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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe),
and I'm going to clean them up. I understand that many collectors are against refinishing the original japaning. However one planes japaning is flaking off and has exposed metal where there shouldn't be any exposed. What is the thoughts on redoing the finish on a plane at this point and how does it affect it from a collectors eye (I understand that these are fairly common, however I've stared the restoration and find it fun and may continue a real collection). |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
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#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
On Jan 5, 11:27 pm, DCH wrote:
yugami wrote in news:8fe28eea-e528-45a9-a34e- : I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe), and I'm going to clean them up. You are correct in that most collectors find refurbished planes to be of little value....but I think you're talking about an everyday user so its most likely not "collectable" any way... I noticed on a sellers site linked from "The Electric Neanderthal" that the going rate for a #4 Stanley in decent shape of my vintage seemed to be about 90-100 USD. Is this really? Makes me glad I only paid 38 shipped for mine. Had to derust it a tiny bit, but not so you'd notice. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
Yugami,
I've restored several old planes for my use. I like them to look good, but I'm not trying to maintain their "value" for future collectors. There are formulas out there for re-japanning planes. Lot of work, in my opinion. The suggested Rustoleum paint is another route. Looks good and stops rust. I decided to walk the middle line. I clean the plane well, usually using citric acid, then "restore" the missing japaning with black shoe polish. The liquid type that is meant to cover scuffs. The paste wax doesn't have enuf dye in it. I put on a couple of coats, let it dry, polish it with a brush, then add more clear wax when I do my final waxing of the plane. Looks "appropriate" to the age and condition of the plane, and seems to hold up. If you are interested in restoring old tools you might enjoy the "Old tools" listserv. Lots of good information and experience on cleaning, restoring and using hand tools. I can't get the site without loosing the message, so I'll add it as an add-on to this thread. I've learned a lot. Just a little grease, and a gentle push down the slippery slope of tool coll-- coll-- that is using. Old Guy Who was able to feed his sawdust addiction yesterday due to clement weather On Jan 5, 10:18*pm, yugami wrote: I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe), and I'm going to clean them up. I understand that many collectors are against refinishing the original japaning. *However one planes japaning is flaking off and has exposed metal where there shouldn't be any exposed. What is the thoughts on redoing the finish on a plane at this point and how does it affect it from a collectors eye (I understand that these are fairly common, however I've stared the restoration and find it fun and may continue a real collection). |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
Yugami,
The Old Tools (Galoots) list serv can be reached at http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools (For some reasons this doesn't show as a link.) I suggest you try it. There's a lot of information in the archive messages about plane restoration. You will find that you are among quite a collection of gentlemen if you participate. And then there's the rest of us. Old Guy On Jan 6, 7:23*am, Old Guy wrote: Yugami, I've restored several old planes for my use. *I like them to look good, but I'm not trying to maintain their "value" for future collectors. There are formulas out there for re-japanning planes. *Lot of work, in my opinion. The suggested Rustoleum paint is another route. *Looks good and stops rust. I decided to walk the middle line. *I clean the plane well, usually using citric acid, then "restore" the missing japaning with black shoe polish. *The liquid type that is meant to cover scuffs. *The paste wax doesn't have enuf dye in it. *I put on a couple of coats, let it dry, polish it with a *brush, then add more clear wax when I do my final waxing of the plane. *Looks "appropriate" to the age and condition of the plane, and seems to hold up. If you are interested in restoring old tools you might enjoy the "Old tools" listserv. *Lots of good information and experience on cleaning, restoring and using hand tools. *I can't get the site without loosing the message, so I'll add it as an add-on to this thread. *I've learned a lot. Just a little grease, and a gentle push down the slippery slope of tool coll-- coll-- that is using. Old Guy Who was able to feed his sawdust addiction yesterday due to clement weather On Jan 5, 10:18*pm, yugami wrote: I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe), and I'm going to clean them up. I understand that many collectors are against refinishing the original japaning. *However one planes japaning is flaking off and has exposed metal where there shouldn't be any exposed. What is the thoughts on redoing the finish on a plane at this point and how does it affect it from a collectors eye (I understand that these are fairly common, however I've stared the restoration and find it fun and may continue a real collection).- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
http://www.cianperez.com:80/Wood/Woo...DEX_How_To.htm
Right-hand side of the page, a little more than half-way down: two discussions of japanning. Good luck, Tom Dacon "yugami" wrote in message ... I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe), and I'm going to clean them up. I understand that many collectors are against refinishing the original japaning. However one planes japaning is flaking off and has exposed metal where there shouldn't be any exposed. What is the thoughts on redoing the finish on a plane at this point and how does it affect it from a collectors eye (I understand that these are fairly common, however I've stared the restoration and find it fun and may continue a real collection). |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
Thanks to all.
I think for this one I'll go the rustoleum route, as this #4 is going to be in my tools for working. I'll look into more one collecting later. Thanks for all the pointers and info. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
I had the same problem recently, for a plane that was my fathers, and
still gets a LOT of daily use. I got a can of the epoxy "Alumihyde) (sp??) from Brownells, the gun supply outfit. I was using it for some gunsmithing projects -- aluminum ejector housing on a Ruger revolver that I was working on. It sticks to most anything. Nice semi-matte finish. I've used it on quite a number of tools. Just my 2 cents... |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Re-japaning
In article ,
yugami wrote: I've found a few Stanley Baily planes (#3 and #4 - Type 16 i believe), and I'm going to clean them up. I understand that many collectors are against refinishing the original japaning. However one planes japaning is flaking off and has exposed metal where there shouldn't be any exposed. What is the thoughts on redoing the finish on a plane at this point and how does it affect it from a collectors eye (I understand that these are fairly common, however I've stared the restoration and find it fun and may continue a real collection). If you want to maintain the maximum collector value of a plane (or most any antique) then all the advice I have seen says to not do anything to the finish other than clean what is there. However, if you are planning on keeping the plane as a "user" without caring about collecter value (and a common Bailey #3 or 4 would not have much value to a collector anyway) then you can do what you want. I like to clean up, derust, and finish my user planes. I have found that rustoleum machinery black is looks pretty good and is difficult to distinguish from the factory finish. -- Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org |
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