Don't yet have a bandsaw but I do have a nice piece of 3/4" Maple that
I wanted to split so I tried it on the TS. I have a Jet contractor
saw with a Freud Diablo 50T combination blade. I had taken the time
to align everything and have minimal runout so I decided to try it on
the TS.

I cut the 1x6 to 20" long and set the blade height just under half the
width of the board. Then I installed the auxiliary fence that is 5"
high and grabbed a push stick. Thought about running a test board of
Pine or Poplar first but decided not to since they are not even close
to Maple's hardness. Started running the board through and it went
surprisingly easy. Flipped it end for end to keep the same side
against the fence and made the second cut. No problems.

My original plan was to finish up the sliver left in the middle with a
handsaw but all I have is an aggressive tooth saw that was biting too
hard. So I stood the board up and took a chisel to the end and it
split right in half. The results were of course not as good as you
would get with a bandsaw because of the 1/8" kerf but still looked
great.

If you want to try this yourself:
Make sure your saw is aligned properly - parallel and at 90deg
Have a sharp, clean blade installed
Use a push stick - http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
"...The most important safety tool of all, safety glasses"
Use high fence
Stand to the side in case of kickback

Be safe!

Actually you can easily cut all the way through a 1x6 in 2 passes with out
having to split the pieces. For several years I was resawing 1x6 Ipe, Ipe
is 2.5 times harder than Oak. At first I did the 2 shallower passes and
finished up with a recip saw but after resawing literally 100's of linear
feet of 1x6 Ipe I found that this could be done easier by going deep enough
to complete the cut on the second pass. Nothing exciting happens as long as
you are careful and take proper precautions.

I do advise using a splitter and feather boards on the front side of the
cut.

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in doing.





"RayV" wrote in message
...
Don't yet have a bandsaw but I do have a nice piece of 3/4" Maple that
I wanted to split so I tried it on the TS. I have a Jet contractor
saw with a Freud Diablo 50T combination blade. I had taken the time
to align everything and have minimal runout so I decided to try it on
the TS.

I cut the 1x6 to 20" long and set the blade height just under half the
width of the board. Then I installed the auxiliary fence that is 5"
high and grabbed a push stick. Thought about running a test board of
Pine or Poplar first but decided not to since they are not even close
to Maple's hardness. Started running the board through and it went
surprisingly easy. Flipped it end for end to keep the same side
against the fence and made the second cut. No problems.

My original plan was to finish up the sliver left in the middle with a
handsaw but all I have is an aggressive tooth saw that was biting too
hard. So I stood the board up and took a chisel to the end and it
split right in half. The results were of course not as good as you
would get with a bandsaw because of the 1/8" kerf but still looked
great.

If you want to try this yourself:
Make sure your saw is aligned properly - parallel and at 90deg
Have a sharp, clean blade installed
Use a push stick - http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
"...The most important safety tool of all, safety glasses"
Use high fence
Stand to the side in case of kickback

Be safe!

Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote
Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in
doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.

Well said on both counts ...

False confidence, such as that brought about by actions like "repetitive"
tasks, has a tendency to bite you sooner or later.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Yes, using the same face to the fence is important. It is also
important to square the faces of the stock on the three sides
involved, the two cutting faces and the face against the fence.

On Jan 17, 6:35*am, RayV wrote:
Don't yet have a bandsaw but I do have a nice piece of 3/4" Maple that
I wanted to split so I tried it on the TS. *I have a Jet contractor
saw with a Freud Diablo 50T combination blade. *I had taken the time
to align everything and have minimal runout so I decided to try it on
the TS.

I cut the 1x6 to 20" long and set the blade height just under half the
width of the board. *Then I installed the auxiliary fence that is 5"
high and grabbed a push stick. *Thought about running a test board of
Pine or Poplar first but decided not to since they are not even close
to Maple's hardness. *Started running the board through and it went
surprisingly easy. *Flipped it end for end to keep the same side
against the fence and made the second cut. *No problems.

My original plan was to finish up the sliver left in the middle with a
handsaw but all I have is an aggressive tooth saw that was biting too
hard. *So I stood the board up and took a chisel to the end and it
split right in half. *The results were of course not as good as you
would get with a bandsaw because of the 1/8" kerf but still looked
great.

