jodleren wrote:
I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

The only _real_ answer is to quit using dowels...

The "trick" is to use a doweling jig -- either make one or you can buy
versions from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive.

--

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

On Sep 22, 8:53*am, jodleren wrote:
I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper. You don't say what size hole you're
drilling, I'm just assuming it's in the half inch or smaller range.

As you've found out the hard way, a standard wood bit is the worst
thing to use for precision drilling. You might be able to get it
centering better if you drilled a shallow hole in the center with a
much smaller bit, but that's basically what the brad point drill does.

"jodleren" wrote in message
...
I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Slips? As in produces an oblong or oversized hole when done?

If you are set on using standard twist drill tooling rather than other wood
bits, you could start using a drill bushing set-up to guide the drill...
This generally "fixes" the drill in place so that it doesn't wander during
the cut even if it hits a hard spot, etc. Some of our custoemrs drill raw
timber that sometimes has nails from the field embedded... Ugly work. The
only way to keep the drill straight when it hits a nail or even hard grain
areas is to use a bushing... And even that sometimes won't help if you are
too deep and the tool flexes.

Depending on your volume, if you are doing more than a single hole at a
time, I have otehr ideas, but they border on advertising from me so I won't
go into them at this time.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

On Sep 22, 5:01*pm, " wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:53*am, jodleren wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper. You don't say what size hole you're
drilling, I'm just assuming it's in the half inch or smaller range.

As you've found out the hard way, a standard wood bit is the worst
thing to use for precision drilling. You might be able to get it
centering better if you drilled a shallow hole in the center with a
much smaller bit, but that's basically what the brad point drill does.

I did a fast search on the net, and cannot see what the difference is
between a normal wood drill and a "brad point bit" is. Both are
drilles, with the small 2mm tip in front? I have tried using a 2 mm
drill bit, then a 6 mm drill bit.
I use mostly 6 mm dowels, but also 8 and 10 mm.
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...d-Point-sm.jpg HSS,
but my normal wood bits look the same.

bdp: As for not using dowels, the same problem apply: there are other
ways of putting things together, but precission is the same problem.
Then next problem is my work(shop) in my apartment and limited
spaces Otherwise, I agree

On Sep 22, 5:20*pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
"jodleren" wrote in message

...

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Slips? *As in produces an oblong or oversized hole when done?

If you are set on using standard twist drill tooling rather than other wood
bits, you could start using a drill bushing set-up to guide the drill...
This generally "fixes" the drill in place so that it doesn't wander during
the cut even if it hits a hard spot, etc. *Some of our custoemrs drill raw
timber that sometimes has nails from the field embedded... *Ugly work. *The
only way to keep the drill straight when it hits a nail or even hard grain
areas is to use a bushing... *And even that sometimes won't help if you are
too deep and the tool flexes.

Depending on your volume, if you are doing more than a single hole at a
time, I have otehr ideas, but they border on advertising from me so I won't
go into them at this time. *

Slips: I already have problems here with English, let me explain. When
drilling a 6 mm hole, the drill goes in, and 0-4 mm down it might
"jump" say 3 mm causing the hole to be out of place. Wander might be
the right wonder. Also "drill bushing set-up" is not clear for me.
I do furniture for myself, and when ordered, say I work in my spare
time 2 weekends/month on orders. Max order ever was 6 chairs, but a
volume of 10 is soon to arrive.

Yes, you might add some links to your shop, pictures will help me a
lot.

WBR
Sonnich

"jodleren" wrote in message
...
On Sep 22, 5:01 pm, " wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:53 am, jodleren wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper. You don't say what size hole you're
drilling, I'm just assuming it's in the half inch or smaller range.

As you've found out the hard way, a standard wood bit is the worst
thing to use for precision drilling. You might be able to get it
centering better if you drilled a shallow hole in the center with a
much smaller bit, but that's basically what the brad point drill does.

