I don't get much in the way of woodworking gloat opportunities around
here. The Craigslist deals are so rare as to be nonexistent, and we
have no woodworking supply stores (or hell, even very many
lumberyards) outside of the larger hardware stores, and I don't have
the ability to hit up estate sales or anything right now.

So when I saw that Home Depot had their Ridgid R4511 table saws on
sale for $299, I had to jump. The table saw my dad had given me, a
nearly 40 year old 9" contractor style saw (with a table mounted
motor), stopped turning on right after I was done making Christmas
gifts last year, so the timing was ideal.

It's going to be an interesting adjustment, I think. In the past I had
to hunt around for 8 1/2" Hitachi blades because I didn't want to pay
a ton of money for the 9" blades, and the motor wasn't really up to
the task of running the 8" dado set I bought a couple of years ago.

But I think buying a saw that was $600 a year ago for $299 isn't too
shabby.

-Nathan

"N Hurst" wrote in message
But I think buying a saw that was $600 a year ago for $299 isn't too
shabby.


Good deal. You'll enjoy it.

On Jan 13, 11:31*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"N Hurst" wrote in message
But I think buying a saw that was $600 a year ago for $299 isn't too
shabby.

Good deal. *You'll enjoy it.


Well, I had to take the saw back today.

When I went to unpack it last week, the table top was broken, almost
perfectly 1/4 of the top was busted. All the way in to the insert, and
about halfway down the side.

When I took the top off to assess other damage, the front trunnion was
snapped clean in half, and the carriage assembly was completely
collapsed down inside the cabinet.

There were no other saws in the region, and the nearest Ridgid service
center is 2.5 hours away, with no weekend or evening hours.

All of the staff at the store were commiserating with me at the loss
of such a good deal.

I'm hoping Ridgid comes out with their new saw quickly, as I don't
live in a strong woodworking area, and Home Depot is the only store
that carries decent equipment now that Lowes has stopped carrying
Delta.

Otherwise, I'll be saving my pennies for a Grizzly 1023.

Now you just need a $100 Forrest blade and $150 Incra miter guage and
you are almost there. ;^)

Great deal, congrats.

On Jan 13, 6:26*am, N Hurst wrote:
I don't get much in the way of woodworking gloat opportunities around
here. The Craigslist deals are so rare as to be nonexistent, and we
have no woodworking supply stores (or hell, even very many
lumberyards) outside of the larger hardware stores, and I don't have
the ability to hit up estate sales or anything right now.

So when I saw that Home Depot had their Ridgid R4511 table saws on
sale for $299, I had to jump. The table saw my dad had given me, a
nearly 40 year old 9" contractor style saw (with a table mounted
motor), stopped turning on right after I was done making Christmas
gifts last year, so the timing was ideal.

It's going to be an interesting adjustment, I think. In the past I had
to hunt around for 8 1/2" Hitachi blades because I didn't want to pay
a ton of money for the 9" blades, and the motor wasn't really up to
the task of running the 8" dado set I bought a couple of years ago.

But I think buying a saw that was $600 a year ago for $299 isn't too
shabby.

-Nathan

"N Hurst" wrote in message
...
I don't get much in the way of woodworking gloat opportunities around
here. The Craigslist deals are so rare as to be nonexistent, and we
have no woodworking supply stores (or hell, even very many
lumberyards) outside of the larger hardware stores, and I don't have
the ability to hit up estate sales or anything right now.

So when I saw that Home Depot had their Ridgid R4511 table saws on
sale for $299, I had to jump. The table saw my dad had given me, a
nearly 40 year old 9" contractor style saw (with a table mounted
motor), stopped turning on right after I was done making Christmas
gifts last year, so the timing was ideal.

It's going to be an interesting adjustment, I think. In the past I had
to hunt around for 8 1/2" Hitachi blades because I didn't want to pay
a ton of money for the 9" blades, and the motor wasn't really up to
the task of running the 8" dado set I bought a couple of years ago.

But I think buying a saw that was $600 a year ago for $299 isn't too
shabby.

-Nathan

something you need to see:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/09...o-sets-flying/

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. With no atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. Heck, with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc

"Joe" wrote in message
...
To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this
for more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of
removing the air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to
pressurize the cup, shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner
through. With no atomizing air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no
muss, no fuss, just a thin stream of thinner from the tip that goes right
back into the mason jar. Heck, with this method, I run the same thinner
through a couple of times before one final rinse with fresh stuff and the
gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc



Wow, and to think all this started because I mis-posted a tip under an
existing thread instead of a thread by itself

:-)

I'm gonna go watch some football.

spraying into a rag is not a good idea because one would have to hold the
rag
thus allowing the appropriate thinner to come in contact with ones skin and
hand.This would
run the risk of injecting said thinner into ones body.Airless spray people
know this is a quick trip to the hospital
and runs the risk amputation.
wrote in message
...
On Fri, 05 Feb 2010 15:02:09 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this
for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing
the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. With no
atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin
stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. Heck,
with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc


Spraying into a bunched up rag works pretty well.

