Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase of a
table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own. I
thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum plate.
What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything else?
Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you

SBH wrote:
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase of a
table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own. I
thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum plate.
What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything else?
Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you


Too much flex in the wood.
I used Phenolic and couldn't get it to flex if I tried.
Plus it won't expand/contract with the weather.

I don't know if 1/4" aluminum is thick enough, though I suspect it is.
I'm sure someone in here will know for sure, though.

Whatever route (pun) you take, learn from my experience and do it
right the first time or you'll be doing it over until you do it right.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

SBH wrote:
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase of a
table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own. I
thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum plate.
What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything else?
Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you


I bought a plastic (?) insert plate with adjusting screws to insure it
is even with the table. It has snap-in inner inserts so you can have
different size holes for different bits and snapping it out makes bit
change easy. I have not regretted getting it.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Social Security: World's biggest Ponzi Scheme.

I've made dozens of them out of 1/4 plexiglas or Lexan. They work
well and I've not ever broken or hurt one. 1/2" thick makes a
great zero clearance on the cabinet saw.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"SBH" wrote in message
...
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the
purchase of a table insert plate and thought of the possibility
of making my own. I thought about making it with 1/4" wood and
also with 1/4" aluminum plate. What would you recommend to use
from the two mentioned or anything else? Specifics are greatly
appreciated.

Thank you

If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

MB wrote:
If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

Concave or convex.... I'm assuming concave.

What "feature" do they claim that serves?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Jan 2, 6:05*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
MB wrote:
If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

Concave or convex.... I'm assuming concave.

What "feature" do they claim that serves?

Good question. Then again, if I had to pick between either concave or
convex, I'd take the positive hump. I suppose for the same reason that
many of the fences they now make for bandsaw resawing have become
convex.

SBH wrote:
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase of a
table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own. I
thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum plate.
What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything else?
Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you

My biggest beef with commercial router plates is that most of them don't
have a large enough opening to swing some of the big panel raiser bits.
If you buy a plate try to find one with an opening that's at least
3-1/2" to 3-5/8" wide.

I made my own plate from 1/4" aluminum (got it at McMaster-Carr), and I
even anodized it myself to a pretty blue color. :-) Made my inserts
from that slick white (UHMW) plastic, though I'd really like to make
them from phenolic instead. Actually, I'd recommend making the plate
out of phenolic as well unless you have access to the right tools to
machine the aluminum...

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Robatoy" wrote in message
What "feature" do they claim that serves?

Good question. Then again, if I had to pick between either concave or
convex, I'd take the positive hump. I suppose for the same reason that
many of the fences they now make for bandsaw resawing have become
convex.

It's probably convex because the weight of a router would pull it down flat.
The LV router plate is slightly convex and they tell you so knowing that a
router will pull it down flat.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
SBH wrote:
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase
of a table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own.
I thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum
plate. What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything
else? Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you

My biggest beef with commercial router plates is that most of them don't
have a large enough opening to swing some of the big panel raiser bits. If
you buy a plate try to find one with an opening that's at least 3-1/2" to
3-5/8" wide.

I made my own plate from 1/4" aluminum (got it at McMaster-Carr), and I
even anodized it myself to a pretty blue color. :-) Made my inserts from
that slick white (UHMW) plastic, though I'd really like to make them from
phenolic instead. Actually, I'd recommend making the plate out of
phenolic as well unless you have access to the right tools to machine the
aluminum...

I would love to make it from Phenolic but the cost of a 9 x 12 piece is
about 4 to 5 times that of the aluminum.

On Jan 1, 5:44*pm, "SBH" wrote:
Upon making my own router table, I have been contemplating the purchase of a
table insert plate and thought of the possibility of making my own. I
thought about making it with 1/4" wood and also with 1/4" aluminum plate.
What would you recommend to use from the two mentioned or anything else?
Specifics are greatly appreciated.