If you want to try this yourself:
Make sure your saw is aligned properly - parallel and at 90deg
Have a sharp, clean blade installed
Use a push stick -http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
"...The most important safety tool of all, safety glasses"
Use high fence
Stand to the side in case of kickback

Be safe!

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote
Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in
doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.

Well said on both counts ...

False confidence, such as that brought about by actions like "repetitive"
tasks, has a tendency to bite you sooner or later.

Exactly. In the segmented stuff I make (for some unknown reason), a
piece can include hundreds of pieces - with twice as many runs through
the saw blade. After a while, and especially with a jig and sled, it
gets pretty monotonous and your attention can meander. I have
included all the usual lumps and guards against casual contact with
the blade on the jig, but you still have to keep your wits about you
when dealing with a 50 tooth, carbide tipped, 3200 RPM meat cutter.

And another thing, when something in the back of your mind says
"that's stupid", pay attention to that voice. The last "event" I had
was crosscutting a piece in a crosscut sled. I a hurry, I had marked
the edge of one side of the board with a mark, put the piece in the
sled with the mark towards the blade. There was a slight (1/16")
concave dip in the edge against the sled fence and I said to myself,
"That's going to pinch the blade" - right before I shoved it through.
It did, and although it wasn't too dramatic, it did make the sled jump
back and scare the hell out of me at the same time. DOH!



Greg G.

On Jan 17, 1:16*pm, Greg wrote:
Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote
Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in
doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.

Well said on both counts ...

False confidence, such as that brought about by actions like "repetitive"
tasks, has a tendency to bite you sooner or later.

Exactly. *In the segmented stuff I make (for some unknown reason), a
piece can include hundreds of pieces - with twice as many runs through
the saw blade. *After a while, and especially with a jig and sled, it
gets pretty monotonous and your attention can meander. *I have
included all the usual lumps and guards against casual contact with
the blade on the jig, but you still have to keep your wits about you
when dealing with a 50 tooth, carbide tipped, 3200 RPM meat cutter.

And another thing, when something in the back of your mind says
"that's stupid", pay attention to that voice. *The last "event" I had
was crosscutting a piece in a crosscut sled. *I a hurry, I had marked
the edge of one side of the board with a mark, put the piece in the
sled with the mark towards the blade. *There was a slight (1/16")
concave dip in the edge against the sled fence and I said to myself,
"That's going to pinch the blade" - right before I shoved it through.
It did, and although it wasn't too dramatic, it did make the sled jump
back and scare the hell out of me at the same time. *DOH!

Greg G.

Great information folks. I find the resawing process one of the most
scary on a table saw, so I pay a lot of attention. It is handy to have
a knee switch on your table saw so you can hit it if your hands are
tied up controlling the wood. I had to "knee" off my saw recently when
resawing a large piece. I am a bit of a safety nut. I wear apron,
hearing protection, safety glasses and mechanics gloves.

I did make the error of working when I shouldn't have and paid for it.
I was recovering from cancer surgery and going nuts. I decided to work
on a project in my shop. I did not realize how little stamina I had.
The result was a dizzy spell and two finger in the table saw blade!
Fortunately I did not lose either, but it was a painful experiance and
one I don't plan to repeat.
Dave G.

On Jan 17, 10:51*am, Dave wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:16*pm, Greg wrote:





Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote
Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in
doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.

Well said on both counts ...

False confidence, such as that brought about by actions like "repetitive"
tasks, has a tendency to bite you sooner or later.

Exactly. *In the segmented stuff I make (for some unknown reason), a
piece can include hundreds of pieces - with twice as many runs through
the saw blade. *After a while, and especially with a jig and sled, it
gets pretty monotonous and your attention can meander. *I have
included all the usual lumps and guards against casual contact with
the blade on the jig, but you still have to keep your wits about you
when dealing with a 50 tooth, carbide tipped, 3200 RPM meat cutter.

And another thing, when something in the back of your mind says
"that's stupid", pay attention to that voice. *The last "event" I had
was crosscutting a piece in a crosscut sled. *I a hurry, I had marked
the edge of one side of the board with a mark, put the piece in the
sled with the mark towards the blade. *There was a slight (1/16")
concave dip in the edge against the sled fence and I said to myself,
"That's going to pinch the blade" - right before I shoved it through.
It did, and although it wasn't too dramatic, it did make the sled jump
back and scare the hell out of me at the same time. *DOH!

