Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder I know your are anxious to use your new BS but if you are going to rough out the cut with you rjig saw, why do it again on the BS? I have a large Laguna BS and dont rely on the cut to be my final surface, I only rough out curves on my BS also. I use a disk of spindle sander to take out the line. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder table extensions? rollers? basically the same way you'd approach it for a table saw |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
Dick Snyder wrote:
I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? I see no sense in using both tools. If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the curve, either by hand, or spindle sander. However, to me this is "jig up" time!! Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project wood. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
Dick Snyder wrote:
I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder I have the same saw. Make sure you TIGHTEN the knobs that lock the tilt. Otherwise, with a heavy piece of wood it may try to tilt on you. Did you buy a good blade? After a couple of trial cuts my Griz blade found its place hanging on the wall "in case of emergency". Never have put it back on the saw. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA The young know the rules, the old know the exceptions. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"Swingman" wrote: However, to me this is "jig up" time!! AMEN. Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project wood. Again AMEN. Picture working with Hondouras Mahogany or teak. Swing's approach will let you maintain your sanity. Lew |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
Swingman wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? I see no sense in using both tools. If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the curve, either by hand, or spindle sander. However, to me this is "jig up" time!! Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project wood. What him said. ~Mark. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:19:12 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder Whenever the piece gets too big for the table, it's time to build an extension support or consider another method to make the curved cut. I made a 12-foot valance with a long gentle curve. After some thought, I used a shop-built trammel with a mounted router. Instead of a router you could mount a jigsaw on the trammel. I used double-stick carpet tape to hold the piece to my workbench. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"charlie" wrote in message ... "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder table extensions? rollers? basically the same way you'd approach it for a table saw Clearly the answer is he needs a bigger bandsaw... gotta keep the tool industry going in these tough times. ;~) John |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
I second what Swingman said. I use 1/4" mdf (damn BORG only carry full
sheets of 1/4 and 3/4). I can make sure that it's right before I cut the actual wood. The last thing you want to do is to try to explain to your wife why you need to buy more of the expensive wood. You said you wanted to spend quality time with a file/rasp/dremel/whatever. Even with an extension table, I wouldn't try it on the bandsaw Allen |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"Gerald Ross" wrote in message ... Dick Snyder wrote: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? TIA. Dick Snyder I have the same saw. Make sure you TIGHTEN the knobs that lock the tilt. Otherwise, with a heavy piece of wood it may try to tilt on you. Did you buy a good blade? After a couple of trial cuts my Griz blade found its place hanging on the wall "in case of emergency". Never have put it back on the saw. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA The young know the rules, the old know the exceptions. I got a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade (2 actually so I am not caught out when the first one breaks). That blade was recommended to me at a local woodworking show last winter as well as by several people on this group. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
"Swingman" wrote in message ... Dick Snyder wrote: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? I see no sense in using both tools. If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the curve, either by hand, or spindle sander. However, to me this is "jig up" time!! Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project wood. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) Thanks for the suggestion. I had considered this earlier but was hot to use my new bandsaw. I think I will have to wait on that. I will take the MDF approach. Dick |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 15:49:00 -0600, Swingman wrote:
Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. I agree with Swingman too except that I would combine Phisherman's trammel technique to make the pattern. You can layout the radius and mount your router on a piece of stock long enough to give the desired curve. The longest radius I've done this with was a little over 11' for a balcony over a curved stair. It's not much more difficult to do with a longer radius than a shorter one. Mike O. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
In article , "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? Yep -- don't do it. That's *much* too large to try to handle on such a small table. If I were doing that, I think I'd rough it with the jigsaw, then smooth the curve with a spokeshave. Or make a template and finish with a router, as Swingman suggested. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
Swingman wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? I see no sense in using both tools. If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the curve, either by hand, or spindle sander. However, to me this is "jig up" time!! Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood. Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit. IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project wood. This is exactly how the parts are constructed for the rocking chairs I build. -- "Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
Dick Snyder wrote:
I got a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade (2 actually so I am not caught out when the first one breaks). That blade was recommended to me at a local woodworking show last winter as well as by several people on this group. Mine is 11 years old, fair amount of use, still sharp. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting a big curve on my bandsaw
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:19:12 -0500, the infamous "Dick Snyder"
scrawled the following: I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn? Build infeed and outfeed tables the same height as the bandsaw table. Smaller table frames with larger diameter tops will work fairly well, too. Roller ball in/outfeed stands can work, too. For example: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5914 -- Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost. -- Thomas J. Watson |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Cutting longish curve in plywood. | Woodworking | |||
Cutting simple curve by hand | Woodworking | |||
Request for help finding a cam curve that will have lower maximum contact stress than a Parabolic curve (and link to CAD and JPEG files) | Metalworking | |||
Jig for Cutting circles on a bandsaw | Woodworking | |||
cutting circles on a bandsaw | Woodworking |