I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with two
55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

Max

On 04/01/2010 01:39 PM, Max wrote:
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with two
55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

What's keeping you from buying it with the 55" guide and then getting a
second 55" rail and rail connector separately?

McFeeley's has an interesting note about the TS75. Apparently they
recommend the 118" guide rail for ripping sheet goods because two 55"
rails connected together mean that you need to plunge into the workpiece
rather than being able to start off the end.

I suspect the same would hold true for using the 55" for crosscutting a
48" panel...which is probably why they want to sell you the 75" rail.

Chris

On Apr 1, 3:39*pm, "Max" wrote:
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with two
55" guides. *Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. *But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

Max

Hey Max,
At about the time I bought my 75, Festool allowed their dealers the
option of upgrading the supplied rail with a longer rail ( and the
customer paying the difference). I declined because I would use the
rail from my MFT witht the supplied rail to cut 8 foot sheets but I do
agree with Chris' comments from Mcfeely's; it is a lot easier to
plunge prior to the cut than into the board itself.
I don't know if that offer is current but I would check with Festool
themselves. It seems that if they have a special their dealers would
abide by that even if they are unaware (as my delear was) when it was
running.
One other thing; Are all Festool dealers offering 10% off saws and
blades or just Woodcraft?


Marc

On 4/1/2010 2:39 PM, Max wrote:
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with
two 55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is
way more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

If you are going to use the tool with sheetgood's in mind, the 75" and
55" are an ideal combination, for the reason in Chris' post.

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide rail
when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the plunge is
made before the blade engages the stock.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2010 2:39 PM, Max wrote:
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with
two 55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is
way more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

If you are going to use the tool with sheetgood's in mind, the 75" and 55"
are an ideal combination, for the reason in Chris' post.

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide rail
when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the plunge is made
before the blade engages the stock.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)



So, if I understand you correctly, for the system to work properly, I need a
guide that will give me more length than 110" to properly use it to cut a
96" long panel.

Max

On 4/1/2010 5:28 PM, Max wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message


If you are going to use the tool with sheetgood's in mind, the 75" and
55" are an ideal combination, for the reason in Chris' post.

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide
rail when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the
plunge is made before the blade engages the stock.


So, if I understand you correctly, for the system to work properly, I
need a guide that will give me more length than 110" to properly use it
to cut a 96" long panel.

Not what I said ... if your depth of cut is such that a 9" overhang is
sufficient to fully plunge before pushing the blade into the stock,
fine. If not, you will want to put a "stop" on the guide rail, a ten
second operation.

These are PLUNGE saws ... you are plunging a spinning blade into a
stationary object ... common sense dictates that you do that in a
reasonable and safe manner by using a "stop" on the guide rail to keep
the saw from kicking back toward you.

Once again whatever kind of deal you make, you want to end up with a
minimum of one 75", and one 55".

Go ahead, ignore this advice, but trust me, if you don't do it upfront,
and you are going to use the tool for what it excels at, cutting sheet
goods, you eventually will.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

If you are going to use the tool with sheetgood's in mind, the 75" and
55" are an ideal combination, for the reason in Chris' post.

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide
rail when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the
plunge is made before the blade engages the stock.

Go ahead, ignore this advice, but trust me, if you don't do it upfront,
and you are going to use the tool for what it excels at, cutting sheet
goods, you eventually will.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


I'm not about to ignore your advice as an experienced user but I think I may
be missing something.
Let me describe my present operation.
I have a guide that's 108" long. I use a left blade saw. The shoe/foot of
the saw goes against the guide and on *top* of a 1/2" piece of BB Ply. (The
portion of the shoe that runs *on* the plywood is 4-9/16" wide)
Here's the set-up:
http://picasaweb.google.com/contrari...24085940802930
I place the saw on the guide with the blade about 1" from the piece I'm
about to cut, "pull the trigger" and proceed thru the sheet of plywood and
have about 6 inches or so of guide left at the end. The blade doesn't
completely clear the end of the plywood but I "rock" the saw against the
heel of the shoe and clear the cut, wait for the blade to stop spinning and
I've completed my cut. What I'm not clear about is why I need 130" of
guide. Having said that, I'll go with your advice and get the TS75 with the
75" guide and also order a 55" with connectors.

