Here is what I do, but in no means suggesting you do yourself (end
disclaimer):

This is a popular method on the aquarium NGs, and is nothing new.

The Problem:
I had older 4' 2-tube fixtures that flickered when the shop was chilly and
were just plain dim on all other occasions. The ballasts were the old,
heavy, inefficient magnetic ones that are so ubiquitous in shops. The
fixtures themselves disassemble easily, and have plenty of room for the
ballasts inside.

The Solution:
Home Depot carries Advance Instant-Start Electronic Ballasts (REL-4P32-SC),
This ballast is light as a feather, and designed for (3) or (4) bulbs,
However; they will successfully operate (2) bulbs at double the line
current, and double the brightness) if wired up so.

How to do:
Remove the old ballast, toss in trash. Install the new ballast in place, it
should be a direct replacement. Ignore the diagram on the label, take the
two blue wires to one lamp socket, the two red wires to the adjacent
socket. The two yellow wires go one each of the opposite sockets, with a
short jumper wire connected between the two remaining terminals of those
sockets. The ballast has thermal protection so will not explode if wired
incorrectly. I cut, and splice using barrel connectors and crimp.

Get rid of those old tubes, and install some new T-8's. They are the 1"
diameter tubes so popular in Canada, they are more efficient then the 1.5"
tubes most of have. HD carries them too.

This works well for me, and thought I would share since I have taken so much
helpful info from this NG.

Be careful,

DJ

OK Great .. so NOW I have a four light fixture
One ballast does three bulbs and the other ballast does one bulb..( two
Ballast per fixture )
so I should get two of the replacement ballasts for each fixture ( each new
ballast running two Light s) Just wire them per your instructions blue to
one bulb, red to the other bulb and yellow ( Bridged) for the other
end...and I will have light??
OK I'm Heading to HD.
thanks


"DJ" wrote in message
news:48eVb.194399$Rc4.1627853@attbi_s54...
Here is what I do, but in no means suggesting you do yourself (end
disclaimer):

This is a popular method on the aquarium NGs, and is nothing new.

The Problem:
I had older 4' 2-tube fixtures that flickered when the shop was chilly and
were just plain dim on all other occasions. The ballasts were the old,
heavy, inefficient magnetic ones that are so ubiquitous in shops. The
fixtures themselves disassemble easily, and have plenty of room for the
ballasts inside.

The Solution:
Home Depot carries Advance Instant-Start Electronic Ballasts
(REL-4P32-SC),
This ballast is light as a feather, and designed for (3) or (4) bulbs,
However; they will successfully operate (2) bulbs at double the line
current, and double the brightness) if wired up so.

How to do:
Remove the old ballast, toss in trash. Install the new ballast in place,
it
should be a direct replacement. Ignore the diagram on the label, take the
two blue wires to one lamp socket, the two red wires to the adjacent
socket. The two yellow wires go one each of the opposite sockets, with a
short jumper wire connected between the two remaining terminals of those
sockets. The ballast has thermal protection so will not explode if wired
incorrectly. I cut, and splice using barrel connectors and crimp.

Get rid of those old tubes, and install some new T-8's. They are the 1"
diameter tubes so popular in Canada, they are more efficient then the 1.5"
tubes most of have. HD carries them too.

This works well for me, and thought I would share since I have taken so
much
helpful info from this NG.

Be careful,

DJ

So how much does the new ballast and bulbs cost? Probably more that my
$10 fixtures, but anything that adds more light is a plus.

Any suggestions NOT using Fluorecents??

Call me crazy but I can see the flicker even when new and even when
warm. They just plain hurt my eyes. I also do not like the color
they give off. While the natural (or daylight) versions are better
they are not quite good enough. Currently I am planning (for a 12 x
15 basement shop) on using 4 ceiling 60W incandecents and few task
spot lights say at the Table Saw, Router and work bench.

Always open to ideas though.

Daryl

"JohnT." wrote in message ...
So how much does the new ballast and bulbs cost? Probably more that my
$10 fixtures, but anything that adds more light is a plus.

If your'e able to see the flicker (I can't, but I've heard people can), try
the newer electronic flourescents. The electrononics convert the 60Hz
signal to a higher frequency (400 Hz I think) - you shouldn't be able to see
anything (I believe the hum sound is reduced as well).

Mine are HD cheapos - about $12 each (plus the T8 tubes - which are pricey)
for a 2 * 32Watt tube unit.

Ian
"daryl1138" wrote in message
m...
Any suggestions NOT using Fluorecents??

Call me crazy but I can see the flicker even when new and even when
warm. They just plain hurt my eyes. I also do not like the color
they give off. While the natural (or daylight) versions are better
they are not quite good enough. Currently I am planning (for a 12 x
15 basement shop) on using 4 ceiling 60W incandecents and few task
spot lights say at the Table Saw, Router and work bench.

Always open to ideas though.

Daryl

"JohnT." wrote in message
...
So how much does the new ballast and bulbs cost? Probably more that my
$10 fixtures, but anything that adds more light is a plus.