Thank you

I bought the 1/4" Rocker aluminum plate a number of years ago. Was/am
extremely happy with the flatness/rigidity. About a year ago I
upgraded to the Rockler/Jessem Lift--again very happy. The BIG PLUS
was it was the exact same size as my original plate. Dropped it in
and of the races.

Upscale wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
What "feature" do they claim that serves?

Good question. Then again, if I had to pick between either concave or
convex, I'd take the positive hump. I suppose for the same reason that
many of the fences they now make for bandsaw resawing have become
convex.

It's probably convex because the weight of a router would pull it down flat.
The LV router plate is slightly convex and they tell you so knowing that a
router will pull it down flat.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885


Well, I guess I can see the hesitation to fully accept this as a
"feature."

Could they not just design it better, make it thicker, or out of a
material that wouldn't flex?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

SBH wrote:
I would love to make it from Phenolic but the cost of a 9 x 12 piece is
about 4 to 5 times that of the aluminum.


I got 1/2 Phenolic at Woodcraft for $24 couple years ago.
I think my piece was 18x18.

I think you would regret not going with the best material (or your first
choice) and doing it right the first time.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Could they not just design it better, make it thicker, or out of a
material that wouldn't flex?

It is made out of steel plate. If steel plate flexes then there's not too
many other materials that won't flex. Sure, I guess they could have made it
thicker, but then you'd have to factor in cost, weight, their particular
design that uses edge clamps for fine adjustment and mostly, the need to
have the router as close to the top as possible for full bit extension.

I've looked at their router plate instore. If there's a slight flex as they
state, it's not all obvious. Another thing that's nice about this design is
you just mount the plate. No screwing around with routing out an insert so a
plate can fit. And it will work great with any number of magnetic jigs and
devices such as a dust chute, position stops and magnetic feather boards.

Upscale wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Could they not just design it better, make it thicker, or out of a
material that wouldn't flex?

It is made out of steel plate. If steel plate flexes then there's not too
many other materials that won't flex. Sure, I guess they could have made it
thicker, but then you'd have to factor in cost, weight, their particular
design that uses edge clamps for fine adjustment and mostly, the need to
have the router as close to the top as possible for full bit extension.


I'm with you on having the router as close the the table top as
possible. Although it hasn't been an issue with my 1/2" phenolic, and
there is no flex in that whatsoever. I suppose if height were an issue,
I could recess it 1/4".


I've looked at their router plate instore. If there's a slight flex as they
state, it's not all obvious. Another thing that's nice about this design is
you just mount the plate. No screwing around with routing out an insert so a
plate can fit. And it will work great with any number of magnetic jigs and
devices such as a dust chute, position stops and magnetic feather boards.


I just looked at it and it is a very cool concept. I think the addition
of some welded strongbacks, holding it straight, would be better than an
engineered curve.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
I just looked at it and it is a very cool concept. I think the addition
of some welded strongbacks, holding it straight, would be better than an
engineered curve.

I'm sure you're right, but I question where they could be placed. With the
design they're using and the use of edge stops and fine adjustment,
strongbacks wouldn't be suitable at an edge. That leaves them at an inside
edge somewhere and the likelihood of some type of dado or similar to fit
them in a table mount. Not a big thing I guess, but I'm sure they were
considered by the design staff and discarded for some unknown reason.

The Makita 3hp plunge router I currently have was last mounted in one of the
cast iron wings of my table saw. If I eventually get around to needing a
separate table mounted router, I'll decide on the easy to build LV table or
a considerably more expensive Jessem table. Those are my two top contenders
at the present.

On Fri, 2 Jan 2009 23:00:20 +0000, MB wrote
(in article
):

If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome


I have the rissole plate too. I knew it was "crowned" before I bought it.
This was toted as a feature for whatever market-bull-speak reason it was...
something to do with ensuring repeatability or somesuchcrap. It seemed to
make sense to me, a complete novice when I bought it.

hang on, I'll go find the catalogue... rummage.. rummage

"which ensures there is no sag with the router in position and that the table
is always at its highest point as the cutter reaches the work for maximum
accuracy."

Hands up anybody who thinks this actually means anything. ???

What I DIDN'T expect was that the crown would also include the plate's edges.
i.e. with the corners inset into the table dead level, the middle of each
side makes a step that catches whatever is slid across the table surface. My
router weighs about 12 lb and seems to pull it out a bit, but
a) , not completely and
b). I thought the whole point of phenolic was it's supposed NOT to flex?

The plate is "stepped" underneath The edge is thinner than the body of the
plate so you can't put it flat down on the bearing edge without cutting out
the big mounting hole.

Worst part was cutting the rebate to set the thing on. Of course I used the
manufacturer's measurement and ended up with the entire plate sat proud of
the table.. (I cut the ledge, then the big hole so I couldn't "test fit" it
till I'd dismantled the ledge template. Grrrrr!! Bah!! )

Finally got it to work, but I'm not impressed.

If I was doing it again (and I might) I'd either go for the Incra plate,
which is INSANELY expensive in England but has really cute clearance inserts
and magnets and is shiny and droll drool..

OR

I'd cut a sheet of 1/4"" dural and route out the centre hole . It'd be worth
sacrificing a cheap bit to make a stepped hole which could then take the
Rousseau inserts or whatever. It would be as easy to do this as make the
thing out of polycarbonate and I'd have more confidence in it.

OR.. and this is the most likely now I've befriended a fabricator 'cross town
who'll do odd jobs in his lunch hour for a couple of pints..
I'd get a simple flat steel plate with a square hole cut in the middle, then
spot weld or epoxy ledge retainer strips under the hole to take mdf
zero-clearance inserts (6mm) I'd retain these if necessary with countersunk
screws or just inset a strip magnet into the back. Cheap, cheerful and
uncomplicated and new inserts would be as easy as pie.

My thoughts, anyhowup.

Happy New Year everybody!!!!

Bored Borg wrote:
What I DIDN'T expect was that the crown would also include the plate's edges.
i.e. with the corners inset into the table dead level, the middle of each
side makes a step that catches whatever is slid across the table surface.

That's what I was suspicious of.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Jan 2, 5:00*pm, MB wrote:
If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

How about just getting a good adjustable router and mounting it
directly to a table? Triton router comes to mind.

"coloradotrout" wrote in message
...
On Jan 2, 5:00 pm, MB wrote:
If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

How about just getting a good adjustable router and mounting it
directly to a table? Triton router comes to mind.

I have thought about that at times and still consider that option. I already
have a router which I use for free hand and will have a router for table
only, which led me to believe I can simply keep it mounted under the table
all the time. The only drawback, that I can currently think of, would be
removal for cleaning.

I'm beginning to believe, by viewing all the comments, the inserted plate is
more of a hassle than what it's worth. I cannot see why a simple 1/4" thick
aluminum wouldn't suffice. I've never had a router table, therefore, I
cannot fathom the overt complications of an insert but I'm sure I'll be
corrected regarding those complications.

How about just getting a good adjustable router and mounting it
directly to a table? Triton router comes to mind.

I have thought about that at times and still consider that option. I already
have a router which I use for free hand and will have a router for table
only, which led me to believe I can simply keep it mounted under the table
all the time. The only drawback, that I can currently think of, would be
removal for cleaning.

I'm beginning to believe, by viewing all the comments, the inserted plate is
more of a hassle than what it's worth. I cannot see why a simple 1/4" thick
aluminum wouldn't suffice. I've never had a router table, therefore, I
cannot fathom the overt complications of an insert but I'm sure I'll be
corrected regarding those complications.


