I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0014.html

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:33:05 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote:

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0014.html


....if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside
down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is
still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for
bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial
board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear
the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

On Apr 30, 6:15*pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...y=Gv1sRgCMiypv....

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my *table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built
for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the
piece vertical.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/pnlrasjig.html

Limp Arbor wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:15 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...y=Gv1sRgCMiypv...

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built
for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the
piece vertical.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/pnlrasjig.html

Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help
I
need:


http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current
vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on
one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on
the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Do you own a decent jack or jointer plane? Knocking the corners off to
22-1/2 degrees shouldn't take all that long to do. Probably take less
time then setting this up on a table saw.

Len

On May 1, 9:42*am, Steve Turner wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:15 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...y=Gv1sRgCMiypv....

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my *table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built
for other purposes. *Something along the lines of this to hold the
piece vertical.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/pnlrasjig.html

Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. *He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?

Robatoy wrote:
How ya figgur?

I counted it out on my fingers.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

I agree with the router table solution.

Quick, easy, safe, and "very" accurate.

I own a large 8" jointer and that would not
be my first choice for the project.

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

"Robatoy" wrote

Steve Turner wrote:

Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number of
folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -
22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade vertically, he has
acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less than 45 degrees, he
will achieve what is needed.

A lesson learned long ago, after much effort to do it other ways, is to look
at all cuts from the saw's perspective. Get down to the level of the cutting
table and look at it from the saw blades's perspective. Difficult cuts
become more clear that way. You are not standing over it trying to figure it
out from a vertical human perspective.

Ya know, a zen thing. You are the saw blade. You are wise in the ways of
cutting. You know how to make this cut. Etc, etc. VBG

OK, I got it out of my system. I will now go back into curmudgeon mode now.

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Steve Turner wrote:
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number of
folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -
22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade vertically, he has
acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less than 45 degrees, he
will achieve what is needed.

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the
blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating
surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he
would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2
earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only
bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On May 1, 10:48*am, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:


Ya know, a zen thing. You are the saw blade. You are wise in the ways of
cutting. You know how to make this cut. *Etc, etc. *VBG

I am a rack, I'm a piiiiiiinion... (my apologies to Mr. Paul Simon.)

The universe is the motor. In all reality, the board being cut, stands
still. It is the saw and the entire room that is moving.

OK, I got it out of my system. I will now go back into curmudgeon mode now.

Thanks for the chuckle, grass-hoppa.

I am making cuts on both mating surfaces at 22.5 degrees. That will give me
maxiumum wood to wood contact and will give me an angle of 45 degrees from
the face of the vanity to the shorter section.


"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Steve Turner wrote:
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number
of folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math
skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees
(90 - 22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade
vertically, he has acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less
than 45 degrees, he will achieve what is needed.

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the blade
at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating surface,
now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he would have
to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2 earlier) to get
that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only bevel up to 45
degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On May 1, 12:07*pm, Steve Turner wrote:
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Robatoy" *wrote

Steve Turner *wrote:
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. *And a number of
folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -
22-1/2)". *Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade vertically, he has
acheived his 90 degrees. *And by cutting a bevel less than 45 degrees, he
will achieve what is needed.

I don't know what you guys are on about. *He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the
blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating
surface, now can he? *He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he
would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2
earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only
bevel up to 45 degrees. *Am I missing something here? *:-)


Yeah it is Friday.

You're right but he could easily make a sled that is at 22 1/2 deg and
make the cut with the blade at 45. Or...
make a 45deg sled and bevel the blade to 22 1/2 or...
make a 30deg sled and ...

like this:
http://tinyurl.com/dkechr
or (watch wrap)
http://books.google.com/books?id=TE1...esult&resnum=5

I'm not quite following this suggestion Charlie. I do have a left tilting
blade. At full extension, I have about 24.5 inches from fence to blade. The
face frame is 27" wide.

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:33:05 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote:

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity
as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0014.html


...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside
down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is
still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for
bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial
board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear
the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
On Apr 30, 6:15 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...y=Gv1sRgCMiypv...

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity
as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having
it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces
of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece
to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is.
My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built
for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the
piece vertical.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/pnlrasjig.html

This could work. I have not made a panel rasing jig though I have certainly
seen plenty of plans for making one in addition to one Norm made at some
point.

"Len" wrote in message
.. .

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help
I
need:


http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current
vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on
one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on
the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Do you own a decent jack or jointer plane? Knocking the corners off to
22-1/2 degrees shouldn't take all that long to do. Probably take less
time then setting this up on a table saw.

Len

I do not own a jack plane but I would think it would be tough to get so
precise an angle. However, since I don't own one I don't know what I am
talking about!

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...

