http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside. Be pretty hard to burn one of these up. without
using thermite anyway. And once the vehicle projects are out of the
way, that'd free space for a wooden boat build.

We used them for various uses in the miliitary, including storage,
offices, and work spaces. So I've familiar with them. A bit limited
for side to side space with a vehicle, but loads better than what I've
got just now - which is work outside on the ground, or nothing. I can
cope.

However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

J T wrote:
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm



However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso


I've often thought about those things
too. For the same reasons as you. Almost
an instant shop. I wouldn't be worrying
about the flammability aspect, and I
don't care about getting a vehicle in one.

My situation would be the same as yours.
Wherever I put it, it would be on a
slight grade. Around here, if a
so-called building can be moved easily,
it's termed "portable" and doesn't have
to adhere to local codes as thoroughly.
Although the container doesn't have
wheels, I think it would still qualify
because all you'd need to do is hook it
with a cable and pull it onto a flatbed.

If that were the case, I would likely
shore it with 8x8s where it needed it
and skirt the bottom. If the local bldg
code people insisted it was truly a
building, it would be back to sono tubes
and proper support.

I'm guessing you're wondering about the
spacing of the shoring? I'd wonder about
that too. The things are designed to lie
flat on a bed or on pavement, so they
might warp in the middle. I'd space the
8x8s pretty close together, but maybe
the mfgr can advise on what that spacing
would be.

Methinks the local bldg code people in
NC aren't ever gonna find out about
yours tho.
--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Is yellow one of the three colors they will paint it?
I know you will want to torch in some windows or vents
for summer use. A man in my area along the coast
had inserted a roll-up door in one which made it
neat looking. He had repainted it all Hanjin blue over
the Logos and it looked great. Gone now or I would snap
a picture for you.

"J T" wrote

side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?

Limited experience with helping move one in. My Dad has had a steel one for
storing feed on his race horse farm for five or six years now. Being a farm
and having a tractor available made it relatively easy .... would definitely
want to have one available. Leveling wasn't a big problem because the land
is flat and we graded the spot it was put in beforehand. Surprising how easy
it was to jockey into position with one of the smaller tractors and front
loader bucket to put it on blocks/cross ties ... it was obvious the floor
would eventually rot/cross members rust if put directly on that gumbo clay.
The last few trips up there I've noticed that rust has been a slight
problem.

Secure and weather proof, for storage they're great, but having been in and
out of one in all sorts of weather, I would not want to work in a steel one
in any weather and would seriously consider one of the insulated reefers for
that purpose.

Same, same as being in one of those "Conex" containers in the rainy season
in RVN ... if you ever experienced trying to sleep in one to get away from
the rain/rats.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

if you have room for 2 of them, put them side by side with 20 or so
feet between. build a roof over the top, a fence across the back and a
gate across the front and you now have a semi- secure outdoor
workspace and 2 nice secure places to lock up your tools. if the space
for the second container isn't there, put one end of the roof on posts
and wrap the fence around that side.

the roof is probably pushing the definition of temporary storage as
far as your local building codes are concerned, but it'd be a quick
and cheap way to get some space.

On Dec 16, 10:54 am, wrote:
if you have room for 2 of them, put them side by side with 20 or so
feet between. build a roof over the top, a fence across the back and a
gate across the front and you now have a semi- secure outdoor
workspace and 2 nice secure places to lock up your tools. if the space
for the second container isn't there, put one end of the roof on posts
and wrap the fence around that side.

the roof is probably pushing the definition of temporary storage as
far as your local building codes are concerned, but it'd be a quick
and cheap way to get some space.

A local company turned one into an office.

They cut a whole in the side for a window and window shaker (A/C).
The inside was insulated and sheetrocked.
It was just sitting in the parking lot of the local industrial complex
for a while.
I'm not sure how they dealt with power, but they were definitely
connected somewhere.

It would be tight working inside IMHO.
Jim

I use 2 of them, one for long term storage with heavy duty shelves down one
side, the other for everyday storage & even decanting bulk flammables, it
has been equipped with static protection, rubber mats, grounded & exhaust
fans fitted......I have thought of insulating one & putting windows & a man
door in but as yet they are as they arrived. Very secure but freezing in the
winter, one is in the shade & does not get too hot in the summer, the other
in the open is not bad in the winter as long as there is sun. The only pain
in the butt is opening & closing them as is, some days I can't be bothered.
:-)

Jon~

"J T" wrote in message
...
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside. Be pretty hard to burn one of these up. without
using thermite anyway. And once the vehicle projects are out of the
way, that'd free space for a wooden boat build.

