I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?

sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?


What's the horsepower rating of the motor?

If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Nova wrote:
sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?


What's the horsepower rating of the motor?

If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

And if it's a dual-voltage motor the nameplate will say so explicitly
and have a wiring diagram for the internal connections.

Far better to run a 220V circuit for the saw instead.

--

The motor itself might be dual winding.

If you don't know - call an electrician - or take it to a motor repair place.
They know motors.

Likely the label on the end or top indicates multi-voltage.

Martin

Nova wrote:
sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?


What's the horsepower rating of the motor?

If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

On Nov 8, 6:41*pm, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:
The motor itself might be dual winding.

If you don't know - call an electrician - or take it to a motor repair place.
They know motors.

Likely the label on the end or top indicates multi-voltage.

Martin

Nova wrote:
sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?

What's the horsepower rating of the motor?

If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

I just found the manual online (model 2221). On the parts lists it
lists:
110 power cord assembly
220 power cord assembly

Also, thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm hoping to avoid having to rewire my shed, but I guess I will do so
if necessary.

I love the internet.
b

sibosop wrote:
On Nov 8, 6:41 pm, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:
The motor itself might be dual winding.

If you don't know - call an electrician - or take it to a motor repair place.
They know motors.

Likely the label on the end or top indicates multi-voltage.

Martin

Nova wrote:
sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?
What's the horsepower rating of the motor?
If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

I just found the manual online (model 2221). On the parts lists it
lists:
110 power cord assembly
220 power cord assembly

Also, thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm hoping to avoid having to rewire my shed, but I guess I will do so
if necessary.
....

What's the nameplate FLA rating? Is your 110 circuit up to the task
anyway? You may need to go from 20A to 30A to avoid tripping breaker
every time run anything of real size thru it anyway.

Had that problem w/ first saw I ever had--a B&D 10" RAS that was 110V
only--was in a rental location at that time and was real pita owing to
that happening a lot since landlord didn't want any modifications.

Another thing to think about is voltage drop. All in all, it may just
be more satisfactory w/ the 220 but if the motor is, in fact, dual
voltage it should have all the right poop on the nameplate and under the
connections cover. If so, can't hurt to try and see how it goes, of
course, then go back and run the other circuit if it doesn't suit.

--

On Nov 9, 8:58*am, dpb wrote:
sibosop wrote:
On Nov 8, 6:41 pm, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:
The motor itself might be dual winding.

If you don't know - call an electrician - or take it to a motor repair place.
They know motors.

Likely the label on the end or top indicates multi-voltage.

Martin

Nova wrote:
sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?
What's the horsepower rating of the motor?
If it's over 1.5 HP the motor may not be able to be changed.

I just found the manual online (model 2221). On the parts lists it
lists:
110 power cord assembly
220 power cord assembly

Also, thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm hoping to avoid having to rewire my shed, but I guess I will do so
if necessary.

...

What's the nameplate FLA rating? *Is your 110 circuit up to the task
anyway? *You may need to go from 20A to 30A to avoid tripping breaker
every time run anything of real size thru it anyway.

Had that problem w/ first saw I ever had--a B&D 10" RAS that was 110V
only--was in a rental location at that time and was real pita owing to
that happening a lot since landlord didn't want any modifications.

Another thing to think about is voltage drop. *All in all, it may just
be more satisfactory w/ the 220 but if the motor is, in fact, dual
voltage it should have all the right poop on the nameplate and under the
connections cover. *If so, can't hurt to try and see how it goes, of
course, then go back and run the other circuit if it doesn't suit.

--

I'm getting the picture here.
It's a 2.5 horsepower motor. I'll probably blow the 110 circuit.


I've found out that I have two unused 220V circuits in my house (I now
use gas).
Looks like I got some crawl space time to rewire the shed.

thanks for all the good answers.
b

On Nov 8, 7:02*pm, sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?

I still have the paperwork from a really old WT table saw.
Not sure if it will help, but here's the diagram.
http://tinypic.com/r/xpv7ev/4

R

On Nov 8, 7:02*pm, sibosop wrote:
I just bought a Walker Turner saw. It's wired for 220. I need 120 to
get it to work in my shed. Anyone know how this is done?

As one replid "Far better to run a 220V circuit for the saw instead. "

The motor should have a diagram on the ID Plate if it is a dual-
voltage motor.

If you can, run some 6 or 8AWG into your shop off a 220 breaker -
you'll find other uses for the 220VAC - terminate in a small breaker
box and you can get a couple 110 circuits out of the deal.