I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:
I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

On Aug 18, 4:03*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. Which one are you referring to?

Jim

On Aug 18, 4:04*pm, jtpr wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:03*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend..
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. *Which one are you referring to?

Jim

The Freud Glueline Rip. Ripping is a whole different blade issue and
only ripping blades rip. Combo blades make a poor second choice.

On Aug 18, 4:27*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:04*pm, jtpr wrote:





On Aug 18, 4:03*pm, Robatoy wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. *Which one are you referring to?

Jim

The Freud Glueline Rip. Ripping is a whole different blade issue and
only ripping blades rip. Combo blades make a poor second choice.

That Ridgid blade you linked to won't rip... it will just burn....well
you probably will get through some wood..but.

On Aug 18, 4:29*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:27*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Aug 18, 4:04*pm, jtpr wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:03*pm, Robatoy wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. *Which one are you referring to?

Jim

The Freud Glueline Rip. Ripping is a whole different blade issue and
only ripping blades rip. Combo blades make a poor second choice.

That Ridgid blade you linked to won't rip... it will just burn....well
you probably will get through some wood..but.

Thank you. Tell me, what is the difference between a "glue line" rip
blade and just a rip blade? Just the quality of the cut? And what
happens if you just leave this in your saw and do occasional cross
cuts with it. I mean I generally use my Mitre saw for that but when I
do fine mitre cuts on boxes and things I like to use the table saw.

I appreciate the quick input.

-Jim

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:04:05 -0700 (PDT), jtpr
wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:03*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. Which one are you referring to?

If any of you can't make a decent glueup of two relatively flat/dry
boards cut on any moderately tuned-up saw and any relatively new
carbide blade, something is wrong with -your- setup or -your-
technique, not the saw or blade. Hell, even Crapsman can get that
right. gd&r

--
We're all here because we're not all there.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:04:05 -0700 (PDT), jtpr
wrote:

On Aug 18, 4:03 pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 18, 4:00 pm, jtpr wrote:

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

Wow, that was quick. Which one are you referring to?

If any of you can't make a decent glueup of two relatively flat/dry
boards cut on any moderately tuned-up saw and any relatively new
carbide blade, something is wrong with -your- setup or -your-
technique, not the saw or blade. Hell, even Crapsman can get that
right. gd&r


Totally agree, I recently got rid of my jointer, it collected dust and was
in the way.

Any opinions?

-Jim

I do like Freud. I wanted to love the thin kerf Glu-Line rip LM75.
First one I got left bad cut lines and I figured it had one or two
badly sharpened teeth. I took it back for a refund but they said try
another. It did the same thing. I went back to the standard rip thin
kerf LU87 and love it.

On Aug 18, 4:00*pm, jtpr wrote:
I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. *Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. *I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. *I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? *http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. *I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

My Freud thin kerf rip goes through hard maple like a
hot knife through butter, but it tends to lead, enough
that the surface needs truing up with my ever-handy
#5. For a real glue joint quality blade, you need
a standard kerf.

In article ,
jtpr wrote:
I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

A rip blade would not have 90 teeth. A good general purpose blade like
the Forrest WW2, some of the Freuds or CMT, (I'm not familiar with exact model
numbers for these) or a few other good quality blades will do very well
for most use. A dedicated ripping blade is nice to have if you plan
on doing a LOT of ripping, or ripping thicker stock, especially on a
contractor's saw or other saw with 1.5 or less HP. Most 10 inch rip
blades have 24 or fewer teeth. (Man, I remember when I had 24 teeth...
Those were the days!)


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Larry W" wrote

A rip blade would not have 90 teeth. A good general purpose blade like
the Forrest WW2, some of the Freuds or CMT, (I'm not familiar with exact
model
numbers for these) or a few other good quality blades will do very well
for most use. A dedicated ripping blade is nice to have if you plan
on doing a LOT of ripping, or ripping thicker stock, especially on a
contractor's saw or other saw with 1.5 or less HP. Most 10 inch rip
blades have 24 or fewer teeth. (Man, I remember when I had 24 teeth...

I found a high speed steel rip blade that someone before me had purchased.
That was the time that you sent your blades out to be sharpened and reset
when they got really bad. You touched them up yourself when they just got a
little dull.

But I digress. I was ripping some really wet air dried yellow pine, and it
was giving me fits. I decided that all my blades were not sharp enough for
this job. Then I remembered the old rip blade I had seen on a shelf. This
thing was a 10" blade, and I think it had 8 teeth. I put it in just to see
how bad it would be.

Surprise. It went through the rest of that hard ripping wood at least twice
as easy, and I was amazed.

So I agree; less teeth is better. 24 teeth should do well.
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:
"Larry W" wrote

A rip blade would not have 90 teeth. A good general purpose blade like

But I digress. I was ripping some really wet air dried yellow pine, and it
was giving me fits. I decided that all my blades were not sharp enough for
this job. Then I remembered the old rip blade I had seen on a shelf. This
thing was a 10" blade, and I think it had 8 teeth. I put it in just to see
how bad it would be.

Surprise. It went through the rest of that hard ripping wood at least twice
as easy, and I was amazed.

So I agree; less teeth is better. 24 teeth should do well.

I agree. I have 8, 12, 24, 40 and 60 tooth blades. I bought the 40,
and was given the 60. The 8 tooth is the oldest and cheapest of all my
blades and it cuts like butter. The cut is a little rough but I've
glued up stuff without running it through the jointer and had no
problem. Smooth surface is a non-issue but chip out and straight cut is
all important. Sharp 24 tooth is good. 90 tooth is stupid for normal
work, imo. My 60 tooth hangs on my wall...

I was cutting a 10° taper though half a Wolmanized 2x6x12' for a rail
cap (http://jbstein.com/Flick/RegesTopRail.jpg) and my underpowered saw
was dying in the wet lumber with just a 1 1/2" depth. Switched to my 40
year old 8 tooth and hello dolly, cut the full 2 3/4" depth in one pass.

--
Jack
A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.
http://jbstein.com

"jtpr" wrote in message
...
I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. Anyway I've had
it for too many years and want a new one. I have a Woodcraft near me
as well as a HD and Lowes. I need to pick it up before the weekend.
Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish
Saw Blade? http://tinyurl.com/2fvoo24

Other then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. I am looking
at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me.
I liked the look of this one:

http://tinyurl.com/3yygjty

Any opinions?

-Jim

I have a good rip blade, I never use it. I only use a Forrest WWII reg kerf
40 tooth for all cuts. I lied, I use the rip blade when cutting
contaminated wood. I even resaw with it full depth.

My Forrest blade is 10 years old.....and is resharpened every 18 months or
so.

If you invest in a Forrest you will not have to wonder if you have one of
the best...and in the long run it will be cheaper.