I have progressed beyond the caresses and face frames and now need a good
jig for mounting the hinges or rather drilling the cups for the 35mm euro
hinges. I have been looking for a jig to perform this with repeatable
results and really the only thing I have come across is a set sold by
Rockler. It looks like a relatively easy jig to work with, but details are
sparse, so needless to say I am now asking the group for
advice/direction/preferences on hinge jigs.

As this is my first complete set of cabinets, the learning curve, materials
and additional tool purchases are beginning to take its toll in the
pocketbook. So while I am interested in all opinions and suggestions,
keeping it in the ballpark of the Rockler jig is my goal. If it turns out
not to be all realistic, so be it.

At the same time, what jigs is everybody using for draw slides
installations?

Thanking you in advance for your suggestions/comments.

"SteveA" wrote

Rockler. It looks like a relatively easy jig to work with, but details are
sparse, so needless to say I am now asking the group for
advice/direction/preferences on hinge jigs.

Do you have a drill press? Much quicker and easier than any kind of jig,
IME. Set a fence the required distance from the edge of the hole, make a
reference mark for each end of the door on the fence, and once set up you
can drill both hinge holes in a door in less than 30 seconds.

As this is my first complete set of cabinets, the learning curve,
materials and additional tool purchases are beginning to take its toll in
the pocketbook. So while I am interested in all opinions and suggestions,
keeping it in the ballpark of the Rockler jig is my goal. If it turns out
not to be all realistic, so be it.

At the same time, what jigs is everybody using for draw slides
installations?

For frameless cabinets I've used the Rockler jig, it's OK, but slow, IMO,
and I basically never taken it out of the shop after the first kitchen a few
years back.

I much prefer old fashioned spacers that reference either the cabinet floor,
the floor/dust frame of a drawer opening itself, or the spacer and the
previous set of slides in frameless box ... just something that you can rest
the slide on while pilot holing, with a vix bit, the first two holes in one
of the oversized screw slots for ease of adjustment before you crank things
down.

Quicker, and much more accurate for the way I work.

YMMV ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
I have progressed beyond the caresses and face frames and now need a good
jig for mounting the hinges or rather drilling the cups for the 35mm euro

Here's one from Lee Valley you might consider.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42311

At the same time, what jigs is everybody using for draw slides
installations?

Lee Valley also stocks a Kreg drawer slide jig that you might find useful.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=1,43456

On Dec 12, 12:06 am, "Swingman" wrote:

Do you have a drill press? Much quicker and easier than any kind of jig,
IME. Set a fence the required distance from the edge of the hole, make a
reference mark for each end of the door on the fence, and once set up you
can drill both hinge holes in a door in less than 30 seconds.

Second that. I did my last set on my peewee sized bench drill press
and it was a snap, doing just that. The oversized table was built
from scrap, and bolted onto the drill press table, and fine tuned for
placement with wing nuts mounted on the bolts that held it to the
drill press table.

At the same time, what jigs is everybody using for draw slides
installations?

No jig needed. Depending on the size of the drawers and slides, you
will probably have to add a spacer to the back of the cabinet before
mounting the socket for the slide if you are going typical carcass
style.

After building the fronts, I take a piece of soft 1X4 and press it
against the inside of the stiles, marking both sides of the drawer
openings with a pencil. These marks will show the the exact width of
the opening on your spacer (1X4) in the correct spacing needed.
(Pretty slick, eh?) If you don't have the tops on, this just takes a
minute or two.

Attach the sockets (remember, carcass style) to the ledger, with a
single screw in each. Attach the ledger to the back of the cabinet,
oriented properly and at the right height.

Put the hardware on the drawers and slip the outside piece of the
drawer into the socket and attach to the drawer stile.

Slide the drawer in. It may require a slight adjustment, but that's
why you only put in one screw.

Doing it this way, you can install the slides on a couple of drawers
in about 15 minutes if all goes well.

I have been using these:

http://www.knapeandvogt.com/1805_-_3_~~_4_Extension_Roller_Slide.html?page=details.7 4#details

If the wrap doesn't work, try this:

http://tinyurl.com/66pbo7

Make sure you click on the PDF on the right hand side of the page.
The PDF show you the installation socket, which you will need for
carcass style construction. But you can also use these as side mounts
as well.

(When side mounting, I do as Swing does. I cut a large spacer and
rest the slide on the spacer while attaching.)