You apparently don't know much about electricity. Let's see, that
ballast is really a transformer. Have you ever seen a transformer blow
up in a rain storm? Yes they are thermal protected if they are hooked
up right. If you by-passed a few wires in your TV, do you think the
circuit would still be protected. Sometime you should take an 8' two
element fluorescent fixture and run it for 3 months without one of the
bulbs. Then replace the bulb. Oh, you don't even need to remove a
bulb, just let one go out with the end turning black. If you put a new
bulb in, it won't light because the ballast burned out that side of the
ballast, not some protection popped out.

I'd bet that if I could contact your homeowners insurance company and
informed them the danger you have, you'd be without insurance. And if
you move, and there is an inspection on the house before it is sold,
you'll have to fix it.

Now that we disclosed all of the stupidity that you have, why didn't you
go to an electric shop and purchase a ballast that will operate in a
lower temperature than what you have. Most home center stores sell
their fixtures and ballasts for interior areas where they are heated.
You could have also accomplished the same thing by using a transformer
and starter, but it may take some time in turning on the lights.

BTW, if you have a fire, the insurance investigation will reveal that
the lights were not wired right and they may not pay for your house to
be rebuilt. Are you willing to give that up for a little better light?

OTOH, if you were to direct some heat onto the lights or heat the room
prior to turning on the lights then maybe that would work for you.

I'd like to know what the NEC code would say about this. I'm sure they
ave seen this done and know what the consequences are.

PS. Advance will not warrant the ballasts and will not be returnable to
HD.

--

Stupid wrote (DJ)

Here is what I do, but in no means suggesting you do yourself (end
disclaimer):
This is a popular method on the aquarium NGs, and is nothing new.
(These guys have their heads under water or up their .....)

The Problem:

I had older 4' 2-tube fixtures that flickered when the shop was
chilly and were just plain dim on all other occasions. The ballasts
were the old, heavy, inefficient magnetic ones that are so ubiquitous
in
shops. The fixtures themselves disassemble easily, and have plenty
of room for the ballasts inside.

The Solution:

Home Depot carries Advance Instant-Start Electronic Ballasts (REL-
4P32-SC), This ballast is light as a feather, and designed for (3) or
(4) bulbs, However; they will successfully operate (2) bulbs at
double the line current, and double the brightness) if wired up so.

How to do:

Remove the old ballast, toss in trash. Install the new ballast in
place,
it should be a direct replacement. Ignore the diagram on the label,
take the two blue wires to one lamp socket, the two red wires to
the adjacent socket. The two yellow wires go one each of the opposite
sockets, with a short jumper wire connected between the two
remaining terminals of those sockets. The ballast has thermal
protection so will not explode if wired incorrectly. I cut, and
splice using barrel connectors and crimp.

Get rid of those old tubes, and install some new T-8's. They are the
1" diameter tubes so popular in Canada, they are more efficient then
the 1.5" tubes most of have. HD carries them too.

The standard bulb is 1.2 inches. Each T-10 is 1", I have an F8T5 which
is an 8 watt 1/2" thick, you figure what's right.

This works well for me, and thought I would share since I have taken
so much helpful info from this NG.
Be careful,
DJ

--
Woody


Check out my Web Page at:

http://community-1.webtv.net/Woodwor...workerJoesInfo

Where you will find:

******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03

* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.1-14-03
* * * What is a Real Woodworker? 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions. 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Laws. 4-6-03
* * * What is the true meaning of life? 1-14-03
* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03

On 9 Feb 2004 18:58:32 -0800, (daryl1138) wrote:

Any suggestions NOT using Fluorecents??

Call me crazy but I can see the flicker even when new and even when
warm. They just plain hurt my eyes. I also do not like the color
they give off. While the natural (or daylight) versions are better
they are not quite good enough. Currently I am planning (for a 12 x
15 basement shop) on using 4 ceiling 60W incandecents and few task
spot lights say at the Table Saw, Router and work bench.

Always open to ideas though.

Daryl


right now I'm using about 8 or 10 of those yellow halogen work lights.
they run hot, but in the winter that's a good thing.

(daryl1138) wrote in message om...
Any suggestions NOT using Fluorecents??

What I have is a 24 x 26 shop and I light it with 9 fluorescents with
2 40 watt bulbs each and have 4 65 watt halogen fixtures for the work
areas. The halogens are only about 5 feet above the work areas so I
use holgen floodlights. The floods are still concentrated in a small
well lighted area at that distance for measuring and close work. At 70
I need maybe a little more light than you younger guys. I installed
tracks so I can add or move the halogens around as it suits me.

Works for me. Enjoy all the knowledge here and the help you have given
me. I build furniture and have been at it since I retired. The "Did
you build that" is priceless.