Greg G.

Great information folks. I find the resawing process one of the most
scary on a table saw, so I pay a lot of attention. It is handy to have
a knee switch on your table saw so you can hit it if your hands are
tied up controlling the wood. I had to "knee" off my saw recently when
resawing a large piece. I am a bit of a safety nut. I wear apron,
hearing protection, safety glasses and mechanics gloves.


I'm with you on the safety but rarely wear gloves when working with
power tools. My thinking is I'd rather take the cuts & scrapes then
chance my whole hand being pulled in by the fabric or leather.

"RayV" wrote in message
...

I'm with you on the safety but rarely wear gloves when working with
power tools. My thinking is I'd rather take the cuts & scrapes then
chance my whole hand being pulled in by the fabric or leather.


FIY, fabric/leather gloves are typically not ever in a danger of being
pulled in. That is a popular misunderstanding.
Those type gloves can however get caught and pulled in on machines that do
not have sharp cutting edges when running such as the lathe and or a drill
bit on a drill press. For machines like the table saw the blade will simply
cut through the material and that will be that providing the incident does
not scare you and you jerk or flinch your hand into the blade.

The fabric is much softer and easier to cut than wood therefore it simply
cuts much like wood. This was discussed several years ago and to prove this
point I took a canvas/leather glove and deliberately pushed it into the
spinning blade on my TS. The blade simply cut through the leather/canvas
and left a clean 1/8" wide kerf. The glove sat still with the blade
spinning in the kerf after I stopped pushing.

I say this simply to point out that the glove will be cut and not be pulled
in. I agree with you however that the glove should not be worn as it may
introduce other problems such as the blade touching a part of the glove and
causing you to flinch. Additionally if you become accustomed to wearing
gloves around jointers, table saws and other machinery with sharp spinning
blades you may use the glove at the drill press and or lathe and that would
be an instance where the fabric would pull you in as it is not being cut but
simply being wrapped around an object that is not cutting.

RayV said:

On Jan 17, 10:51*am, Dave wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:16*pm, Greg wrote:

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote
Leon said:

...

As with any sawing operation, don't do what you are not confident in
doing.

And be careful, especially when you are.

Well said on both counts ...

False confidence, such as that brought about by actions like "repetitive"
tasks, has a tendency to bite you sooner or later.

Exactly. *In the segmented stuff I make (for some unknown reason), a
piece can include hundreds of pieces - with twice as many runs through
the saw blade. *After a while, and especially with a jig and sled, it
gets pretty monotonous and your attention can meander. *I have
included all the usual lumps and guards against casual contact with
the blade on the jig, but you still have to keep your wits about you
when dealing with a 50 tooth, carbide tipped, 3200 RPM meat cutter.

And another thing, when something in the back of your mind says
"that's stupid", pay attention to that voice. *The last "event" I had
was crosscutting a piece in a crosscut sled. *I a hurry, I had marked
the edge of one side of the board with a mark, put the piece in the
sled with the mark towards the blade. *There was a slight (1/16")
concave dip in the edge against the sled fence and I said to myself,
"That's going to pinch the blade" - right before I shoved it through.
It did, and although it wasn't too dramatic, it did make the sled jump
back and scare the hell out of me at the same time. *DOH!

Greg G.

Great information folks. I find the resawing process one of the most
scary on a table saw, so I pay a lot of attention. It is handy to have
a knee switch on your table saw so you can hit it if your hands are
tied up controlling the wood. I had to "knee" off my saw recently when
resawing a large piece. I am a bit of a safety nut. I wear apron,
hearing protection, safety glasses and mechanics gloves.


I'm with you on the safety but rarely wear gloves when working with
power tools. My thinking is I'd rather take the cuts & scrapes then
chance my whole hand being pulled in by the fabric or leather.

The only time I wear gloves is when handling fibreglass, shingles, or
picking up strange women in bars.


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote
or
picking up strange women in bars.

Nitrile, or latex? Nitriles by Member's Mark from Sam's are bigger, won't
tear ... and don't leave that ring in your wallet.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

RayV wrote in
:


I'm with you on the safety but rarely wear gloves when working with
power tools. My thinking is I'd rather take the cuts & scrapes then
chance my whole hand being pulled in by the fabric or leather.