We used them for various uses in the miliitary, including storage,
offices, and work spaces. So I've familiar with them. A bit limited
for side to side space with a vehicle, but loads better than what I've
got just now - which is work outside on the ground, or nothing. I can
cope.

However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Dec 16, 3:19 am, (J T) wrote:
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside. Be pretty hard to burn one of these up. without
using thermite anyway. And once the vehicle projects are out of the
way, that'd free space for a wooden boat build.

We used them for various uses in the miliitary, including storage,
offices, and work spaces. So I've familiar with them. A bit limited
for side to side space with a vehicle, but loads better than what I've
got just now - which is work outside on the ground, or nothing. I can
cope.


I'm not sure these are the same things as the military metal
buildings...the ones I saw had a window or two and a door. These have
got end doors, and zip else, as you know. I have a friend who has two
of them. He bought them to store half-burned gear when his shop went
up in flames a year ago June. He sprayed them green, which is better
than blue with signs, but they don't exactly look wonderful anyway.
Not that he cares. I think your pricing is about what he paid, not
quite two grand delivered for each one. Hot as blue blazing hell in
summer, I can tell you that, and kind of tight, side-to-side, but
otherwise, as a temp shop, a decent idea.

Have you thought about buying a used trailer (mobile home, for the PC)
from one of the installers around? If you get it before they haul it
off, they might bring it in, set it up, and the total cost shouldn't
be over $2,000, giving you at least a semblance of heat and
electricity. Low ceilings, though. A local instrument maker started
out in a trailer as he built his current shop (he's been in that more
than 15 years, though).

On Dec 16, 3:19 am, (J T) wrote:
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside.

A double layer of cementitious board, at least 5/8" thick per layer,
should do the trick on the floor, one layer walls, maybe 3/8" ceiling
if you're really going to be flinging fire.

On Dec 16, 4:27 pm, Charlie Self wrote:
On Dec 16, 3:19 am, (J T) wrote:

http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside.

A double layer of cementitious board, at least 5/8" thick per layer,
should do the trick on the floor, one layer walls, maybe 3/8" ceiling
if you're really going to be flinging fire.

I am not aware of any 5/8" cement board. Who makes it? A single
layer of drywall does a better job than the cement board as the gypsum
releases moisture when it is near combustible temperatures. Sort of a
self-extinguishing feature. It's also a lot easier to work with and a
lot cheaper, plus it looks better, reflects more light, can be painted
more easily, etc.

R

"RicodJour" wrote
I am not aware of any 5/8" cement board. Who makes it?

DAGS: "Permabase"

I use it in lieu of Hardibacker for shower and tub enclosures for two
reasons ... it is less expensive than Hardibacker and equally effective, and
our City building code requires "5/8 drywall in any occupied building,
including the garage on property where an occupied building exits" so it is
easier to keep wall surfaces consistent with 5/8" Permabase.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/10/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 7:10am (EST-3) (bookman) doth
query:
Is yellow one of the three colors they will paint it? I know you will
want to torch in some windows or vents for summer use. A man in my area
along the coast had inserted a roll-up door in one which made it neat
looking. He had repainted it all Hanjin blue over the Logos and it
looked great. Gone now or I would snap a picture for you.

If I get one I'll paint it myself. May well paint the inside
yellow, but thinking northern hemisphere woodland camouflage for the
outside - I've got a lot of trees. Vents, maybe; windows, doubt it. I
figure a big fan at the back would do.
Shipping containers have double doors. Some storage containers are
available with roll-up doors, and some are even 10' wide. Those don't
seem to be near as available tho.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 03:19:20 -0500, (J T) wrote:

My neighbor used to have one.. about 30' long, I think..

Drawbacks were light and ventilation... we solved the light problem with lots of
florescent but not the air flow, as it was a rental..
If I owned a container, I'd put an opening skylight in, as big as practical and
affordable..

About the uneven ground.. can you kinda bury one end.. like scoop the high end
out instead of jacking up the container on the low end of the grade?


http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside. Be pretty hard to burn one of these up. without
using thermite anyway. And once the vehicle projects are out of the
way, that'd free space for a wooden boat build.

