Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
I'm looking for any suggestions on a little project we have to do in a
week or so. This project is basically removing old countertops on a bar so that they can be replaced with granite. The old tops are job site installed Formica on particle board over what are essentially kitchen cabinets. There is also a raised bar. Removing the raised bar is no problem but about 30' of the L shaped back bar has a mirror splash that we are supposed to try to save. We've bid plenty of time for the project and have an understanding that we'll try to save the mirror but won't have to buy it if we can't. Our initial plan is to take a sabre saw and saw out most of the top as close to the mirror as we can. Once we get that out, we'll try to use the sawzall to cut between the top and the 3/4" thick blocking that is attached to the cabinets. If the top comes off then we can remove the blocking. How would you go about it? Any other...better ideas? Thanks Mike O. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
A Fein Multimaster could get "reeeeeel" close.
"Mike O." wrote in message ... I'm looking for any suggestions on a little project we have to do in a week or so. This project is basically removing old countertops on a bar so that they can be replaced with granite. The old tops are job site installed Formica on particle board over what are essentially kitchen cabinets. There is also a raised bar. Removing the raised bar is no problem but about 30' of the L shaped back bar has a mirror splash that we are supposed to try to save. We've bid plenty of time for the project and have an understanding that we'll try to save the mirror but won't have to buy it if we can't. Our initial plan is to take a sabre saw and saw out most of the top as close to the mirror as we can. Once we get that out, we'll try to use the sawzall to cut between the top and the 3/4" thick blocking that is attached to the cabinets. If the top comes off then we can remove the blocking. How would you go about it? Any other...better ideas? Thanks Mike O. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 21, 6:53*pm, Mike O. wrote:
I'm looking for any suggestions on a little project we have to do in a week or so. This project is basically removing old countertops on a bar so that they can be replaced with granite. *The old tops are job site installed Formica on particle board over what are essentially kitchen cabinets. *There is also a raised bar. * Removing the raised bar is no problem but about 30' of the L shaped back bar has a mirror splash that we are supposed to try to save. * We've bid plenty of time for the project and have an understanding that we'll try to save the mirror but won't have to buy it if we can't. Our initial plan is to take a sabre saw and saw out most of the top as close to the mirror as we can. *Once we get that out, we'll try to use the sawzall to cut between the top and the 3/4" thick blocking that is attached to the cabinets. *If the top comes off then we can remove the blocking. How would you go about it? * Any other...better ideas? Is the mirror some etched/frosted thing or just regular mirror? Such attempts often go just fine until you get one little chip in the glass and the Owner insists on replacement - on your dime. I think this is a job for - ta da! - the Fein Multimaster! I'd just cut the blocking free from the cabinet and remove the whole top- remnant. R |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 21, 7:05*pm, "Leon" wrote:
A Fein Multimaster could get "reeeeeel" close. Damn, Leon. You beat me by a minute with the Fein Multimaster suggestion! Just picked up an older but excellent condition Fein 6" ROS from craigslist. Think I'm going to send it to my brother as a gift... R |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Leon wrote:
A Fein Multimaster could get "reeeeeel" close. Agreed--this is one of those jobs where the Multimaster is in its element. "Mike O." wrote in message ... I'm looking for any suggestions on a little project we have to do in a week or so. This project is basically removing old countertops on a bar so that they can be replaced with granite. The old tops are job site installed Formica on particle board over what are essentially kitchen cabinets. There is also a raised bar. Removing the raised bar is no problem but about 30' of the L shaped back bar has a mirror splash that we are supposed to try to save. We've bid plenty of time for the project and have an understanding that we'll try to save the mirror but won't have to buy it if we can't. Our initial plan is to take a sabre saw and saw out most of the top as close to the mirror as we can. Once we get that out, we'll try to use the sawzall to cut between the top and the 3/4" thick blocking that is attached to the cabinets. If the top comes off then we can remove the blocking. How would you go about it? Any other...better ideas? Thanks Mike O. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 21, 5:53*pm, Mike O. wrote:
I'm looking for any suggestions on a little project we have to do in a week or so. This project is basically removing old countertops on a bar so that they can be replaced with granite. *The old tops are job site installed Formica on particle board over what are essentially kitchen cabinets. *There is also a raised bar. * Removing the raised bar is no problem but about 30' of the L shaped back bar has a mirror splash that we are supposed to try to save. * We've bid plenty of time for the project and have an understanding that we'll try to save the mirror but won't have to buy it if we can't. Our initial plan is to take a sabre saw and saw out most of the top as close to the mirror as we can. *Once we get that out, we'll try to use the sawzall to cut between the top and the 3/4" thick blocking that is attached to the cabinets. *If the top comes off then we can remove the blocking. How would you go about it? * Any other...better ideas? Thanks Mike O. * Is it possible to use some solvent or lye solution to crumble the particle board? Soak overnight? If the mirror is only 1/4" thick, I'd worry about vibration cracking it. If it's thicker, you're safer. If it's bonded with RTV, you could use a solvent for that. You might also need to worry about staining or etching the silvering if you use liquid, but it's probably protected given its intended use. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 18:05:07 -0500, "Leon"
wrote: A Fein Multimaster could get "reeeeeel" close. I was thinking about the Fein too. I'm going to have to get the top out so the new tops can sit on the cabinets. If I go ahead and cut most of the top out, do you think the Fein will be man enough to cut through 30' of blocking and fasteners to separate the top? Mike O. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:06:38 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote: Is the mirror some etched/frosted thing or just regular mirror? Just regular 1/4" mirror but in big pieces as it goes 4' up the back wall. Such attempts often go just fine until you get one little chip in the glass and the Owner insists on replacement - on your dime. We bid this for a General Contractor and we all agreed that we wouldn't be responsible for the mirror. My guess is that he covered his own butt in that regard with his price.. I think this is a job for - ta da! - the Fein Multimaster! I'd just cut the blocking free from the cabinet and remove the whole top- remnant. Since it's L shaped and has splash on the ends too, it has to come out in pieces. The Fein seems to be the general consensus so it looks like it's time to get one. Mike O. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
"Mike O." wrote: If I go ahead and cut most of the top out, do you think the Fein will be man enough to cut through 30' of blocking and fasteners to separate the top? It will, but how about yougrin? When you buy it get the one with all the blades going in. They really bite you in the rear for after market blade purchases. Lew |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Check under the cabinets for shims. Maybe removing them, if any,
would help the situation. Sonny |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Mike O." wrote: If I go ahead and cut most of the top out, do you think the Fein will be man enough to cut through 30' of blocking and fasteners to separate the top? It will, but how about yougrin? When you buy it get the one with all the blades going in. They really bite you in the rear for after market blade purchases. Lew Fortunately those Fein blades have dropped in price with the competition undercutting their prices. IIRC the Fein 3-packs are about 1/2 the price that they once were. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 21, 8:58*pm, Mike O. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:06:38 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote: Is the mirror some etched/frosted thing or just regular mirror? * Just regular 1/4" mirror but in big pieces as it goes 4' up the back wall. Such attempts often go just fine until you get one little chip in the glass and the Owner insists on replacement - on your dime. We bid this for a General Contractor and we all agreed that we wouldn't be responsible for the mirror. *My guess is that he covered his own butt in that regard with his price.. * I think this is a job for - ta da! - the Fein Multimaster! *I'd just cut the blocking free from the cabinet and remove the whole top- remnant. Since it's L shaped and has splash on the ends too, it has to come out in pieces. *The Fein seems to be the general consensus so it looks like it's time to get one. Mike O. Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Mike O. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 18:05:07 -0500, "Leon" wrote: A Fein Multimaster could get "reeeeeel" close. I was thinking about the Fein too. I'm going to have to get the top out so the new tops can sit on the cabinets. If I go ahead and cut most of the top out, do you think the Fein will be man enough to cut through 30' of blocking and fasteners to separate the top? Yep. Only real limitation is has is its cut depth. Plan on taking your time though--it's not a fast cutter. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Mike O. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:06:38 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote: Is the mirror some etched/frosted thing or just regular mirror? Just regular 1/4" mirror but in big pieces as it goes 4' up the back wall. Such attempts often go just fine until you get one little chip in the glass and the Owner insists on replacement - on your dime. We bid this for a General Contractor and we all agreed that we wouldn't be responsible for the mirror. My guess is that he covered his own butt in that regard with his price.. I think this is a job for - ta da! - the Fein Multimaster! I'd just cut the blocking free from the cabinet and remove the whole top- remnant. Since it's L shaped and has splash on the ends too, it has to come out in pieces. The Fein seems to be the general consensus so it looks like it's time to get one. You're going to be glad you did. It's one of those 'problem solver' tools that you don't grab to start a job but will probably have out before you're done on most of them. Get the "top" kit--that gives you most of the accessories and a good set of blades at a good discount. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Leon wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Mike O." wrote: If I go ahead and cut most of the top out, do you think the Fein will be man enough to cut through 30' of blocking and fasteners to separate the top? It will, but how about yougrin? When you buy it get the one with all the blades going in. They really bite you in the rear for after market blade purchases. Lew Fortunately those Fein blades have dropped in price with the competition undercutting their prices. IIRC the Fein 3-packs are about 1/2 the price that they once were. Heh! HF blades are $5.99 each - and they throw in two scrapers! The scrapers can be turned into cutting blades quite easily. Simply take your rotary Dremel and cut as many 1/16" notches as you can on the business end. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Mike O. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:06:38 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour wrote: Is the mirror some etched/frosted thing or just regular mirror? Just regular 1/4" mirror but in big pieces as it goes 4' up the back wall. Such attempts often go just fine until you get one little chip in the glass and the Owner insists on replacement - on your dime. We bid this for a General Contractor and we all agreed that we wouldn't be responsible for the mirror. My guess is that he covered his own butt in that regard with his price.. I think this is a job for - ta da! - the Fein Multimaster! I'd just cut the blocking free from the cabinet and remove the whole top- remnant. Since it's L shaped and has splash on the ends too, it has to come out in pieces. The Fein seems to be the general consensus so it looks like it's time to get one. Try the Harbor Freight model first. It's about one-tenth the price of a Fein (walk-in-off-the-street $39.95). |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing 1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm so theoretically, it's supposed to go under the mirror. I'm not the granite guy though so all I'm supposed to do is remove the old tops. Mike O. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
