Hey all,

I know this may be a little simpler than most of the queries here, but
I am looking for a little design advice for an idea for a picnic table
for my deck.

I have a 16'x20' deck whici I built a few years back with 2 connecting
sides of the deck edged with built in benches.

I am interested in creating an 8 foot diameter round picnic table
which separates into two separate tables which each can be used on
their own.

Here is my draft mockup of the table(s)
http://www.chefjuke.com/pics/juketable.jpg

The idea is to be able to use the semi-circle tables along the side
benches for smaller gatherings but when there are more folks over,
they would be able to sit at one table and all see each other. If I
JUST made a large circular table in the center, it seems like it would
just dominate the deck and reduce the usefulness of the side benches.

My main design considerations that I am looking for input on areare..

Creating a leg configuration which is sturdy but not so bulky so that
the legs get in the way when the table sections are connected

an effective way to connect the two sections securely so that the
whole unit isn't too wobbly or uneven.


Thanks in advance

-Chef Juke
"EVERYbody Eats when they come to MY house!"
http://www.chefjuke.com

On Aug 10, 6:44 am, Chef Juke wrote:

...
I am interested in creating an 8 foot diameter round picnic table
which separates into two separate tables which each can be used on
their own.

Here is my draft mockup of the table(s)http://www.chefjuke.com/pics/juketable.jpg

..

Creating a leg configuration which is sturdy but not so bulky so that
the legs get in the way when the table sections are connected

an effective way to connect the two sections securely so that the
whole unit isn't too wobbly or uneven.


Great idea.

Will the straight section of the split top overhang the apron? If
not,
the two aprons could just be bolted together with a couple of carriage
bolts and wing nuts. If the top overhangs, the same thing can be
done with a removable block for each bolt that fills the gap between
the aprons. The blocks be bolted to the inside of the aprons when
the table is split. That will keep the blocks and bolts from getting
lost.

Bed rail connectors could probably be used too, but being made for
indoor use they would be prone to rust.

If the deck is very level and the tables heavy enough that they don't
bounce around you won't really have to lock them together.

--

FF

On Aug 10, 7:57*am, Fred the Red Shirt
wrote:
On Aug 10, 6:44 wrote:







...
I am interested in creating an 8 foot diameter round picnic table
which separates into two separate tables which each can be used on
their own.

Here is my draft mockup of the table(s)http://www.chefjuke.com/pics/juketable.jpg

..

Creating a leg configuration which is sturdy but not so bulky so that
the legs get in the way when the table sections are connected

an effective way to connect the two sections securely so that the
whole unit isn't too wobbly or uneven.

Great idea.

Will the straight section of the split top overhang the apron? *If
not,
the two aprons could just be bolted together with a couple of carriage
bolts and wing nuts. *If the top overhangs, the same thing can be
done with a removable block for each bolt that fills the gap between
the aprons. *The blocks be bolted to the inside of the aprons when
the table is split. *That will keep the blocks and bolts from getting
lost.

Bed rail connectors could probably be used too, but being made for
indoor use they would be prone to rust.

If the deck is very level and the tables heavy enough that they don't
bounce around you won't really have to lock them together.

--

FF- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The 'will' part is what I am working on now. It CAN, if I determine I
want it to. The more I think about this, the more I realize that what
I want to make is really just two identical semicircle tables. Each
table needs

that each need to have a leg structure that is strong but stays out
of the way of folks legs

(sorry, I'm at work this morning and using friggn googlegroups and
must have hit the wrong key sequence which sent the last message
prematurely)

I was saying that each table needs to have a leg structure that is
strong but stays out of the way of folks legs, and some way to secure
to the other table (this one is actually fairly easy...any number of
latches could work)

The reason I want the tables to latch is more to keep them from
separating (or just making sure the surface is even where they mate)
so if someone bumps or pushes against the table, we don't lose a
platter of corn, or whathaveyou.

-Chef Juke

On Aug 10, 11:56 am, Chef Juke wrote:
...

The 'will' part is what I am working on now. It CAN, if I determine I
want it to. The more I think about this, the more I realize that what
I want to make is really just two identical semicircle tables. Each
table needs that each need to have a leg structure that is strong
but stays out of the way of folks legs


Clearly three legs per half is a minimum and probably adequate
but four or more would work too so long as there is one at
each corner of the half-tables.

More challenging alternatives would be a split pedestal, or
two pedestals, each approximately centered on the
halves. I don't think I'd even try that.

--

FF

On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 09:03:36 -0700 (PDT), Fred the Red Shirt
wrote:

On Aug 10, 11:56 am, Chef Juke wrote:
...

The 'will' part is what I am working on now. It CAN, if I determine I
want it to. The more I think about this, the more I realize that what
I want to make is really just two identical semicircle tables. Each
table needs that each need to have a leg structure that is strong
but stays out of the way of folks legs


Clearly three legs per half is a minimum and probably adequate
but four or more would work too so long as there is one at
each corner of the half-tables.

More challenging alternatives would be a split pedestal, or
two pedestals, each approximately centered on the
halves. I don't think I'd even try that.

My thought was three legs per 1/2 table laid out in a triangular
pattern with one leg near each of the two corners where the table
split and one centered near the apex of the curved side.

Now I just have to figure out the best type and design of those legs
and stretchers.
-Chef Juke
"EVERYbody Eats when they come to MY house!"
http://www.chefjuke.com

"Chef Juke" wrote in message
Now I just have to figure out the best type and design of those legs
and stretchers.

How about two trestle legs per each semi-circle, with the trestles facing
the middle of a full circle and joined by crossed stretchers when you want
to join the table into a full circle? Each semi-circle should be able to
stand by itself with two trestles.

I've uploaded a suggested image to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.

Go he http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/
and download the software for picnic tables.

It could be very helpful for this project.


Chef Juke wrote:
(sorry, I'm at work this morning and using friggn googlegroups and
must have hit the wrong key sequence which sent the last message
prematurely)

I was saying that each table needs to have a leg structure that is
strong but stays out of the way of folks legs, and some way to secure
to the other table (this one is actually fairly easy...any number of
latches could work)

The reason I want the tables to latch is more to keep them from
separating (or just making sure the surface is even where they mate)
so if someone bumps or pushes against the table, we don't lose a
platter of corn, or whathaveyou.

-Chef Juke

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:32:16 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote:

Go he http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/
and download the software for picnic tables.

It could be very helpful for this project.


Actually the patio table software is more to the style I am looking
at, but unfortunately doesn't have enough flexibility in the leg
options to show me what I need.
-Chef Juke
"EVERYbody Eats when they come to MY house!"
http://www.chefjuke.com

What about a drop leaf design with a swing out leg ?That is simular to
one I built.
Jerry