We used them for various uses in the miliitary, including storage,
offices, and work spaces. So I've familiar with them. A bit limited
for side to side space with a vehicle, but loads better than what I've
got just now - which is work outside on the ground, or nothing. I can
cope.

However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Dec 16, 7:22 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 03:19:20 -0500, (J T) wrote:

My neighbor used to have one.. about 30' long, I think..

Drawbacks were light and ventilation... we solved the light problem with lots of
florescent but not the air flow, as it was a rental..
If I owned a container, I'd put an opening skylight in, as big as practical and
affordable..

About the uneven ground.. can you kinda bury one end.. like scoop the high end
out instead of jacking up the container on the low end of the grade?


I also don't think that they need support much beyond the corners.
After all, they pick them up, fully loaded by the corners and fly them
through the air onto trucks. When they stack them, again fully loaded,
sometimes quite high, it is only the corners that support them.

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 9:28am (EST-1) (Swingman) doth
sayeth:
Limited experience with helping move one in. My snip I would not want
to work in a steel one in any weather and would seriously consider one
of the insulated reefers for that purpose.
Same, same as being in one of those "Conex" containers in the rainy
season in RVN ... if you ever experienced trying to sleep in one to get
away from the rain/rats.

If I get one I'd arrange for delivery, I'd think they'd put it
where I wanted I hope.

Usually pretty moderate weather here. It'd be in shade about 75%
of the day in the summer, and I think a big fan would work. At the
state fair one year, found a farm exhibit with a torpedo heater running
outside a tend, with some empty chairs. My youngr son and I spend about
half an hour there, in the wind, and it was like sitting in a warm, but
breezy, room. Amazing the heat that sucker put out. I'm sure a smaller
version would work just fine. I figure coud always insulate one without
too much prolems if called for.

I looked up CONEX. It means 'container express' and it's what the
military call their shipping containers - which are identical with the
civilian versions, except for the color. We had deluxe hootches, with
tin roofs, that completely insulated the sound of the rain. LMAO First
time I saw one of those rats was at night, almust startled the crap out
of me. I didn't know what the Hell the damn thing was, just knew it
wasn't any kind of animal I'd ever seen, and almost shot it with a .45.
Damn thing was about as long as my forearm, and that's not including the
tail. Man alone coulda been in a heap of trouble if those things
traveled in packs.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 7:54am (EST-3) doth sayeth:
if you have room for 2 of them, put them side by side with 20 or so feet
between. build a roof over the top snip of the rest

Then I'd be damn well moving into permit territory. If I was gonna
use a permit, I'd just build in the first place. In fact that's what
I'd do now, if I had the space free. I can upt up a structur 16X16
feet, or the equivalent square feet, or less, with no permit required.
That 256 squart feet. I could put in two of the 20' shipping
containers, no prob. The second I joing them, I'm waaay over the legal
limit, and the fine is a lot more costly than the permits would be. I
found out how they check on stuff like this. Satellite photos. Dam Big
Brother.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

'm not sure these are the same things as the military metal
buildings...the ones I saw had a window or two and a door. These have
got end doors, and zip else, snip Have you thought about buying a used
trailer snip

Same same, just that the military name is CONEX - container
express. If they had windows and doors, they must have been customized.

If I was just after more wood shop space, yep, I'd be happy to opt
for a trailer. But I want to be able to do some vehicle work inside,
and can't see getting a vehicle in one. I could take it all apart and
go thru the door, but then I'd have to take it apart again to get it
out.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 1:27pm (EST-3) (Charlie*Self)
doth adviseth:
A double layer of cementitious board, at least 5/8" thick per layer,
should do the trick on the floor, one layer walls, maybe 3/8" ceiling if
you're really going to be flinging fire.

Hmm, yeah, that'd work. Just don't have the space free to build
just now, don't wanna do it where the container would be going. Whcih
is why I'm probably going to have to opt for the container, for now.
Sometimes life is confusing.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 4:22pm (EST-3)
(mac*davis) doth query:
snip About the uneven ground.. can you kinda bury one end.. like scoop
the high end out instead of jacking up the container on the low end of
the grade?

Yep, but then one end would be lower than the other. The grade
would be side to side. I'm thinking some used railroad ties might be
the answer.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 4:28pm (EST-3) (Robatoy)
doth sayeth:
I also don't think that they need support much beyond the corners. After
all, they pick them up, fully loaded by the corners and fly them through
the air onto trucks. When they stack them, again fully loaded, sometimes
quite high, it is only the corners that support them.

