I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that the
bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough to fit
through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

The board is too big for the lathe or scroll saw, and a jig saw isn't
accurate enough.

Ideas?

If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe above?

Thanks,
DJ

On Mar 9, 7:32 pm, DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

10 to 15 degrees seems a bit shallow to give a positive seat, but a
positive seat may not be what you're after. if the taper providing a
big bearing surface means the peg is rotating I think that the taper
is going to give you problems with binding and jamming.



Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that the
bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough to fit
through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

The board is too big for the lathe or scroll saw, and a jig saw isn't
accurate enough.

Ideas?

countersink bit?



If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe above?

the stepped hole would probably be stronger. look up "counterbore"

writes:
10 to 15 degrees seems a bit shallow to give a positive seat, but a
positive seat may not be what you're after.

It's for a set of shelves; that peg holds the shelf up, as if the
shelf were hanging from the one above it (the peg is glued into a hole
in the turning above it). So, no rotating, it will all be glued
together. The physics of it all should be similar to how normal
dovetails work.

How about not making the end not a dovetail, but instat a single step like
this:

--- ----------------------
| |
- -
| |
---------------------------
It's easier to execute and looks exactly the same after assembly.

\Steve


wrote in message
...
On Mar 9, 7:32 pm, DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

10 to 15 degrees seems a bit shallow to give a positive seat, but a
positive seat may not be what you're after. if the taper providing a
big bearing surface means the peg is rotating I think that the taper
is going to give you problems with binding and jamming.



Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that the
bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough to fit
through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

The board is too big for the lathe or scroll saw, and a jig saw isn't
accurate enough.

Ideas?

countersink bit?



If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe above?

the stepped hole would probably be stronger. look up "counterbore"



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that
the bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough
to fit through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

#5404 would
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...arthtml/pages/
bit_dovetail.html

There are numerous others that would too but you'd have to put it
through the hole and then chuck it, position for height then turn on
router and us bit shank to guide on hole. For that matter, is there
any particular reason to bevel the hole through the entire thickness
of the 3/4" board? If not, you have many bits from which to choose.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that
the
bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough to fit
through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

The board is too big for the lathe or scroll saw, and a jig saw
isn't
accurate enough.

Ideas?

If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have
info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe
above?

If it's just one or two I'd whittle it out with a die grinder (or
Dremel) or an X-Acto knife. If you've got a bunch of them and can't
find a suitable countersink or router bit then get a spade bit of the
appropriate diameter and grind it to the right profile.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On 09 Mar 2008 22:32:47 -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:


I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole. By "dovetail peg" think
"wooden nail" except the head is tapered intead of just flat. A
turned dowel would be pushed through the hole, and the taper would
provide a big bearing surface. Pictu

| |
| |
| |
--------| |--------
/ \
/ \
-----/_________\-----

In my case, I want the angle to be more like 10-15 degrees, and the
thin end of the dowel to be about 1/2". The board is 3/4" thick.

Grizzly has a 15 degree bowl edge bit that would work except that the
bearing is 5/8" - a bit too big. A dovetail bit small enough to fit
through the 1/2" hole wouldn't reach across the 3/4" board.

The board is too big for the lathe or scroll saw, and a jig saw isn't
accurate enough.

Ideas?

There are "tapered end mills" but usually once you get up to 1/2" diam
hole there is only a couple degrees of taper.

There are also vertical panel raising bits that are similar to the
bowl bit you mentioned but they don't have a bearing at the end. I
think the small diameter is close to 5/8" still though.

And final idea, since you are making the pegs yourself, who says it
has to be a straight taper? You could use something like a 3/4"
radius plunge roundover and not plunge it full depth.


-Leuf

"Garage_Woodworks" .@. writes:
Countersink

Those are 41 degrees; I wanted 10-15 degrees.

"dadiOH" writes:
There are numerous others that would too but you'd have to put it
through the hole and then chuck it,

Before I route the bevel, the hole is 1/2" diameter all the way
through, so the bit has to fit in that size hole. If it did, I could
put it through after chucking it. The largest bits that are 1/2"
diameter a

8 deg 13/16" tall
10 deg 5/8" tall
14 deg 1/2" tall

I might be able to use the 10 degree one; that makes the radius 1/8"
bigger on the bottom (3/4 diam "head").

