firm opinions on tools you've never
used.

Well, in this cas, my firm opinion is practical. I own a Kerfmaker Pro. Been
in my possession since the beginning of October. I've only used it twice,
but both times, the joints were flawless.

All this stuff about being overpriced and unnecessary overlooks several
things. The first is that similar joints made by me in the past were poorly
done. Obviously, that's my fault because I hadn't learned the proper
procedures. Now with the Kerfmaker my joints are exceptional. Maybe I might
be criticised for spending my money and taking what some might call a
shortcut. But, now I have the confidence and ability to construct them well
and will do so. Isn't that the most important thing in woodworking, to build
ever better constructed projects? Doesn't matter so much as how you get
there, just that you find a means to do so.

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Upscale wrote:


Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.



I'll agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is unnecessary, The joint
can be cut with a hand held circular saw with no real need for a TS which
will cost much more. I agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is
exorbitantly priced, all of Bridge City Tools are, yet I own several of
their tools.

If you actually cut half lap joints on a regular basis or avoid them because
they can be a lot of trouble to reproduce accurately over and over than, I
don't agree that the tool is overrated, it does exactly what it is designed
to do with VERY little effort and chance of error. If would be overrated if
it showed even a hint of not being able to do what it was designed to do,
perfectly. There is no flaw in the design and if the joint does not come
out correctly it is not the fault of the Kerfmaker.

Unless you have actually used one your assumption that it is overrated is
not valid. If you have used one and still feel that it is over rated you
really don't have the skill to do accurate work any way.

Now that is not to say that you are not a skilled woodworker, it is only to
indicate that this tool makes as much sense and works as dependably as an
electric on/off switch on a corded tool. You can stop and start an electric
power tool by simply plugging it in and unplugging the power cord but life
is soooo much easier if you don't have to do that every time you want to use
the tool.

In article ,
Leon wrote:

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Upscale wrote:


Well of course it really comes down to opinion and individual preference
in this instance. For my own needs and preferences, I stand by my
statement of opinion that the Kerfmaker is an unnecessary, exorbitantly
priced, and overrated tool. I'll stick with the old method, accurate,
tried and true in my experience, and described in the past on the rec,
of cutting any old piece of scrap as a guide. YMMV and your opinion
may be different. That's what makes the world and usenet go round.



I'll agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is unnecessary, The joint
can be cut with a hand held circular saw with no real need for a TS which
will cost much more. I agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is
exorbitantly priced, all of Bridge City Tools are, yet I own several of
their tools.

If you actually cut half lap joints on a regular basis or avoid them because
they can be a lot of trouble to reproduce accurately over and over than, I
don't agree that the tool is overrated, it does exactly what it is designed
to do with VERY little effort and chance of error. If would be overrated if
it showed even a hint of not being able to do what it was designed to do,
perfectly. There is no flaw in the design and if the joint does not come
out correctly it is not the fault of the Kerfmaker.

Unless you have actually used one your assumption that it is overrated is
not valid. If you have used one and still feel that it is over rated you
really don't have the skill to do accurate work any way.

Now that is not to say that you are not a skilled woodworker, it is only to
indicate that this tool makes as much sense and works as dependably as an
electric on/off switch on a corded tool. You can stop and start an electric
power tool by simply plugging it in and unplugging the power cord but life
is soooo much easier if you don't have to do that every time you want to use
the tool.



I concede your point about the tool not being overrated. I am sure it does
work very well for its intended purpose and I do like the design and
implementation. I still would call it unnecessary, as it takes less than
a minute to cut a piece of stock that will do precisely the same thing.
And that method doesn't anything to be recalibrated if you change blades.


--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article
,
GarageWoodworks wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

It is neat, but they cannot demonstrate any real need for the
pricey tools they sell
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

I have the "tool" and have used it more times in the last year than I
thought I would ever use it. In particular I needed to create muntons for
my tower bed project earlier this year. Basically I inserted fake window
frames in 8 openings in my head board and foot boards. The pieces were
3/32" thick and all joints were lap joints. Perfect fit for all 96 joints.

On Nov 4, 8:52*am, "Leon" wrote:

I have the "tool" and have used it more times in the last year than I
thought I would ever use it. *In particular I needed to create muntons for
my tower bed project earlier this year. *Basically I inserted fake window
frames in 8 openings in my head board and foot boards. *The pieces were
3/32" thick and all joints were lap joints. *Perfect fit for all 96 joints.

We expect no less from you - perfect fits every time. BTW, with your
new 3 horse-drawn carriage shop we're going to expect better than
perfect.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Nov 4, 8:52 am, "Leon" wrote:

I have the "tool" and have used it more times in the last year than I
thought I would ever use it. In particular I needed to create muntons for
my tower bed project earlier this year. Basically I inserted fake window
frames in 8 openings in my head board and foot boards. The pieces were
3/32" thick and all joints were lap joints. Perfect fit for all 96 joints.

We expect no less from you - perfect fits every time. BTW, with your
new 3 horse-drawn carriage shop we're going to expect better than
perfect.

R

Better would be good.... but more breathing room for sure. LOL

GarageWoodworks wrote:
: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BExGi9HbLSM

: Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.

How much is that piece of wood going to contract and expand across its width
with humidity (and temperature) changes?

I don't have Hoadley's book, but I vaguely recall when I built a bookcase with both maple
and sycamore, looking up the rates of expansion (to make sure they matched), and it
was something like 1/8 or 1/4" across the depth of the bookcase. That gives something like .006"
per inch, a bigger gap than any of the loose joints the BCTW video shows.

-- Andy Barss