I did a fast search on the net, and cannot see what the difference is
between a normal wood drill and a "brad point bit" is. Both are
drilles, with the small 2mm tip in front? I have tried using a 2 mm
drill bit, then a 6 mm drill bit.
I use mostly 6 mm dowels, but also 8 and 10 mm.
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...d-Point-sm.jpg HSS,
but my normal wood bits look the same.

bdp: As for not using dowels, the same problem apply: there are other
ways of putting things together, but precission is the same problem.
Then next problem is my work(shop) in my apartment and limited
spaces Otherwise, I agree


This is a close-up view of a brad point bit.

http://images2d.snapfish.com/2323232...%3B669:7nu0mrj

A drill bushing is usually a hardened piece of steel that keeps the drill
from moving at all.

http://www.frasers.com/displayFile.j...eName=bush.jpg

When your drill is in the bushing or guide, it can not move to the left or
right. It goes straight.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill

V8013-R

jodleren wrote:
On Sep 22, 5:20 pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
"jodleren" wrote in message

...

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a
ordinary wood drill (bit)?

Slips? As in produces an oblong or oversized hole when done?

If you are set on using standard twist drill tooling rather than
other wood bits, you could start using a drill bushing set-up to
guide the drill... This generally "fixes" the drill in place so that
it doesn't wander during the cut even if it hits a hard spot, etc.
Some of our custoemrs drill raw timber that sometimes has nails from
the field embedded... Ugly work. The only way to keep the drill
straight when it hits a nail or even hard grain areas is to use a
bushing... And even that sometimes won't help if you are too deep
and the tool flexes.

Depending on your volume, if you are doing more than a single hole
at a time, I have otehr ideas, but they border on advertising from
me so I won't go into them at this time.

Slips: I already have problems here with English, let me explain. When
drilling a 6 mm hole, the drill goes in, and 0-4 mm down it might
"jump" say 3 mm causing the hole to be out of place. Wander might be
the right wonder. Also "drill bushing set-up" is not clear for me.
I do furniture for myself, and when ordered, say I work in my spare
time 2 weekends/month on orders. Max order ever was 6 chairs, but a
volume of 10 is soon to arrive.

Yes, you might add some links to your shop, pictures will help me a
lot.

Ah! Well, a biscuit joiner may be a better choice than dowels. Biscuits are
much more forgiving.

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 06:53:39 -0700, jodleren wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the drill
slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit, but are
there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary wood
drill (bit)?


I suspect that what you're using is not a wood bit, but a common twist
bit. Those were designed for metal. Brad points are what you want for
drilling in wood. Forstner bits are used when a flat bottom hole is
desired, or when a large diameter hole is needed.

That said, it's almost impossible to drill matching holes for dowels
without some sort of jig, even if only a homemade one.

But what some others will tell you, dowels are still a perfectly adequate
method of joinery for most purposes - don't give up.


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sep 22, 7:42*am, jodleren wrote:
On Sep 22, 5:01*pm, " wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:53*am, jodleren wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper.

I did a fast search on the net, and cannot see what the difference is
between a normal wood drill and a "brad point bit" is.

There are a dozen types of drill bits, of which four are important
to woodworkers. These are auger (long spiral flutes, with screw-form
pilot in many cases) for deep holes, brad point (a better point form
for locating holes than the 135 degree split point drills used for
metal),
spade bits (fine for carpentry, but a last resort for woodworkers),
and Forstner bits (good appearance at entry point, square bottom
holes).

If you want a good hole location, use a drill guide bushing like in a
doweling
jig, or something like this:

http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/5011002.html

Never attempt to drill small holes then expand them, it defeats the
centering
of any drill except the Forstner when the center of the hole is
missing.
That only works with conical points (like metal drills).

diggerop wrote:
"jodleren" wrote in message
....
bdp: As for not using dowels, the same problem apply: there are other
ways of putting things together, but precission is the same problem.
....

Whatever bit you use won't solve the basic problem on its own. The
point is to get accuracy (and most importrantly, repeatability) you need
a placement mechanism other than trying to repeat the measurement of
dead center on multiple pieces as well as on the centerline of the other
axis.

W/o the reproducibility there, the drill is on the mark is still
dependent on getting that mark which is a pita w/o a fixture.

Even if you make something extremely simple and it's not dead center it
doesn't matter; simply register from the same surface and the offset is
compensated. At least you're now down to only one axis to align to and
once that is done (which is much simpler than holding the drill bit
point freehand) having a guide cuts it to only the other axis at worst.

--

HeyBub wrote:

Ah! Well, a biscuit joiner may be a better choice than dowels. Biscuits are
much more forgiving.

The problem with Biscuits is that they are great for locating a joint
while the glue sets but have little shear strength. Dowels do as do
floating tenons. this means that using a biscuit joiner to replace
dowels is usually a pour choice. If you want the speed and accuracy of a
biscuit joiner but with the strength of a dowel then a Domino is the
only choice now.

--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 06:53:39 -0700 (PDT), jodleren
wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

Did you make a dimple? Tighten drillpress table? Sharp bit?

In ,
Jerome Meekings spewed forth:
HeyBub wrote:

Ah! Well, a biscuit joiner may be a better choice than dowels.
Biscuits are much more forgiving.

The problem with Biscuits is that they are great for locating a joint
while the glue sets but have little shear strength. Dowels do as do
floating tenons. this means that using a biscuit joiner to replace
dowels is usually a pour choice. If you want the speed and accuracy
of a biscuit joiner but with the strength of a dowel then a Domino is
the only choice now.

replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

uh uhg

http://www.freudtools.com/p-420-fdw7...ng-joiner.aspx

On Sep 22, 7:53*am, dpb wrote:
jodleren wrote:
I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

The only _real_ answer is to quit using dowels...

The "trick" is to use a doweling jig -- either make one or you can buy
versions from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive.

--

I've had really good luck using a Forstner bit AND a doweling jig ...
something like this one:

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/im...262-01-500.jpg

I lost count of how many dowels are holding my recently completed wine
rack together, but ... no problems.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

I think Forstner bits like low rpm's ... incidentally.

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper. You don't say what size hole you're
drilling, I'm just assuming it's in the half inch or smaller range.


I bought the HSS BP bits from Woodcrafters? and they are excellent and
(watch your fingrs) very sharp.

On Sep 22, 7:47*pm, (Jerome Meekings)
wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
Ah! Well, a biscuit joiner may be a better choice than dowels. Biscuits are
much more forgiving.

The problem with Biscuits is that they are great for locating a joint
while the glue sets but have little shear strength. Dowels do as do
floating tenons. this means that using a biscuit joiner to replace
dowels is usually a pour choice. If you want the speed and accuracy of a
biscuit joiner but with the strength of a dowel then a Domino is the
only choice now.

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

On Sep 22, 8:01*am, " wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:53*am, jodleren wrote:

I keep on having problems drilling holes for dowels, sometimes the
drill slips as much as 3 mm - I am thinking of using a fostner bit,
but are there any good solution for doing dowels holes with a ordinary
wood drill (bit)?

Basically: are there some good instructions/idea on the net (with
pictures?)

WBR
Sonnich

Brad point bit. Forstner is fine too but if I recall you can get a
good brad point bit cheaper. You don't say what size hole you're
drilling, I'm just assuming it's in the half inch or smaller range.

As you've found out the hard way, a standard wood bit is the worst
thing to use for precision drilling. You might be able to get it
centering better if you drilled a shallow hole in the center with a
much smaller bit, but that's basically what the brad point drill does.

I'm fighting -- with every fiber of my being -- the overwhelming urge
to respond with ... "good point!"

I fear my fight is not going well ;-)

wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

Think clamp.

On Sep 23, 2:52*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. *Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

Think clamp.

There is no clamp in the world that will make a biscuit do anything
for registration. Either the clamp (or caul) does it or it doesn't.
The biscuit has nothing to do with it. BTDT.

wrote:
On Sep 23, 2:52 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

Think clamp.

There is no clamp in the world that will make a biscuit do anything
for registration. Either the clamp (or caul) does it or it doesn't.
The biscuit has nothing to do with it. BTDT.

I agree. But you can wiggle a biscuit 'till everything lines up, then clamp
the sucker in place until the glue hardens.

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:19:33 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

wrote:
On Sep 23, 2:52 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

Think clamp.