On Feb 5, 2:07*pm, "Roemax" wrote:
spraying into a rag is not a good idea because one would have to hold the
rag
thus allowing the appropriate thinner to come in contact with ones skin and
hand.This would
run the risk of injecting said thinner into ones body.Airless spray people
know this is a quick trip to the hospital
and runs the risk wrote in message

...



On Fri, 05 Feb 2010 15:02:09 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. *After doing this
for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing
the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. *With no
atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin
stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. *Heck,
with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc

Spraying *into a bunched up rag works pretty well.

Anybody who would point an airless at a rag in their hands deserves to
go to the hospital, locked up and kept there.

On Feb 5, 3:34*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 11:34:36 -0800 (PST), Robatoy





wrote:
On Feb 5, 2:07 pm, "Roemax" wrote:
spraying into a rag is not a good idea because one would have to hold the
rag
thus allowing the appropriate thinner to come in contact with ones skin and
hand.This would
run the risk of injecting said thinner into ones body.Airless spray people
know this is a quick trip to the hospital
and runs the risk wrote in message

. ..

On Fri, 05 Feb 2010 15:02:09 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this
for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing
the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. With no
atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin
stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. Heck,
with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result..

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc

Spraying into a bunched up rag works pretty well.

Anybody who would point an airless at a rag in their hands deserves to
go to the hospital, locked up and kept there.

It would be nice if you read what I said before posting something as
stupid as what you just posted.

I was agreeing with Roemax, so why are you poking your snotty little
nose in?

On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 14:54:29 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Feb 5, 3:34*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 11:34:36 -0800 (PST), Robatoy





wrote:
On Feb 5, 2:07 pm, "Roemax" wrote:
spraying into a rag is not a good idea because one would have to hold the
rag
thus allowing the appropriate thinner to come in contact with ones skin and
hand.This would
run the risk of injecting said thinner into ones body.Airless spray people
know this is a quick trip to the hospital
and runs the risk wrote in message

. ..

On Fri, 05 Feb 2010 15:02:09 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this
for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing
the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. With no
atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin
stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. Heck,
with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc

Spraying into a bunched up rag works pretty well.

Anybody who would point an airless at a rag in their hands deserves to
go to the hospital, locked up and kept there.

It would be nice if you read what I said before posting something as
stupid as what you just posted.

I was agreeing with Roemax, so why are you poking your snotty little
nose in?

How many of the "stupid pills" did you take?

On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 14:07:02 -0500, "Roemax" wrote:

spraying into a rag is not a good idea because one would have to hold the
rag
thus allowing the appropriate thinner to come in contact with ones skin and
hand.This would
run the risk of injecting said thinner into ones body.Airless spray people
know this is a quick trip to the hospital
and runs the risk amputation.


HVLP, since you and Robotoy don't know, means
"High Volume - L O W P R E S S U R E"

And nobody, including me, suggested pointing anything into your hand.




wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 05 Feb 2010 15:02:09 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

To clean finish out of my hvlp sprayer, I follow the instructions of
"spraying the appropriate thinner" through the gun. What I didn't like is
the cloud of "appropriate thinner" that this produced. After doing this
for
more times than I care to admit to, I came up with the idea of removing
the
air horns, then turning the turbine on just enough to pressurize the cup,
shutting it off and *then* spraying the thinner through. With no
atomizing
air flow, there's no cloud of thinner, no muss, no fuss, just a thin
stream
of thinner from the tip that goes right back into the mason jar. Heck,
with
this method, I run the same thinner through a couple of times before one
final rinse with fresh stuff and the gun is much cleaner as a result.

Again, probably obvious for long-time sprayers (Robert ;-) ), but it just
dawned on me.

jc


Spraying into a bunched up rag works pretty well.

On Feb 5, 5:48*pm, wrote:


HVLP, since you and Robotoy don't know, means
"High Volume - L O W * P R E S S U R E"

No ****, dickwad?

On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 14:55:27 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Feb 5, 5:48*pm, wrote:


HVLP, since you and Robotoy don't know, means
"High Volume - L O W * P R E S S U R E"

No ****, dickwad?


No ****. Now you know.