"Len" wrote in message
.. .

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The
current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look
here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the
help
I
need:



http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current
vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape
on
one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it
as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame
to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the
fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame
on
the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Do you own a decent jack or jointer plane? Knocking the corners off
to
22-1/2 degrees shouldn't take all that long to do. Probably take
less
time then setting this up on a table saw.

Len

I do not own a jack plane but I would think it would be tough to get
so
precise an angle. However, since I don't own one I don't know what I
am
talking about!


Set a bevel gauge for 22-1/2 degrees and check as you go. Same way you'd
check the angles on slats for a wooden bucket.

Len

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making cuts on both mating surfaces at 22.5 degrees. That will give me
maxiumum wood to wood contact and will give me an angle of 45 degrees from
the face of the vanity to the shorter section.

wouldn't it be a lot easier to make a 45 in one side, and leave the other at
90? sure, it's a bit longer, but that shouldn't affect anything.


"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Steve Turner wrote:
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a
number of folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in
math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees
(90 - 22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade
vertically, he has acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less
than 45 degrees, he will achieve what is needed.

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the blade
at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating
surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he
would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2
earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only
bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

It WOULD be easier and I tried that on a test scrap. Then I realized that I
had different width gluing surfaces but more importantly it would be
difficult to cut a backer block with 22.5 degree angle cuts on each side to
glue to the inside of the joint so it would press against the back of the
joint to make a nice secure assembly. With a 45 degree glued to a 90 degree,
the hypotunuse left after the 45 degree cut is just a hair over an inch
glued to a 3/4" piece of wood.
"charlie" wrote in message
...

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making cuts on both mating surfaces at 22.5 degrees. That will give
me maxiumum wood to wood contact and will give me an angle of 45 degrees
from the face of the vanity to the shorter section.

wouldn't it be a lot easier to make a 45 in one side, and leave the other
at 90? sure, it's a bit longer, but that shouldn't affect anything.


"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Steve Turner wrote:
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

How ya figgur?
==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a
number of folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in
math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees
(90 - 22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade
vertically, he has acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel
less than 45 degrees, he will achieve what is needed.

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the
blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating
surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he
would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2
earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only
bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Fri, 01 May 2009 18:17:11 GMT, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I'm not quite following this suggestion Charlie. I do have a left tilting
blade. At full extension, I have about 24.5 inches from fence to blade. The
face frame is 27" wide.

....yanno, after reading the other responses, I think your answer is in
the sled idea...but you approach it from the non-fence side of the
blade with your frame upside-down (yes, there'll be a bit of tearout,
depending on sharpness and what species you're working with, but if
you're paint grade that's not a problem)...just a piece of ply on
runners with a rail to back it would be all you'd need.

On another tack, if you post your responses *after*...or on the
bottom...of the post you are responding to, threads remain consistent
and someone coming in late will be able to follow more easily...I'm
sure with the crew in here, you'll find what's right for you...if
anything, you'll gain appreciation for the fact that there are as many
ways of doing something as there are people on the planet! LOL...

cg

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:33:05 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote:

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity
as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0014.html


...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside
down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is
still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for
bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial
board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear
the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity
as seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on
one end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees
each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces
of the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However, the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between
the blade and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a
firm piece to put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I
do it as is. My one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the
face frame to a solid piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly
against the fence (the backer board would actually against the fence with
the face frame on the front of the backer board). Does anyone have a
better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I have gotten two ideas in addition to my thought about using the jointer.

Rather than use double stick tape, I used a piece of 1/2" of Baltic Birch
plywood clamped to the face frame and did a few dry runs through the
jointer. With the jointer fence angled down toward the bed at a 22.5 degree
angle, the whole thing is kind of heavy and I think I will not be able to
keep the 1/2" backer board tight to the jointer fence the whole time and
multiple times as I make enough passes to remove all the material (my face
frame is oak).

An early idea was to use a 22.5 degree chamfer bit in my router table (more
on this in a second).

Then there was discussion about using a panel raising jig so that I could
make the cut with the face frame in a vertical manner so the fence to saw
blade distance is no longer an issue.

I rejected (without commenting) the chamfer bit as I really wanted to make
the cut on each of the two faces at 22.7 degrees so that the outer (visible)
edge of the joint would be nice and tight when I glued the two pieces up.
Maybe that was a silly quibble. I think the chamfer bit is the way for me
to go. As some point I will need to make a panel raising jig but I don't
have one now and the Rockler store where I can get the bit tomorrow is not
terribly far away from me.

So that is the direction I will take. Assuming my test cuts go well, I will
be in business. If not, I will own a new router bit and I will be building a
panel raising jig. Thanks all for your help. This group has almost never
failed me when I have had a problem I needed your help with.

