Hello, this is Tib0r again.

Here's a drawing of my twist formed from the cut.

http://autotails.tripod.com/saw/saw.gif

I can't figure out why it twists at the ends in the drawing. I need
help from those who have abilities to think in three dimensions.

My blades are true and sharp and appear less like a proverbial
potato chip. My miter gauge is align with the blade. I feed the
wood slowly. The blade is just a days old and doesn't wobble
on it. I've use a cheap 7-1/4" thin blade. I should've gotten the
thick 10" name brand ones.

The arbor is kind of a bit suffering from runout, but I've seen worse
at Sears. Is it because the blade is 7-1/4", but this should reduce the
effects of arbor runouts?

Off subject: A friend gave me an industrial 20 lb., 20-years old
7-1/4" circular saw with what looks like thicker carbide blades.
It's brand and model name plaque is rip out 6 years ago. It's
dropped hundreds of times and created lots pits and craters on
the concrete pavement. I don't understand it, but this circular
saw cuts with SUPER fine precision.

What is a practical way to find out if the new table saw will not
have future arbor runouts?

Thanks in advance, TW

"Steve" wrote in message
There are numerous things that can/will cause non-square cutting on any
table saw of any age (and of any price range as well).

From the sound of your description, though, I'm wondering if the blade
that's installed on your saw is sort of looking like that old proverbial
potato chip and perhaps (also?) suffering from too many visits from the
tooth fairy :-)

Are your fence and blade in alignment? Is the arbor suffering from excessive
runout? (Does a new flat blade wobble on it?). Is the blade parallel to the
miter slots? (etc etc etc -- along with so on and so forth :-) )

Oh, and you might want to watch that word "cheap". I've seen some pretty
costly wood working machinery that was shabby enough in quality to be
"cheap". I've also seen plenty of inexpensive tools and machinery that can
(and do!) out-perform far costlier "good stuff" by other manufacturers (and
make theirs look "cheap" in comparison). Your old B&D might well be both
inexpensivc and cheap -- on the other hand (if it's old enough) it might
well just be suffering from neglect.

-- Steve
Penury is the Mother of Invention
www.apachetrail.com/ww/
Mesa, AZ

"Tibur Waltson" wrote in message
ws.com...
I am trying to make a nice square cut from my old
tablesaw. I like to make a flat square cut from a piece of
1 x 6 foot board as flat as possible. I'm cutting the 1
foot end. But what I'm getting is wobbly curve looking
from a perspective view. Don't know how to describe it
but the 1 foot cut resembles an airplane propeller blade
and makes joining wood with biscuits impossible.

If this is normal for table saw, then I don't mind getting
an edge planer. If the cause is my old tablesaw, I'll just
upgrade. Question: Do all table saw do this, or just only
the cheap ones?

TIA, Tibur