As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

"Smaug Ichorfang" wrote:

Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check

Look for "joker" AKA: "mechanical ass hole" valves.

They will be made of some kind of rubber.

Lew

"Smaug Ichorfang" wrote in message
...
As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

Do you know about or have you looked at www.Joewoodworker.com ? He has a
lot of veneer information and do it your self gear.

"Smaug Ichorfang" wrote in message
...
As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

fish tank's use check valves in air lines. perhaps something in that area?

Smaug Ichorfang wrote:
As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

I do not have an idea of what it cost but check out the website

http://www.coleparmer.com

The are a long standing lab supply company so they may have the parts
you are looing for

You may all so do a google search. As I said cole parmer is a lab
supply house and parts may be available through other laboratory type
companies.




--
Keith Nuttle
3110 Marquette Court
Indianapolis, IN 46268
317-802-0699

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:50:30 GMT, Smaug Ichorfang wrote:

As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

Check out Bill Noble, he's the king of used vac stuff and great ideas/info..
http://www.wbnoble.com/

He fixed me up a few years ago with pump and accessories to build my vacuum
chuck system for the lathe..
Nice guy and very knowledgeable..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 02:11:09 GMT, Keith nuttle
wrote:

Smaug Ichorfang wrote:
As I've posted before, I'm trying to get into veneering on the cheap. A
friend who does carbon fiber work gave me a Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. CP wants $50 for a new pump head.
Does anyone know where I can find *inexpensive* in-line one-way check
valves? I've done an internet search and made a boat-load of calls and
have not found any that would work. Your help is greatly appreciated

I do not have an idea of what it cost but check out the website

http://www.coleparmer.com

The are a long standing lab supply company so they may have the parts
you are looing for

You may all so do a google search. As I said cole parmer is a lab
supply house and parts may be available through other laboratory type
companies.


Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.
Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way, and guys
build laminated veneer surfboards and skateboards with vacuum cleaners
too.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:17:32 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.

Good way to burn out a vacuum cleaner motor.

Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way,

Lots of dead vacuum cleaners.


Vacuum cleaner motors are designed to be air-cooled. If you run them
into a vaccum, they overheat. Now you _might_ get an adequate vacuum
from this initially, you might even have few enough leaks that if you
cap it off then the clamping pressure will remain adequate until the
glue sets. However it's a hack and a bodge at best.

My best vac pump, genuine lab surplus, cost £25. For that little money,
why bodge?

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:17:32 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.

Good way to burn out a vacuum cleaner motor.

Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way,

Lots of dead vacuum cleaners.


Vacuum cleaner motors are designed to be air-cooled. If you run them
into a vaccum, they overheat. Now you _might_ get an adequate vacuum
from this initially, you might even have few enough leaks that if
you
cap it off then the clamping pressure will remain adequate until the
glue sets. However it's a hack and a bodge at best.

My best vac pump, genuine lab surplus, cost £25. For that little
money, why bodge?

Well, my Sears vacuum has a separate fan for the motor, so perhaps you
should not generalize.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

If you can't find anything by the end of march, write me. I have a
hanfull of little grey plastic valves that should work for you and you
can have them for $1 each. If you have an air compressor, I believe
HFT sells some sort of vacumn device that works off an air line.

I would think that, if you could produce a vacum and had the right
chck valves, you would not need to run the VC constantly and could
avoid the over heating mentioned.

PS, some nice links offered up on this thread. Thanks. Such are the
sort of "benefits" one hopes to find on such a list.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:27:06 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:17:32 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.

Good way to burn out a vacuum cleaner motor.

Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way,

Lots of dead vacuum cleaners.


Vacuum cleaner motors are designed to be air-cooled. If you run them
into a vaccum, they overheat. Now you _might_ get an adequate vacuum
from this initially, you might even have few enough leaks that if you
cap it off then the clamping pressure will remain adequate until the
glue sets. However it's a hack and a bodge at best.

My best vac pump, genuine lab surplus, cost £25. For that little money,
why bodge?

Depends on the vacuum cleaner. Note I said a GOOD vacuum cleaner. GOOD
vacuum cleaners have bypass cooling. Ametek Lamb motors are an
example. NONE of the cooling air goes through the vacuum, and NONE of
the vacuum air goes through the motor. Of all their motors, only a
very few (like the 119997 ) suck air through the motor.
The guys I know using them have not burned them out.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:40:02 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:17:32 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.

Good way to burn out a vacuum cleaner motor.

Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way,

Lots of dead vacuum cleaners.


Vacuum cleaner motors are designed to be air-cooled. If you run them
into a vaccum, they overheat. Now you _might_ get an adequate vacuum
from this initially, you might even have few enough leaks that if
you
cap it off then the clamping pressure will remain adequate until the
glue sets. However it's a hack and a bodge at best.

My best vac pump, genuine lab surplus, cost £25. For that little
money, why bodge?

Well, my Sears vacuum has a separate fan for the motor, so perhaps you
should not generalize.

--

Notice the use of "bodge". Sounds like a UK guy - must be those lucas
vacuum cleaners.


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:40:02 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:17:32 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Or just use a good vacuum cleaner.

Good way to burn out a vacuum cleaner motor.

Lots of aircraft builders vacuum bag composites that way,

Lots of dead vacuum cleaners.


Vacuum cleaner motors are designed to be air-cooled. If you run
them
into a vaccum, they overheat. Now you _might_ get an adequate
vacuum
from this initially, you might even have few enough leaks that if
you
cap it off then the clamping pressure will remain adequate until
the
glue sets. However it's a hack and a bodge at best.

My best vac pump, genuine lab surplus, cost £25. For that little
money, why bodge?

Well, my Sears vacuum has a separate fan for the motor, so perhaps
you should not generalize.

--

Notice the use of "bodge". Sounds like a UK guy - must be those
lucas
vacuum cleaners.

The only thing that Lucas makes that doesn't suck.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:26:01 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:



Depends on the vacuum cleaner. Note I said a GOOD vacuum cleaner. GOOD
vacuum cleaners have bypass cooling. Ametek Lamb motors are an
example. NONE of the cooling air goes through the vacuum, and NONE of
the vacuum air goes through the motor.

My Ametek Lamb powered HVLP rig uses a non-bleed spray gun by design.
I don't see a huge difference between shutting off the air on my gun,
and pulling a vacuum.

On Feb 22, 3:50*pm, Smaug Ichorfang wrote:
... Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". *The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. *CP wants $50 for a new pump head.. *

So, pay them. The reason those valves are in the pump head is
that the compression ratio of the pump depends critically on
the valves being close to the cylinder. If you put the valve on
a pipe, the ultimate vacuum that the pump pulls is compromised.

whit3rd wrote in news:f116fbf2-bf78-43ea-bcb9-
:

On Feb 22, 3:50*pm, Smaug Ichorfang wrote:
... Cole Parmer vacuum pump mod.
7530 "Air Cadet". *The problem is that the small diaphram-type one-way
valves in the pump head have gone bad. *CP wants $50 for a new pump head
. *

So, pay them. The reason those valves are in the pump head is
that the compression ratio of the pump depends critically on
the valves being close to the cylinder. If you put the valve on
a pipe, the ultimate vacuum that the pump pulls is compromised.



Pay them with what? I'm not know for my good looks. The reason I posted
asking for help is that I *have* no money or else I would just have bought
the parts.