I wore gloves using my new CMS yesterday. It was about 30F outside, and
I was working in an unheated building. I had the ones with the thin
cotton top and the latex covered palms. They're not that much bigger
than my hand normally, and actually provide better grip.

I figured frozen hands would be worse than the risk incurred from gloves.

Got most the wood cut, time to start assembling my frame for the ice
rink. :-)

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Swingman said:


"Greg G." wrote
or
picking up strange women in bars.

Nitrile, or latex? Nitriles by Member's Mark from Sam's are bigger, won't
tear ... and don't leave that ring in your wallet.

Nitrile? Didn't know they made 'em that way. I do have some nitrile
gloves used for finishing. Haven't been in a Sam's Club in 20 years
and WalMart only twice in 10 years. Don't carry them in my wallet
either - always thought that was a teenager thing. ;-)
And since moving back to GA, haven't met anything I would bother with
anyway. Which explains the trips to FL, CN, MA, and NY. Literacy,
sanity, and a nice ass are requirements in my advancing age. Boy, am I
going to pay for that statement...


Greg G.

On Jan 18, 8:49*am, "Leon" wrote:
"RayV" wrote in message

...

I'm with you on the safety but rarely wear gloves when working with
power tools. *My thinking is I'd rather take the cuts & scrapes then
chance my whole hand being pulled in by the fabric or leather.

FIY, fabric/leather gloves are typically not ever in a danger of being
pulled in. *That is a popular misunderstanding.
Those type gloves can however get caught and pulled in on machines that do
not have sharp cutting edges when running *such as the lathe and or a drill
bit on a drill press. *For machines like the table saw the blade will simply
cut through the material and that will be that providing the incident does
not scare you and you jerk or flinch your hand *into the blade.

The fabric is much softer and easier to cut than wood therefore it simply
cuts much like wood. *This was discussed several years ago and to prove this
point I took a canvas/leather glove and deliberately pushed it into the
spinning blade on my TS. *The blade simply cut through the leather/canvas
and left a clean 1/8" wide kerf. *The glove sat still with the blade
spinning in the kerf after I stopped pushing.

I say this simply to point out that the glove will be cut and not be pulled
in. *I agree with you however that the glove should not be worn as it may
introduce other problems such as the blade touching a part of the glove and
causing you to flinch. *Additionally if you become accustomed to wearing
gloves around jointers, table saws and other machinery with sharp spinning
blades you may use the glove at the drill press and or lathe and that would
be an instance where the fabric would pull you in as it is not being cut but
simply being wrapped around an object that is not cutting.

I wear gloves when operationg most of my power tools, except my drill
press. I wear them to protect my hands from minor cuts and splinters.
In addition they help reduce the vibration from sanders and provide a
bitter grip. I am a bit of a safety nut so I do pay attention to when
I should and should not be wearing them. Personally, I would rather
have them and take them off then not have them.

Leon,

I have much respect for your knowledge & experience in ww as I have
been reading your posts on the rec' for many years. However, I disagree
with your assessment of the safety of using gloves when operation the
TS. All the recommendations I have seen by the manufacturers, OSHA, and
various other sources all strongly advise that gloves NOT be worn, period.
I have seen your descripton of pushing the the glove into the spinning
blade. Sure, it will probably just be cut by the saw tooth 99% of the time,
but why take chances? How about trying your experiment with a deep-gullet
rip blade, and pushing the glove sideways into the blade? Are you still
so sure that it will be cut before it is pulled? I posting this
because I strongly feel that gloves should simply NOT BE WORN
when operating the table saw, and I don't believe in giving anyone
some sort of rationalization why it is OK to use them.





--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Dave" wrote in message
...

Snip

..

I wear gloves when operationg most of my power tools, except my drill
press. I wear them to protect my hands from minor cuts and splinters.
In addition they help reduce the vibration from sanders and provide a
bitter grip. I am a bit of a safety nut so I do pay attention to when
I should and should not be wearing them. Personally, I would rather
have them and take them off then not have them.


