After watching the video (
http://www.netexperts.cc/~lambertm/Wood/lynnjig.html ) I decided it looked
great and fun and so I built one. That is where the trouble started.

The first thing I realized is that my Forrest WWII 3/32" blade cuts a kerf
..105 thick, not .09375. Well, that equats to 3.38 turns of the handle for
a blade width instead of 3 turns. Have you tried to turn .38 turns over
and over and not lose track of where the hell you are? It ain't easy.

So, plan B is implemented. I load the dado stack and tune with shims to
.250. Now all I have to do is cut, turn 16, cut, turn 16, etc.... Yeah
right. I built my jig out of 7/8" thick white oak. There is no
discernable side to side play in the threads and yet it will not cut joints
to my satisfaction. Additionally, If you get lost on your way counting to
16 for the umpteenth time, you have to try and rezero, which means backing
up, adding the slop back into the mix and it never comes out right.

I was also trying to save time by cutting a set one way then cutting back
the other way with another stack of wood. Well, you get used to turning
int one way and then find yourself going the wrong direction and losing
count on how to get back.

I trashed a pile of good maple today, after having precisely cut and planed
it till I got fed up and figured there must be an easier way than this jig.
I was fully aware of the indexing jigs with the keyway but most of them
only cut one board at a time, are still susceptible to accumulation and
slop errors. I wanted something even better.

They say necessity is the mother of invention. I love the simple ideas and
should have known that Lynn's jig was too complex. Here's what I came up
with, and I've searched the internet and I've never seen anyone
recommending this method. Surely it has been thought of before, but I
haven't seen it.

I thought, with a 1/4" box joint, I need an accurate way to move WXACTLY
1/2" after every cut with my 1/4" dado. How bout I rip a 1/2" strip of
hardwood and cut it into the number of box joints I need so I wind up with
8 - 1/2" strips about 6" long. Realize, when I say I ripped them 1/2", I'm
talking 0.500 as measured by my digital calipers. The dado kerf was tuned
the same way or it won't work.

Ok, I place them all together on my crosscut sled and clamp a stop block to
position this stack of spacers EXACTLY on the edge of the kerf to the left
of the dado blade so from left to right I have Stop block, 8 1/2" strips,
kerf.

Now I clamp 4 box sides together, perfectly flush, jam them HARD against
the spacer stack and feed it through the blade. Take out a spacer, jam and
cut, repeat till done.

I cut 4 at a time fast, safe, precise and the fit great. This principal
could be used for finger joints too. Simple mic the kerf and rip the
spacers the exact same width.

Watch ya'll think? I like it. A pic is worth a thousand words:

http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/boxjoint.jpg

KISS principal. Gotta love it.

Great Idea.
another one of those " Why didn't I think of that.?

.. wanna buy a Newly built Lynns Jig?? although I have had failry good Luck
with the Small Boxes I built..


"Bruce" wrote in message
...
After watching the video (
http://www.netexperts.cc/~lambertm/Wood/lynnjig.html ) I decided it looked
great and fun and so I built one. That is where the trouble started.

The first thing I realized is that my Forrest WWII 3/32" blade cuts a kerf
.105 thick, not .09375. Well, that equats to 3.38 turns of the handle for
a blade width instead of 3 turns. Have you tried to turn .38 turns over
and over and not lose track of where the hell you are? It ain't easy.

So, plan B is implemented. I load the dado stack and tune with shims to
250. Now all I have to do is cut, turn 16, cut, turn 16, etc.... Yeah
right. I built my jig out of 7/8" thick white oak. There is no
discernable side to side play in the threads and yet it will not cut
joints
to my satisfaction. Additionally, If you get lost on your way counting to
16 for the umpteenth time, you have to try and rezero, which means backing
up, adding the slop back into the mix and it never comes out right.

I was also trying to save time by cutting a set one way then cutting back
the other way with another stack of wood. Well, you get used to turning
int one way and then find yourself going the wrong direction and losing
count on how to get back.

I trashed a pile of good maple today, after having precisely cut and
planed
it till I got fed up and figured there must be an easier way than this
jig.
I was fully aware of the indexing jigs with the keyway but most of them
only cut one board at a time, are still susceptible to accumulation and
slop errors. I wanted something even better.

They say necessity is the mother of invention. I love the simple ideas
and
should have known that Lynn's jig was too complex. Here's what I came up
with, and I've searched the internet and I've never seen anyone
recommending this method. Surely it has been thought of before, but I
haven't seen it.