Thanks everyone. I will report back after I have used the chamfer bit
tomorrow or Sunday!

Dick

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 May 2009 18:17:11 GMT, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I'm not quite following this suggestion Charlie. I do have a left tilting
blade. At full extension, I have about 24.5 inches from fence to blade.
The
face frame is 27" wide.

...yanno, after reading the other responses, I think your answer is in
the sled idea...but you approach it from the non-fence side of the
blade with your frame upside-down (yes, there'll be a bit of tearout,
depending on sharpness and what species you're working with, but if
you're paint grade that's not a problem)...just a piece of ply on
runners with a rail to back it would be all you'd need.

On another tack, if you post your responses *after*...or on the
bottom...of the post you are responding to, threads remain consistent
and someone coming in late will be able to follow more easily...I'm
sure with the crew in here, you'll find what's right for you...if
anything, you'll gain appreciation for the fact that there are as many
ways of doing something as there are people on the planet! LOL...

cg

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:33:05 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote:

Dick Snyder wrote:
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here
you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help
I
need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current
vanity
as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on
one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining
faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the
blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm
piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as
is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a
solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence
(the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on
the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0014.html


...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside
down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is
still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for
bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial
board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear
the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

Sorry about posting my replies in the wrong place vis a vis the message
being replied to.

"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 01 May 2009 18:17:11 GMT, "Dick Snyder"

On another tack, if you post your responses *after*...or on the
bottom...of the post you are responding to, threads remain consistent
and someone coming in late will be able to follow more easily...


The PIA about that is there are so many twits out there that post something
like "I agree" at the end of a 300 word post. This is made even worse by the
people that don't use the symbol on quoted text. Some of these at least
use a line, though some just use a couple of spaces. In either case, you are
left hunting for the end of one post and the beginning of another.

On Fri, 1 May 2009 20:13:02 -0700, "CW"
wrote:


"Charlie Groh" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 01 May 2009 18:17:11 GMT, "Dick Snyder"

On another tack, if you post your responses *after*...or on the
bottom...of the post you are responding to, threads remain consistent
and someone coming in late will be able to follow more easily...


The PIA about that is there are so many twits out there that post something
like "I agree" at the end of a 300 word post. This is made even worse by the
people that don't use the symbol on quoted text. Some of these at least
use a line, though some just use a couple of spaces. In either case, you are
left hunting for the end of one post and the beginning of another.

....we're singing from the same hymnal...the longer posts get, the more
of a pain in the rear. snipping helps after all else fails...it
takes some time for somebody to become familiar with netiquette...I'm
still learning, too...

cg

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current
vanity has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look
here you will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the
help I need:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dicksnyd...MiypvXqjZ7mHg#

I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity
as seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on
one end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still
having it deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees
each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces
of the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the
narrow face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw.
However, the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between
the blade and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a
firm piece to put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if
I do it as is. My one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the
face frame to a solid piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly
against the fence (the backer board would actually against the fence with
the face frame on the front of the backer board). Does anyone have a
better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

I have gotten two ideas in addition to my thought about using the jointer.

Rather than use double stick tape, I used a piece of 1/2" of Baltic Birch
plywood clamped to the face frame and did a few dry runs through the
jointer. With the jointer fence angled down toward the bed at a 22.5
degree angle, the whole thing is kind of heavy and I think I will not be
able to keep the 1/2" backer board tight to the jointer fence the whole
time and multiple times as I make enough passes to remove all the material
(my face frame is oak).

An early idea was to use a 22.5 degree chamfer bit in my router table
(more on this in a second).

Then there was discussion about using a panel raising jig so that I could
make the cut with the face frame in a vertical manner so the fence to saw
blade distance is no longer an issue.

I rejected (without commenting) the chamfer bit as I really wanted to make
the cut on each of the two faces at 22.7 degrees so that the outer
(visible) edge of the joint would be nice and tight when I glued the two
pieces up. Maybe that was a silly quibble. I think the chamfer bit is the
way for me to go. As some point I will need to make a panel raising jig
but I don't have one now and the Rockler store where I can get the bit
tomorrow is not terribly far away from me.

So that is the direction I will take. Assuming my test cuts go well, I
will be in business. If not, I will own a new router bit and I will be
building a panel raising jig. Thanks all for your help. This group has
almost never failed me when I have had a problem I needed your help with.

Thanks everyone. I will report back after I have used the chamfer bit
tomorrow or Sunday!

Dick

Final report: this morning I got the 22.5 degree chamfer bit at Rockler.
Everything came out fine. Thanks to Morris Dovey for the suggestion and
thanks again to all of you for your help. I have not only completed this
step of my project successfully, I learned some other ways to solve this
kind of problem for the future.

Dick