"Mike O." wrote in message
... On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing 1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm Maybe 3 cm? |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
"MikeWhy" wrote in message ... "Mike O." wrote in message ... On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing 1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm Maybe 3 cm? Maybe it is some of that new fangled granite VENEER?? |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 22, 10:46*pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote: "MikeWhy" wrote in message ... "Mike O." wrote in message .. . On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing *1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm Maybe 3 cm? Maybe it is some of that new fangled granite VENEER?? Comes in rolls? |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 22, 9:20*pm, Mike O. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing *1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm so theoretically, it's supposed to go under the mirror. *I'm not the granite guy though so all I'm supposed to do is remove the old tops. Mike O. * That will give them 1/4" to play with and that should be all they need. (I knew you meant either 3 cm or 30 mm, an industry standard...unlike some of the wise-asses around here, and I don't mean that in a bad way. G) There is virtually zero 'feel' during a granite/quartz installation, so feel good that it isn't your problem. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 22, 11:46*pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote: "MikeWhy" wrote in message ... "Mike O." wrote in message .. . On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:28:05 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: Will the granite slide under the mirror or be elevated and butt up against the mirror? We're removing *1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm Maybe 3 cm? Maybe it is some of that new fangled granite VENEER?? Hardly newfangled, Lee. Granite veneer has been around a long time. Usually mounted on a honey-comb aluminum back, super thin stone surfaces have been around for use in elevators, vertical surfaces, but it a bit thicker than 3 mm. 1/4" to 3/8" is quite common. Smarty pants. You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Robatoy wrote:
You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 23, 10:55*am, Morris Dovey wrote:
Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ If you had a better understanding of metric, you'd have an extra one to play with...that's what I meant..G |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Morris Dovey wrote:
Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. Was French plot to sabotage noble British exploration efforts. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:25:35 -0500, "MikeWhy"
wrote: We're removing 1 1/2" of top and the granite is 3mm Maybe 3 cm? Ooops, you can tell I'm not the granite guy. Mike O. |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Morris Dovey wrote:
Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. -- If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 23, 10:58*pm, Mark & Juanita wrote:
Morris Dovey wrote: Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. * Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. * * The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 24, 8:27*am, " wrote:
On Jul 23, 10:58*pm, Mark & Juanita wrote: Morris Dovey wrote: Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. * Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. * * The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. Or camshafts for GM's 307 engines.. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
jo4hn wrote:
wrote: .... I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. Mars Climate Orbiter actually. See .... Unfortunately, it seems it be a lesson that continually has to be relearned in virtually every walk of life, technology or no... -- |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
jo4hn writes:
wrote: On Jul 23, 10:58 pm, Mark & Juanita wrote: Morris Dovey wrote: Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. Mars Climate Orbiter actually. See http://www.cnn.com/TECH/space/9909/30/mars.metric/ and no, it was NOT my fault. ;-) jo4hn Back farther, there was the gimli glider units issue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimli_Glider scott |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Mark & Juanita wrote:
The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I agree - and yet the only lesson we seem to learn is recognizing the previous mistakes when we make 'em again. s -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
On Jul 24, 7:34*pm, Dave Balderstone
wrote: In article , Scott Lurndal wrote: Back farther, there was the gimli glider units issue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimli_Glider There were/are many pilots that belived the crew should have been fired rather than made heros. That's a tough one. The heroism manifested itself in some incredible flying skills, and saving the lives of all aboard. However, they should have never been in that situation in the first place. They made the best of a very bad, avoidable situation. That has to account for something. *sitting on the fence here* |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Frankly, Science and Engineering has been in Metric.
