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#1
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Need some real world advise on an issue:
No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#2
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
I don't work with very hard wood, but it sounds like it is slipping to me.
If it were dulling, then advancing the blade wouldn't help. -Jack "Alan W" wrote in message om... Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#3
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
i agree.
randy "Jack" wrote in message ... I don't work with very hard wood, but it sounds like it is slipping to me. If it were dulling, then advancing the blade wouldn't help. -Jack "Alan W" wrote in message om... Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#4
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
"Jack" wrote in message ...
I don't work with very hard wood, but it sounds like it is slipping to me. If it were dulling, then advancing the blade wouldn't help. I pulled the blade tonight and it will no longer shave arm hairs. Definely has dulled, but I will try again after I rehone the blade and when I advance it the second time I will remove the blade to test again. I also picked up a flat foot for the dial indicator to check blade position. Alan |
#5
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Alan W wrote:
I pulled the blade tonight and it will no longer shave arm hairs. Definely has dulled, but I will try again after I rehone the blade and when I advance it the second time I will remove the blade to test again. I also picked up a flat foot for the dial indicator to check blade position. Also check to make sure the frog is tightened down securely and not slipping. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply) |
#6
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Alan W schreef
I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. ==== I pulled the blade tonight and it will no longer shave arm hairs. Definitely has dulled, but I will try again after I rehone the blade and when I advance it the second time I will remove the blade to test again. + + + Yes, many hard woods (not "hardwoods") will dull an edge fairly quickly. Try wengé or panga panga and you will express stand time not in minutes, but in strokes. Advancing a blade will work because a plane will work reasonably well with even a somewhat dull edge. PvR |
#7
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
There's a simple check to see if your iron is extending past the sole, simply
flip your plane upside down and pass a small block of wood across the sole past the iron. You will be able to hear and feel exactly what portion of the blade is doing or not doing the cutting and have a relative sence of how much. If that's not it, closely inspect your work in case you're planing it away from instead of toward flat. After that I'd straight edge check the sole of your plane. David I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. |
#8
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Check that you have the blade in correctly...
Bob S. "Alan W" wrote in message om... Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#9
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
I've often experienced the plane sole heating up, and expanding a bit.
It either expands or warps enough to seem as though the blade has retracted a bit. Try just advancing the blade until you no longer get a decent cut. Also, make sure the sole is waxed and polished so it glides easily on the wood. Try not to push down too much, this will cut the friction too. You can see if your blade is really dull by holding it under a light and looking for sparkles on the edge. Point the iron right at your face (removed from the plane), with a light behind your head. Angle it around until you see the sparkles. To get an idea of how this works more easily, try it with a kitchen knife. If you don't see any sparkles, it's not dull. You might also try burnishing rather than honing. You're not leaving hunks of metal behind in the wood. You're just bending the edge. A burnishing will straighten it out. It works like a steel in the kitchen. -Mike (Alan W) wrote in message . com... Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#10
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Mike, that is a good suggestion!! Itsounds like his plane blade is dulling
quickly which means that the steel is soft. Burnishing will locally work harden the steel as well as restore the keen edge. The hardened edge should last longer if the assumptions are correct. Several iterations of burnishing and using it with maybe a light honing may restore the sharpness longivity he is looking for. If this doesn't work, and the blade steel still appears to be too soft, the only remaining answer is to get a replacement blade. "Mike Reed" wrote in message om... I've often experienced the plane sole heating up, and expanding a bit. It either expands or warps enough to seem as though the blade has retracted a bit. Try just advancing the blade until you no longer get a decent cut. Also, make sure the sole is waxed and polished so it glides easily on the wood. Try not to push down too much, this will cut the friction too. You can see if your blade is really dull by holding it under a light and looking for sparkles on the edge. Point the iron right at your face (removed from the plane), with a light behind your head. Angle it around until you see the sparkles. To get an idea of how this works more easily, try it with a kitchen knife. If you don't see any sparkles, it's not dull. You might also try burnishing rather than honing. You're not leaving hunks of metal behind in the wood. You're just bending the edge. A burnishing will straighten it out. It works like a steel in the kitchen. -Mike (Alan W) wrote in message . com... Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. The blade is dull already. I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. What's the wreck's consensus? |
#11
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
"Bruce C." wrote:
Mike, that is a good suggestion!! Itsounds like his plane blade is dulling quickly which means that the steel is soft. Burnishing will locally work harden the steel as well as restore the keen edge. The hardened edge should last longer if the assumptions are correct. Several iterations of burnishing and using it with maybe a light honing may restore the sharpness longivity he is looking for. If this doesn't work, and the blade steel still appears to be too soft, the only remaining answer is to get a replacement blade. Which makes me wonder what blade is in it now. I don't think this has been addressed as yet. Is this an old Stanley blade, one post '60s, or a new one from the local BORG? That alone may be the problem. You can't sharpen taffy. Dave in Fairfax -- reply-to doesn't work use: daveldr at att dot net American Association of Woodturners http://www.woodturner.org Capital Area Woodturners http://www.capwoodturners.org/ |
#12
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
On Thu, 18 Mar 2004 13:00:29 GMT, dave in fairfax
wrote: "Bruce C." wrote: Mike, that is a good suggestion!! Itsounds like his plane blade is dulling quickly which means that the steel is soft. Burnishing will locally work harden the steel as well as restore the keen edge. The hardened edge should last longer if the assumptions are correct. Several iterations of burnishing and using it with maybe a light honing may restore the sharpness longivity he is looking for. If this doesn't work, and the blade steel still appears to be too soft, the only remaining answer is to get a replacement blade. Which makes me wonder what blade is in it now. I don't think this has been addressed as yet. Is this an old Stanley blade, one post '60s, or a new one from the local BORG? That alone may be the problem. You can't sharpen taffy. Dave in Fairfax the handyman line wasn't stanley's finest... |
#13
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Bridger wrote:
the handyman line wasn't stanley's finest... OOOH Yeah! I know that Handyman was Stanley's finest hour. But that steel was better than the stuff they're putting out now or the stuff Buck sells. It just made me wonder what we're dealing withis all. Dave in Fairfax -- reply-to doesn't work use: daveldr at att dot net American Association of Woodturners http://www.woodturner.org Capital Area Woodturners http://www.capwoodturners.org/ |
#14
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
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#15
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Patrick Olguin schreef
Even these might not help all that much, seeing as you're using purpleheart. This wood is not only hard, it's full of silica [...] + + + Nope. It isn't. Not resistant to teredo either. PvR |
#16
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
PVR states:
Patrick Olguin schreef Even these might not help all that much, seeing as you're using purpleheart. This wood is not only hard, it's full of silica [...] + + + Nope. It isn't. Not resistant to teredo either According to William Lincoln, it exudes a gummy residue if heated by dull tools. Might be messy. I've always made sure tools for purpleheart are especially sharp. While teredo (shipworm) is not a particular problem outside oceans (docks, ships, boats, similar structures), powder post beetle can chew up the sapwood. Charlie Self "The function of posterity is to look after itself." Dylan Thomas |
#17
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Patrick Olguin schreef
Even these might not help all that much, seeing as you're using purpleheart. This wood is not only hard, it's full of silica [...] PvR states: Nope. It isn't. Not resistant to teredo either Charlie Self schreef According to William Lincoln, it exudes a gummy residue if heated by dull tools. Might be messy. + + + That is possible, but only if the relevant tree was damaged during its life. It is not the rule. + + + I've always made sure tools for purpleheart are especially sharp. While teredo (shipworm) is not a particular problem outside oceans (docks, ships, boats, similar structures), powder post beetle can chew up the sapwood. + + + Sapwood is never resistant to anything, no matter what wood you are talking about ... PvR |
#18
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
On 17 Mar 2004 11:15:51 -0800, Alan W wrote:
Need some real world advise on an issue: No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade. Very small mouth opening, around .005 pasing shavings around .002. The sole is flat to under a .001 according to my starrett straight edge and a source of light. Very hard wood, purpleheart in my case, 3" x 12" How many minutes of smoothing are you getting from stock stanley blades before you are rehonning the edge? Is this a 5 times and hour event, or 10 times an hour? Or once every 3 minutes. I find I get 3-4 good minutes of shavings at a stroke every 5-8 seconds, and then I need to advance the blade just a fraction to keep shaving. Thoughts a The blade is advancing back into the plane because the lever cab is not terribly tight. My money is on this. If I'm facing something that's tough then I make sure to tighten my lever cap. As somebody else mentioned it may possibly be a loose frog. Also I bet there's so much backlash built into that plane that it's not funny, which is something you should be aware of. The blade is dull already. If your blade is dulling that quickly then the steel of your blade must have a hardness not much above that of purpleheart. My blades dull but the only noticeable effect is that it's harder to push the plane - it's still taking shavings. Eventually I get sick of it and re-hone. My irons will hold an edge longer than yours but an iron becoming unusable in a few minutes beggars belief even if it's a crappy iron (and it's likely to be). I'm off to pick up a flat tip for a dial indicator today, and will pull a blade next time I have to advance it and see if it still shaves arm hairs or if the edge has dulled. You'll find that it probably wont take arm hairs but it's still sharp enough to take shavings, which is what your report seems to indicate ie. you just need to advance the blade. Even my A2 irons wont cut arm hairs after I've used them for a short while. What's the wreck's consensus? Dump the Stanley and buy a Lie Nielsen if you're going to be doing a lot of work with hard hardwoods. Planing purpleheart with a Stanley strikes me as certifiable. -- Frank |
#19
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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
Frank Shute schreef
My blades dull but the only noticeable effect is that it's harder to push the plane - it's still taking shavings. + + + I suggest you look at your shavings. These will look different, too. PvR |
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