First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

On Jan 28, 10:39*pm, wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

Angela is pretty good with that stuff, eh? (better than I am at
changing log-ins.)

wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

I don't recognize the wood - what species is it?

R

On Jan 29, 12:24*am, RicodJour wrote:
wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

I don't recognize the wood - what species is it?

R

It is called Biscayne Blue. It adorns many wonderful wooden vanities
and kitchen cabinets.
Now, with the inlay technique, one can enhance a theme, being perhaps
a Harvey Ellis style or Greene and Greene.
The inlays can be derived from any image, in a multitude of colours.
A floral pattern could augment a cabriolet leg, for instance.

Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.


Did this go over my head?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.


Did this go over my head?


--

-MIKE-


If it did, we're the same height.

jc

wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r
That is like when I did my first Standard Deviation on a digital
calculator, I felt that someway I was cheating.

wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r
Do you then coat the surface with something?

We have some old resin type tops in our bathrooms that we have been
thinking of refinishing. Could this technique be used in conjunction
with refinishing?

-MIKE- wrote in news:glric2$a2u$1
@news.motzarella.org:

Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.


Did this go over my head?



Can't get a square corner with a spinning router bit!

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.


Did this go over my head?


--

-MIKE-

I think it might be a chisel. :-)

I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not that
small.

wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
:

First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

so what are you filling with?

Lowell Holmes wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.

Did this go over my head?

I think it might be a chisel. :-)

I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not that
small.

Think V-bit - the square corner is cut by raising the bit so that the
point cuts the right angle. It (almost) requires CNC control.

Next up, I'd like to see that same inlay pattern with a slight undercut
to give the inlay material a better chance to hold.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Joe wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.

Did this go over my head?


--

-MIKE-


If it did, we're the same height.

jc

LOL!

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 29, 8:53*am, "Lowell Holmes" wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message

... Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.

Did this go over my head?

--

*-MIKE-

I think it might be a chisel. *:-)

I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not that
small.

It's a technique called V-Bit carving. Works marvellously well.
Especially when one imitates a raised-panel door in MDF and then
vacuum-forms a sheet of polyvinyl over the door. But, alas, I have
said too much.

Sooooo.. Is it a "solid surface" material of some sort ???

Robatoy wrote:

It is called Biscayne Blue.

On Jan 29, 8:54*am, Larrybud wrote:
wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
:

First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

so what are you filling with?

Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer
CAS No 80-62-6
38-48 7940
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
7093ppm
(rat/ 4hr)
ACGIH1 TLV-TWA: 50 ppm
Carcinogen A4, Sensitizer
ACGIH STEL: 100 ppm


Part B
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Benzoyl Peroxide2
(Active O2 1.0%)
CAS No 94-36-0
2-4 7710
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Dibutyl Phthalate
CAS No 84-74-2
5-10 800
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
12500
mg/m3
(mouse
/4hr)
ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Reaction product of
Epichlorohydrin and
Bisphenol A
CAS No 25085-99-8 75-90 11400
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. N. Established

On Jan 29, 10:04*am, Pat Barber wrote:
Sooooo.. Is it a "solid surface" material of some sort ???

Robatoy wrote:
It is called Biscayne Blue.

Yes it is. A mixture of ATH and acrylic. Traded under the names of
Corian, Staron, Meganite etc. This particular colour is made by
Meganite.

On Jan 29, 7:27*am, Keith nuttle wrote:
wrote:
First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

Do you then coat the surface with something?

We have some old resin type tops in our bathrooms that we have been
thinking of refinishing. *Could this technique be used in conjunction
with refinishing?

No, it will be polished, however.
Now you resin-type countertops can be gel-coat with man-made marble
underneat. Refinishing those is difficult.
If there is a thick coating on top, then it can be polished with
automotive compounds. It's Polyester.

Other resin-types can be polyester all the way through. Those can be
sanded and polished; refinished till they look new.

One way to tell is to look underneath. If it feels/looks chalky.. it
is most likely gel-coat.

If your top has an integral sink, and it shows cracks around the
drain, it is not repairable.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 29, 8:53 am, "Lowell Holmes" wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message

... Robatoy wrote:
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.

Did this go over my head?

--

-MIKE-

I think it might be a chisel. :-)

I do have the Whiteside inlay kit. It has a small diameter bit, but not
that
small.

It's a technique called V-Bit carving. Works marvellously well.
Especially when one imitates a raised-panel door in MDF and then
vacuum-forms a sheet of polyvinyl over the door. But, alas, I have
said too much.


I have seen that technique used with a top tapered pilot bearing v-bit and
templates that narrow near the locations that you want pointy corners or
ends. Essentially the bit raises up at the corner. CMT sells the set to
do this.
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_item...pars=PJJ~RCS~2

so what are you filling with?

Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer
CAS No 80-62-6
38-48 7940
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
7093ppm
(rat/ 4hr)
ACGIH1 TLV-TWA: 50 ppm
Carcinogen A4, Sensitizer
ACGIH STEL: 100 ppm


Part B
Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Benzoyl Peroxide2
(Active O2 1.0%)
CAS No 94-36-0
2-4 7710
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Dibutyl Phthalate
CAS No 84-74-2
5-10 800
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
12500
mg/m3
(mouse
/4hr)
ACGIH TLV: 5 mg/m3
Reaction product of
Epichlorohydrin and
Bisphenol A
CAS No 25085-99-8 75-90 11400
mg/kg
(rat/oral)
N. Av. N. Established


Ohhhh..... *THAT* stuff.... I think I have some behind the 5 year old garnet
shellac in the finish cabinet.

jc

Robatoy wrote in news:e9e77497-9ee5-
:

On Jan 29, 8:54*am, Larrybud wrote:
wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
:

First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

so what are you filling with?

Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer...

otherwise known as....?

On Jan 29, 12:37*pm, Larrybud wrote:
Robatoy wrote in news:e9e77497-9ee5-
:



On Jan 29, 8:54*am, Larrybud wrote:
wrote in news:ba93dbf6-b594-4099-b67a-
:

First, you rout out the pattern you want.
Make sure you use the square-corner bit.
Then fill with inlay.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...toy/Scoop1.jpg

Then, sand smooth.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Flushsand.jpg

Presto!

r

so what are you filling with?

Component % (w/w) LD50 LC50 Exposure Limits
Methyl Methacrylate
Monomer...

otherwise known as....?

It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
join seams for both quartz and solid surface.

Robatoy wrote:
It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
join seams for both quartz and solid surface.


Looks like what they make to fill holes and seems in vinyl exterior
house trim.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Jan 29, 2:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
It is an acrylic two-part. But not an epoxy. Varieties are used to
join seams for both quartz and solid surface.

Looks like what they make to fill holes and seems in vinyl exterior
house trim.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

They do use a similar product to adhere artificial hips and knees in
place.

In article 873186bf-d209-4e14-b249-
,
says...


* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

They do use a similar product to adhere artificial hips and knees in
place.

Now *that* sounds like fun...