For that matter, is there any particular reason to bevel the hole
through the entire thickness of the 3/4" board?

Strength. I'll probably not go *all* the way through, just to avoid
making the exit hole any bigger. But, it's the side grain in the
dovetail peg that's doing the heavy lifting; the more of that I have,
the more it should hold.

On Mar 10, 10:26 am, DJ Delorie wrote:
"Garage_Woodworks" .@. writes:
Countersink

Those are 41 degrees; I wanted 10-15 degrees.

Here's a thought if all else fails. :-)
http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm

On Mar 9, 7:32*pm, DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole.

It's possible to use a sliding dovetail slot, with a slat, to do the
same
kind of shelf-holdup. That's something I've done.

Your stepped hole idea is much easier to make accurately, because
the wood dowel can wedge its way tighter in the hole, and the shelf
will slip down. The stepped hole and the dovetail dowel both suffer
from short-grain weakness... the larger contact area of a
sliding dovetail gets around that problem.

DJ Delorie wrote:
"dadiOH" writes:
There are numerous others that would too but you'd have to put it
through the hole and then chuck it,

Before I route the bevel, the hole is 1/2" diameter all the way
through, so the bit has to fit in that size hole. If it did, I could
put it through after chucking it. The largest bits that are 1/2"
diameter a

8 deg 13/16" tall
10 deg 5/8" tall
14 deg 1/2" tall

I might be able to use the 10 degree one; that makes the radius 1/8"
bigger on the bottom (3/4 diam "head").

For that matter, is there any particular reason to bevel the hole
through the entire thickness of the 3/4" board?

Strength. I'll probably not go *all* the way through, just to avoid
making the exit hole any bigger. But, it's the side grain in the
dovetail peg that's doing the heavy lifting; the more of that I have,
the more it should hold.

What holds the peg above? Will it be dovetailed or just straight and
glued?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

I went insane trying to take a
close-up picture of the horizon. - S.W.

whit3rd wrote:
On Mar 9, 7:32 pm, DJ Delorie wrote:
I'm designing a project that is calling for a dovetailed peg, but I
can't figure out how to drill the hole.

It's possible to use a sliding dovetail slot, with a slat, to do the
same
kind of shelf-holdup. That's something I've done.

Your stepped hole idea is much easier to make accurately, because
the wood dowel can wedge its way tighter in the hole, and the shelf
will slip down. The stepped hole and the dovetail dowel both suffer
from short-grain weakness... the larger contact area of a
sliding dovetail gets around that problem.

If the end doesn't show, I would make a tapered hole, use a straight
dowel split the end and drive in a wedge.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

I went insane trying to take a
close-up picture of the horizon. - S.W.

Gerald Ross writes:
What holds the peg above? Will it be dovetailed or just straight and
glued?

It's straight, glued into a drilled hole in the bottom of another
turning.

Gerald Ross writes:
If the end doesn't show, I would make a tapered hole, use a straight
dowel split the end and drive in a wedge.

It shows. Yes, I thought of that idea too :-)

On Mar 10, 1:41 pm, " wrote:
On Mar 10, 10:26 am, DJ Delorie wrote:

"Garage_Woodworks" .@. writes:
Countersink

Those are 41 degrees; I wanted 10-15 degrees.

Here's a thought if all else fails. :-)http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm

Actually that was the first tool that came to my mind.

--

FF

On Mar 10, 6:51 pm, Gerald Ross wrote:

...

What holds the peg above? Will it be dovetailed or just straight and
glued?


Dovetailed it at both ends would be a neat trick...

Actually he could use straight dowels split and wedged at
both ends.

--

FF

"StephenM" writes:
How about not making the end not a dovetail, but instat a single step like
this:

As I said:

If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe above?

"DJ Delorie" wrote in message
...

"StephenM" writes:
How about not making the end not a dovetail, but instat a single step
like
this:

As I said:

If I can't figure this out, I'll try a stepped hole. Anyone have info
on the comparative strengths of this vs the dovetail I describe above?

Build a test case.. I'll bet you can stand on it.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com