We like to make things more difficult than they actually are.
I suppose it helps retailers sell us stuff, and it helps us charge
people more for what we make. :-)

I made a bunch of molding for an on-site project by screwing the router
directly underneath a melamine table top, and running a bit straight up
to cut the hole. I screwed my fences, bit guard, hold downs, and
feather boards right down to the melamine.

Very low tech and ghetto, but it produced perfect result.

And yes, I will tell you that with a couple of pattern/rabbet bits and
some wood scraps, you can make a perfectly matching insert using a
technique similar to this...
http://woodbutcher.net/insrtrtr.shtml


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"coloradotrout" wrote in message
...
On Jan 2, 5:00 pm, MB wrote:
If you buy an insert, beware that the Rouseau plate is not flat. It is
slightly domed. To some this is a feature. I don't particularly care
for the stock "rocking" over the dome

How about just getting a good adjustable router and mounting it
directly to a table? Triton router comes to mind.

I have thought about that at times and still consider that option. I
already have a router which I use for free hand and will have a router for
table only, which led me to believe I can simply keep it mounted under the
table all the time. The only drawback, that I can currently think of,
would be removal for cleaning.

I'm beginning to believe, by viewing all the comments, the inserted plate
is more of a hassle than what it's worth. I cannot see why a simple 1/4"
thick aluminum wouldn't suffice. I've never had a router table, therefore,
I cannot fathom the overt complications of an insert but I'm sure I'll be
corrected regarding those complications.

The 1/4" plate will work. Just countersink some mounting screws for the
router and for hold downs in the corners. Bore out a hole for the bit. The
store bought plates have replaceable throat inserts for smaller diameter
bits. You want to keep the plate small to minimize flexural deformation. It
has to be large enough to span a hole you can slip the router through. When
it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few of us are
equipped to accurately machine aluminum. I remember using 1/2" ply way way
back in the stone ages. That'll work, too. I have an Incra plate now. It
replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate is
simple, well engineered, nicely machined and finished, and most important,
dead flat and level with the table top when installed.

It's unfortunate but easy to see why the woodworking channel is really the
woodworker shopping channel, or woodworking tool/shiny new kit gnashing
channel. There's alot of junk out there that complicates the simple task it
does rather than solve a real problem. There is also stuff that really
works. Is it any wonder that we dump on the retailers so often? They sell
alot of the junk, but they also sell the good stuff, too. You'll have to
decide for yourself which is which... Most often, I'm bummed to realize
in less than a week that I got taken yet again.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...

We like to make things more difficult than they actually are.
I suppose it helps retailers sell us stuff, and it helps us charge people
more for what we make. :-)

I made a bunch of molding for an on-site project by screwing the router
directly underneath a melamine table top, and running a bit straight up to
cut the hole. I screwed my fences, bit guard, hold downs, and feather
boards right down to the melamine.

Very low tech and ghetto, but it produced perfect result.

And yes, I will tell you that with a couple of pattern/rabbet bits and
some wood scraps, you can make a perfectly matching insert using a
technique similar to this...
http://woodbutcher.net/insrtrtr.shtml

I couldn't agree more. Most people are programmed by the manufacturers
and/or retailers their product requires special type of care or upgrades and
you'll need several accessories or if mishandled it won't work correctly,
therefore, you'll need a new one...blah blah blah. All marketing ploys to
make more money. One example, to be a bit off topic is the use of motorcycle
helmets. It was once believed (and actually still is by many riders) if you
drop your helmet, it's no longer any use. Needless to say, hogwash! You get
the idea. On that note, I can't imagine an insert plate needing such special
care, feature or requirements other than good strength to hold the router. I
believe I know the direction I will take.

Thanks for the info about your table and the link.

"MikeWhy" wrote in message news:r5b8l.8194

The 1/4" plate will work. Just countersink some mounting screws for the
router and for hold downs in the corners. Bore out a hole for the bit. The
store bought plates have replaceable throat inserts for smaller diameter
bits. You want to keep the plate small to minimize flexural deformation.
It has to be large enough to span a hole you can slip the router through.
When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few of
us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum. I remember using 1/2" ply
way way back in the stone ages. That'll work, too. I have an Incra plate
now. It replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate
is simple, well engineered, nicely machined and finished, and most
important, dead flat and level with the table top when installed.