These are nice slides, and finished well with epoxy finish. I buy
them in white, and they look great installed. They are easy to adjust
to just about perfect. The more you load them they better they roll,
too. Mounting under the edges of the drawer, they are a snap to get
together with no spacers needed. The drawer side of the slide simply
attaches to the bottom of the drawer - no measuring.

The KV 1805 slides are about $6 or so a pair, and the sockets are
about $2.50.

A word about the sockets for these slides. They are about two inches
long, so they are very adjustable. In putting a 1X4 ledger across the
cabinet backs, it gives me about 1 1/4" insertion into the socket, and
leaves plenty of room for any wall bulges or valleys in an installed
cabinet back wall that could screw up a more precise installation.

Robert

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
I have progressed beyond the caresses and face frames and now need a good
jig for mounting the hinges or rather drilling the cups for the 35mm euro
hinges. I have been looking for a jig to perform this with repeatable
results and really the only thing I have come across is a set sold by
Rockler. It looks like a relatively easy jig to work with, but details are
sparse, so needless to say I am now asking the group for
advice/direction/preferences on hinge jigs.

As this is my first complete set of cabinets, the learning curve,
materials and additional tool purchases are beginning to take its toll in
the pocketbook. So while I am interested in all opinions and suggestions,
keeping it in the ballpark of the Rockler jig is my goal. If it turns out
not to be all realistic, so be it.

At the same time, what jigs is everybody using for draw slides
installations?

Thanking you in advance for your suggestions/comments.


If you have a drill press, you need no jig, use a fence and stop block to
drill the hinge holes. I cannot say that I have ever used a jig for drawer
slides either. Use a piece of ply wood as a spacer/ height gauge.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 00:19:17 -0500, SteveA wrote:

I have progressed beyond the caresses ...

I hope that NEVER happens to me :-).

On Dec 11, 11:19*pm, "SteveA" wrote:
I have progressed beyond the caresses and face frames and now need a good
jig for mounting the hinges or rather drilling the cups for the 35mm euro
hinges.

I used a cheap drill press for many years before I got a professional
boring and inserting machine. You can do well if you clamp/bolt a
wide plywood table to the drill press table and put a fence along the
back. Repeatable results, and easy to use. Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.

woodstuff
www.tomswink.com

wrote in message
...
On Dec 11, 11:19 pm, "SteveA" wrote:
I have progressed beyond the caresses and face frames and now need a good
jig for mounting the hinges or rather drilling the cups for the 35mm euro
hinges.

I used a cheap drill press for many years before I got a professional
boring and inserting machine. You can do well if you clamp/bolt a
wide plywood table to the drill press table and put a fence along the
back. Repeatable results, and easy to use. Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.
..

Or, buy a 1-3/8" bit and probably save some money.

Somebody wrote:

Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.

Standard size Freud carbide forstner bit.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
Somebody wrote:

Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.

Standard size Freud carbide forstner bit.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...240,53317&ap=1

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Somebody wrote:

Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.

Standard size Freud carbide forstner bit.

Lew



35mm? Standard yes, but not as likely to be found every where Imperial
forstner bits are found.

Leon wrote:
Buy a 35 mm boring bit
from the cabinet shop supply that will make a flat bottom hole.
Standard size Freud carbide forstner bit.

Lew



35mm? Standard yes, but not as likely to be found every where Imperial
forstner bits are found.


It's in every home center and hardware store I've ever been in--- most
often in a pack with the little green plastic drill guide. But I've also
seen them in the drill bit section, with the other Forstner bits.
I think the rule of thumb is, if your store is inclusive enough to have
regular Forstner bits. it will have the 35mm.

In fact, I might be led to believe that the European hinge has become so
common, that a store would have a 35mm Forstner bit before it would have
other Forstner bits. You'd probably find it at Walmart with those same
hinges.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Leon" wrote:

35mm? Standard yes, but not as likely to be found every where
Imperial forstner bits are found.


It's included as standard in the "inch" set as standard, at least it
was in mine.

When I asked why a 35mm, "Blum hinge" was the answer.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote:

35mm? Standard yes, but not as likely to be found every where Imperial
forstner bits are found.


It's included as standard in the "inch" set as standard, at least it was
in mine.

When I asked why a 35mm, "Blum hinge" was the answer.

Lew



Well back 20 years ago when I first started using the Euro hinges the 35 mm
was available, for $42 or so. I passed, as my 1 3/8 bit did fine. My 25+
year old set of Forstner bits have no metric bits included. I finally
bought a 35 mm bit last year as my they are more common and Rockler had
carbide 35 mm ones on sale for $15.