Hmm, I'll have to doublecheck that. Sounds reasonable tho, and if
it's so, it'd simplify things a lot. OK guys, we can let him stick
around for awhile. LOL



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

"J T" wrote

I looked up CONEX. It means 'container express' and it's what the
military call their shipping containers - which are identical with the
civilian versions, except for the color.

There were about 8 x 8, IIRC. We had two one we slung under a Huey and
carried into the field for a shake and bake FDC.

We had deluxe hootches, with
tin roofs, that completely insulated the sound of the rain.

Huh? What did you say? "Roof"", what's that?? Can't hear you!

Acutally, we insulated our "roofs" (when we had 'em) with PSP, and added
just enough sandbags to keep those pesky Russian 82's from interrupting the
poker game.

LMAO First
time I saw one of those rats was at night, almust startled the crap out
of me. I didn't know what the Hell the damn thing was, just knew it
wasn't any kind of animal I'd ever seen, and almost shot it with a .45.
Damn thing was about as long as my forearm, and that's not including the
tail. Man alone coulda been in a heap of trouble if those things
traveled in packs.

Hehe ... yep. Along with a bottle or two of warm Tiger ****, you could gain
instant big game hunters status shooting, with M-16 soap bullets or the
montagnyard crossbow scored for the same purpose, the rats trying to crawl
into your fart sack. Used to hang'em on the hooch in the morning and count
coup with the other braves until mamasan picked 'em up to cook for her
breakfast.

Yessir, waking to the aroma of napalm, **** burning in mogas, and something
mysterious in the pot, was always conducive to good digestion and a feeling
of well being, eh?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/14/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Since this sounds like it will be a permanent addition I would think
seriously about well draining gravel or concrete pad. If you live in a
rainy area the weight of these on unimproved ground will cause it to sink,
enough to cause water problems, i.e. rotted floor or even water inside. We
used this extensively in my military career and they are great as long as
they are level and on ground or pad that drains well.

Mike
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
IYAAYAS
"J T" wrote in message
...
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

I'm supposed to be getting a 20X24 garage up, that would be sed for
some woodworking also - mainly boatbuilding dI hope. However life is
biting me in the ass on that for now, and no money isn't the problem.
So I'm starting to think quite seriously about getting one of these
steel shipping containers. Price is in the $1500 to $2000 USD range,
and delivery can be arranged. I'd say that's a very reasonable price
for an instant shop that size. I need something for working on
automotive projects in the very ner future, and this would seem to be
the best choice. I could also shift a lot of stuff out of my shop, my
arc welder for example, and that'd free up a whol load of space there.
I'd prefer a wood structure, but plan on a LOT of welding and grinding,
and afraid I'd wind up burning a wood shop down, no matter how well it
was prepared inside. Be pretty hard to burn one of these up. without
using thermite anyway. And once the vehicle projects are out of the
way, that'd free space for a wooden boat build.

We used them for various uses in the miliitary, including storage,
offices, and work spaces. So I've familiar with them. A bit limited
for side to side space with a vehicle, but loads better than what I've
got just now - which is work outside on the ground, or nothing. I can
cope.

However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 00:26:02 -0500, (J T) wrote:

Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 4:22pm (EST-3)
(mac*davis) doth query:
snip About the uneven ground.. can you kinda bury one end.. like scoop
the high end out instead of jacking up the container on the low end of
the grade?

Yep, but then one end would be lower than the other. The grade
would be side to side. I'm thinking some used railroad ties might be
the answer.


ok, how about finding someone with a back hoe and cutting the high side down..
like a "cut & fill"...
IMO, you'd be better having it as low as possible, rather that raising one
side..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 8:29am (EST-1) (Swingman) doth sayeth:
snip Yessir, waking to the aroma of napalm, **** burning in mogas, and
something mysterious in the pot, was always conducive to good digestion
and a feeling of well being, eh?

Great times with great guys. Can't say I'd want to do it again,
but still, glad I did. Definitely one of those, "If you weren't there
you'll never understand" moments.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 8:14am (EST-2) (asmurff) doth
sayeth:
Since this sounds like it will be a permanent addition I would think
seriously about well draining gravel or concrete pad. snip

I would hope to Hell not. Figuring maybe 2-3 years, hopefully, at
the most. Drainage should be no problem.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 9:19am (EST-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth:
ok, how about finding someone with a back hoe and cutting the high side
down.. like a "cut & fill"...
IMO, you'd be better having it as low as possible, rather that raising
one side..

