Hello ng,

I just put the gate together that I brought up a couple weeks ago. The
fortran calculations I made were right on the nuts:

$ gfortran -Wall -Wextra judy3.f90 -o out.exe
$ ./out.exe
rough opening is 36.000000
encasing is 2.5000000
finished opening is 33.500000
left_gap is 0.50000000
right_gap is 0.50000000
spar is 32.500000
middle is 31.000000
gap is 3.5000000
calc is 4.8750000
height2 is 60.500000
height3 is 53.500000
$ cat judy3.f90
implicit none

integer, parameter :: sp = selected_real_kind(3,7)

real (kind=sp):: rough_opening, encasing, fin_opening
real (kind=sp):: left_gap, right_gap, spar
real (kind=sp):: top_hinge, bottom_hinge, middle
real (kind=sp):: picket_width, gap
real (kind=sp):: middle2, bot_reveal, height, calc, top_reveal
real (kind=sp):: height2, height3
real (kind=sp) :: check, gap2
integer :: number

! values
number = 4
rough_opening = 36
encasing = 2.5
left_gap = .5
right_gap = .5
top_hinge = 52
bottom_hinge = 10
picket_width = 5.5
top_reveal = 6.75
middle2 = 48.875
bot_reveal = 1.5
height = 62
height3 = 53.5

number = 4

! calculations
fin_opening = rough_opening - encasing
spar = fin_opening - left_gap - right_gap
middle = (top_hinge + bottom_hinge) / 2.0_sp
gap = (spar - (number*picket_width))/(number-1)
gap2 = (spar - (picket_width*(number-1))-(gap*(number-2)))/2.0
check = (number-2)*gap + (number-1)*picket_width + 2.0 * gap2
calc = height - top_reveal - bot_reveal - middle2
height2 = top_reveal + middle2 + calc

! output
print *, "rough opening is ", rough_opening
print *, "encasing is ", encasing
print *, "finished opening is ", fin_opening
print *, "left_gap is ", left_gap
print *, "right_gap is ", right_gap
print *, "spar is ", spar
print *, "middle is ", middle
print *, "gap is ", gap
print *, "calc is ", calc
print *, "height2 is ", height2
print *, "height3 is ", height3
endprogram

! gfortran -Wall -Wextra judy3.f90 -o out.exe
$

I've got a variety of questions, so I'll just begin shotgun style:

q1) I called the horizontal framing members "spars" like the framing
elements that jut out normally from a mast. Is there a better word for
that?

q2) The lumber I bought was cedar. It was wet and it *punished* me by
bowing crazy. How should I have treated these materials so that I
didn't get stung like that?

Is it the idea with cedar that they do less kilning and that's wehy it's
so frickin cheap?

q3) The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. Why,
and what do I do about it?

Thanks for your comment, and cheers,
--
Uno

On Jun 7, 9:45*pm, Uno wrote:

I just put the gate together...
q1) *I called the horizontal framing members "spars" like the framing
elements that jut out normally from a mast. *Is there a better word for
that?

In a panel door, the horizontals are 'rails' and the verticals are
'stiles'.

q2) *The lumber I bought was cedar. *It was wet and it *punished* me by
bowing crazy. *How should I have treated these materials so that I
didn't get stung like that?

If you want something done right... you have to dry the cedar
yourself. The extra expense of storing and drying fence boards that
will face the weather is not usually borne by the board supplier.
Framing lumber usually IS fully dry as bought.

q3) *The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. *Why,
and what do I do about it?

Metal fastened to wood is infamous for squeaking; there's probably a
hinge plate
that twists as the door opens, and you're hearing the metal/wood
interface
rubbing. Something wasn't accurately aligned, and perhaps the hinges
aren't on the same exact vertical axis?

whit3rd wrote:
On Jun 7, 9:45 pm, Uno wrote:

I just put the gate together...
q1) I called the horizontal framing members "spars" like the framing
elements that jut out normally from a mast. Is there a better word for
that?

In a panel door, the horizontals are 'rails' and the verticals are
'stiles'.

Ok.

q2) The lumber I bought was cedar. It was wet and it *punished* me by
bowing crazy. How should I have treated these materials so that I
didn't get stung like that?

If you want something done right... you have to dry the cedar
yourself. The extra expense of storing and drying fence boards that
will face the weather is not usually borne by the board supplier.
Framing lumber usually IS fully dry as bought.

Ok.

q3) The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. Why,
and what do I do about it?

Metal fastened to wood is infamous for squeaking; there's probably a
hinge plate
that twists as the door opens, and you're hearing the metal/wood
interface
rubbing. Something wasn't accurately aligned, and perhaps the hinges
aren't on the same exact vertical axis?

I took great pains to believe that everything was normal, but I've got a
squeak. My method was as follows.

