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Printing Full Size Drawings
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most
of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"Frank Drackman" wrote in message
. .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Kinkos wouldn't be a bad bet. Just up the street from my house is a place that does a lot of blueprint services, among other things. They also print drawings from a number of formats. They can even print on vellum or mylar if that would be helpful. You might also try looking for a place like that. todd |
Printing Full Size Drawings
Using an old dot matrix printer and fan-fold paper, I can make full size
patterns of portions of a CAD drawings. Suits my purposes Gary "Frank Drackman" wrote in message . .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 28, 8:19 pm, "Frank Drackman" wrote:
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? I recently bought a HP 9800. Had a buddy cut me a stack of 13 x 19 vellum paper (From 28 x 20). That makes for a SuperB size print. Plenty big enough for shop use and making notations. I paid under $ 300.00 (Can$) for the printer. (It also does nice posters.) Anything, .dxf or .dwg I get from architects is all on CD or via e- Mail and revisions are also handled that way. The odd time I need a bigger drawing, most blue-print houses can handle .dxf and .dwg. How big do you need to go? r |
Printing Full Size Drawings
I print out all the individual sheets and then tape them together. It
isn't perfect but works. As well, you can then take the taped up sheets into a blueprint shop and they can run you a full size. Just another option. Cheers, cc "Frank Drackman" wrote in message . .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote
My guess is he mean full scale. That way, you can use them as templates. I once built a two story house from full scale plans. Worked out OK except I didn't realize the paper was curled. The roof leaked because of the way I made it curve to follow the plans. I probably should have joined the two halves of the house with nails instead of the Scotch tape like the plans had. Being a stickler for detail like you are, where did you find blue tuba4's? -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 8/08/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"Swingman" wrote in message ... "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote My guess is he mean full scale. That way, you can use them as templates. I once built a two story house from full scale plans. Worked out OK except I didn't realize the paper was curled. The roof leaked because of the way I made it curve to follow the plans. I probably should have joined the two halves of the house with nails instead of the Scotch tape like the plans had. Being a stickler for detail like you are, where did you find blue tuba4's? Had them special cut from blue spruce, of course. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 22:43:11 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:
There's no real benefit to doing so however unless the drawing is so complex that it becomes unreadable in smaller sizes. If you're thinking of using the drawing as a pattern, don't unless you're absolutely certain of the calibration of the printer. This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
Printing Full Size Drawings
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? They yellow pages. Almost any print shop should be able to print it out. Some times a little neighborhood shop is cheaper than a name store. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which
I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Yes, but all plotters should be calibrated anyway. I have couple of size E plotters (36" wide paper by any reasonable length - maybe up to 20' long or so) and I could tell you once the plotter is calibrated (one time calibration for all future plots) its more accurate than my wood working skills. Anyway you should work off the dimensions on the blue lines (or black lines) and not scale it off from the drawings. But for woodworking it doesn't matter all that much assuming the drawing is to the right scale off the plotter. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 29, 11:42 am, mac davis wrote:
* drum roll* *cymbal crash* (obligatory) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"mac davis" wrote
This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Pretty amazing how accurate even a run-of-the-mill ink jet printer is for doing 1":1" scale drawings from a CAD/drafting program. I print 1:1 scale drawings of parts, like corbels, curved chair back rails, and most any thing with a curve to it that will fit on legal size (8 1/2 x 14") paper, paste the printed copies on both the router pattern material and the project stock with Elmer's Glue, then rough cut the shapes on the band saw. You can still see the HP Ink Jet printed scale drawing pasted to the chair back router pattern in the following pictu http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Mis...rCrestJig0.JPG The dimensions are precise and the parts come out like they were cut with a cookie cutter. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 8/08/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
mac davis wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 22:43:11 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote: There's no real benefit to doing so however unless the drawing is so complex that it becomes unreadable in smaller sizes. If you're thinking of using the drawing as a pattern, don't unless you're absolutely certain of the calibration of the printer. This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Yes. Most printers don't have the same error horizontally that they do vertically and the amount of error is not constant across the page, so not only the dimensions but the proportions change. The amount of error may or may not matter for a given project, but you need to find out how much error there is before you can decide that. It's not all that hard to figure out--just make a drawing of a grid of half-inch squares, print it, then confirm that the lines are straight, the corners are square, and the squares alone one side and along the top or bottom are indeed all the same width within your allowable error tolerance. If they are you're good to go. If you're using Kinkos or the like though, you should do this each time you print because you don't know whether they might have done something that changed the calibration. mac Please remove splinters before emailing -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
** Frank ** wrote:
This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Yes, but all plotters should be calibrated anyway. I have couple of size E plotters (36" wide paper by any reasonable length - maybe up to 20' long or so) and I could tell you once the plotter is calibrated (one time calibration for all future plots) its more accurate than my wood working skills. Should be, but don't believe it unless you've tested it yourself or have the word of someone whose expertise you trust. And a production printer in a copy place I suspect that the utilization is high enough for wear and repairs to be an issue. Anyway you should work off the dimensions on the blue lines (or black lines) and not scale it off from the drawings. But for woodworking it doesn't matter all that much assuming the drawing is to the right scale off the plotter. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"Frank Drackman" wrote in message . .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Blueprint places can usually do large sheet copying. Max |
Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ...