There is no clamp in the world that will make a biscuit do anything
for registration. Either the clamp (or caul) does it or it doesn't.
The biscuit has nothing to do with it. BTDT.

I agree. But you can wiggle a biscuit 'till everything lines up, then clamp
the sucker in place until the glue hardens.

But if you can wiggle it, and you can, it's *not* doing anything for
registration. In fact, I'm not sure what (good) it does. Maybe face
frames? Haven't done that yet.

HeyBub wrote:

wrote:
On Sep 23, 2:52 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that biscuits aren't much good for
position, either. Theit fit is too sloppy to register the pieces
properly in either axis.

Think clamp.

There is no clamp in the world that will make a biscuit do anything
for registration. Either the clamp (or caul) does it or it doesn't.
The biscuit has nothing to do with it. BTDT.

I agree. But you can wiggle a biscuit 'till everything lines up, then clamp
the sucker in place until the glue hardens.

If they don't do anything for registration and they don't do anything
for joint strength. What is the point in using them?

This is a serious question not a troll. I had thought that the main use
was registration.

--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

ChairMan wrote:

In ,
Jerome Meekings spewed forth:
HeyBub wrote:

Ah! Well, a biscuit joiner may be a better choice than dowels.
Biscuits are much more forgiving.

The problem with Biscuits is that they are great for locating a joint
while the glue sets but have little shear strength. Dowels do as do
floating tenons. this means that using a biscuit joiner to replace
dowels is usually a pour choice. If you want the speed and accuracy
of a biscuit joiner but with the strength of a dowel then a Domino is
the only choice now.

replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

uh uhg

http://www.freudtools.com/p-420-fdw7...ng-joiner.aspx

Sorry while it is a nice tool its use is much more limited than the
Domino or biscuit joiner.

For a single or twin dowel then it is as fast but that is realistically
its limit. Also if you need to limit twist you have to have 2 dowels at
32mm centers so your minimum material size is limited.

AFAIK a Domino can be used in place that you could use biscuits but you
can get exact registration with the first and then wiggle room with the
others on long boards. In places where the maximum 10mm is too small you
can use multiple or ganged dominos.


--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

"Jerome Meekings" wrote:

If they don't do anything for registration and they don't do
anything
for joint strength. What is the point in using them?

This is a serious question not a troll. I had thought that the main
use
was registration.

Best define registration.

I use them for top registration and consider 1/64" close enough for
tops and atom bombs.

Having said that, I use oversize stock and then run thru a drum sander
to get a finished top.

YMMV

Lew


--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:31:42 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Jerome Meekings" wrote:

If they don't do anything for registration and they don't do
anything
for joint strength. What is the point in using them?

This is a serious question not a troll. I had thought that the main
use
was registration.

That's what I thought, before I actually used one.

Best define registration.

I use them for top registration and consider 1/64" close enough for
tops and atom bombs.

Having said that, I use oversize stock and then run thru a drum sander
to get a finished top.

If you can accept that registration error, why bother with the
biscuits?

"krw" wrote:

If you can accept that registration error, why bother with the
biscuits?

1/64" beats 1/32" or more every time out of the box.

Lew

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:40:16 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"krw" wrote:

If you can accept that registration error, why bother with the
biscuits?

1/64" beats 1/32" or more every time out of the box.

I recently tried it both ways, both using cauls. I didn't notice any
difference.

If they don't do anything for registration and they don't do anything
for joint strength. What is the point in using them?

This is a serious question not a troll. I had thought that the main use
was registration.

They add plenty of strength to "end grain to face grain" joints.

Edge to edge... I concur, there is no point.

-Steve

krw wrote:
HeyBub wrote:

I agree. But you can wiggle a biscuit 'till everything lines up, then clamp
the sucker in place until the glue hardens.

But if you can wiggle it, and you can, it's *not* doing anything for
registration. In fact, I'm not sure what (good) it does.

Yeah, if it does little to nothing for strength, and nothing for
registration, then what is the purpose?

Maybe face frames? Haven't done that yet.