Max (in appreciation for your patience) {:-)

On 4/1/2010 7:05 PM, Max wrote:

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide
rail when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the
plunge is made before the blade engages the stock.

Max (in appreciation for your patience) {:-)

Well, I think this has somehow gotten blown out of proportion with
regard to the real world.

If you put a stop on one end of the guide rail and just leave it there,
it becomes a moot point and you can indeed use two 55" guide rails to
cut a full sheet easily.

My personal preference is to not keep a stop on all the time and the
only way to get away with that, with full regard for safety, is to let a
bit of the guide rail hang over the workpiece and plunge the saw before
moving it forward.

In practice I don't think you will have a problem doing it either way.

It is really not a problem to leave the stop on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote

Well, I think this has somehow gotten blown out of proportion with regard
to the real world.

If you put a stop on one end of the guide rail and just leave it there, it
becomes a moot point and you can indeed use two 55" guide rails to cut a
full sheet easily.

My personal preference is to not keep a stop on all the time and the only
way to get away with that, with full regard for safety, is to let a bit of
the guide rail hang over the workpiece and plunge the saw before moving it
forward.

In practice I don't think you will have a problem doing it either way.

It is really not a problem to leave the stop on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Many thanks, Karl.
The 55" vs 75" is a moot point anyway because I want the TS75 and it comes
with the 75".

Max

On 4/1/2010 7:36 PM, Max wrote:
"Swingman" wrote

Well, I think this has somehow gotten blown out of proportion with
regard to the real world.

If you put a stop on one end of the guide rail and just leave it
there, it becomes a moot point and you can indeed use two 55" guide
rails to cut a full sheet easily.

My personal preference is to not keep a stop on all the time and the
only way to get away with that, with full regard for safety, is to let
a bit of the guide rail hang over the workpiece and plunge the saw
before moving it forward.

In practice I don't think you will have a problem doing it either way.

It is really not a problem to leave the stop on.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Many thanks, Karl.
The 55" vs 75" is a moot point anyway because I want the TS75 and it
comes with the 75".

Yep, that was my plan ... just talking about it makes me want to go out
and find something to play with it on ... and it's not like I haven't
already used the hell out of it almost daily since I got it.

Further clarification on the stop issue, if you'll notice on the
multitude of videos on youtube and Rockler, etc, on almost all the full
length "rip" type cuts you can see a stop being used; on almost all the
shorter crosscuts, like cutting the bottom off a door, you almost always
see the saw used without a stop.

BTW, did you see the link I posted last night? It says it all:

http://www.tracksaw.com/?ref=fog

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote


Yep, that was my plan ... just talking about it makes me want to go out
and find something to play with it on ... and it's not like I haven't
already used the hell out of it almost daily since I got it.

Further clarification on the stop issue, if you'll notice on the multitude
of videos on youtube and Rockler, etc, on almost all the full length "rip"
type cuts you can see a stop being used; on almost all the shorter
crosscuts, like cutting the bottom off a door, you almost always see the
saw used without a stop.

BTW, did you see the link I posted last night? It says it all:

http://www.tracksaw.com/?ref=fog

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I *saw* that. But I didn't really pay that much attention to the "stop".
I always set my depth of cut to accommodate the material anyway.
Now I'm beginning to think "beyond" the saw.
I retired as Fire Chief when I was 54. I started a business doing insurance
inspections and recently turned it over to my son.
But when I get the urge to splurge I do a few of those inspections.
The CFO here lets me spend that money any way I want.
I can see it now................inspect, buy a Festool vac. Inspect, buy a
Festool tool.
Damn!! What have I gotten into...............

Max

On 4/1/2010 8:23 PM, Max wrote:
"Swingman" wrote


BTW, did you see the link I posted last night? It says it all:

http://www.tracksaw.com/?ref=fog

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I *saw* that. But I didn't really pay that much attention to the "stop".
I always set my depth of cut to accommodate the material anyway.

You will love the ease of setting 'depth of cut' ... a piece of cake
after years of struggling with setting 'depth of cut' with the usual
circular saw.

Even though the scale increments are in millimeters, don't even pay
attention to that ... simply put the saw and guide overhanging slightly
the edge of the piece on a table/bench top, plunge the saw down to the
table surface, set the the depth stop with the other hand, release and
add 1 mm to the scale ... you will therefore cut a slight, 1mm groove
into your "throw-away" table/bench top, in less time than it takes to tell.

Now I'm beginning to think "beyond" the saw.
I retired as Fire Chief when I was 54. I started a business doing
insurance inspections and recently turned it over to my son.
But when I get the urge to splurge I do a few of those inspections.
The CFO here lets me spend that money any way I want.
I can see it now................inspect, buy a Festool vac. Inspect, buy
a Festool tool.
Damn!! What have I gotten into...............

LOL ... it is a slippery slope, but one you love sliding down. Leon and
I met an older retired guy at Rockler one day who professed to having
one of every Festool tool made, and probably every accessory to go with
each tool.

That's what I like about Festool ... full of products that you can use
to scratch a couple of itches: tool collector who simple appreciates
well engineered tools, or making a living with a tool that allows you to
do the best work you can, in the shop, or on the job site.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 01 Apr 2010 18:02:11 -0500, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 4/1/2010 5:28 PM, Max wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message


If you are going to use the tool with sheetgood's in mind, the 75" and
55" are an ideal combination, for the reason in Chris' post.

Plus it keeps you from needing to install a rear stop on the guide
rail when making the initial plunge ... a step not needed if the
plunge is made before the blade engages the stock.


So, if I understand you correctly, for the system to work properly, I
need a guide that will give me more length than 110" to properly use it
to cut a 96" long panel.

Not what I said ... if your depth of cut is such that a 9" overhang is
sufficient to fully plunge before pushing the blade into the stock,
fine. If not, you will want to put a "stop" on the guide rail, a ten
second operation.

These are PLUNGE saws ... you are plunging a spinning blade into a
stationary object ... common sense dictates that you do that in a
reasonable and safe manner by using a "stop" on the guide rail to keep
the saw from kicking back toward you.

Once again whatever kind of deal you make, you want to end up with a
minimum of one 75", and one 55".

Go ahead, ignore this advice, but trust me, if you don't do it upfront,
and you are going to use the tool for what it excels at, cutting sheet
goods, you eventually will.

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
el...
On 04/01/2010 01:39 PM, Max wrote:
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with
two
55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

What's keeping you from buying it with the 55" guide and then getting a
second 55" rail and rail connector separately?

McFeeley's has an interesting note about the TS75. Apparently they
recommend the 118" guide rail for ripping sheet goods because two 55"
rails connected together mean that you need to plunge into the workpiece
rather than being able to start off the end.

Lets see here, 2, 55" rails = 110". Sheeeto of plywood 96"- 110" =14".. I
dont think you will have to plunge cut using 2 55" rails. Cutting from
corner to corner to corner you need 107", maybe a little plunging needed but
then the saw was made to plunge..





I suspect the same would hold true for using the 55" for crosscutting a
48" panel...which is probably why they want to sell you the 75" rail.

Good point considering your comment above but I would assume the 55" which
comes with the smaller TS 55 saw may not need to be as long to not require
plunging.

"Max" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with
two 55" guides. Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

Max


Look at it this way. With the 75" guide it will only over hang 13.5" on
both sides if making a 90 degree cut. if you make an angle cut you will
need more guide on the table. It would not concern me in the slightest. I
would rather be a little long than short.

On Apr 2, 10:51*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Max" wrote in message

...

I'm trying to buy a Festool TS75 *without* the 75 inch guide *but* with
two 55" guides. *Seems they don't sell it thataway.
If I use the 75" plus a 55" connected I get a 130 inch guide which is way
more than I want. *But I want the 55" for cross cutting a 4X8 panel.

What kinda deal is that!!!

Max

Look at it this way. *With the 75" guide it will only over hang 13.5" on
both sides if making a 90 degree cut. *if you make an angle cut you will
need more guide on the table. *It would not concern me in the slightest.. *I
would rather be a little long than short.