mac davis wrote: .... snip certain of the calibration of the printer. This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Yes. Most printers don't have the same error horizontally that they do vertically and the amount of error is not constant across the page, so not only the dimensions but the proportions change. The amount of error may or may not matter for a given project, but you need to find out how much error there is before you can decide that. It's not all that hard to figure out--just make a drawing of a grid of half-inch squares, print it, then confirm that the lines are straight, the corners are square, and the squares alone one side and along the top or bottom are indeed all the same width within your allowable error tolerance. If they are you're good to go. Not surprisingly, paper like wood, expands and contracts with changes in moisture content. Since paper is thinner than your typical board, these changes can happen in minutes. I have seen errors in drawings over 3/16ths of an inch across a 36 inch piece of paper. If you are concerned about the calibration of the printer then you probably also need to be concerned about the media that you are drawing upon. I worked for 13 years for a company called CalComp that first made pen plotters and then large format electrostatic and inkjet printers. I did software development including the software for the positioning servos and calibration handling for several of CalComp's products. The pen plotters had the ability to be calibrated in both the x and y axis. This was done as part of the final stage of manufacturing. The specified accuracy and repeatability was 0.005 inch for any position on an E size (or A0 size) piece of media. The limiting factors for accuracy were primarily friction effects and the fact that paper is not a perfectly stiff media. The electrostatic and inkjets only had a calibration for the media travel path. The other axis was fixed by the manufacture of the print head on the electrostatics or a linear encoder on the ink jets. The accuracy for the media travel path was also 0.005 inch over a 44 inch E size piece of media. (I do not remember the accuracy specification for the other axis. It has been over 9 years.) As I said earlier, paper like wood, is subject to expansion and contraction with changes in moisture content. CalComp always specified accuracy with a mylar (instead of paper) media to avoid expansion issues. Since paper is so much thinner than the typical board, the size can change in only a few minutes when the paper's environment is changed. For best accuracy paper needed to taken out of its package or off of its roll and allowed to stabilized for 15 to 30 minutes before it is used. This is NOT going to happen at your local Kinko's. We had a drawing on one wall of our lab that was a 12 feet long of a locomotive. This was drawn on a pen plotter that would do the image in multiple sections. It would pull off 44 inches of paper off the roll and then draw one section. It would then pull off another 44 inches and draw the next section. This plotter had a user selectable time delay to allow the media to stabilize before drawing the next section. Lines that crossed section boundaries were a very sensitive indicator of alignment and accuracy issues. The locomotive was drawn with no time delay between sections. As a result, the paper was changing as the drawing was being made. Lines at the section boundaries that were drawn at the start of a section would align with their mates in the previous section. Lines that were drawn later in a section had errors as large as 3/16ths of an inch. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
I use an HP 36" plotter. Acquired from a company I worked for that went
bankrupt, and had me get rid of millions of dollars of equipment by throwing it in a dumpster. Don's ask who they were, but a very reputable company. I was able to save 2 items, a large format 24" color laser printer and the 36" plotter. Both came with enough supplies to last me 3 years! I print full size plans only when model making as I can glue the drawing onto the wood and cut to the lines, it works really well with cog wheels and smaller parts. Jon "Frank Drackman" wrote in message . .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? |