I thought, with a 1/4" box joint, I need an accurate way to move WXACTLY
1/2" after every cut with my 1/4" dado. How bout I rip a 1/2" strip of
hardwood and cut it into the number of box joints I need so I wind up with
8 - 1/2" strips about 6" long. Realize, when I say I ripped them 1/2",
I'm
talking 0.500 as measured by my digital calipers. The dado kerf was tuned
the same way or it won't work.

Ok, I place them all together on my crosscut sled and clamp a stop block
to
position this stack of spacers EXACTLY on the edge of the kerf to the left
of the dado blade so from left to right I have Stop block, 8 1/2" strips,
kerf.

Now I clamp 4 box sides together, perfectly flush, jam them HARD against
the spacer stack and feed it through the blade. Take out a spacer, jam
and
cut, repeat till done.

I cut 4 at a time fast, safe, precise and the fit great. This principal
could be used for finger joints too. Simple mic the kerf and rip the
spacers the exact same width.

Watch ya'll think? I like it. A pic is worth a thousand words:

http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/boxjoint.jpg

KISS principal. Gotta love it.

In rec.woodworking
"Gregory Jensen" wrote:

Great Idea.
another one of those " Why didn't I think of that.?

Thanks! The simple ones are always like that aren't they?

. wanna buy a Newly built Lynns Jig?? although I have had failry good Luck
with the Small Boxes I built..

LOL! Nah, I have one I'm trying to get rid of

In rec.woodworking
(Bruce) wrote:

This principal
could be used for finger joints too. Simply mic the kerf and rip the
spacers the exact same width.

Correction! Rip the strips 2X the width of the kerf, sorry.

You have rediscovered a technique used by watchmakers for over 150 years.


"Bruce" wrote in message
...
After watching the video (
http://www.netexperts.cc/~lambertm/Wood/lynnjig.html ) I decided it looked
great and fun and so I built one. That is where the trouble started.

The first thing I realized is that my Forrest WWII 3/32" blade cuts a kerf
.105 thick, not .09375. Well, that equats to 3.38 turns of the handle for
a blade width instead of 3 turns. Have you tried to turn .38 turns over
and over and not lose track of where the hell you are? It ain't easy.

So, plan B is implemented. I load the dado stack and tune with shims to
250. Now all I have to do is cut, turn 16, cut, turn 16, etc.... Yeah
right. I built my jig out of 7/8" thick white oak. There is no
discernable side to side play in the threads and yet it will not cut
joints
to my satisfaction. Additionally, If you get lost on your way counting to
16 for the umpteenth time, you have to try and rezero, which means backing
up, adding the slop back into the mix and it never comes out right.

I was also trying to save time by cutting a set one way then cutting back
the other way with another stack of wood. Well, you get used to turning
int one way and then find yourself going the wrong direction and losing
count on how to get back.

I trashed a pile of good maple today, after having precisely cut and
planed
it till I got fed up and figured there must be an easier way than this
jig.
I was fully aware of the indexing jigs with the keyway but most of them
only cut one board at a time, are still susceptible to accumulation and
slop errors. I wanted something even better.

They say necessity is the mother of invention. I love the simple ideas
and
should have known that Lynn's jig was too complex. Here's what I came up
with, and I've searched the internet and I've never seen anyone
recommending this method. Surely it has been thought of before, but I
haven't seen it.

I thought, with a 1/4" box joint, I need an accurate way to move WXACTLY
1/2" after every cut with my 1/4" dado. How bout I rip a 1/2" strip of
hardwood and cut it into the number of box joints I need so I wind up with
8 - 1/2" strips about 6" long. Realize, when I say I ripped them 1/2",
I'm
talking 0.500 as measured by my digital calipers. The dado kerf was tuned
the same way or it won't work.

Ok, I place them all together on my crosscut sled and clamp a stop block
to
position this stack of spacers EXACTLY on the edge of the kerf to the left
of the dado blade so from left to right I have Stop block, 8 1/2" strips,
kerf.

Now I clamp 4 box sides together, perfectly flush, jam them HARD against
the spacer stack and feed it through the blade. Take out a spacer, jam
and
cut, repeat till done.

I cut 4 at a time fast, safe, precise and the fit great. This principal
could be used for finger joints too. Simple mic the kerf and rip the
spacers the exact same width.

Watch ya'll think? I like it. A pic is worth a thousand words:

http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/boxjoint.jpg

KISS principal. Gotta love it.