The space available just son't allow it. May be able to cut a bit,
but will still wind up shoring the one side, no matter what. I'd love
to be able to put it flat, but that ain't happening.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:12:15 -0500, (J T) wrote:

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 8:29am (EST-1) (Swingman) doth sayeth:
snip Yessir, waking to the aroma of napalm, **** burning in mogas, and
something mysterious in the pot, was always conducive to good digestion
and a feeling of well being, eh?

Great times with great guys. Can't say I'd want to do it again,
but still, glad I did. Definitely one of those, "If you weren't there
you'll never understand" moments.



Hmm.. I still don't understand... or maybe I forgot...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:21:17 -0500, (J T) wrote:

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 9:19am (EST-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth:
ok, how about finding someone with a back hoe and cutting the high side
down.. like a "cut & fill"...
IMO, you'd be better having it as low as possible, rather that raising
one side..

The space available just son't allow it. May be able to cut a bit,
but will still wind up shoring the one side, no matter what. I'd love
to be able to put it flat, but that ain't happening.


well, at least cars won't roll sideways..
Added bonus is that when you drop a nut or bolt, you'll know which side to look
for it on..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Dec 16, 7:00 am, Tanus wrote:
J T wrote:
http://www.containersnow.com/contain...tails/1/15.htm

However, the only space I have that I can reasonably put one at
this time is on a minor grade. I think I can level a bit, end to end,
but not all. So, looks like Illd have to someone jack idt up on one
side, and short it up. So, if any of you have one of thes, and had to
shore it up, I'd like to know how you did it, and is it holding up well?

JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

I've often thought about those things
too. For the same reasons as you. Almost
an instant shop. I wouldn't be worrying
about the flammability aspect, and I
don't care about getting a vehicle in one.

My situation would be the same as yours.
Wherever I put it, it would be on a
slight grade. Around here, if a
so-called building can be moved easily,
it's termed "portable" and doesn't have
to adhere to local codes as thoroughly.
Although the container doesn't have
wheels, I think it would still qualify
because all you'd need to do is hook it
with a cable and pull it onto a flatbed.

If that were the case, I would likely
shore it with 8x8s where it needed it
and skirt the bottom. If the local bldg
code people insisted it was truly a
building, it would be back to sono tubes
and proper support.

I'm guessing you're wondering about the
spacing of the shoring? I'd wonder about
that too. The things are designed to lie
flat on a bed or on pavement, so they
might warp in the middle. I'd space the
8x8s pretty close together, but maybe
the mfgr can advise on what that spacing
would be.

Methinks the local bldg code people in
NC aren't ever gonna find out about
yours tho.
--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/


I don't think you need to worry about warping unless you plan a
tremendous load. Loook at the structure of the outside walls. There
are square tubes on top which would be under compression in order to
sag and the structures at the bottom of the walls (typically I-beams)
would be under strain. The top beam and the bottom beam cannot
separate since there is a constant weld seam connecting the side
panels and the beams. As long as the load is straight down, it's a
8-9' tall 40' long beam. I have a 40' high-cube used-to-be-a-Hanjin
container and the only way it's not really solid is in a twisting
fashion (opposite corners). Also, the lift points are at the corners
-- so when four points are hooked up to pull a container off a boat
the middle is wholly unsupported. I supported the ends of the
container and have a thousand or so BF of QSWO and probably 500 bf of
misc hardwood stacked on top right now. Also, some miscellaneous
sheet metal (say 1000#) and probably 1000# of other miscellany.
Probably 3-4 tons of stuff inside. If I remember I'll site down the
edge and check the deflection. SWMBO mandated that I keep the
container inside the pole building -- it doesn't waste that much space
if you stack stuff on top.

I use mine for storage not as a workspace -- it'd be pretty tight as
workspace. As storage, however, it's great; if you don't open the
doors much, a dehumidifier only pulls out a few (4) gallons a month
in the summer. Critter tight -- I have never replaced the open packet
of mouse poison in the corner.

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 2:01pm (EST-3)
(mac*davis) doth sayeth:
well, at least cars won't roll sideways.. Added bonus is that when you
drop a nut or bolt, you'll know which side to look for it on..

