cross posted RCM and RW

Ck'n back in hoping the mind numbing election noise has died down a bit.
I'm starting to build a small bandsaw mill so I can mill siding for my shop
and make wide plank hardwood flooring for my house (can't afford it unless I
make it). I like the plans and parts found @ www.linnlumber.com and plan on
buying some parts from them, just the machined stuff I either have
everything else in the stock/ scrap heap or can get it local...no sense in
shipping steel tubing across the country. Anyway I wanted to hear from the
RCM /RW crew on the subject especially if you have some experience. Also I
know I could find somebody with a portable mill to come over but I'm so sick
of the local talent not showing up (ect.) that I'd rather just do it myself
and besides it looks like a neat project.

Any Thoughts?

Andrew

I see horrible freight has a knockoff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99990

AndrewV wrote:
cross posted RCM and RW

Ck'n back in hoping the mind numbing election noise has died down a bit.
I'm starting to build a small bandsaw mill so I can mill siding for my shop
and make wide plank hardwood flooring for my house (can't afford it unless I
make it). I like the plans and parts found @ www.linnlumber.com and plan on
buying some parts from them, just the machined stuff I either have
everything else in the stock/ scrap heap or can get it local...no sense in
shipping steel tubing across the country. Anyway I wanted to hear from the
RCM /RW crew on the subject especially if you have some experience. Also I
know I could find somebody with a portable mill to come over but I'm so sick
of the local talent not showing up (ect.) that I'd rather just do it myself
and besides it looks like a neat project.

Any Thoughts?

Andrew

On Nov 7, 3:05*pm, "AndrewV"
wrote:
....
I'm starting *to build a small bandsaw mill so I can mill siding for my shop
and make wide plank hardwood flooring for my house (can't afford it unless I
make it). ...
Any Thoughts?
Andrew

http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/HomeMadeMachines#

The motorcycle wheels worked out well because they have their own
bearings on a simple-to-mount axle and the rear wheel has the drive
sprocket attached. The rear tire was already flat enough. I had to
grind the front tire to make a flat the width of the blade.

The frame is a simple ladder directly between the axles rather than
the usual C frame which would be much harder to make and align. The
wheels are large enough that it will cut up to 13" thick. The front
wheel is mounted in a sliding subframe for alignment and tensioning.

The engine is a 5.5 HP Tecumseh borrowed from a log splitter. It may
be on the light side but it's adequate. With it the 1-1/4" Suffolk
Timberwolf blade cuts dry oak at approximately 1" per second, running
at around 4000 feet per minute.

The project definitely required a lathe and milling machine and arc
welder, plus several hundred dollars for new shaft, bearings, pulleys,
etc, sized for 10 HP in case 5 proved too small.

This is the log storage shed which protects them from winter snow and
the dust from ATVs.
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...53360675148386
Green wood dries with fewer cracks if you brush wax on the ends to
slow drying. I used a toilet bowl ring dissolved in kerosine.

Good luck with it.
Jim Wilkins

On Fri, 7 Nov 2008 15:05:07 -0500, the infamous "AndrewV"
scrawled the following:

cross posted RCM and RW

Ck'n back in hoping the mind numbing election noise has died down a bit.
I'm starting to build a small bandsaw mill so I can mill siding for my shop
and make wide plank hardwood flooring for my house (can't afford it unless I
make it). I like the plans and parts found @ www.linnlumber.com and plan on
buying some parts from them, just the machined stuff I either have
everything else in the stock/ scrap heap or can get it local...no sense in
shipping steel tubing across the country. Anyway I wanted to hear from the
RCM /RW crew on the subject especially if you have some experience. Also I
know I could find somebody with a portable mill to come over but I'm so sick
of the local talent not showing up (ect.) that I'd rather just do it myself
and besides it looks like a neat project.

Check your costs against the HF model before you build. You might be
able to retrofit it to be a super saw for less. $1800 with 7hp engine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99990

I was in HF today and saw that they had new welding rod storage tubes,
with thick rubber washers, to keep your welding rod dry. Cool idea,
and on sale now at $4.99 a pop, cheap enough. Western Safety brand.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46477

--
To use fear as the friend it is, we must retrain and reprogram
ourselves...We must persistently and convincingly tell ourselves
that the fear is here--with its gift of energy and heightened
awareness--so we can do our best and learn the most in the new
situation.
-- Peter McWilliams, Life 101

On 2008-11-07, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
I was in HF today and saw that they had new welding rod storage tubes,
with thick rubber washers, to keep your welding rod dry. Cool idea,
and on sale now at $4.99 a pop, cheap enough. Western Safety brand.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46477

I have two of those, they work well.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Nov 7, 3:05 pm, "AndrewV"
wrote:
....
I'm starting to build a small bandsaw mill so I can mill siding for my
shop
and make wide plank hardwood flooring for my house (can't afford it unless
I
make it). ...
Any Thoughts?
Andrew

http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/HomeMadeMachines#

The motorcycle wheels worked out well because they have their own
bearings on a simple-to-mount axle and the rear wheel has the drive
sprocket attached. The rear tire was already flat enough. I had to
grind the front tire to make a flat the width of the blade.

The frame is a simple ladder directly between the axles rather than
the usual C frame which would be much harder to make and align. The
wheels are large enough that it will cut up to 13" thick. The front
wheel is mounted in a sliding subframe for alignment and tensioning.

The engine is a 5.5 HP Tecumseh borrowed from a log splitter. It may
be on the light side but it's adequate. With it the 1-1/4" Suffolk
Timberwolf blade cuts dry oak at approximately 1" per second, running
at around 4000 feet per minute.

The project definitely required a lathe and milling machine and arc
welder, plus several hundred dollars for new shaft, bearings, pulleys,
etc, sized for 10 HP in case 5 proved too small.

This is the log storage shed which protects them from winter snow and
the dust from ATVs.
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...53360675148386
Green wood dries with fewer cracks if you brush wax on the ends to
slow drying. I used a toilet bowl ring dissolved in kerosine.

Good luck with it.

Jim Wilkins


Nice job

I'm planing to buy parts like sheaves, bearings and shafts primarly because
I don't hav a lathe or mill and secondly to get proven for application
parts. I have a line on an 18 hp engine so I need to build the rest to
match. Do you sharpen your own blades or send them out? I was leaning toward
buying enough blades so I can send them out for now.

Andrew

"RoyJ" wrote in message
...
I see horrible freight has a knockoff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99990


Be afraid very very afraid.... I need 30" log capicity anyway. I'd be
interested in the 7hp @ 4000 rpm engine should be fun to watch for a little
while anyway.

Andrew

I'm starting *to build a small bandsaw mill
Any Thoughts?

Andrew

You can get some ideas here =

http://tinyurl.com/6kdhdu

Smitty

On Nov 8, 1:29*pm, " wrote:
I'm starting *to build a small bandsaw mill
Any Thoughts?
Andrew

You can get some ideas here =
http://tinyurl.com/6kdhdu
Smitty

And here;
http://www.diybandmill.com/

I'd check professional and hobby sized ones for HP sizes.
7hp sounds small for 30" anything. Linear speed of cut would
be small - if the blade didn't bind up in resin.

Martin

AndrewV wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
...
I see horrible freight has a knockoff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99990


Be afraid very very afraid.... I need 30" log capicity anyway. I'd be
interested in the 7hp @ 4000 rpm engine should be fun to watch for a little
while anyway.

Andrew

On Nov 8, 10:52*pm, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:
I'd check professional and hobby sized ones for HP sizes.
7hp sounds small for 30" anything. * Linear speed of cut would
be small - if the blade didn't bind up in resin.

Martin

The first bandsaw mill I built had a 1/2 HP electric motor. It was
extremely slow, of course, but it did make two dozen 9" wide planks. I
tried a large, coarse bandmill blade on it and got some improvement
until the small wheels cracked the blade. Based on two saws it seems
to me that you just push as hard as the motor allows.

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
I'd check professional and hobby sized ones for HP sizes.
7hp sounds small for 30" anything. Linear speed of cut would
be small - if the blade didn't bind up in resin.

Martin


I was kidding about the 7 hp engine@ 4000rpm as stated in the harbor fright
ad. All the small engine ads I've looked at lately (lots) state 3600 rpm as
a max governed speed. My pick for an engine and the plans I'm using call
for 15 hp min, 18 as an option & up to 24hp max. This is for gasoline
engines , diesel or an electric motor would be different.

Andrew
AndrewV wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
...
I see horrible freight has a knockoff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99990


Be afraid very very afraid.... I need 30" log capicity anyway. I'd be
interested in the 7hp @ 4000 rpm engine should be fun to watch for a
little while anyway.

Andrew