And published in most basic woodworking texts for at least the last fifty.

I'm really dense, I guess, but where's the "accumulating error?" Each pair
is referenced to itself. Set the jig properly and press on.

Router still my preference.

"CW" wrote in message
...
You have rediscovered a technique used by watchmakers for over 150 years.


"Bruce" wrote in message
I was fully aware of the indexing jigs with the keyway but most of them
only cut one board at a time, are still susceptible to accumulation and
slop errors. I wanted something even better.

In rec.woodworking
"CW" wrote:

You have rediscovered a technique used by watchmakers for over 150 years.

Like I said, it was too simple to think it was an original idea, but it was
for me. What part of watchmaking uses this? Making gears?

In rec.woodworking
"George" wrote:

And published in most basic woodworking texts for at least the last fifty.

Makes me look pretty smart then I guess since I didn't read any of those.

I'm really dense, I guess, but where's the "accumulating error?" Each pair
is referenced to itself. Set the jig properly and press on.

If you're indexing pin is off by .005", the width of a dollar bill, by the
time you do 10 cuts, you're nearly a 1/16" away from where you should be.
My method has no accumulation like that and is self correcting. Any joints
cut this way will fit either direction. Flip yours 180 and you'll magnify
that 1/16" 2X and will never get it together.

Router still my preference.

If I had a miter slot near my router, I'd have used it with the same
technique, but I don't. I would still bet I'm faster with a table saw than
a router though. As long as you have a dado that cuts a flat bottom, I see
no reason to use a router.

Drilling the mounting plates.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
In rec.woodworking
"CW" wrote:

You have rediscovered a technique used by watchmakers for over 150 years.

Like I said, it was too simple to think it was an original idea, but it
was
for me. What part of watchmaking uses this? Making gears?

Most places regard education more highly than reinvention. Less time, and
less "cumulative" errors.

Each pair is independent. As with your method, the pair consists of a space
made by the bit - constant- and a reference distance. In your case, removal
of the spacer, in the case of tablesaw and router jigs, rereference of the
new pair to the original pin.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
In rec.woodworking
"George" wrote:

And published in most basic woodworking texts for at least the last
fifty.

Makes me look pretty smart then I guess since I didn't read any of those.

In rec.woodworking
"George" wrote:

Most places regard education more highly than reinvention. Less time, and
less "cumulative" errors.

George, are you deliberately trying to be argumentative? I certainly value
education but if I'm lost on a dessert island, I'll take the inventive high
school dropout with a high IQ over the PhD anyday.

Each pair is independent. As with your method, the pair consists of a space
made by the bit - constant- and a reference distance. In your case, removal
of the spacer, in the case of tablesaw and router jigs, rereference of the
new pair to the original pin.

You don't understand cumulative error and I don't care to explain it to
you. Go measure a football field with a ruler and a 100' tape and compare
the results.

Or _you_ might consider reading over floundering.

LMAO

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
In rec.woodworking
"George" wrote:

Most places regard education more highly than reinvention. Less time,
and
less "cumulative" errors.

George, are you deliberately trying to be argumentative? I certainly
value
education but if I'm lost on a dessert island, I'll take the inventive
high
school dropout with a high IQ over the PhD anyday.

Each pair is independent. As with your method, the pair consists of a
space
made by the bit - constant- and a reference distance. In your case,
removal
of the spacer, in the case of tablesaw and router jigs, rereference of
the
new pair to the original pin.

You don't understand cumulative error and I don't care to explain it to
you. Go measure a football field with a ruler and a 100' tape and compare
the results.

George wrote:
Or _you_ might consider reading over floundering.


Is that supposed to be like a ship caught on the rocks? If so, it's "founder";
not "flounder (like the fish).



The Spelling Police

In rec.woodworking
"George" wrote:

Or _you_ might consider reading over floundering.

You're a real prick George. I'd bet $1000 right now that I read more in a
year than you do in 5 years and I'm not talking dime store novels. In any
event, I'm saying a prayer tonite that you and I cross paths one day so I
can teach you some manners.

Flounder, as in flop like a fish, just as written.

Compensating errors in the side pairs is beyond his comprehension.

Those who reinvent the wheel spend a lot of time running in circles.

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
m...
George wrote:
Or _you_ might consider reading over floundering.


Is that supposed to be like a ship caught on the rocks? If so, it's
"founder";
not "flounder (like the fish).



The Spelling Police