LOL



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 2:07pm (EST-3) (hex)
doth sayeth:
snip it'd be pretty tight as workspace. snip

Ah, but it's all relative. Even with my project vehcle in, which
would be on those roller thingies so could have one side next to the
wall, there'd be approx 30" of side space, which is actually more than I
have in my hallway - due to bookcases along one wall. The vehicle also
wouldn't take up but about half the length. Beats the Hell out of
working outside, on the ground, especially in the cold, and/or wet.
And, once the vehicle is out, if you consider that my present shop is
8'X12', that'd be a major space gain for me. I found out long ago,
you've got to look on the bright side. Actually, once the vehicle stuff
is done it'll be space to make a boat or two, and after that for storage
and metal working - welding, forging, put my metal lathe in, engine
builds, engine storage, and so on. Hell, just the thought of all this
makes me so happy I may decide to paint the inside yellow instead of
white. LOL



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Dec 17, 7:00 pm, (J T) wrote:
Mon, Dec 17, 2007, 2:07pm (EST-3) (hex)
doth sayeth:
snip it'd be pretty tight as workspace. snip

Ah, but it's all relative. Even with my project vehcle in, which
would be on those roller thingies so could have one side next to the
wall, there'd be approx 30" of side space, which is actually more than I
have in my hallway - due to bookcases along one wall. The vehicle also
wouldn't take up but about half the length. Beats the Hell out of
working outside, on the ground, especially in the cold, and/or wet.
And, once the vehicle is out, if you consider that my present shop i
8'X12', that'd be a major space gain for me. I found out long ago,
you've got to look on the bright side. Actually, once the vehicle stuff
is done it'll be space to make a boat or two, and after that for storage
and metal working - welding, forging, put my metal lathe in, engine
builds, engine storage, and so on. Hell, just the thought of all this
makes me so happy I may decide to paint the inside yellow instead of
white. LOL

JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

I hear you -- my first woodshop space was half a one-carriage garage.
("Carriage" because it was old and you had to park just right so the
car door would open into the walk door on the side to avoid crawling
out the window.) But that's what was available and I'd have jumped
for joy at the thought of 8w x9h x 40l and probably wondered what
steps I'd have to take to keep from getting lost in there.

Still, go with a high-cube if you can -- the extra height makes it
easier to light and you'll use the space. Here's a tip: most
containers have internal tie-down points about every 5 feet (maybe 2
meters) -- given some chain or rope and a flat piece of plywood or a
hollow core door with some 2x2's supports you can make suspended
shelving which folds up for cheap -- and it doesn't eat up any floor
space. (ascii art below). Maybe that's obvious, but I was happy
when I figured that out rather than putting conventional shelving in.

------ ceiling/roof-----
o
| \
| \
| \
| \
======

clear

space

here

------floor --------------------------


hex
-30-

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 19:02:14 -0800 (PST), hex
wrote:


I hear you -- my first woodshop space was half a one-carriage garage.
("Carriage" because it was old and you had to park just right so the
car door would open into the walk door on the side to avoid crawling
out the window.)

Wow.. you just produced a flashback, Hex..

The old detached garage at my folks house was so narrow that the only car the
family ever had that would fit in it was my 31 ford coupe..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Dec 16, 11:56 pm, (J T) wrote:
Sun, Dec 16, 2007, 7:54am (EST-3) doth sayeth:
if you have room for 2 of them, put them side by side with 20 or so feet
between. build a roof over the top snip of the rest

Then I'd be damn well moving into permit territory. If I was gonna
use a permit, I'd just build in the first place. In fact that's what
I'd do now, if I had the space free. I can upt up a structur 16X16
feet, or the equivalent square feet, or less, with no permit required.
That 256 squart feet. I could put in two of the 20' shipping
containers, no prob. The second I joing them, I'm waaay over the legal
limit, and the fine is a lot more costly than the permits would be. I
found out how they check on stuff like this. Satellite photos. Dam Big
Brother.


You're down in tarheel country, right? Don't you have the same deal we
have, no permits for agricultural uses? Get yourself a couple chickens
and call it a farm. I could have saved a couple hundred bucks when
building my shop a decade ago if I'd done that. Now, my wife is
agitating for chickens because she doesn't like WalMart eggs with
those pale yellow yolks...right at the time my doctor is telling me I
should eat just the damned whites!