The cinder block to which I attached was plumb. The wood encasing that
I attached to the cinder block was plumb, with respect to a plane 90 dg
transformed.

I prefabed the gate door on a planar surface, with the rails drawn
correctly below the wonky cedar.

I fought with the cedar for 2 weeks as I sealed it and needed to toss
lumber that did not want to plane.

As the rails were *close* to parallel, I attached the hinges to the
rails at their midsection.

The hinges that connect the rails to the encasing were lined up with the
edge of the encasing that is plumb in 2 directions.

So, tja, any ideas?
--
Uno

On Jun 8, 1:11*am, Uno wrote:
whit3rd wrote:


q3) *The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. *Why,
and what do I do about it?

Metal fastened to wood is infamous for squeaking; there's probably a
hinge plate
that twists as the door opens, and you're hearing the metal/wood
interface
rubbing. * Something wasn't accurately aligned, and perhaps the hinges
aren't on the same exact vertical axis?

I took great pains to believe that everything was normal, but I've got a
squeak. ...
The hinges that connect the rails to the encasing were lined up with the
edge of the encasing that is plumb in 2 directions.

It sounds like the hinge pins are both vertical, but they also have to
be collinear (same line) as well as parallel. After careful
examination, you
can remove a hinge and trim or shim under it to get a minor
adjustment.
The old trick is to heat the hinge red hot and clamp it in place, so
it
chars a socket for itself; the gate will bend before that hinge
squeaks.
Pintle-type hinges are self-adjusting, are commonly used for gates.

On Jun 8, 4:11*am, Uno wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
On Jun 7, 9:45 pm, Uno wrote:

I just put the gate together...
q1) *I called the horizontal framing members "spars" like the framing
elements that jut out normally from a mast. *Is there a better word for
that?

In a panel door, the horizontals are 'rails' and the verticals are
'stiles'.

Ok.



q2) *The lumber I bought was cedar. *It was wet and it *punished* me by
bowing crazy. *How should I have treated these materials so that I
didn't get stung like that?

If you want something done right... you have to dry the cedar
yourself. *The extra expense of storing and drying fence boards that
will face the weather is not usually borne by the board supplier.
Framing lumber usually IS fully dry as bought.

Ok.



q3) *The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. *Why,
and what do I do about it?

Metal fastened to wood is infamous for squeaking; there's probably a
hinge plate
that twists as the door opens, and you're hearing the metal/wood
interface
rubbing. * Something wasn't accurately aligned, and perhaps the hinges
aren't on the same exact vertical axis?

I took great pains to believe that everything was normal, but I've got a
squeak. *My method was as follows.

The cinder block to which I attached was plumb. *The wood encasing that
I attached to the cinder block was plumb, with respect to a plane 90 dg
transformed.

I prefabed the gate door on a planar surface, with the rails drawn
correctly below the wonky cedar.

I fought with the cedar for 2 weeks as I sealed it and needed to toss
lumber that did not want to plane.

As the rails were *close* to parallel, I attached the hinges to the
rails at their midsection.

The hinges that connect the rails to the encasing were lined up with the
edge of the encasing that is plumb in 2 directions.

So, tja, any ideas?
--
Uno

It's a gate. If it looks good from 10' away and all the hardware works
and attaches itself with a mild swing in without wrestling it, you're
good to go. Oil the hinge and walk away.

RP

On 6/8/2010 12:12 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Jun 8, 1:11 am, wrote:
whit3rd wrote:


q3) The bottom hinge squeaks for about 20 degrees of rotation. Why,
and what do I do about it?

Metal fastened to wood is infamous for squeaking; there's probably a
hinge plate
that twists as the door opens, and you're hearing the metal/wood
interface
rubbing. Something wasn't accurately aligned, and perhaps the hinges
aren't on the same exact vertical axis?

I took great pains to believe that everything was normal, but I've got a
squeak. ...
The hinges that connect the rails to the encasing were lined up with the
edge of the encasing that is plumb in 2 directions.

It sounds like the hinge pins are both vertical, but they also have to
be collinear (same line) as well as parallel. After careful
examination, you
can remove a hinge and trim or shim under it to get a minor
adjustment.
The old trick is to heat the hinge red hot and clamp it in place, so
it
chars a socket for itself; the gate will bend before that hinge
squeaks.
Pintle-type hinges are self-adjusting, are commonly used for gates.

Thanks for your comment. It went away before I could address it. I
knew the install was good.

Wouldn't know what a pintle were.

Cheers,
--
Uno

On 6/8/2010 3:20 PM, RP wrote:
It's a gate. If it looks good from 10' away and all the hardware works
and attaches itself with a mild swing in without wrestling it, you're
good to go. Oil the hinge and walk away.

RP

Right.
--
Uno