Last weekend, I took out the teak patio furniture and noticed that a
number of the checks are getting very big especially at the top of the
legs/backs. So I started wondering if there was anything I could do
to stop this deterioration. My initial idea is to mist the cracks and
then drip in some superglue (something like Titebond Instant Bond Wood
Adhesive) to fill them. Any thoughts?

"Jimbo" wrote in message
...
Last weekend, I took out the teak patio furniture and noticed that a
number of the checks are getting very big especially at the top of the
legs/backs. So I started wondering if there was anything I could do
to stop this deterioration. My initial idea is to mist the cracks and
then drip in some superglue (something like Titebond Instant Bond Wood
Adhesive) to fill them. Any thoughts?


Glue, clamp, and a screw going perpendicular through the crack to pull/hold
it together.

On May 5, 1:56*pm, Jimbo wrote:
Last weekend, I took out the teak patio furniture and noticed that a
number of the checks are getting very big especially at the top of the
legs/backs. *So I started wondering if there was anything I could do
to stop this deterioration. *My initial idea is to mist the cracks and
then drip in some superglue (something like Titebond Instant Bond Wood
Adhesive) to fill them. *Any thoughts?

Checks are not structurally significant unless they get large and lead
to splitting. I may have different ideas about what constitutes a
"very big" check. A picture would be helpful.

One thing I do with exterior wood furniture is to use Git Rot epoxy to
coat the end grain. It's a very thin epoxy that is sucked up by the
wood. You can use a syringe to inject some into the checks. It is
not meant for gap filling, but it will seal the wood so it won't
absorb/lose moisture at a greater rate through the end grain. It will
run everywhere, so be sure to use tape to mask off the other areas,
and to prop the piece in a suitable orientation. If you want to
thicken the epoxy to fill those checks, use some sawdust from sanding
the piece. When you're done you'll want to sand the entire piece.
Teak likes teak oil. Plan on applying some periodically to the entire
piece to prevent further checking. Depending on the condition of the
teak, you may want to use a brightener before starting your work.

R

On May 5, 5:36*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Jimbo" wrote in message

...

Last weekend, I took out the teak patio furniture and noticed that a
number of the checks are getting very big especially at the top of the
legs/backs. *So I started wondering if there was anything I could do
to stop this deterioration. *My initial idea is to mist the cracks and
then drip in some superglue (something like Titebond Instant Bond Wood
Adhesive) to fill them. *Any thoughts?

Glue, clamp, and a screw going perpendicular through the crack to pull/hold
it together.

I tried to clamp some of the larger checks but there is no movement
there at all..

On May 5, 6:36*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On May 5, 1:56*pm, Jimbo wrote:

Last weekend, I took out the teak patio furniture and noticed that a
number of the checks are getting very big especially at the top of the
legs/backs. *So I started wondering if there was anything I could do
to stop this deterioration. *My initial idea is to mist the cracks and
then drip in some superglue (something like Titebond Instant Bond Wood
Adhesive) to fill them. *Any thoughts?

Checks are not structurally significant unless they get large and lead
to splitting. *I may have different ideas about what constitutes a
"very big" check. *A picture would be helpful.

One thing I do with exterior wood furniture is to use Git Rot epoxy to
coat the end grain. *It's a very thin epoxy that is sucked up by the
wood. *You can use a syringe to inject some into the checks. *It is
not meant for gap filling, but it will seal the wood so it won't
absorb/lose moisture at a greater rate through the end grain. *It will
run everywhere, so be sure to use tape to mask off the other areas,
and to prop the piece in a suitable orientation. *If you want to
thicken the epoxy to fill those checks, use some sawdust from sanding
the piece. *When you're done you'll want to sand the entire piece.
Teak likes teak oil. *Plan on applying some periodically to the entire
piece to prevent further checking. *Depending on the condition of the
teak, you may want to use a brightener before starting your work.

R

I'll check out Git Rot.
As for teak oil, doesn't it become an annual job to do if you start to
do it? And also loose the weathered appearance (silver grey) of
weathered teak?

"Jimbo" wrote:
===================================
I'll check out Git Rot.
As for teak oil, doesn't it become an annual job to do if you start to
do it? And also loose the weathered appearance (silver grey) of
weathered teak?
=====================================

Git Rot is a very expensive way of getting epoxy that is diluted with
about 5% denatured alcohol.