Software engineers don't use voltmeters or galvanometers. I want to know where the engineering management unit test was on that. Most unlikely to typical or most all software and hardware processes. Martin Scott Lurndal wrote: jo4hn writes: wrote: On Jul 23, 10:58 pm, Mark & Juanita wrote: Morris Dovey wrote: Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. Mars Climate Orbiter actually. See http://www.cnn.com/TECH/space/9909/30/mars.metric/ and no, it was NOT my fault. ;-) jo4hn Back farther, there was the gimli glider units issue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimli_Glider scott |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: Frankly, Science and Engineering has been in Metric. Software engineers don't use voltmeters or galvanometers. But the hardware (Automobiles, machine tools, etc) are/were in English and that's where the money was invested. Not defending it, just stating reality. Lew |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Software engineers don't use voltmeters or galvanometers. This one will 'fess up to never needing a galvanometer, but I've used a sizable number of scopes (ranging from simple 2-channel Tektronix to an ultra-fast 16-channel recording scope from HP) and fair range of voltage, current, rf-power, capacitance, (etc) meters. Would you allow substitution of a spectrum analyzer for the galvanometer? What makes people nervous is a software engineer with a screwdriver or soldering iron in his hand... -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
|
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
Frankly, Science and Engineering has been in Metric. Depends upon what one is doing and for whom. Aerospace has some very interesting unit choices at times, including combined units, depending upon the end user and customer. For example, there are places that measure altitude in feet and ground range in meters. It's not because people are luddites, it's because that is how the end user works. Software engineers don't use voltmeters or galvanometers. I want to know where the engineering management unit test was on that. Most unlikely to typical or most all software and hardware processes. Martin Scott Lurndal wrote: jo4hn writes: wrote: On Jul 23, 10:58 pm, Mark & Juanita wrote: Morris Dovey wrote: Robatoy wrote: You see, if you 'Murkans had joined the rest of the planet in going metric, you'd also have an extra Mars lander to play with and a better understanding of mm vs cm...:-) I'm not sure - it may be because we didn't join the rest of the planet in going metric that we get to play with 'em on Mars. Well, that and the fact that even if the lander in question had been fully metric throughout the same error could have occurred in the interface -- km being passed instead of m. The real lesson from this is that there is no excuse for not performing careful systems engineering and walking through all interfaces to make sure nothing is missed. I thought we "learned" that lesson from Hubble. Mars Climate Orbiter actually. See http://www.cnn.com/TECH/space/9909/30/mars.metric/ and no, it was NOT my fault. ;-) jo4hn Back farther, there was the gimli glider units issue. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimli_Glider scott -- If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
How would you?
Morris Dovey wrote:
Martin H. Eastburn wrote: Software engineers don't use voltmeters or galvanometers. This one will 'fess up to never needing a galvanometer, but I've used a sizable number of scopes (ranging from simple 2-channel Tektronix to an ultra-fast 16-channel recording scope from HP) and fair range of voltage, current, rf-power, capacitance, (etc) meters. Would you allow substitution of a spectrum analyzer for the galvanometer? What makes people nervous is a software engineer with a screwdriver or soldering iron in his hand... An electrical engineer with a wrench can accomplish the same thing. :-) -- If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough |