I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down into
the carpet. So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it push up
on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse turnbuckle.
Ideas so far:

--Mount small L-bracket into ceiling, cut stud a half-inch short of
ceiling. Use pry bar to push stud down into carpet while connecting
L-bracket to stud. Put male Velcro on bottom of stud so it will adhere
to carpet.

--Cut stud a quarter-inch short of the full height, then cut it at a
45-degree angle in the middle. Use radiator clamp or similar to make
the two angles slide past each other until stud presses against both
ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud an eighth-inch short of the full height, then use door shims
(one from each side) to compress it between ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud three inches short of full height, put a big lag screw in the
bottom end, and unscrew that until it presses down on a 4x4 block
resting on the carpet. Could use a hex bolt and nut rather than a lag
screw.

Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

Mr Downtown "Mr Downtown" wrote in
:

I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down
into the carpet. So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it
push up on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse
turnbuckle. Ideas so far:

--Mount small L-bracket into ceiling, cut stud a half-inch short of
ceiling. Use pry bar to push stud down into carpet while connecting
L-bracket to stud. Put male Velcro on bottom of stud so it will
adhere to carpet.

--Cut stud a quarter-inch short of the full height, then cut it at a
45-degree angle in the middle. Use radiator clamp or similar to make
the two angles slide past each other until stud presses against both
ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud an eighth-inch short of the full height, then use door
shims (one from each side) to compress it between ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud three inches short of full height, put a big lag screw in
the bottom end, and unscrew that until it presses down on a 4x4 block
resting on the carpet. Could use a hex bolt and nut rather than a lag
screw.

Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

Why not use one of those house jack poles? I'm not sure what they're
called, but they're metal poles installed under beams to hold the floor
up. Depending on how they're constructed, you might be able to drill a
1-2" hole in the top of your temporary wall and put the screw adjustment
piece through it.

Without knowing your specific purpose, it's going to be difficult to
suggest alternate solutions or point to one that may be better.

Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Mr Downtown" "Mr Downtown wrote:
I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down
into the carpet. So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it
push up on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse
turnbuckle. Ideas so far:

--Mount small L-bracket into ceiling, cut stud a half-inch short of
ceiling. Use pry bar to push stud down into carpet while connecting
L-bracket to stud. Put male Velcro on bottom of stud so it will
adhere to carpet.

Seems like a lot of work
_________

--Cut stud a quarter-inch short of the full height, then cut it at a
45-degree angle in the middle. Use radiator clamp or similar to make
the two angles slide past each other until stud presses against both
ceiling and carpet.

Might work but I'd think they wouldn't slide very easily
___________

--Cut stud an eighth-inch short of the full height, then use door
shims (one from each side) to compress it between ceiling and carpet.

Easy
__________

--Cut stud three inches short of full height, put a big lag screw in
the bottom end, and unscrew that until it presses down on a 4x4 block
resting on the carpet. Could use a hex bolt and nut rather than a lag
screw.

Better to use a T-nut in bottom and a bolt.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Aug 12, 12:21*am, Mr Downtown "Mr Downtown" wrote:
I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down into
the carpet. *So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it push up
on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse turnbuckle.
Ideas so far:

--Mount small L-bracket into ceiling, cut stud a half-inch short of
ceiling. *Use pry bar to push stud down into carpet while connecting
L-bracket to stud. *Put male Velcro on bottom of stud so it will adhere
to carpet.

--Cut stud a quarter-inch short of the full height, then cut it at a
45-degree angle in the middle. *Use radiator clamp or similar to make
the two angles slide past each other until stud presses against both
ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud an eighth-inch short of the full height, then use door shims
(one from each side) to compress it between ceiling and carpet.

--Cut stud three inches short of full height, put a big lag screw in the
bottom end, and unscrew that until it presses down on a 4x4 block
resting on the carpet. *Could use a hex bolt and nut rather than a lag
screw.

Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

What exactly is the temporary wall for? Is the idea to break it down
in large-ish pieces? If so, how big?

Why wouldn't you use metal studs and just have a few screws through
the top track into the ceiling/joists? Metal track top and bottom
would allow about an inch or more of adjustability.

R

In article , Mr Downtown "Mr Downtown" wrote:
I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down into
the carpet. So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it push up
on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse turnbuckle.
Ideas so far:
[snip of really rather silly ideas]
Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

On the off-chance that this is serious, and not a troll... just go to Home
Depot and buy yourself a house jack. That's *exactly* what they're made for.

Mr Downtown wrote:
I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down into
the carpet. So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it push up
on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse turnbuckle.

Is this for structural purposes, or purely cosmetic? If it's cosmetic
only, I would second the idea of using metal studs. Screw holes are
easy to fill later.

If structural, get a jack post.

Chris

On Aug 12, 9:46*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mr Downtown "Mr Downtown" wrote:I want to put up a sort of lightweight temporary wall, supported by a
"temporary" stud pushing up into a (concrete slab) ceiling and down into
the carpet. *So I'm trying to think of the best way to make it push up
on the ceiling and down on the floor--a sort of reverse turnbuckle.
Ideas so far:

[snip of really rather silly ideas]

Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

On the off-chance that this is serious, and not a troll... just go to Home
Depot and buy yourself a house jack. That's *exactly* what they're made for.

Talk about overkill. There's no point in spending twenty bucks a pop
as a substitute for a nickel in screws. The OP mentioned angle
brackets being attached to the ceiling with screws, so there's no
problem with building a standard wall, shimming between a doubled top
or bottom plate, and screwing into the ceiling.

R

Quit reinventing the wheel and use the oldest idea. The one carpenters
have used since the dawn of time.
Cut the stud(s) slightly longer than full height and pound them into
place with a hammer. The top & bottom plates(or wood scraps)
will protect the ceiling and floor.
Art

"Mr Downtown" "Mr Downtown" wrote in message
...

Comments on these, or altogether new ideas are welcomed.

Without knowing your specific purpose, it's going to be difficult to
suggest alternate solutions or point to one that may be better.

For decorative reasons, I'd like to put a slightly curved wall in one
corner of my condo living room. Because someday I'll sell it to someone
who might not want a curved wall in the same place, I'd like to make it
easily removable. The curved surface will be about 84 inches wide by
roughly 94 tall, and the curve will be about 45 degrees of arc.

I have read about this Neatform Bendy MDF, which sounds like the easiest
way for me to get a smooth-surface curved wall. But it sounds
relatively flimsy, so I thought it best to put up two or three "studs"
between my concrete slab ceiling and my carpeted floor. One of them
will be at the seam in the two pieces of Bendy (it comes 48 inches
wide). I'm just trying to think of a simple way to get the studs to
stand up straight without a lot of precise fitting or digging into
either ceiling or floor. The curve prevents me from using a traditional
channel on the ceiling. At one point I considered making a curved
"plate" of 3/4-inch plywood to put on ceiling and floor to describe the
curve, but that would be pretty heavy and difficult to suspend from the
ceiling using lead anchors. The ceiling has a popcorn finish that I
want to disturb as little as possible, as it's difficult to restore.

I will look into house jacks, but they seem like a bit of overkill.
Having the "stud" not move is more important than having it in
compression; compression is just a way to get it to stay in place.
Presumably there's no deflection in either ceiling or floor slab.

I figured I would just use drywall screws to attach the Bendy to the
studs. The extreme ends of the Bendy will probably be attached with
Velcro to molding fitted to the existing drywall--Velcro so I can easily
pry it loose and get behind it to remove it without a wrecking bar.
I'll do my best to cut it so it sort of friction fits between ceiling
and carpet, and eventually will try to figure out how to bend a simple
baseboard enough to match the curve. In an ideal world, I'd carefully
fit the edge of the Bendy to whatever existing imperfections are in the
existing drywall, but that may be a bit ambitious for me. The Bendy
will be a contrasting color to the rest of the wall, so it will read as
a different volume.

This is a project that has to be done in the living room itself, pretty
much with hand tools, although I am thinking of buying a circular saw or
maybe a Rotozip to cut the long runs on the Bendy.

What about this honest inquiry seems like trolling?

"Mr Downtown" wrote:

For decorative reasons, I'd like to put a slightly curved wall in
one corner of my condo living room. Because someday I'll sell it to
someone who might not want a curved wall in the same place, I'd like
to make it easily removable. The curved surface will be about 84
inches wide by roughly 94 tall, and the curve will be about 45
degrees of arc.


Build it as a slip in plug.

Layout the curve in 3/4 ply for the top and bottom pieces.

Cut 2x4 studs and install so they follow curve.

Cover curved surface with 1/4" poplar bending plywood.

Attach assembly to wall with brackets made from 3/4 ply and 2x4s, then
level out and trim out with moldings of choice.

Reverse process to remove (Maybe an hour's work at most)

Have fun

Lew