Hi,

I'm doing a small piece in curly soft maple using the "Early American
Maple Finish" as described in Jeff Jewitt's "Great Wood Finishes" book
and also on the Homestead Finishing website.

Here's my problem: I'm confused about the compatibility of glazes. I
assume there are problems if you use a water-based glaze with
oil-compatible topcoats (varnish and some lacquers) and vice versa.
I've been reading all I can on this but I've still got confusion on
these questions:

1. If you use an acrylic-based glaze (water-based), I assume you
can't use a regular short-oil varnish over the top of the glaze.

2. If you wanted to use a short-oil varnish over an acrylic based
glaze, could you use a second shellac barrier coat, or would that mess
up the appearance?

3. How do you obtain an oil-based glaze? The people at the art store
tell me that you just mix an oil color with linseed oil (?)

The finish sequence I'm using includes aniline dye followed by oil,
coated with a shellac barrier layer. After that the recipe calls for
"van dyke brown glaze" and a couple of coats of "varnish or
polyurethane."

I've got a couple of test boards going to try to check it out but I
thought I would ask someone with more experience. This is my first
experience with glazing and dyes. I've DAGS of course.

Thanks!
Nate

(Nate Perkins) wrote:

Here's my problem: I'm confused about the compatibility of glazes. I

If anyone is in a similar boat ... I used vandyke brown artist oil,
thinned with boiled linseed. I used garnet shellac above and below
the glaze. The finished piece came out fine.