I can't imagine a 75" guide being any more difficult (knocking over
beer) to handle than a 55". So for me, a long one ( 105?) and a 75
would be perfect.

On Thu, 01 Apr 2010 20:39:17 -0500, the infamous Swingman
scrawled the following:

On 4/1/2010 8:23 PM, Max wrote:
"Swingman" wrote


BTW, did you see the link I posted last night? It says it all:

http://www.tracksaw.com/?ref=fog

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I *saw* that. But I didn't really pay that much attention to the "stop".
I always set my depth of cut to accommodate the material anyway.

You will love the ease of setting 'depth of cut' ... a piece of cake
after years of struggling with setting 'depth of cut' with the usual
circular saw.

Even though the scale increments are in millimeters, don't even pay
attention to that ... simply put the saw and guide overhanging slightly
the edge of the piece on a table/bench top, plunge the saw down to the
table surface, set the the depth stop with the other hand, release and
add 1 mm to the scale ... you will therefore cut a slight, 1mm groove
into your "throw-away" table/bench top, in less time than it takes to tell.

Now I'm beginning to think "beyond" the saw.
I retired as Fire Chief when I was 54. I started a business doing
insurance inspections and recently turned it over to my son.
But when I get the urge to splurge I do a few of those inspections.
The CFO here lets me spend that money any way I want.
I can see it now................inspect, buy a Festool vac. Inspect, buy
a Festool tool.
Damn!! What have I gotten into...............

LOL ... it is a slippery slope, but one you love sliding down. Leon and
I met an older retired guy at Rockler one day who professed to having
one of every Festool tool made, and probably every accessory to go with
each tool.

That's what I like about Festool ... full of products that you can use
to scratch a couple of itches: tool collector who simple appreciates
well engineered tools, or making a living with a tool that allows you to
do the best work you can, in the shop, or on the job site.

Stop it, ya bloody PUSHER! scritch, scritch, scritch

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

"LDosser" wrote in message
...
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Would you use a good wood cutting blade to cut aluminum? Some are designed
to rip, crosscut, general combo blades, etc., the blade that comes with it
will take care of 99% of your neeeds if only cutting wood.

On Apr 3, 12:21*am, "LDosser" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message

...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
..
..
..
:-)

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 12:21 am, "LDosser" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message

...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
..
How much for the granite blades?

On Apr 3, 1:45*pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 12:21 am, "LDosser" wrote:





"Swingman" wrote in message

m...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
.
How much for the granite blades?


Those tend to break easily when they're being mounted on the saw. They
never really caught on, most people prefer blades made from some kind
of metal.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 1:45 pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 12:21 am, "LDosser" wrote:





"Swingman" wrote in message

m...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
.
How much for the granite blades?


Those tend to break easily when they're being mounted on the saw. They
never really caught on, most people prefer blades made from some kind
of metal.

Uh.......do they have blades for cutting granite? {:-)

Max (working on kitchen cabinets)

On Apr 3, 4:40*pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 1:45 pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:





"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 12:21 am, "LDosser" wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message

m...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
.
How much for the granite blades?
Those tend to break easily when they're being mounted on the saw. They
never really caught on, most people prefer blades made from some kind
of metal.

Uh.......do they have blades for cutting granite? *{:-)

Max (working on kitchen cabinets)

Max? Really? Okay... I forgot the goofy smirkicon.

Yes they do. Many diamond blades, dry (I dunno about wet & T75) can be
had at 8.25 diam with any bore you like.
I use a very old, but flawless Milwaukee sidewinder with a Bosch
diamond blade and I cut quartz (even) like it it is stubborn hardwood.
NOT in the customers' home. It makes clouds of dust.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"LDosser" wrote in message
...
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Would you use a good wood cutting blade to cut aluminum? Some are
designed to rip, crosscut, general combo blades, etc., the blade that
comes with it will take care of 99% of your neeeds if only cutting wood.


Do you have to buy Festool blades?

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 4:40 pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 1:45 pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:





"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Apr 3, 12:21 am, "LDosser" wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in message

m...

