any thoughts on:

how to size up a used saw? take along a straight edge and measure flatness?
a dial indicator and check flange runout? run and listen? what are some
major wear signs?

which make to consider? jet, delta, powermatic

how much off retail to pay? I was thinking 40 to 60% off internet prices.

On Jan 28, 12:54*am, "Kevin"
wrote:
any thoughts on:

how to size up a used saw? *take along a straight edge and measure flatness?
a dial indicator and check flange runout? *run and listen? *what are some
major wear signs?

which make to consider? *jet, delta, powermatic

how much off retail to pay? *I was thinking 40 to 60% off internet prices.

You'll be amazed at the prices used cabinet saws command. They often
come within spitting distance of the price of a new saw. I'd stick
with Powermatic, General, Delta or Jet. The others may be fine saws,
but I'd worry about parts availability. For 40 to 60%, expect to do
some refurbishing. I'd say leave the fancy measuring tools at home
and rely on your general impressions.

You'll be cranking those handwheels a lot. Do they turn free and
smooth, or are there rough spots? Any play in the trunnion?

Grab the arbor and try to shake it. Bearings can be replaced, but you
want to know up front and figure that into the price. I can't imagine
how one would bend an arbor or flange, so I wouldn't worry too much
about runout. Runout is probably still as manufactured.

Are the fence and rails in good shape? Does the fence lock down
securely and consistently? If it's just misaligned, you can adjust
it, but if it's sloppy, forget it. The difference between a good
fence and a bad one is the difference between ecstacy and agony.

Does the motor start and run without unusual noises? A clunk on
startup is not unusual.

I can't for the life of me understand the obsession with table
flatness. Until the boards I'm cutting are flatter than my tabletop,
I don't see how it matters very much. Not saying it isn't important
at all, but I never saw a cabinet saw where the top was warped enough
to hurt. Unless the saw came from the factory warped, I'm not sure
how one would warp a cast-iron top if he wanted to without application
of large quantities of heat. If the wings aren't straight with the
top, you can adjust them.

Before you buy a used saw, check out the factory reconditioned units.
I bought one five years ago, and couldn't tell it wasn't new. I could
sell it today for what I paid. Not sure about where to get other
brands, but the only place to get factory conditioned Delta Unisaws is
Redmond Machinery in Atlanta. www.redmond-machinery.com They
treated me good.

DonkeyHody
"I'd rather expect the best from people and be wrong than expect the
worst and be right."

sounds like good news if ya own one, not if ya don't

I saw a Jet 3hp cabinet saw for 750; according to owner it was missing the
fence mounting rail. My guess is it sold for 100 less. No idea what
condition it was in though. I'm seeing used unisaw's for around 1300..
thinking maybe they would take 1000 cash.

I have the older Delte contractor saw -- made in the US -- with a 40" Bies.
I'd sell that to offset the cabinet saw acquisition. Sounds like $1000 for
the cabinet saw and maybe I get 5-600 for mine..

for now it's fun looking.. and thanks for the comments..



"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 12:54 am, "Kevin"
wrote:
any thoughts on:

how to size up a used saw? take along a straight edge and measure
flatness?
a dial indicator and check flange runout? run and listen? what are some
major wear signs?

which make to consider? jet, delta, powermatic

how much off retail to pay? I was thinking 40 to 60% off internet prices.

You'll be amazed at the prices used cabinet saws command. They often
come within spitting distance of the price of a new saw. I'd stick
with Powermatic, General, Delta or Jet. The others may be fine saws,
but I'd worry about parts availability. For 40 to 60%, expect to do
some refurbishing. I'd say leave the fancy measuring tools at home
and rely on your general impressions.

You'll be cranking those handwheels a lot. Do they turn free and
smooth, or are there rough spots? Any play in the trunnion?

Grab the arbor and try to shake it. Bearings can be replaced, but you
want to know up front and figure that into the price. I can't imagine
how one would bend an arbor or flange, so I wouldn't worry too much
about runout. Runout is probably still as manufactured.

Are the fence and rails in good shape? Does the fence lock down
securely and consistently? If it's just misaligned, you can adjust
it, but if it's sloppy, forget it. The difference between a good
fence and a bad one is the difference between ecstacy and agony.

Does the motor start and run without unusual noises? A clunk on
startup is not unusual.

I can't for the life of me understand the obsession with table
flatness. Until the boards I'm cutting are flatter than my tabletop,
I don't see how it matters very much. Not saying it isn't important
at all, but I never saw a cabinet saw where the top was warped enough
to hurt. Unless the saw came from the factory warped, I'm not sure
how one would warp a cast-iron top if he wanted to without application
of large quantities of heat. If the wings aren't straight with the
top, you can adjust them.

Before you buy a used saw, check out the factory reconditioned units.
I bought one five years ago, and couldn't tell it wasn't new. I could
sell it today for what I paid. Not sure about where to get other
brands, but the only place to get factory conditioned Delta Unisaws is
Redmond Machinery in Atlanta. www.redmond-machinery.com They
treated me good.

DonkeyHody
"I'd rather expect the best from people and be wrong than expect the
worst and be right."