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table saw adjustment: how anal?
I'm trying to line up my new saw as best I can without buying any fancy
dongles to take ultra precise measurements. Today's project was getting the blade lined up parallel to the miter slots. I sharpened a pencil to a tiny point, marked a tooth, then clamped the pencil to my miter gauge. Moving pencil and tooth to the back of the table, there was a significant gap. After dicking around with the six bolts and wiggling around on the saw guts for a couple of hours, the best I was able to accomplish is that there is still a 0.014" gap between the pencil point and the marked tooth at the back of the table. I could never manage to get it closer than that and keep it there while the bolts were tightened back up. Unfortunately, the gap indicates that the blade is closer to the rip fence at the back than at the front, which is really seriously not cool. Still, I don't see what else I can do about it. This was the product of much fiddling, and it was hard to get it even this close. (BTW, the rip fence is to the right of the blade. I was using the left miter slot.) I don't have much lumber on hand to do test cuts with, but I tried a piece of 4/4 red oak about 3' long. I ripped a strip 1" wide and measured it at various points with dial calipers. It's damn close. The difference in measurement from point to point is less than I can measure without a micrometer, though there *is* some minute variation. Theer were no burn marks at all, no binding, no feeling of impending kickback, and it was a very smooth cut. So what does the Wreck say? Keep dicking with it or leave it alone until I see burn marks and other indications of a serious alignment problem? Maybe try some 6/4 or larger and see how that changes things... -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ |
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