Printing Full Size Drawings
Dan Coby wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... mac davis wrote: ... snip certain of the calibration of the printer. This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Yes. Most printers don't have the same error horizontally that they do vertically and the amount of error is not constant across the page, so not only the dimensions but the proportions change. The amount of error may or may not matter for a given project, but you need to find out how much error there is before you can decide that. It's not all that hard to figure out--just make a drawing of a grid of half-inch squares, print it, then confirm that the lines are straight, the corners are square, and the squares alone one side and along the top or bottom are indeed all the same width within your allowable error tolerance. If they are you're good to go. Not surprisingly, paper like wood, expands and contracts with changes in moisture content. Since paper is thinner than your typical board, these changes can happen in minutes. I have seen errors in drawings over 3/16ths of an inch across a 36 inch piece of paper. If you are concerned about the calibration of the printer then you probably also need to be concerned about the media that you are drawing upon. A very good point. I worked for 13 years for a company called CalComp that first made pen plotters and then large format electrostatic and inkjet printers. I did software development including the software for the positioning servos and calibration handling for several of CalComp's products. The pen plotters had the ability to be calibrated in both the x and y axis. This was done as part of the final stage of manufacturing. The specified accuracy and repeatability was 0.005 inch for any position on an E size (or A0 size) piece of media. The limiting factors for accuracy were primarily friction effects and the fact that paper is not a perfectly stiff media. The electrostatic and inkjets only had a calibration for the media travel path. The other axis was fixed by the manufacture of the print head on the electrostatics or a linear encoder on the ink jets. The accuracy for the media travel path was also 0.005 inch over a 44 inch E size piece of media. (I do not remember the accuracy specification for the other axis. It has been over 9 years.) As I said earlier, paper like wood, is subject to expansion and contraction with changes in moisture content. CalComp always specified accuracy with a mylar (instead of paper) media to avoid expansion issues. Since paper is so much thinner than the typical board, the size can change in only a few minutes when the paper's environment is changed. For best accuracy paper needed to taken out of its package or off of its roll and allowed to stabilized for 15 to 30 minutes before it is used. This is NOT going to happen at your local Kinko's. We had a drawing on one wall of our lab that was a 12 feet long of a locomotive. This was drawn on a pen plotter that would do the image in multiple sections. It would pull off 44 inches of paper off the roll and then draw one section. It would then pull off another 44 inches and draw the next section. This plotter had a user selectable time delay to allow the media to stabilize before drawing the next section. Lines that crossed section boundaries were a very sensitive indicator of alignment and accuracy issues. The locomotive was drawn with no time delay between sections. As a result, the paper was changing as the drawing was being made. Lines at the section boundaries that were drawn at the start of a section would align with their mates in the previous section. Lines that were drawn later in a section had errors as large as 3/16ths of an inch. Kind of test that you can't really do with a raster plotter. I can see where that would be useful. Now I find myself wondering if Kinkos can print on film. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
Frank Drackman wrote:
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Kinko's can do it. You take 'em a diskette, they print the sucker. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
One word------Kinkos !!
"Frank Drackman" wrote in message . .. Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? |
Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
J T wrote: Sat, Sep 29, 2007, 3:04pm (EDT-1) (Jon) doth sayeth: snip I print full size plans only when model making as I can glue the drawing onto the wood and cut to the lines, it works really well with cog wheels and smaller parts. Been awhile since I've done it, so almost forgot. At times I make things with full size patterns glued on to the wood. The way I do it is print the pattern in sections, usually 3 to 5 sheets, depending on the project, on a standard Xero× machine. Trim them down, carefully align them, glue down. Some are going on 4 foot long. For what I do, works very well indeed - and have to travel no further than the nearest copy machine. I'd tell you all the fine details, but I don't want to. JOAT What is life without challenge and a constant stream of new humiliations? - Peter Egan The simple CAD program I have had around for years (AutoSketch) will print a large drawing tiled across as many standard sheets of paper you want. It will print registration marks to make the alignment easy to do. I have used this method occasionally to make patterns for the bandsaw. Usually I find a 1 to 1 print to be accurate enough for most of my uses. However the scale is totally adjustable in both x and y so it would be simplt to make a test print, measure and correct scale. John |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sat, 29 Sep 2007 10:02:41 -0700, Robatoy wrote:
On Sep 29, 11:42 am, mac davis wrote: * drum roll* *cymbal crash* (obligatory) Damn... you're mind reading again! As I was hitting "send", I thought that I SHOULD have included either a cymbal or rim shot.. lol mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 28, 8:19 pm, "Frank Drackman" wrote:
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Kinko's is fine. They have a printer plug in that converts your file to Kinko's version of a PDF and sends your file to whatever Kinko's you want for printing. If you don't print all that much it's a good way to go. R |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 28, 8:19 pm, "Frank Drackman" wrote:
Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Local colleges with architecture departments probably still use pen plotters capable of D sized sheets or larger. That said, I stopped using AutoCAD years ago. Butcher paper and #2 pencil inspire creativity better and will never go obsolete. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 29, 1:18 pm, "Swingman" wrote:
"mac davis" wrote This is probably a dumb question, but if they were full size plans, which I assume would be used for cutting out the parts, would calibration matter? Pretty amazing how accurate even a run-of-the-mill ink jet printer is for doing 1":1" scale drawings from a CAD/drafting program. I print 1:1 scale drawings of parts, like corbels, curved chair back rails, and most any thing with a curve to it that will fit on legal size (8 1/2 x 14") paper, paste the printed copies on both the router pattern material and the project stock with Elmer's Glue, then rough cut the shapes on the band saw. Wet paper stretches. Try solvent-based spray glue. A light, dusting coat will hold fine. You can still see the HP Ink Jet printed scale drawing pasted to the chair back router pattern in the following pictu http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Mis...rCrestJig0.JPG The dimensions are precise and the parts come out like they were cut with a cookie cutter. --www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 8/08/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
"Ferd Farkel" wrote
Wet paper stretches. Try solvent-based spray glue. A light, dusting coat will hold fine. Actually, that's what the Elmer's "glue" that I use is ... "Elmer's Spray Adhesive". Thanks for pointing that out. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 8/8/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
J T wrote:
Sun, Sep 30, 2007, 11:17am (EDT-3) (Ferd Farkel) doth sayeth: snip Butcher paper and #2 pencil inspire creativity better and will never go obsolete. Totally agree. Except I seldom use butcher paper. And I use the inexpensive plastic Pentel type mechanical pencils - about 10-12 for just a buck or two. Paper and pencil do seem to make the mind more creative somehow. Yeah, the mechanics of the software get in the way unless you've been using it so long that it's transparent to you. Now if you want to see something really cool try Corel Painter with Wacom Cintiq. But you can buy a lot of paper and pencils for the price of that setup. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 30, 3:53 pm, (J T) wrote:
Sun, Sep 30, 2007, 11:21am (EDT-3) (Ferd Farkel) doth sayeth: Wet paper stretches. Try solvent-based spray glue. A light, dusting coat will hold fine. Not a problem with what i do. I use Titebond II thinned half and half. Position the pattern on the wood, lift one edge, brush on the thinned glue, use the same brush to brush the paper smooth on the glue, lift the unglued half, repeat. Then brush on some more thinned glue over the top, taking care to brush out any air bubbles. Let it dry overnight, then cut it out when ready. Of course, if you don't want the paper to stay on the wood, this would probably be a major PITA to get it off, unless you planed it off, or were willing to spend the time sanding. There are only one or two type of projects I do this with (no, no pukey ducks, at least not yet), including labels. You can make some nifty, and intricate, hand-colored labels, IF you color them before you glue, it's not as easy after.. Some luthiers use Knox gelatin to glue labels inside their guitars. |
Printing Full Size Drawings
On Sep 30, 3:41 pm, (J T) wrote:
Sun, Sep 30, 2007, 11:17am (EDT-3) (Ferd Farkel) doth sayeth: snip Butcher paper and #2 pencil inspire creativity better and will never go obsolete. Totally agree. Except I seldom use butcher paper. And I use the inexpensive plastic Pentel type mechanical pencils - about 10-12 for just a buck or two. Paper and pencil do seem to make the mind more creative somehow. Easier to convey a sense of space and weight with a pencil than a monitor. CAD is unbeatable for precision, but precision is unnecessary (and a drag) for design work. JOAT "I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth." "Really? Why not?" "I don't know, thur. I didn't athk." |
Printing Full Size Drawings
I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Kinko's, Office Depot, some Staples are all places you can go but you will be paying almost twice as much as a blueprinter that architects, engineers & contractors go to. I am not saying to get blueprints since nobody in the construction industry uses them anymore, except maybe an old architect. You can also save your drawing in .pdf and .plt formats as well as .dxf and .dwg. As for using a printer to "scale" your drawing, not a good idea. most all printers will not scale it accurately. Just try it and measure the output yourself. At least Autocad can scale 1:1, 1:2 or any other scale whether it is architectural or engineering. I am sure you know this but when we have to scale any engineering drawings we do it X12. But when the engineer gets them back they can't seem to figure out how to turn them back (1/12) Pen Plotters: Ha!! If you do have access to one of these dinosaurs keep in mind it could take and hour or more to plot out your drawing, depending on how many layers you have versus the new plotters they have now, which any blueprinter should have which may take 2 minutes to plot. As previously mentioned, check out the yellow pages, call the blueprinter, find out if you can email your drawing to them and it will be printed out before you arrive or you can put it on a disc in any of the formats mentioned above and wait maybe 5 minutes. The only time I knew of someone going to Kinkos for a copy (8.5x11 or drawing size) is because it is late and the blueprinter has already closed for the night and they absolutely positively have to get their copies tonight. Hope this helps. Dave FL |
Printing Full Size Drawings
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Printing Full Size Drawings
"Dave" wrote in message
First off ... excellent, nice to know info on the other methods, BTW. Thanks! As for using a printer to "scale" your drawing, not a good idea. most all printers will not scale it accurately. That is surely true ... but, for most old country boys there's usually more than one way to skin a particular cat. :) So, just in case someone hasn't figured it out: I've used a CAD program (AutoSketch and its predecessor), along with a series of cheap ink jet printers down through the years, to print, to scale, small parts (less than 14" or so) for use as templates, with accurate results. As an example, below is a photo of the legal size printout (on a rather cheap HP 5510 printer) of the curved chair rail template that I used to make a batch of 7 identical chairs, with a ruler laying on top as "the judge". http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/12.5template.JPG (It's a cheap digital camera, so if you zoom in, be careful that the distortion/parallax of the camera lens on the "0" ruler edge and "12.5" marks doesn't fool you ... take a look at the 6 1/4" mark on the ruler instead, to get a better idea of the accuracy) At least Autocad can scale 1:1, 1:2 or any other scale whether it is architectural or engineering. Bingo! ... On one printer I no longer use, I had to use a scale of 1" : ..995" in the CAD program, arrived at by trial and error, to get a "scale" drawing to print out accurately on legal size paper. (I should have mentioned that fact in the original post). On the HP5510 I now use as a shop printer, a 1":1" scale has worked fine ... thus far. IOW, if you're determined and have no other tools at hand, you can get excellent results ... AAMOF, I don't think I can cut to the approximately 1/128" error that showed on that particular ruler in the photo, in any event. On my "project tape measure", you could not see/measure any error on the parts cut. But you're right, you can't just take it for granted, you must measure to make sure it suits your purpose. A caveat: I always use legal size paper when doing this, and if you change paper size I suspect you better double check/adjust the scale again. I mention the above, because when the need arises to cut out identical small parts as accurately as possible, this is a good step/method to know, at least its worked for me. Now, not only do we need to use the same tape measure throughout a project, we need to calibrate it, our CAD programs, AND our printers. :) as always YMMV ... -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 9/30/07 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
Printing Full Size Drawings
In article ,
todd wrote: "Frank Drackman" wrote in message ... Does anyone print full size drawings of their plans? I have developed most of my recent final drawings with CAD programs but don't have a large format printer. I was thinking on visiting the nearest Kinko's to see what they have to offer for large printers. Are there other places I should look? Kinkos wouldn't be a bad bet. Just up the street from my house is a place that does a lot of blueprint services, among other things. They also print drawings from a number of formats. They can even print on vellum or mylar if that would be helpful. You might also try looking for a place like that. the generic name for such shops, and the yellow pages directory heading, is "reprographics shops". Note: the _easy_ way to get big output is to get a PostScript printer, output full-size postscript from the CAD, package and send that througha 'posterizer' routine that will tile as many 8-1/2 x 11 sheets as needed to make the full drawing. |
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