Do you want to end up with weathered (silver gray) teak?

Lew

On May 7, 12:08*am, Jimbo wrote:

I'll check out Git Rot.
As for teak oil, doesn't it become an annual job to do if you start to
do it? *And also loose the weathered appearance (silver grey) of
weathered teak?

For a while...

The stuff has to be reapplied according to your aesthetic/labor
sensitivities. Leave it alone and it will weather.

R

On May 7, 12:37*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Jimbo" wrote:

===================================
I'll check out Git Rot.
As for teak oil, doesn't it become an annual job to do if you start to
do it? *And also loose the weathered appearance (silver grey) of
weathered teak?
=====================================

Git Rot is a very expensive way of getting epoxy that is diluted with
about 5% denatured alcohol.

It's also the easiest, it gives the OP a starting point in his
research, he can read the manufacturer's product information, etc. In
other words, it saves _me_ time!

R

On May 7, 12:37*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Jimbo" wrote:

===================================
I'll check out Git Rot.
As for teak oil, doesn't it become an annual job to do if you start to
do it? *And also loose the weathered appearance (silver grey) of
weathered teak?
=====================================

Git Rot is a very expensive way of getting epoxy that is diluted with
about 5% denatured alcohol.

Do you want to end up with weathered (silver gray) teak?

Lew

The Git Rot and the Titebond products both appear to be equally
expensive at around $5 or $6 per oz. The Titebond CA seems to provide
an advantage in that its available in a range of viscosities. One of
the specific applications mentioned is hairline cracks.

And yes, I'd like to keep the weathered look.

"Jimbo" wrote:
=====================================
The Git Rot and the Titebond products both appear to be equally
expensive at around $5 or $6 per oz. The Titebond CA seems to provide
an advantage in that its available in a range of viscosities. One of
the specific applications mentioned is hairline cracks.

And yes, I'd like to keep the weathered look.
=====================================
Buy a gallon kit of laminating epoxy (WEST, System3, etc) for about
$60 and a qt of denatured alcohol for maybe $5 and make all the
diluted epoxy you want.

You realize that after you fill the cracks with epoxy, the cracks will
be plainly visible.

A little tip about working with thinned epoxy.

Don't try to fill the crack all at once.

Tape the bottom of the crack shut with "Blue" tape, then pour in
enough thinned epoxy to seal the bottom of the crack.

When the resin has "kicked", ccome back and finish filling the crack.

This method eliminates spills and runs and make clean-up a lot easier.

If you use this approach, go to Harbor Freight and buy a $5 box of
surgical gloves and a couple of packs of plumbers acid brushes to
apply the epoxy.

Also you will need some 1 OZ and 4 OZ plastic mixing cups.

Restaurant supply houses sell them in tubes of 50 or 100 for a nominal
cost.

Have fun.

Lew

Some added thoughts.

Clean the teak with a soft bristle brush and a bucket of salt water
just
like a swabbie on board a boat.

Teak decks have been cleaned that way for centuries.

Not sure why salt water works better than fresh water, but it does.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Some added thoughts.

Clean the teak with a soft bristle brush and a bucket of salt water
just
like a swabbie on board a boat.

Teak decks have been cleaned that way for centuries.

Not sure why salt water works better than fresh water, but it does.

Lew



FWW has an article on exterior finishes this month. The clear winner
was Epiphanes (sp?). Look at www.smithandcompany.org or
www.woodrestoration.com for more info on how to get more info.
confused?
jo4hn

"jo4hn" wrote:

FWW has an article on exterior finishes this month. The clear
winner was Epiphanes (sp?).

Epifanes gets my vote for marine finishes.

Jamestown Distributors has inventory as well as a broad selection.

Lew

Salt water kills fungus and stuff like that.

If you cut your self - it is best to soak it in salt water.
Kills germs and promotes skin growth.

Martin

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Some added thoughts.

Clean the teak with a soft bristle brush and a bucket of salt water
just
like a swabbie on board a boat.

Teak decks have been cleaned that way for centuries.

Not sure why salt water works better than fresh water, but it does.

Lew