Well I bought and installed a 35inch wide..by 46 high Anderson Arch
window...and need to finish the inside with interior window trim..
I could purchase direct from Anderson but the price was a bi
prohibitive..so Im thinking of making the trim myself using a router
..I dont have access t a band saw....
So Im going to try to use a router on an arm for cutting a 35 inch
diameter curve...

Im thinking f using Red wood or cedar...for the trim...

suggestions..thoughts?

"elliot" wrote in message
...
Well I bought and installed a 35inch wide..by 46 high Anderson Arch
window...and need to finish the inside with interior window trim..
I could purchase direct from Anderson but the price was a bi
prohibitive..so Im thinking of making the trim myself using a router
.I dont have access t a band saw....
So Im going to try to use a router on an arm for cutting a 35 inch
diameter curve...

Im thinking f using Red wood or cedar...for the trim...

suggestions..thoughts?




I think I would cut thin strips and bend them to fit. Build up until you
have the thickness/look you like.

elliot wrote:
Well I bought and installed a 35inch wide..by 46 high Anderson Arch
window...and need to finish the inside with interior window trim..
I could purchase direct from Anderson but the price was a bi
prohibitive..so Im thinking of making the trim myself using a router
.I dont have access t a band saw....
So Im going to try to use a router on an arm for cutting a 35 inch
diameter curve...

Im thinking f using Red wood or cedar...for the trim...

suggestions..thoughts?


Make a pattern from MFD or hardboard. Carpet tape the pattern to the
blank. Rough it out, within 1/16", with a jigsaw or coping saw. Use a
bearing guided straight bit to finish. Add thin strips with a shaped
face (think "cockbeading") to the edges to create relief and interest.
You can easily rout flutes to the face by making a curved edge guide.

If you're painting it, the main "board" can be birch ply, or if fluted, MDF.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 13:36:31 -0500, (elliot) wrote:

Well I bought and installed a 35inch wide..by 46 high Anderson Arch
window...and need to finish the inside with interior window trim..
I could purchase direct from Anderson but the price was a bi
prohibitive..so Im thinking of making the trim myself using a router
.I dont have access t a band saw....
So Im going to try to use a router on an arm for cutting a 35 inch
diameter curve...

Im thinking f using Red wood or cedar...for the trim...

suggestions..thoughts?

Barry's method (make a pattern first) is the way I usually do them.
I have cut the radius on the piece directly but with a hardwood it can
be a challenge. Since you're going with either redwood or cedar it
might not be too bad and a couple of passes for each radius will
probably do it.
Remember, you will have two different radius cuts to make. Also the
IR will cut from one side of the cutter and the OR will cut from the
other. So, if your IR is 35 add the width of the finished trim plus
the diameter of the cutter to 35 to get the OR. Now you have two
holes in your router jig and you want to pivot both from the same
point.... if that makes any sense.

Mike O.

On Nov 21, 11:25 pm, Mike O. wrote:
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 13:36:31 -0500, (elliot) wrote:
Well I bought and installed a 35inch wide..by 46 high Anderson Arch
window...and need to finish the inside with interior window trim..
I could purchase direct from Anderson but the price was a bi
prohibitive..so Im thinking of making the trim myself using a router
.I dont have access t a band saw....
So Im going to try to use a router on an arm for cutting a 35 inch
diameter curve...

Im thinking f using Red wood or cedar...for the trim...

suggestions..thoughts?

Barry's method (make a pattern first) is the way I usually do them.
I have cut the radius on the piece directly but with a hardwood it can
be a challenge. Since you're going with either redwood or cedar it
might not be too bad and a couple of passes for each radius will
probably do it.
Remember, you will have two different radius cuts to make. Also the
IR will cut from one side of the cutter and the OR will cut from the
other. So, if your IR is 35 add the width of the finished trim plus
the diameter of the cutter to 35 to get the OR. Now you have two
holes in your router jig and you want to pivot both from the same
point.... if that makes any sense.

And add an 1/8" to 1/4" reveal to the inside radius. The casing
shouldn't be flush with the jamb/extension.

R

To all:

Yes it does make sense and I appreciate the advice..
and re IR and OR thats an issue Im working on...when I set up the jig
fpor this..probably after Xmas as travel and family plans set my
schedules.


Im thinking of buying a new Router and considering one that drops down
or raises and lowers,,....sorry..my ability to recall the correct name
is simply fading with the years..

any reason to generally spend the extra money...?

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 15:58:43 -0500, (elliot) wrote:

Im thinking of buying a new Router and considering one that drops down
or raises and lowers,,....sorry..my ability to recall the correct name
is simply fading with the years..

any reason to generally spend the extra money...?

I think you mean a plunge router base. I have both PC and Bosch
routers and plunge bases for each brand. While I rarely need the
plunge base, there are times that I'm very happy to have them.
If you watch for the sales, you might find a price on the kit (2
bases) for not a lot more than just the router and standard base.

Mike O.

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:36:08 -0600, Mike O. wrote:

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 15:58:43 -0500, (elliot) wrote:

any reason to generally spend the extra money...?

I think you mean a plunge router base. I have both PC and Bosch
routers and plunge bases for each brand. While I rarely need the
plunge base, there are times that I'm very happy to have them.
If you watch for the sales, you might find a price on the kit (2
bases) for not a lot more than just the router and standard base.

What Mike said.

Most good brands (Bosch, DeWalt, Porter-Cable, Milwaukee, Makita,
etc...) make 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 or so HP variable speed combo kits, and
they're all comparably good. If you can get your hands on the
different models locally, you may find a preference to one or the
other, but you really can't go far wrong with any of them. This time
of year, many of them include some sort of bonus, like an edge guide.
The Craftsman 2 1/4 HP hit is a repackaged Bosch 1617EVS, so if you
see it on super sale...

While 90% of your routing might be with the straight base, there are
many useful operations where you simply need the plunge base. These
operations include mortising, stopped grooves and dados, and
hollowing.

Another useful feature on the plunge base is the stop turret. This
allows the user to do the cutting operation in steps, without actually
changing adjustments, for repeatability from part to part. A
straight base is usually much easier to handle for edge routing, with
a lower CG, which is why you wouldn't want only the plunge base.