It's unfortunate but easy to see why the woodworking channel is really the
woodworker shopping channel, or woodworking tool/shiny new kit gnashing
channel. There's alot of junk out there that complicates the simple task
it does rather than solve a real problem. There is also stuff that really
works. Is it any wonder that we dump on the retailers so often? They sell
alot of the junk, but they also sell the good stuff, too. You'll have to
decide for yourself which is which... Most often, I'm bummed to realize
in less than a week that I got taken yet again.

Thanks for the input, Mike. Is the hole for the bit a major issue? In other
words, why is it neccessary to have the several size hole inserts instead of
one decent size hole for the largest bit? What drawbacks are present if
using a straight bit, for example, within that large hole?

Thanks

SBH wrote:
Thanks for the input, Mike. Is the hole for the bit a major issue? In other
words, why is it neccessary to have the several size hole inserts instead of
one decent size hole for the largest bit? What drawbacks are present if
using a straight bit, for example, within that large hole?


I'm not the Mike you asked, but that's never stopped me. :-)
One issue is sawdust falling down into the router. I have a vac port
down there, so I don't worry about it, but it might be a problem for
some routers.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"MikeWhy" wrote in message news:r5b8l.8194

The 1/4" plate will work. Just countersink some mounting screws for the
router and for hold downs in the corners. Bore out a hole for the bit.
The store bought plates have replaceable throat inserts for smaller
diameter bits. You want to keep the plate small to minimize flexural
deformation. It has to be large enough to span a hole you can slip the
router through. When it's said and done, store bought plates are
reasonable because few of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum.
I remember using 1/2" ply way way back in the stone ages. That'll work,
too. I have an Incra plate now. It replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau
plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate is simple, well engineered, nicely
machined and finished, and most important, dead flat and level with the
table top when installed.

It's unfortunate but easy to see why the woodworking channel is really
the woodworker shopping channel, or woodworking tool/shiny new kit
gnashing channel. There's alot of junk out there that complicates the
simple task it does rather than solve a real problem. There is also stuff
that really works. Is it any wonder that we dump on the retailers so
often? They sell alot of the junk, but they also sell the good stuff,
too. You'll have to decide for yourself which is which... Most often,
I'm bummed to realize in less than a week that I got taken yet again.

Thanks for the input, Mike. Is the hole for the bit a major issue? In
other words, why is it neccessary to have the several size hole inserts
instead of one decent size hole for the largest bit? What drawbacks are
present if using a straight bit, for example, within that large hole?

I don't wish to overstate the problem, and mention it only because it's a
tough problem to solve. If you might need inserts, you're almost certainly
better off buying the plate at the start. How big a hole is too large? I
dunno. It's the perennial problem with flatness and support. You want good
solid support under the piece right at the cutter. If the gap is large
enough, the wood bendy enough, or the piece just too small, you might have
problems. I think you're mostly OK if the work piece is wide enough to span
the uncovered opening. A skinny stick can have problems catching on the far
lip if you press down on it hard enough. The remaining concerns are with
dangling fingertips, but that's a personal comfort issue.

"SBH" wrote in message
...


I'm beginning to believe, by viewing all the comments, the inserted plate
is more of a hassle than what it's worth. I cannot see why a simple 1/4"
thick aluminum wouldn't suffice. I've never had a router table, therefore,
I cannot fathom the overt complications of an insert but I'm sure I'll be
corrected regarding those complications.