On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool
plunge
saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to
have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Are you asking if the 5-for-a-dollar Oldham Destructo blades will
work?
.
How much for the granite blades?
Those tend to break easily when they're being mounted on the saw. They
never really caught on, most people prefer blades made from some kind
of metal.

Uh.......do they have blades for cutting granite? {:-)

Max (working on kitchen cabinets)

Max? Really? Okay... I forgot the goofy smirkicon.

Yes they do. Many diamond blades, dry (I dunno about wet & T75) can be
had at 8.25 diam with any bore you like.
I use a very old, but flawless Milwaukee sidewinder with a Bosch
diamond blade and I cut quartz (even) like it it is stubborn hardwood.
NOT in the customers' home. It makes clouds of dust.

I'm just finishing up the base cabinets for the "sink" side of the kitchen
and I'm discussing countertop material with SWMBO.
*I'm* inclined toward tile. We've had this for almost 24 years and there are
*no* chips anywhere.
http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/Tile#

But the "Boss" may have different ideas.

Max

On Apr 3, 5:57*pm, "LDosser" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...







"LDosser" wrote in message
...
"Swingman" wrote in message
om...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek",
but could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Would you use a good wood cutting blade to cut aluminum? *Some are
designed to rip, crosscut, general combo blades, etc., *the blade that
comes with it will take care of 99% of your neeeds if only cutting wood..

Do you have to buy Festool blades?

You WANT to buy Festool blades. None equal the quality and precision.
They are competitive in price with blades of similar quality.... and
no, not those you buy at HD.
..
..
..
Dammit, you cheap mofo's... it is a system. So if you want to deliver
an excellent product, you pay a smidge more up front, but the payback
at the other end makes it all worth while.

North Americans are so used to being scammed that they seem to have
lost all trust in those companies who DO work harder at delivering an
honest, reliable and hard-working product. Case-in-point: IF you were
to be displeased with a Festool purchase, you either a) don't know how
to use it, or b) something is wrong, which they WILL set right. Or
your money back. This is hard?
..
..
..
Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

"Robatoy" wrote
..
..
..
Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

On Fri, 2 Apr 2010 21:21:23 -0700, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"Swingman" wrote in message
m...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge saw
being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like "ChoiceDek", but
could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

6-1/2" (160mm) with 1" arbor hole. ~$20-40 a pop, not bad. Tenryu and
Oshlun seem to be the brands.

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent,
but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

On Apr 3, 6:45*pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

On Apr 3, 8:05*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 3, 6:45*pm, "Max" wrote:

"Robatoy" wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? *LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

Did I mention that after 2002 (and some '03's) they abandoned the V-6
bi-turbo concept an started doing things the American way...like
dropping in big 4.2 litre V-8's? Me... I like 2 banks of 3 with their
own turbeenes.

"Robatoy" wrote

Me... I like 2 banks of 3 with their
own turbeenes.

Like the 2010 Ford Taurus?
Did I just say that?

Max

On Apr 3, 11:13*pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Me... I like 2 banks of 3 with their
own turbeenes.

Like the 2010 Ford Taurus?
Did I just say that?

Max

There is nothing wrong with that. "The SHO is powered by Ford's new
EcoBoost 3.5L V6 engine. The twin-turbocharged, gasoline direct
injection power plant has 365 horsepower and 350 lb-ft of torque."
REEEEspectable indeed. Besides, that thing handles admirably.
That is as competent a car as the Hyundai Genesis. Now did *I* just
say that????

Still... both Ford and Hyundai need to learn a few things about style,
fit and finish, and 'feel'....and 'smell'.
There really isn't much that messes with an S4 Audi for the money.

On Apr 3, 11:34*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Apr 3, 11:13*pm, "Max" wrote:

"Robatoy" wrote

Me... I like 2 banks of 3 with their
own turbeenes.

Like the 2010 Ford Taurus?
Did I just say that?

Max

There is nothing wrong with that. "The SHO is powered by Ford's new
EcoBoost 3.5L V6 engine. The twin-turbocharged, gasoline direct
injection power plant has 365 horsepower and 350 lb-ft of torque."
REEEEspectable indeed. Besides, that thing handles admirably.
That is as competent a car as the Hyundai Genesis. Now did *I* just
say that????