Bill in New Mexico

(Joe "Woody" Woodpecker) wrote in message ...
You apparently don't know much about electricity. Let's see, that
ballast is really a transformer. Have you ever seen a transformer blow
up in a rain storm? Yes they are thermal protected if they are hooked
up right. If you by-passed a few wires in your TV, do you think the
circuit would still be protected. Sometime you should take an 8' two
element fluorescent fixture and run it for 3 months without one of the
bulbs. Then replace the bulb. Oh, you don't even need to remove a
bulb, just let one go out with the end turning black. If you put a new
bulb in, it won't light because the ballast burned out that side of the
ballast, not some protection popped out.

I'd bet that if I could contact your homeowners insurance company and
informed them the danger you have, you'd be without insurance. And if
you move, and there is an inspection on the house before it is sold,
you'll have to fix it.

Now that we disclosed all of the stupidity that you have, why didn't you
go to an electric shop and purchase a ballast that will operate in a
lower temperature than what you have. Most home center stores sell
their fixtures and ballasts for interior areas where they are heated.
You could have also accomplished the same thing by using a transformer
and starter, but it may take some time in turning on the lights.

BTW, if you have a fire, the insurance investigation will reveal that
the lights were not wired right and they may not pay for your house to
be rebuilt. Are you willing to give that up for a little better light?

OTOH, if you were to direct some heat onto the lights or heat the room
prior to turning on the lights then maybe that would work for you.

I'd like to know what the NEC code would say about this. I'm sure they
ave seen this done and know what the consequences are.

PS. Advance will not warrant the ballasts and will not be returnable to
HD.


man, take a breath.

Totally uncalled for rant. A simple explanation of the error to this
individual would have sufficed, to say the least... and without the name
calling.

John V

Oh, and Yes, I do believe electricity is dangerous and should be treated
with respect.




"Joe "Woody" Woodpecker" wrote in message
...
You apparently don't know much about electricity. Let's see, that
ballast is really a transformer. Have you ever seen a transformer blow
up in a rain storm? Yes they are thermal protected if they are hooked
up right. If you by-passed a few wires in your TV, do you think the
circuit would still be protected. Sometime you should take an 8' two
element fluorescent fixture and run it for 3 months without one of the
bulbs. Then replace the bulb. Oh, you don't even need to remove a
bulb, just let one go out with the end turning black. If you put a new
bulb in, it won't light because the ballast burned out that side of the
ballast, not some protection popped out.

I'd bet that if I could contact your homeowners insurance company and
informed them the danger you have, you'd be without insurance. And if
you move, and there is an inspection on the house before it is sold,
you'll have to fix it.

Now that we disclosed all of the stupidity that you have, why didn't you
go to an electric shop and purchase a ballast that will operate in a
lower temperature than what you have. Most home center stores sell
their fixtures and ballasts for interior areas where they are heated.
You could have also accomplished the same thing by using a transformer
and starter, but it may take some time in turning on the lights.

BTW, if you have a fire, the insurance investigation will reveal that
the lights were not wired right and they may not pay for your house to
be rebuilt. Are you willing to give that up for a little better light?

OTOH, if you were to direct some heat onto the lights or heat the room
prior to turning on the lights then maybe that would work for you.

I'd like to know what the NEC code would say about this. I'm sure they
ave seen this done and know what the consequences are.

PS. Advance will not warrant the ballasts and will not be returnable to
HD.

--

Stupid wrote (DJ)

Here is what I do, but in no means suggesting you do yourself (end
disclaimer):
This is a popular method on the aquarium NGs, and is nothing new.
(These guys have their heads under water or up their .....)

The Problem:

I had older 4' 2-tube fixtures that flickered when the shop was
chilly and were just plain dim on all other occasions. The ballasts
were the old, heavy, inefficient magnetic ones that are so ubiquitous
in
shops. The fixtures themselves disassemble easily, and have plenty
of room for the ballasts inside.

The Solution:

Home Depot carries Advance Instant-Start Electronic Ballasts (REL-
4P32-SC), This ballast is light as a feather, and designed for (3) or
(4) bulbs, However; they will successfully operate (2) bulbs at
double the line current, and double the brightness) if wired up so.

How to do:

Remove the old ballast, toss in trash. Install the new ballast in
place,
it should be a direct replacement. Ignore the diagram on the label,
take the two blue wires to one lamp socket, the two red wires to
the adjacent socket. The two yellow wires go one each of the opposite
sockets, with a short jumper wire connected between the two
remaining terminals of those sockets. The ballast has thermal
protection so will not explode if wired incorrectly. I cut, and
splice using barrel connectors and crimp.

Get rid of those old tubes, and install some new T-8's. They are the
1" diameter tubes so popular in Canada, they are more efficient then
the 1.5" tubes most of have. HD carries them too.

The standard bulb is 1.2 inches. Each T-10 is 1", I have an F8T5 which
is an 8 watt 1/2" thick, you figure what's right.

This works well for me, and thought I would share since I have taken
so much helpful info from this NG.
Be careful,
DJ

--
Woody


Check out my Web Page at:

http://community-1.webtv.net/Woodwor...workerJoesInfo

Where you will find:

******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03

* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.1-14-03
* * * What is a Real Woodworker? 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions. 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Laws. 4-6-03
* * * What is the true meaning of life? 1-14-03
* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03