That is what I use.
I have two router plates, one with a smaller hole, and one with a huge hole
that I use a raised panel bit in. Both plates I made myself from some scrape
aluminum I got real cheap. I cut them to size with my table saw and a
carbide blade, and used a hole saw to bore the holes in the center.
My router table is a box built out of 3/4 MDF with a piece of scrap counter
top for the work surface. I edge banded the counter top with strips of oak,
and cut a 4" hole in the side of the box for my dust collector. I built a
fence from 3/4" melamine and use a couple c-clamps to hold it in place. I
put a door in the front so I can adjust the router, and the top just sits in
place, guided with some scraps to keep it in place. I probably have $5 in
the whole thing and see no reason for anything different.
Greg

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few
of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum.

Pretty much everyone here has a table saw, what else do you need?
I cut my aluminum plates on my TS and even trim them with a VS router and
carbide bit on slow speed.
Greg

"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few
of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum.

Pretty much everyone here has a table saw, what else do you need?
I cut my aluminum plates on my TS and even trim them with a VS router and
carbide bit on slow speed.

For a plate with inserts, a mill drill at minimum to fly cut the surface
flat; mill and bore a stepped throat hole to take the insert; cut insert
rings to fit. You could scrape the plate flat by hand with common
woodworking tools (although this level of Neandering is somewhat at odds
with the intended use). You could also try cutting the stepped throat with
the router. I don't see the point, though, since really good store bought
plates don't cost all that much.
http://www.incrementaltools.com/Prod...PALUMINUM%5FRT

I caught your other post. There's no reason that can't be made to work if
you don't mind changing plates when you turn a larger cutter. With the
Incra, I just stick a different insert onto the magnet that holds it down.
The inserts and the blanchard ground surface are the major differences. This
isn't at odds with my rant about gadgetizing and gimmickry. Some things are
real tools, and bargains if you have the need they fill.

"Greg O" wrote in message
...



That is what I use.
I have two router plates, one with a smaller hole, and one with a huge
hole that I use a raised panel bit in. Both plates I made myself from some
scrape aluminum I got real cheap. I cut them to size with my table saw and
a carbide blade, and used a hole saw to bore the holes in the center.
My router table is a box built out of 3/4 MDF with a piece of scrap
counter top for the work surface. I edge banded the counter top with
strips of oak, and cut a 4" hole in the side of the box for my dust
collector. I built a fence from 3/4" melamine and use a couple c-clamps to
hold it in place. I put a door in the front so I can adjust the router,
and the top just sits in place, guided with some scraps to keep it in
place. I probably have $5 in the whole thing and see no reason for
anything different.
Greg

Awesome, Greg. Would you mind providing the dimensions of the plate you
made? The aluminum you used didn't harm the TS blade or router bit after
using?

Viewing the McMaster Carr site, I can purchase a 1/4" thick 12" x 10" 6061
aluminum plate for under $19.00 but not sure if this would be too big and I
will also make my own fence and accessories.

Thanks

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few
of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum.

Pretty much everyone here has a table saw, what else do you need?
I cut my aluminum plates on my TS and even trim them with a VS router and
carbide bit on slow speed.

For a plate with inserts, a mill drill at minimum to fly cut the surface
flat; mill and bore a stepped throat hole to take the insert; cut insert
rings to fit. You could scrape the plate flat by hand with common
woodworking tools (although this level of Neandering is somewhat at odds
with the intended use). You could also try cutting the stepped throat with
the router. I don't see the point, though, since really good store bought
plates don't cost all that much.
http://www.incrementaltools.com/Prod...PALUMINUM%5FRT

I caught your other post. There's no reason that can't be made to work if
you don't mind changing plates when you turn a larger cutter. With the
Incra, I just stick a different insert onto the magnet that holds it down.
The inserts and the blanchard ground surface are the major differences.
This isn't at odds with my rant about gadgetizing and gimmickry. Some
things are real tools, and bargains if you have the need they fill.



Fly cut the plates? No reason to! Unless it is bent, 1/4" aluminum plate is
more than flat enough for wood working.
I agree that store bought plates are cheap enough, unless you get the
aluminum plate for free! If you have to buy the aluminum plate, it probably
is not worth making you own plates. Certainly when you consider the options
that store bought plates have.
Greg

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"Greg O" wrote in message
...



That is what I use.
I have two router plates, one with a smaller hole, and one with a huge
hole that I use a raised panel bit in. Both plates I made myself from
some scrape aluminum I got real cheap. I cut them to size with my table
saw and a carbide blade, and used a hole saw to bore the holes in the
center.
My router table is a box built out of 3/4 MDF with a piece of scrap
counter top for the work surface. I edge banded the counter top with
strips of oak, and cut a 4" hole in the side of the box for my dust
collector. I built a fence from 3/4" melamine and use a couple c-clamps
to hold it in place. I put a door in the front so I can adjust the
router, and the top just sits in place, guided with some scraps to keep
it in place. I probably have $5 in the whole thing and see no reason for
anything different.
Greg

Awesome, Greg. Would you mind providing the dimensions of the plate you
made? The aluminum you used didn't harm the TS blade or router bit after
using?

Viewing the McMaster Carr site, I can purchase a 1/4" thick 12" x 10" 6061
aluminum plate for under $19.00 but not sure if this would be too big and
I will also make my own fence and accessories.

Thanks


I am too lazy to go measure, but I built the plates just large enough to
drop the router through the opening in the table. Maybe 12" x 8". the 12" x
10" would work fine. Just make sure it is a couple inches wider than the
widest part of your router, (across the handles).
I have cut a fair amount of aluminum with my TS and router. I will not say
it is not hard on cutters or blades, but nothing excessive. Cutting out one
or two plates will not do any noticeable wear on your blades. Keep in mind
for cutting aluminum with a router you want a variable speed router, maybe
10,000 RPM. Any old carbide blade for the TS will work, fine tooth is
better. You will need to wear safety gasses!! Both tools throw aluminum
shavings that are hot and sharp! Not a real big deal but be careful!

I cut the recess in the router table top to match the plate. I left a step
that the plate sits on. This is the only thing I may change and that is to
just cut straight through the top, and add plates underneath, one in each
corner, with a set screw to adjust the height
of the plate.
Greg

On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:57:45 +0000, MikeWhy wrote
(in article ):

That'll work, too. I have an Incra plate now. It
replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate is
simple, well engineered, nicely machined and finished, and most important,
dead flat and level with the table top when installed.

I really like the look of that thing. It's the only commercial plate that I
think I'd go for, bar the exchange rate/shipping problem.
Anything to add to either sell me on the idea or put me off?

"Bored Borg" wrote in message
.com...
On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:57:45 +0000, MikeWhy wrote
(in article ):

That'll work, too. I have an Incra plate now. It
replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate is
simple, well engineered, nicely machined and finished, and most
important,
dead flat and level with the table top when installed.

I really like the look of that thing. It's the only commercial plate that
I
think I'd go for, bar the exchange rate/shipping problem.
Anything to add to either sell me on the idea or put me off?

Just a single nit. It comes with an eccentric cam hold down in one corner,
which probably fits into their table top somehow. I use a plunge router
under the table, and needed hold downs in all 4 corners. It was no big deal
to drill and countersink 3 more holes.

The problem with flat is that it's flatter than the formica laminate table
surface. What I thought initially were plate problems turned out to be a
slightly wavy surface on the laminate, not enough to interfere with the
work, but enough to feel when I go hunting around the edge. Who would've
thought... I probably got careless spreading the glue under the laminate.
The plate itself is very close to dead flat under a Starrett straightedge. I
could shim just a bit of the corner of a cigarette rolling paper under it at
a few spots. The insert levelers are pretty good also, and consistent from
insert to insert. I didn't run the dial indicator over it, but the
fingertips were happy with what they found.

