I just had my service panel upgraded and now I plan on redoing the
lighting in my garage. I have a 26' x 21' garage and I plan on
installing 9 t-8 lighting fixtures (3 rows x 3 deep)(see configuration
below). The question I have is: does it matter how I run the wiring
to each fixture? I am thinking of running the wiring in an 'S'
pattern to each fixture. Or, does it make more sense to run 3
separate T's coming off of the main line? I also thought about running
two separate circuits for the lights. This way I could increase or
decrease the lighting as needed. Which makes the most sense?

SP = Service Panel
SW = Switch
= Lighting Fixture

SP
= = =

= = =

= = =
SW

Well, FWIW, I have 3 rows of 4 lights in my garage. They're on 3 separate
switches. If all I'm doing is going in to look for something, it doesn't
make sense to turn on all 12. When the overhead door is up, that blocks 1
row, so no sense in turning them on. See where I'm going with that? Your
gonna need all them on at one time or another, without a doubt, but there's
time you won't. That's in my garage, your garage may be different. The shop
is pretty much the same way, but with a fourth switch to turn on just a 4
foot fixture, in case I just need to run in there after something. YMMV.

--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"x071907" wrote in message
om...
I just had my service panel upgraded and now I plan on redoing the
lighting in my garage. I have a 26' x 21' garage and I plan on
installing 9 t-8 lighting fixtures (3 rows x 3 deep)(see configuration
below). The question I have is: does it matter how I run the wiring
to each fixture? I am thinking of running the wiring in an 'S'
pattern to each fixture. Or, does it make more sense to run 3
separate T's coming off of the main line? I also thought about running
two separate circuits for the lights. This way I could increase or
decrease the lighting as needed. Which makes the most sense?

SP = Service Panel
SW = Switch
= Lighting Fixture

SP
= = =

= = =

= = =
SW

I agree with Jerry, split them up so you don't need to burn all of them just to
walk around. I actually have my "walking around" lights on a motion/occupancy
sensor and my work lights on a 3 way switch, controlled at both ends of the
shop.
It is "hubbed" in the center in a big "J" box so I can add a "4 way" switch leg
later if I see a need.

You guys are geniuses. Why didn't I think of that? Where does one purchase
a motion sensor?

Bob

"Greg" wrote in message
...
I agree with Jerry, split them up so you don't need to burn all of them
just to
walk around. I actually have my "walking around" lights on a
motion/occupancy
sensor and my work lights on a 3 way switch, controlled at both ends of
the
shop.
It is "hubbed" in the center in a big "J" box so I can add a "4 way"
switch leg
later if I see a need.

Lowes has the ones you need. HD does not
MAKE sure you get a motion sensor rated for fluorescent lights; else the
bulbs will blow prematurely.
Unfortunately the motion sensors rated for fluorescent are pricey (about
$50) , but better than replacing bulbs.
Been there done that.

Do not quote me on it, but I think it has to do with the way the sensor is
switching (opto-isolator versus relay).
What I do know is the cheaper (read not rated for fluorescent), is clipping
the AC, thus causing the premature failure.

If I am wrong I am sure I will be corrected.


Roger.


"Bob Davis" wrote in message
nk.net...
You guys are geniuses. Why didn't I think of that? Where does one
purchase
a motion sensor?

Bob

"Greg" wrote in message
...
I agree with Jerry, split them up so you don't need to burn all of them
just to
walk around. I actually have my "walking around" lights on a
motion/occupancy
sensor and my work lights on a 3 way switch, controlled at both ends of
the
shop.
It is "hubbed" in the center in a big "J" box so I can add a "4 way"
switch leg
later if I see a need.

Yup the "relay" model will run either and the triac model is going to be shaky
on flourecents. I have incandecents on the occupancy sensor. They are better
when you have a short duty cycle.
BTW the difference between an occupancy sensor and a motion detector is the
occupancy sensor stays on as long as it sees motion, restarting the timer each
time. A motion sensor is usually a "one shot" that will time out and you have
to jump up and down to get the light back on.

I agree. Split them up and install more than one switch to control the
lights. There are times when you will not need all of them. The number of
switches you need is a matter of opinion. Two or three switches probably
will get the job done.


"Greg" wrote in message
...
I agree with Jerry, split them up so you don't need to burn all of them
just to
walk around. I actually have my "walking around" lights on a
motion/occupancy
sensor and my work lights on a 3 way switch, controlled at both ends of
the
shop.
It is "hubbed" in the center in a big "J" box so I can add a "4 way"
switch leg
later if I see a need.