Still... both Ford and Hyundai need to learn a few things about style,
fit and finish, and 'feel'....and 'smell'.
There really isn't much that messes with an S4 Audi for the money.

To me, biggest bang for the buck still lies with Audi and Subaru... IF
you like to drive.

"LDosser" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
...

"LDosser" wrote in message
...
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2010 11:37 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Have you tried it at trimming tubasix (or composite) deck ends
straight?

Not personally ... but in a video there is a shot of a Festool plunge
saw being used to trim composite decking ... it looked like
"ChoiceDek", but could have been Trex.

That would be a function of the blade, and Festool has appears to have
blades for most any material, from wood to metal.

Hold on a sec! Do you have to buy Special blades?

Would you use a good wood cutting blade to cut aluminum? Some are
designed to rip, crosscut, general combo blades, etc., the blade that
comes with it will take care of 99% of your neeeds if only cutting wood.


Do you have to buy Festool blades?

IIRC Forrest makes blades for some of the Festools saws. Either way the
Festool blades seem to be reasonably priced for the quality you are getting.
Keep in mind that "IMHO" $40 $70 for a blade is reasonable. You can find $5
blades for the common circular saw but you sacrifice cut quality when you
use those saws.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 6:45 pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

I had just written a comment about you and your Audi and decided that you
may have had the 1 in 1,000,000,000,000 which gave reliable and inexpensive
service. Then I read this comment and deleted my comment. ;~) Had 2 VW's
with Audi parts all over them... Probably the most unreliable and most
expensive to maintain vehicles my wife and I have ever owned. Cool cars
though, when they were not in the shop.

On 4/5/2010 7:33 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 6:45 pm, wrote:
wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

I had just written a comment about you and your Audi and decided that you
may have had the 1 in 1,000,000,000,000 which gave reliable and inexpensive
service. Then I read this comment and deleted my comment. ;~) Had 2 VW's
with Audi parts all over them... Probably the most unreliable and most
expensive to maintain vehicles my wife and I have ever owned. Cool cars
though, when they were not in the shop.

I'm waiting for the Festool truck ... with 6' bed that pulls out to 8',
built-in dust extractor, MFT, and fPadPhonePod.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 4/5/2010 7:33 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 6:45 pm, wrote:
wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

I had just written a comment about you and your Audi and decided that you
may have had the 1 in 1,000,000,000,000 which gave reliable and
inexpensive
service. Then I read this comment and deleted my comment. ;~) Had 2
VW's
with Audi parts all over them... Probably the most unreliable and most
expensive to maintain vehicles my wife and I have ever owned. Cool cars
though, when they were not in the shop.

I'm waiting for the Festool truck ... with 6' bed that pulls out to 8',
built-in dust extractor, MFT, and fPadPhonePod.

I'll wait for the 10% off $128,000.00... ;~)

On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 07:33:05 -0500, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 6:45 pm, "Max" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote
.
.
.

Many years ago, Dick Cavett had the CEO of GM on his show, and Dick
asked him if GM could make a car like a Mercedes Benz. The answer was:
"Yes we can, but we'd have to charge the same money as a Mercedes
Benz." (Now, please, don't get into my face about MB not being all
that great... there was a time when they were, but nowadays, meh,
they're just another car company, unlike Audi...*G*.)

For the price they audi be good.

Max

Did you really just say that? Huh? Huh? LOL

Buying them is not too too bad, making them run like a bunny and
keeping them running like a bunny costs lots. LOTS.

You'd think they were designed and built by a Brit, maybe Lucas, eh?


I had just written a comment about you and your Audi and decided that you
may have had the 1 in 1,000,000,000,000 which gave reliable and inexpensive
service. Then I read this comment and deleted my comment. ;~) Had 2 VW's
with Audi parts all over them... Probably the most unreliable and most
expensive to maintain vehicles my wife and I have ever owned. Cool cars
though, when they were not in the shop.

VWs have never darkened my driveway, literally or otherwise.

--
In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are
needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And
they must have a sense of success in it.
-- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850