Every time that I've used a hole saw, it's been a pain in the ass.
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.

Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

"mkr5000" wrote:

Every time that I've used a hole saw, it's been a pain in the ass.
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.

Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

Sounds like you are operating at too high an RPM.

Anything above 3-400 RPM will be a problem.

To protect your wrists, you really need a right angle drill.

BiMetal hole saws do a good job, plain carbon steel not so good.

Have never found a need for carbide hole saws.


Lew

you're right, too high a rotation.

too lazy to change the belt but I'll try it tomorrow.

I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
to change speed.

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Every time that I've used a hole saw, it's been a pain in the ass.
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.

Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

If they stall your drill, you need a new drill motor. Get something with
some power.

--

-Mike-

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
you're right, too high a rotation.

too lazy to change the belt but I'll try it tomorrow.

I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
to change speed.


My apologies for my previous reply - did not realize you were talking about
a press.

Shame on you though. Really! By your own admission, you are too lazy to
change your belts, but you'll wasted a lot of people's time with what is
essentially a stupid request? You really should be ashamed...

--

-Mike-

Have you tried drilling 'relief' holes along the inside of the saw hole kerf
to allow the sawdust to escape to prevent overheating?




"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Every time that I've used a hole saw, it's been a pain in the ass.
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.

Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

Sometimes it isn't the motor or belting. It is the power cord.

All to often I have seen 16 or 18 ga power cords on drill presses and lathes.

It starves the motor and that begins the downfall.

I put a 12 ga on my drill press and gained HP! Now to look at that
wimpy 2 wire plug on my metal lathe. Never had trouble - but I want to
put in 3 wire and larger wire as well.

Martin

Mike Marlow wrote:
"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Every time that I've used a hole saw, it's been a pain in the ass.
They're fine on thin Pine, but that's about it.

Even brand new ones will burn and stall my drill.

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

If they stall your drill, you need a new drill motor. Get something with
some power.

On Nov 19, 3:08*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
you're right, too high a rotation.

too lazy to change the belt but I'll try it tomorrow.

I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
to change speed.

Carbide hole saws have an advantage that the barrel is thinner than
the kerf if the teeth. Less chance of binding, but taking the plug out
is no easier.... at least with solid surface and particle board.

I talked to a plumber the other day and he said that they use a self feed
drill bit. He said that they worked much better than a hole saw. They
obviously cost more. And they only come in certain sizes, apparently sized
for various diameters of pipe to go through.

I need to drill some holes myself soon in inch and a half wood. I know that
Harbor Freight has a few sizes.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65657

I may pick up one and try it out soon. The only problem is that they only
have one size I need. I may have to go elsewhere to get the other size.

I have no experience with these kinds of bits. But I don't have to drill
that many holes so a cheaper bit should work for me.

I should point out that he had a super sized drill. I am not sure how well
this would work with a small, wimpy drill. I have a large drill I picked up
years ago that I hardly ever use. It requires both hands and much of my
bodyweight to keep it under control. That should work well for my
application. Either that or a drill press should work well.

I am al;so thinking tht this may not be the smoothest cut. Since it is
designed for a utilitarian purpose by folks who don't care about pretty.

"Lee Michaels" wrote:

The handles are quite long. The drill itself is quite heavy. The
wood I am drilling is soft pine. And I am a big guy. I should be
OK.

Although I agree with you, I am not going to go out and buy an
expensive new tool for a few holes.

A quality hole saw arbor is about $15 and an 1-1/2" BiMetal hole saw
is about $10.

Hole saws are like potato chips, one is not enoughG.

An intergral arbor saves a couple of $, but only if you NEVER need
another size.

Have fun.

Lew

Lower rpm helps, I tried it this morning -- at least it doesn't burn
or bind up but I'll try a carbide saw anyway.

Harbor freight step drills are JUNK by the way. Complete waste of
money. (I'm one of the fools who bought some).


Klein is the way to go and they work great on metal but for wood I'll
stick with the hole saw thing -- you're moving much less material that
way.

On Nov 19, 12:08*pm, mkr5000 wrote:

[about a cutting problem with holesaws]

I need to get my shopsmith back that I used as a drill press -- easy
to change speed.

Your use of a vertical drill press guarantees holesaw problems.
The holesaw design, unlike twist drills and augers, has NO
provision to pump out the sawdust. You have to raise the
bit a lot, or do tricks (a pilot hole at the perimeter allows
sawdust to drop through); I like the compressed-air blowgun
approach, but usually just stand there huffing and puffing.

mkr5000 wrote:

Are carbide hole saws "much" better?

I didn't even know they made them in carbide till I googled it a few
minutes ago.

Yes very much better try the Bosch Carbide Hole Saws
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