I've always used mortise and tenon for face frames, but have bought a
Kreg pocket hole thing-ee recently. I've used the Kreg thing for all
sorts of stuff already, and it works really well, and easy. I haven't
built a face frame with it yet, and probably will do the old M&T thing
anyway... Old habits die hard sometimes... then again, the Kreg pocket
hole thing is really easy, and fast, and surprisingly strong...

If you are talking about attaching the face frame to the cabinet, I
could see a biscuit joiner used for registration, but I've either used
nothing, or plowed a tongue and groove for that.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

krw wrote:
On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:40:16 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

"krw" wrote:

If you can accept that registration error, why bother with the
biscuits?
1/64" beats 1/32" or more every time out of the box.

I recently tried it both ways, both using cauls. I didn't notice any
difference.

1/64th is more than good enough for me. Cauls work fine if your wood is
perfect, less so if you don't have a planer. I can see using a biscuit
joiner for a top, making sure the top surface is flat, and any
discrepancies are on the bottom surface... you guys with thickness
planers wouldn't understand:-) I'm still not likely to spend the money
on one, I'd rather by a planer:-)

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

On Sep 26, 8:52*am, Jack Stein wrote:
krw wrote:
On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:40:16 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

"krw" wrote:

If you can accept that registration error, why bother with the
biscuits?
1/64" beats 1/32" or more every time out of the box.
I recently tried it both ways, both using cauls. *I didn't notice any
difference. *

1/64th is more than good enough for me. *Cauls work fine if your wood is
perfect, less so if you don't have a planer. *I can see using a biscuit
joiner for a top, making sure the top surface is flat, and any
discrepancies are on the bottom surface... you guys with thickness
planers wouldn't understand:-) *I'm still not likely to spend the money
on one, I'd rather by a planer:-)

Right, but us guys with thickness planers don't like the bottoms bumpy
either. The top mirrors (as opposed to "mirror finish") the bottom.
I'll play with the biscuit jointer some more but so far it was a
coupla $hundred wasted.

wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

I can see using a biscuit
joiner for a top, making sure the top surface is flat, and any
discrepancies are on the bottom surface... you guys with thickness
planers wouldn't understand:-) I'm still not likely to spend the money
on one, I'd rather by a planer:-)

Right, but us guys with thickness planers don't like the bottoms bumpy
either.

If the boards are perfectly thicknessed to start with you wouldn't need
anything to get the top and bottom flat.. I'm guessing of course, cause
I don't have a planer and have never had perfectly thicknessed planks to
work with. I always try to get the top as close as humanly possible,
and the heck with the bottom, as long as it's not ridiculous.

The top mirrors (as opposed to "mirror finish") the bottom.
I'll play with the biscuit jointer some more but so far it was a
coupla $hundred wasted.

I never wanted one for strength, just for alignment issues. When folks
started trashing them for alignment, I started to wonder why you would
want one... Well, I want one, I want a nail gun too, but have no use
for one...

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 09:19:05 -0500, Jack Stein
wrote:

wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

I can see using a biscuit
joiner for a top, making sure the top surface is flat, and any
discrepancies are on the bottom surface... you guys with thickness
planers wouldn't understand:-) I'm still not likely to spend the money
on one, I'd rather by a planer:-)

Right, but us guys with thickness planers don't like the bottoms bumpy
either.

If the boards are perfectly thicknessed to start with you wouldn't need
anything to get the top and bottom flat.. I'm guessing of course, cause
I don't have a planer and have never had perfectly thicknessed planks to
work with. I always try to get the top as close as humanly possible,
and the heck with the bottom, as long as it's not ridiculous.

You need alignment to get the tops and bottoms flat. A biscuit cutter
doesn't accomplish the task is the point.

The top mirrors (as opposed to "mirror finish") the bottom.
I'll play with the biscuit jointer some more but so far it was a
coupla $hundred wasted.

I never wanted one for strength, just for alignment issues. When folks
started trashing them for alignment, I started to wonder why you would
want one... Well, I want one, I want a nail gun too, but have no use
for one...

I have a few nail guns too. At least they're useful. Finding "ammo"
for my round-head is a bit problematic, though. Everyone seems to
have 3-1/4" stuff but nothing shorter than 3". Probably should have
bought a clipped head nailer instead.