The key is to remember to take them off when you should, never letting the
inconvenience of doing so stop you from doing so, never forgetting, never
saying to yourself that you won't to this one time, never forgetting to do
so if in doubt, and remembering all of this every single time for the rest
of your life when working with power tools.

I have forgotten things in the past and will probably will again, I don't
wear gloves.

BTY, in 1989 after being a serious wood worker for 10+ years I thought I was
a safety nut and practiced safe procedures until I cut half of my thumb off
after turning the table saw OFF and was no longer cutting wood. Some times
the tool will get you when you are not actually using it to cut wood.

IMHO NO ONE knows all the safety procedures that should be taken but should
practice all of those that he or she does know. You simply cannot be
careful enough as we are only human, we make mistakes. Recognizing that
fact will go a long way to "help" prevent an accident.

NEVER let your guard down.

"Leon" wrote

after turning the table saw OFF and was no longer cutting wood. Some
times
the tool will get you when you are not actually using it to cut wood.

Boy Howdy, that fer damn sure, cher!

You've seen the scar from the 13 stitches on my almost "decapitated", nicely
"filleted" right thumb ... and there wasn't even a blade in the damn table
saw when it happened!

And it was still listed as a "Table Saw" accident for statistical purposes
at the ER.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Larry W" wrote in message
...

Leon,

I have much respect for your knowledge & experience in ww as I have
been reading your posts on the rec' for many years. However, I disagree
with your assessment of the safety of using gloves when operation the
TS. All the recommendations I have seen by the manufacturers, OSHA, and
various other sources all strongly advise that gloves NOT be worn, period.
I have seen your descripton of pushing the the glove into the spinning
blade. Sure, it will probably just be cut by the saw tooth 99% of the
time,
but why take chances? How about trying your experiment with a deep-gullet
rip blade, and pushing the glove sideways into the blade? Are you still
so sure that it will be cut before it is pulled? I posting this
because I strongly feel that gloves should simply NOT BE WORN
when operating the table saw, and I don't believe in giving anyone
some sort of rationalization why it is OK to use them.



Larry I apparently did not make my self totally clear. Thank you for
pointing that out. I wanted to simply say that the glove will cut like
wood. Past that statement all kinds of things can enter the equation that
can cause an accident that may be the fault of wearing gloves. The #1
problem with gloves is probably a false sense of security.
While there are 100's of ways the glove can be caught in any given
operation, I would say that is still highly unlikely that the fabric would
be pulled and not cut or torn by a hook/tooth traveling at over 100 mph.
Additionally the chances of being pulled in would increase with my method as
nothing was holding the glove to provide any resistance. A glove being held
by a hand would provide more resistance and be less likely of not being cut.

Having said that I agree, why take the chance? And to RayV, please don't
take my comment about the gloves as being contrary to using your head. I
meant to point out that the glove is more likely to get you into trouble in
other ways than being caught and pulled in by the blade.

Larry, I respect you views and thoughts and agree that gloves should not be
worn when working with woodworking machinery.

"Swingman" wrote in message
news
"Leon" wrote

after turning the table saw OFF and was no longer cutting wood. Some
times
the tool will get you when you are not actually using it to cut wood.

Boy Howdy, that fer damn sure, cher!

You've seen the scar from the 13 stitches on my almost "decapitated",
nicely
"filleted" right thumb ... and there wasn't even a blade in the damn table
saw when it happened!

And it was still listed as a "Table Saw" accident for statistical purposes
at the ER.


I guess we just have to be older to realize that we ain't invincible and
ANYTHING can happen.

Greg G. wrote:
Swingman said:


"Greg G." wrote
or
picking up strange women in bars.

Nitrile, or latex? Nitriles by Member's Mark from Sam's are bigger,
won't tear ... and don't leave that ring in your wallet.

Nitrile? Didn't know they made 'em that way. I do have some
nitrile
gloves used for finishing. Haven't been in a Sam's Club in 20
years
and WalMart only twice in 10 years.

