Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2 sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?

On Apr 23, 6:59*am, Daniel Shryock wrote:
Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2 sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. *Will that be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. *I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?

Hi,
I dont like to mix red oak and white oak.. It can be done but it is
much harder to the get stain evenly matched. I would consider B1 ,
usint the good side as face for my project....

Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com

On Apr 23, 9:22 am, randyswoodshoop wrote:
On Apr 23, 6:59 am, Daniel Shryock wrote:

Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2 sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?

Hi,
I dont like to mix red oak and white oak.. It can be done but it is
much harder to the get stain evenly matched. I would consider B1 ,
usint the good side as face for my project....


Most people can't tell the difference between oak and ash or for
that matter rubberwood. But if it's your project every imperfection
stands out like a seed stuck between your teeth being felt by your
tongue.

He can eliminate problems with staining by not staining, either
leaving
the wood natural or toning, that is, using a colored film finish.

Would it not also be possible, though more expensive, to buy
twice as many sheets of plywood, each half the thickness called
for, and then laminate them to make his own 2-sided veneer
plywood?

--

FF

"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
...
Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2
sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that
be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?


Yes Red Oak would contrast, in color mostly if you are going with a clear
finish. How thick does the plywood need to be? Could you put 2 thinner
pieces back to back?

On 4/23/08 12:07 PM, in article ,
"Leon" wrote:


"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
...
Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2
sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that
be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?


Yes Red Oak would contrast, in color mostly if you are going with a clear
finish. How thick does the plywood need to be? Could you put 2 thinner
pieces back to back?


I need 1/4 so I don't think I could do back to back. And I'm thinking red
oak would be a bad idea considering my front legs and rear legs came from
two different pieces and already are a pretty serious differences in tone
(didn't pay enough attention when buying the stock). It would be
tri-colored. And for finishing I am planning on just wipe on poly (if that
helps). I'll probably be stuck spending 2x the amount for the white oak
unless anyone else could give a second opinion on ash?

And what does the "1" stand for in the grade anyway? I know B means there
will be small (what does small mean in ply? ) patches.

"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
...



On 4/23/08 12:07 PM, in article ,
"Leon" wrote:


"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
...
Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2
sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will
that
be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using
quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?


Yes Red Oak would contrast, in color mostly if you are going with a clear
finish. How thick does the plywood need to be? Could you put 2 thinner
pieces back to back?


I need 1/4 so I don't think I could do back to back. And I'm thinking red
oak would be a bad idea considering my front legs and rear legs came from
two different pieces and already are a pretty serious differences in tone
(didn't pay enough attention when buying the stock). It would be
tri-colored. And for finishing I am planning on just wipe on poly (if
that
helps). I'll probably be stuck spending 2x the amount for the white oak
unless anyone else could give a second opinion on ash?

Yeah, needing 1/4 in ch would be tough with 2 pieces although 1/8" is
available but not widely or commonly available in any particular species.

Something else to consider, it is often much better to use 2 complementary
color woods than try to match and "just miss it" An obvious contrast looks
intentional. A close but missed combination always looks "close but
missed".

For instance, Walnut goes will with Oak, or Cherry and Oak. The stark
change/contrast would help to draw one's eye away from the front and back
legs that are of slightly different color.




And what does the "1" stand for in the grade anyway? I know B means there
will be small (what does small mean in ply? ) patches.

IIRC "1" side. BC for instance would be both sides are the same species
but one side is a grade better than the other. B1 would be a B grade of the
species that you spedified on 1 side.

Leon wrote:
"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
And what does the "1" stand for in the grade anyway? I know B means there
will be small (what does small mean in ply? ) patches.


IIRC "1" side. BC for instance would be both sides are the same species
but one side is a grade better than the other. B1 would be a B grade of the
species that you spedified on 1 side.



Hardwood plywood with an ANSI grading number of 1 or 2:

Provide sound surfaces with all openings in the veneer repaired, except
for vertical worm holes not larger than 1/16".


See:

http://justwoodworking.com/charts/hardwood_plywood.php

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Apr 23, 12:07 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message

...

Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2
sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that
be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?

Yes Red Oak would contrast, in color mostly if you are going with a clear
finish. How thick does the plywood need to be? Could you put 2 thinner
pieces back to back?

The grain of flat sawn oak (which is typical of the face veneer of
plywood)
will contrast with quartersawn oak. The color of oaks vary a lot
within
red oak or white oak so you would really have to look at the pieces
before deciding if they clash with the plywood in color.

--

FF

Thanks for all the info guys! Appreciate it much. Just not trying to screw
up a piece I've already got so much money into :P


On 4/23/08 5:59 PM, in article
, "Fred the
Red Shirt" wrote:

On Apr 23, 12:07 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message

...

Hello, I am making a bookcase for a class and the buildup calls for 2
sided
veneer ply, but all I can find in the species I'm using is B1. Will that
be
good enough? Or should I go with a contrasting species. I'm using quarter
sawn white oak for the legs and streachers and shelf faces.
Would red oak be a weird contrast, I know it is more readily available?

Yes Red Oak would contrast, in color mostly if you are going with a clear
finish. How thick does the plywood need to be? Could you put 2 thinner
pieces back to back?

The grain of flat sawn oak (which is typical of the face veneer of
plywood)
will contrast with quartersawn oak. The color of oaks vary a lot
within
red oak or white oak so you would really have to look at the pieces
before deciding if they clash with the plywood in color.

--

FF

"Nova" wrote in message
news:EgMPj.5949$WU.3107@trndny08...
Leon wrote:
"Daniel Shryock" wrote in message
And what does the "1" stand for in the grade anyway? I know B means there
will be small (what does small mean in ply? ) patches.


IIRC "1" side. BC for instance would be both sides are the same species
but one side is a grade better than the other. B1 would be a B grade of
the species that you spedified on 1 side.



Hardwood plywood with an ANSI grading number of 1 or 2:

Provide sound surfaces with all openings in the veneer repaired, except
for vertical worm holes not larger than 1/16".


See:

http://justwoodworking.com/charts/hardwood_plywood.php


Thank you Jack