I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur

There are numerous things that can/will cause non-square cutting on any
table saw of any age (and of any price range as well).

From the sound of your description, though, I'm wondering if the blade
that's installed on your saw is sort of looking like that old proverbial
potato chip and perhaps (also?) suffering from too many visits from the
tooth fairy :-)

Are your fence and blade in alignment? Is the arbor suffering from excessive
runout? (Does a new flat blade wobble on it?). Is the blade parallel to the
miter slots? (etc etc etc -- along with so on and so forth :-) )

Oh, and you might want to watch that word "cheap". I've seen some pretty
costly wood working machinery that was shabby enough in quality to be
"cheap". I've also seen plenty of inexpensive tools and machinery that can
(and do!) out-perform far costlier "good stuff" by other manufacturers (and
make theirs look "cheap" in comparison). Your old B&D might well be both
inexpensivc and cheap -- on the other hand (if it's old enough) it might
well just be suffering from neglect.

-- Steve
Penury is the Mother of Invention
www.apachetrail.com/ww/
Mesa, AZ

"Tibur Waltson" wrote in message
ws.com...
I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur

Hello, this is Tib0r again.

Here's a drawing of my twist formed from the cut.

http://autotails.tripod.com/saw/saw.gif

I can't figure out why it twists at the ends in the drawing. I need
help from those who have abilities to think in three dimensions.

My blades are true and sharp and appear less like a proverbial
potato chip. My miter gauge is align with the blade. I feed the
wood slowly. The blade is just a days old and doesn't wobble
on it. I've use a cheap 7-1/4" thin blade. I should've gotten the
thick 10" name brand ones.

The arbor is kind of a bit suffering from runout, but I've seen worse
at Sears. Is it because the blade is 7-1/4", but this should reduce the
effects of arbor runouts?

Off subject: A friend gave me an industrial 20 lb., 20-years old
7-1/4" circular saw with what looks like thicker carbide blades.
It's brand and model name plaque is rip out 6 years ago. It's
dropped hundreds of times and created lots pits and craters on
the concrete pavement. I don't understand it, but this circular
saw cuts with SUPER fine precision.

What is a practical way to find out if the new table saw will not
have future arbor runouts?

Thanks in advance, TW

"Steve" wrote in message
There are numerous things that can/will cause non-square cutting on any
table saw of any age (and of any price range as well).

From the sound of your description, though, I'm wondering if the blade
that's installed on your saw is sort of looking like that old proverbial
potato chip and perhaps (also?) suffering from too many visits from the
tooth fairy :-)

Are your fence and blade in alignment? Is the arbor suffering from excessive
runout? (Does a new flat blade wobble on it?). Is the blade parallel to the
miter slots? (etc etc etc -- along with so on and so forth :-) )

Oh, and you might want to watch that word "cheap". I've seen some pretty
costly wood working machinery that was shabby enough in quality to be
"cheap". I've also seen plenty of inexpensive tools and machinery that can
(and do!) out-perform far costlier "good stuff" by other manufacturers (and
make theirs look "cheap" in comparison). Your old B&D might well be both
inexpensivc and cheap -- on the other hand (if it's old enough) it might
well just be suffering from neglect.

-- Steve
Penury is the Mother of Invention
www.apachetrail.com/ww/
Mesa, AZ

"Tibur Waltson" wrote in message
ws.com...
I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur

Poplar, as in Populus sp versus what's sold out east as poplar which is L
tulipifera, will twist, turn, squirm and burn when ripping, sometimes
without obvious signs in the piece.

However - if you can see areas of smooth, silky surface interspersed with
areas of roughness, or the surface of the wood changes reflectivity as you
change your point of view, you're much more likely to have problems.

If you have the heart of the wood very close, or in the piece, you're much
more likely to have problems.

If you look at the end and see annual rings closely spaced on part of the
board and more generous on the other, you might have "reaction" wood.

Get thee to a library and R Bruce Hoadley's _Understanding Wood_ for some
interesting observations on what happens to kilned wood.

NBon't use the miter gage to rip.

"Ricky Spartacus" wrote in message
om...
Hello, this is Tib0r again.

Here's a drawing of my twist formed from the cut.

http://autotails.tripod.com/saw/saw.gif

I can't figure out why it twists at the ends in the drawing. I need
help from those who have abilities to think in three dimensions.

My question is: where's your fence? Probably a little tough ripping a
board with a mitre gauge? If the twist appears after the cut, I would have
to ask: is the board rising off the table the last couple of inches of
travel?

NB


"George" wrote in message
...
Poplar, as in Populus sp versus what's sold out east as poplar which is L
tulipifera, will twist, turn, squirm and burn when ripping, sometimes
without obvious signs in the piece.

However - if you can see areas of smooth, silky surface interspersed with
areas of roughness, or the surface of the wood changes reflectivity as you
change your point of view, you're much more likely to have problems.

If you have the heart of the wood very close, or in the piece, you're much
more likely to have problems.

If you look at the end and see annual rings closely spaced on part of the
board and more generous on the other, you might have "reaction" wood.

Get thee to a library and R Bruce Hoadley's _Understanding Wood_ for some
interesting observations on what happens to kilned wood.

NBon't use the miter gage to rip.

"Ricky Spartacus" wrote in message
om...
Hello, this is Tib0r again.

Here's a drawing of my twist formed from the cut.

http://autotails.tripod.com/saw/saw.gif

I can't figure out why it twists at the ends in the drawing. I need
help from those who have abilities to think in three dimensions.

Wed, Feb 4, 2004, 4:38am (EST+5) (Tibur=A0Waltson) says:
snip what I'm getting is wobbly curve snip

You trying to cut freehand? Or, are you using the saw mitre guage?

JOAT
It's what you learn after you know it all that counts.
- Pete Maccarrone

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 3 Feb 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

Jack, I get the impression he is ripping,
Tony D.
"If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer."
"T." wrote in message
...
Wed, Feb 4, 2004, 4:38am (EST+5) (Tibur Waltson) says:
snip what I'm getting is wobbly curve snip

You trying to cut freehand? Or, are you using the saw mitre guage?

JOAT
It's what you learn after you know it all that counts.
- Pete Maccarrone

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 3 Feb 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/

A table saw should cut wood like it was machined. Is your blade true and
sharp?

Bob

"Tibur Waltson" wrote in message
ws.com...
I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur

A decent table saw cut should be straight as an arrow. I'm usually the last one
to tell people to replace old tools, but B&D never made a useful stationary
tool as far as I know. Time for a saw upgrade.

GTO(John)

I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur

Gotta agree. My experience with B&D table saws is something I would
rather forget. They like to make "homeowner" stuff- not suitabl;e for
anyone other than a once a year owner.


On 04 Feb 2004 17:19:18 GMT, (GTO69RA4) wrote:

A decent table saw cut should be straight as an arrow. I'm usually the last one
to tell people to replace old tools, but B&D never made a useful stationary
tool as far as I know. Time for a saw upgrade.

GTO(John)

I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur