New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

I put down a plastic vapor barrier then "shot down" 1x4 and 1x3 grid,
filled the open area with 3/4" styrofoam blocks and covered the whole
thing with 2 layers of 5/8" exterior plywood staggering the second layer
so no joints over joints. It's been great and did not take too much
from the room height.

BRuce

Harvey wrote:
New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.



--
---

BRuce

Bruce, knowing that concrete floors tend to be somewhat uneven, did this
cause you any problems? I'm thinking of putting down wood over a concrete
floor, but it seems there are some uneven spots so I'm debating whether I
need to shim the 1x's.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

BRuce wrote in message news:1068690229.170398@sj-nntpcache-5...
I put down a plastic vapor barrier then "shot down" 1x4 and 1x3 grid,
filled the open area with 3/4" styrofoam blocks and covered the whole
thing with 2 layers of 5/8" exterior plywood staggering the second layer
so no joints over joints. It's been great and did not take too much
from the room height.

BRuce

Harvey wrote:
New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood
flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.



--
---

BRuce

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:33:23 -0800, "Harvey"
brought forth from the murky depths:

New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

You don't. You seal it to keep the concrete dust out,
bring in your equipment, and then put down 400sf of
anti-fatigue matting. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


-------------------------------------------------------------
* * Humorous T-shirts Online
* Norm's Got Strings * Wondrous Website Design
* * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------------------

Or use a product called gyp-Crete. Holds up well.


On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:07:09 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:33:23 -0800, "Harvey"
brought forth from the murky depths:

New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

You don't. You seal it to keep the concrete dust out,
bring in your equipment, and then put down 400sf of
anti-fatigue matting. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


-------------------------------------------------------------
* * Humorous T-shirts Online
* Norm's Got Strings * Wondrous Website Design
* * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------------------

mine was even and level by design. We had the 3 car garage built with
the intent that 1/3rd would be shop. so when the concrete was poured
they had instructions to do 2/3 like a garage and make the last 1/3
smooth and level. Other wise I would have shimmed and leveled the 1x
"base". Our winters are not harsh here but the floor seems to stay
fairly warm regardless of the temp and rolling the Unisaw around does
not seem to bother it at all. Has been good to work on.


BRuce

Larry C in Auburn, WA wrote:
Bruce, knowing that concrete floors tend to be somewhat uneven, did this
cause you any problems? I'm thinking of putting down wood over a concrete
floor, but it seems there are some uneven spots so I'm debating whether I
need to shim the 1x's.

"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote in message
...
Or use a product called gyp-Crete. Holds up well.


I would not use the Gyp-Crete as a finish floor, or as a substitute for
concrete flooring. Gyp-crete is meant to be used as an underlayment-type,
most commonly poured over radiant floor tubing and sealed, then topped with
vinyl, tile, or glue-down flooring. It's not really wear resistant in and
of itself, and will wear and dust up very quickly in a shop environment.
It's also almost as hard as concrete, and won't provide any resilience.

Best recommendation is to put wood sleepers and plywood down. In my new
shop, in the planning stages right now, I'll be putting radiant tubing in
the concrete floor, fed by an outdoor woodburning furnace, and then laying
down 1-1/2" T&G pine flooring and a heavy coat of finish. Should be just
like the shop floor in high school. Resilient feel, won't kill your
back or feet, and it won't wreck tools if you drop them.

Jon E



On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:07:09 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:33:23 -0800, "Harvey"
brought forth from the murky depths:

New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood
flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

You don't. You seal it to keep the concrete dust out,
bring in your equipment, and then put down 400sf of
anti-fatigue matting. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


-------------------------------------------------------------
* * Humorous T-shirts Online
* Norm's Got Strings * Wondrous Website Design
* * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------------------

Since you raised the top level of the floor approximately 2 inches how did
you deal with the increased height of the door sill on exterior doors?
Brian

BRuce wrote in message news:1068690229.170398@sj-nntpcache-5...
I put down a plastic vapor barrier then "shot down" 1x4 and 1x3 grid,
filled the open area with 3/4" styrofoam blocks and covered the whole
thing with 2 layers of 5/8" exterior plywood staggering the second layer
so no joints over joints. It's been great and did not take too much
from the room height.

BRuce

Harvey wrote:
New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood
flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

I agree with assesssment of concrete/vs. wood flooring. But he could
level the floor with Gyp-Crtee and out down the sleepers then couln't
he? That was what I as thinking. We pourded some Gyp-Crete (or equal)
down and it hald up over 20 years in an industrial woodworking shop.
It will break if you hit it with a hammer because it is fairly brttle
but in his case, it would just be a filler.



On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:20:36 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
t wrote:

"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote in message
.. .
Or use a product called gyp-Crete. Holds up well.


I would not use the Gyp-Crete as a finish floor, or as a substitute for
concrete flooring. Gyp-crete is meant to be used as an underlayment-type,
most commonly poured over radiant floor tubing and sealed, then topped with
vinyl, tile, or glue-down flooring. It's not really wear resistant in and
of itself, and will wear and dust up very quickly in a shop environment.
It's also almost as hard as concrete, and won't provide any resilience.

Best recommendation is to put wood sleepers and plywood down. In my new
shop, in the planning stages right now, I'll be putting radiant tubing in
the concrete floor, fed by an outdoor woodburning furnace, and then laying
down 1-1/2" T&G pine flooring and a heavy coat of finish. Should be just
like the shop floor in high school. Resilient feel, won't kill your
back or feet, and it won't wreck tools if you drop them.

Jon E



On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 06:07:09 GMT, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 16:33:23 -0800, "Harvey"
brought forth from the murky depths:

New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood
flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

You don't. You seal it to keep the concrete dust out,
bring in your equipment, and then put down 400sf of
anti-fatigue matting. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


-------------------------------------------------------------
* * Humorous T-shirts Online
* Norm's Got Strings * Wondrous Website Design
* * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------------------

door was set on top of bottom plate of wall and I had them leave sill
off. After floor was installed, I needed about 3/8" to make the sill
level so used a piece of plywood to fill under the sill. There is a
slight step up from the outside but none inside.

The sliding door from the shop to the garage I ramped the floor down
inside the shop to the level of the concrete. that way I can wheel
stuff in and out. started about a foot inside the shop and it is in an
area that I don't walk much so there is no trip point. not much of a
slope 2" over 1'.

BRuce

Brian wrote:

Since you raised the top level of the floor approximately 2 inches how did
you deal with the increased height of the door sill on exterior doors?
Brian

BRuce wrote in message news:1068690229.170398@sj-nntpcache-5...

I put down a plastic vapor barrier then "shot down" 1x4 and 1x3 grid,
filled the open area with 3/4" styrofoam blocks and covered the whole
thing with 2 layers of 5/8" exterior plywood staggering the second layer
so no joints over joints. It's been great and did not take too much
from the room height.

BRuce

Harvey wrote:

New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood

flooring

to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

"Harvey" wrote in message
news:ejAsb.49$6G3.22@fed1read06...
New shop is about to be built, any suggestions on what type of wood
flooring
to put over the cement floor. Thank you for any advice given.

I recently solved the concrete floor problem in my shop. With the help of
this group I unearthed a product called 'Subflor', made in Canada. It
consists of 2' x 2' squares of T & G oriented strand board with a dimpled,
heavy plastic bonded to the bottom. The dimpled plastic provides for air
circulation beneath the floor, and water runoff as necessary. As installed,
it is a floating system needing no fastening to the floor. The 'finished'
floor thickness is 7/8" and is very comfortable to stand on. My equipment
doesn't bother the floor as far as weight is concerned. You can get more
information at www.subflor.com. I am not connected with this company except
as a happy customer.

Tin Woodsmn

Thanks for the reply BRuce.
Brian

BRuce wrote in message news:1068754787.389973@sj-nntpcache-3...
door was set on top of bottom plate of wall and I had them leave sill
off. After floor was installed, I needed about 3/8" to make the sill
level so used a piece of plywood to fill under the sill. There is a
slight step up from the outside but none inside.

"Brian" writes:

Since you raised the top level of the floor approximately 2 inches how did
you deal with the increased height of the door sill on exterior doors?

In the shop design I had drawn up, the door frames are mounted higher in
the walls so the thresholds will be even with the raised floor.

I'm trying to decide if I actually want to spend the money right now on my
shop building.

Brian Elfert