Not meaning to change the subject but if you haven't been in Wal-Mart
in a while and you have any need for a small toolbox you might want to
drop by--they sell a nice 16 inch for 7 bucks--seems to be made in
Israel of all places. Translucent with some colored trim, or solid
puke yellow. Stack on top of each other and don't rock, have some
parts storage on the lid. The local Wally World got a lot of them in
just before Christmas--I got a couple then and wanted another one the
other day, so went back and got the last translucent one off the
shelf--they were lousy with the puke-yellow ones though. The
translucent ones are nice--light coming through the sides that it's
easy to find stuff in them. Have a few other models for under 10
bucks, all seem to be decent quality.

snip

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Leon" wrote

I guess we just have to be older to realize that we ain't invincible and
ANYTHING can happen.

Yep ... was recently, and recreationally, reading the county tax code on
property tax exemptions/deferrals that might just be available to the aged,
mentally deficient, sick lame and lazy, crippled and crazy, and, according
to that descriptive bit of bureaucratese, I _am_ officially f%^&%ing
"ELDERLY" this year.

Be careful, it could happen to you ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

I guess we just have to be older to realize that we ain't invincible and
ANYTHING can happen.

Yep ... was recently, and recreationally, reading the county tax code on
property tax exemptions/deferrals that might just be available to the
aged,
mentally deficient, sick lame and lazy, crippled and crazy, and, according
to that descriptive bit of bureaucratese, I _am_ officially f%^&%ing
"ELDERLY" this year.

Be careful, it could happen to you ...


I think I may be quickly approaching aged, the grocery girl no longer wants
to card me for wine. Crazy, the grocery girl laughs when I try to make her
"card me" when I buy wine. Crippled, the TS own one battle.

I still think I have yet to become sick, lame, or lazy.

"Leon" wrote

I still think I have yet to become sick, lame, or lazy.

Just remember, "Canasta keeps you flit and mentally asquirt."

.... or something like that.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 06:35:31 -0800 (PST), RayV
wrote:

Don't yet have a bandsaw but I do have a nice piece of 3/4" Maple that
I wanted to split so I tried it on the TS. I have a Jet contractor
saw with a Freud Diablo 50T combination blade. I had taken the time
to align everything and have minimal runout so I decided to try it on
the TS.

--- SNIP---

If you want to try this yourself:
Make sure your saw is aligned properly - parallel and at 90deg
Have a sharp, clean blade installed
Use a push stick - http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
"...The most important safety tool of all, safety glasses"
Use high fence
Stand to the side in case of kickback

Try a real rip blade...

In article , "Leon" wrote:

I think I may be quickly approaching aged, the grocery girl no longer wants
to card me for wine.

LOL -- I just came home from the grocery an hour or so ago with two bottles of
wine. My receipt says "Age verification bypassed".

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Jan 17, 9:35 am, RayV wrote:
Don't yet have a bandsaw but I do have a nice piece of 3/4" Maple that
I wanted to split so I tried it on the TS. I have a Jet contractor
saw with a Freud Diablo 50T combination blade. I had taken the time
to align everything and have minimal runout so I decided to try it on
the TS.

I cut the 1x6 to 20" long and set the blade height just under half the
width of the board. Then I installed the auxiliary fence that is 5"
high and grabbed a push stick. Thought about running a test board of
Pine or Poplar first but decided not to since they are not even close
to Maple's hardness. Started running the board through and it went
surprisingly easy. Flipped it end for end to keep the same side
against the fence and made the second cut. No problems.

My original plan was to finish up the sliver left in the middle with a
handsaw but all I have is an aggressive tooth saw that was biting too
hard. So I stood the board up and took a chisel to the end and it
split right in half. The results were of course not as good as you
would get with a bandsaw because of the 1/8" kerf but still looked
great.

1/8 or 5/32"?

My thin kerf Freud rip blade wanders on deep cuts. No probs if I
run the board twice, first cut only 3/4" deep.

If you want to try this yourself:
Make sure your saw is aligned properly - parallel and at 90deg
Have a sharp, clean blade installed
Use a push stick -http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
"...The most important safety tool of all, safety glasses"
Use high fence
Stand to the side in case of kickback

Be safe!

Joint the edges of the board square to help it stand up.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

I still think I have yet to become sick, lame, or lazy.

Just remember, "Canasta keeps you flit and mentally asquirt."


I am starting to forget how that game goes.... When is the Queen going to
pay a visit?

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
...
Snip


1/8 or 5/32"?


Ok you have my attention, 5/32" kerf? Where do you get that blade? Should
be very stable. Or do you mean 3/32" kerf?