It's not exactly a bargain at $80, but if flat is the only thing you'll
settle for, this one will do. I'm happy with mine.

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

Just a single nit. It comes with an eccentric cam hold down in one corner,
which probably fits into their table top somehow. I use a plunge router
under the table, and needed hold downs in all 4 corners. It was no big
deal to drill and countersink 3 more holes.

The problem with flat is that it's flatter than the formica laminate table
surface. What I thought initially were plate problems turned out to be a
slightly wavy surface on the laminate, not enough to interfere with the
work, but enough to feel when I go hunting around the edge. Who would've
thought... I probably got careless spreading the glue under the laminate.
The plate itself is very close to dead flat under a Starrett straightedge.
I could shim just a bit of the corner of a cigarette rolling paper under
it at a few spots. The insert levelers are pretty good also, and
consistent from insert to insert. I didn't run the dial indicator over it,
but the fingertips were happy with what they found.

It's not exactly a bargain at $80, but if flat is the only thing you'll
settle for, this one will do. I'm happy with mine.


Ok, I have just one question about all of this......what are you doing with
those cig rolling papers anyway?

"SBH" wrote in message
...

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

Just a single nit. It comes with an eccentric cam hold down in one
corner, which probably fits into their table top somehow. I use a plunge
router under the table, and needed hold downs in all 4 corners. It was no
big deal to drill and countersink 3 more holes.

The problem with flat is that it's flatter than the formica laminate
table surface. What I thought initially were plate problems turned out to
be a slightly wavy surface on the laminate, not enough to interfere with
the work, but enough to feel when I go hunting around the edge. Who
would've thought... I probably got careless spreading the glue under the
laminate. The plate itself is very close to dead flat under a Starrett
straightedge. I could shim just a bit of the corner of a cigarette
rolling paper under it at a few spots. The insert levelers are pretty
good also, and consistent from insert to insert. I didn't run the dial
indicator over it, but the fingertips were happy with what they found.

It's not exactly a bargain at $80, but if flat is the only thing you'll
settle for, this one will do. I'm happy with mine.


Ok, I have just one question about all of this......what are you doing
with those cig rolling papers anyway?

For shimming under straightedges, of course. I think I got that from a
Charlesworth video. Rolling papers mic out to about 1 thousandth. 20 lb bond
paper about 3 thousandths. We're not medicinally qualified in this
household.

"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...
"Greg O" wrote in message
...
"MikeWhy" wrote in message
...

When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable
because few of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum.

Pretty much everyone here has a table saw, what else do you need?
I cut my aluminum plates on my TS and even trim them with a VS
router and carbide bit on slow speed.

For a plate with inserts, a mill drill at minimum to fly cut the
surface flat; mill and bore a stepped throat hole to take the
insert; cut insert rings to fit. You could scrape the plate flat by
hand with common woodworking tools (although this level of
Neandering is somewhat at odds with the intended use). You could
also try cutting the stepped throat with the router. I don't see
the point, though, since really good store bought plates don't cost
all that much.
http://www.incrementaltools.com/Prod...PALUMINUM%5FRT

I caught your other post. There's no reason that can't be made to
work if you don't mind changing plates when you turn a larger
cutter. With the Incra, I just stick a different insert onto the
magnet that holds it down. The inserts and the blanchard ground
surface are the major differences. This isn't at odds with my rant
about gadgetizing and gimmickry. Some things are real tools, and
bargains if you have the need they fill.



Fly cut the plates? No reason to! Unless it is bent, 1/4" aluminum
plate is more than flat enough for wood working.
I agree that store bought plates are cheap enough, unless you get
the aluminum plate for free! If you have to buy the aluminum plate,
it probably is not worth making you own plates. Certainly when you
consider the options that store bought plates have.
Greg


You should be able to find 1/4" aluminum plate in a junk yard of any
size and usually
sold by the pound, At least in this area as there is a lot of metal
working industries here
Shipyards that is,
CC