Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as at
http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_001c_v001_zp?&$230x230_generic$
). Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight. I find that I have to hold it
at about 20degrees off the marked line (in a clockwise direction) in
order to get it to cut in the right place. I've tried loosening my grip
and also ensured that the sole plate was properly down on the work piece
(which was laminate-faced chipboard about 15mm thick).

Is it a technique thing? If so, what am I doing wrong? If not, is the
thing defective, and how would I confirm that?

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

On May 9, 6:15 pm, Henry Law wrote:
Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as athttp://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_00...
). Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight. I find that I have to hold it
at about 20degrees off the marked line (in a clockwise direction) in
order to get it to cut in the right place. I've tried loosening my grip
and also ensured that the sole plate was properly down on the work piece
(which was laminate-faced chipboard about 15mm thick).

Is it a technique thing? If so, what am I doing wrong? If not, is the
thing defective, and how would I confirm that?

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

Fresh blade. First circular cut dulls the blade on one side, making
it lead.

On Wed, 09 May 2007 23:15:19 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as at
http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_001c_v001_zp?&$230x230_generic$
). Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight.

So, you bought a crap jigsaw. Most of them are.

That's why every time there's a jigsaw thread hee or in uk.d-i-y,
there's a chorus of people saying to spend the money and get a Bosch
barrel body or maybe a Makita.

You buy crap tools - they work badly. QED.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 09 May 2007 23:15:19 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as at
http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_001c_v001_zp?&$230x230_generic$
). Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight.

So, you bought a crap jigsaw. Most of them are.

That's why every time there's a jigsaw thread hee or in uk.d-i-y,
there's a chorus of people saying to spend the money and get a Bosch
barrel body or maybe a Makita.

You buy crap tools - they work badly. QED.

Maybe if you didn't swallow the next time you suck a dick you'd be a little
more helpful!
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

Henry Law wrote:

Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as at

http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_001c_v001_zp?&$230x230_generic$

). Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight.

Doesn't look like a Bosch or even a Milwaukee to me.

Lew

Henry,
First order of business, does the blade you are using match the
material being cut. Just like any saw, there is a correct blade for the
material. If that is ok, then see if there is a stroke adjustment for the
blade. This alters the amount of forward stroke of the blade each time a cut
is made. This can be affected by blade used and the material being cut.
Sometime you just have to play with the amount of stroke to get a better
cut. And, yes ALL jig saws wander. They are really made for following odds
shaped cuts rather than straight cuts. I have used my circular saw to cut
the straight sections, leaving the odd shapes to the jigsaw. However I have
found after trying several others, the Bosch does seems to cut straighter
than the other yellow jigsaw I have. Lastly if you do choose to use the
jigsaw to make straight cuts, use a fence to guide the saw and the slower
the you move the saw forward the better your control. Good Luck
Paul


"Henry Law" wrote in message
...
Tried out my new toy today - a hand-held jigsaw (as at
http://s7ondemand4.scene7.com/is/servlet/izoom/BandQ/5397007003154_001c_v001_zp?&$230x230_generic$ )
. Trouble is, it doesn't cut straight. I find that I have to hold it at
about 20degrees off the marked line (in a clockwise direction) in order to
get it to cut in the right place. I've tried loosening my grip and also
ensured that the sole plate was properly down on the work piece (which was
laminate-faced chipboard about 15mm thick).

Is it a technique thing? If so, what am I doing wrong? If not, is the
thing defective, and how would I confirm that?

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

Is it a technique thing? If so, what am I doing wrong? If not, is the
thing defective, and how would I confirm that?


Henry Law Manchester, England

Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
and it could be the machine is at fault. But a couple of things to
consider. As pointed out above, make sure you have a quality blade
on the machine. Those little stamped gizmo blades are almost of no
value at all. I use this rule for a wood cutting blade: you should
be able to easily prick your finger on the blade. If you can't, buy a
better blade.

Try the "swiss filed" type of blades for the saw. The laminated chip
board can be tough on blades since the resin in the laminate will get
soft and clog up your blades if it starts to get hot (which cheap
blades do).
Also, the hotter the blade gets, the more it will wander.
Worse, some of those blades are of such low quality they flex in the
saw, and then you are totally screwed.

For something like that (oatmeal grade chipboard laminated with
plastic) I use the 5-6 tooth swiss file Bosch blades. These cute
quite well, last a reasonable amount of time, and won't give you a
rough cut.

This evening I cut five poker table tops (36" X 95") out of 3/4 birch
ply and10 build up trim rings of mdf with my Bosch using these blades,
and only used three!

Don't push the saw. Lower powered saws overload easily, and make good
cutting almost impossible.

To see if it is you or the saw, try this:

Get a good, sharp blade. (See above). Put a straight line on a piece
of your laminate board, and try cutting just a straight line, no
curves. If it cuts at ninety degrees in a straight line, then you are
set as you know it was probably the blade. If it is still at 20
degrees, take the saw back and let go of some more dough.

If it does cut straight along the line, try a gentle curve. Still
straight? Looking more like the blade all the time. a few degrees of
slant? Probably technique. You may need to slow down with the saw,
or speed up the blade.
Like anything else, it take some practice.

Good luck!

Oh yeah, don't get discouraged when someone trashes your tools or
ideas around here. Like any other group, sometimes the peckerheads
are the loudest. There are plenty of good folks and plenty of great
info here.

Robert

The best answer yet. Good one.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
and it could be the machine is at fault. But a couple of things to
consider. As pointed out above, make sure you have a quality blade
on the machine. Those little stamped gizmo blades are almost of no
value at all. I use this rule for a wood cutting blade: you should
be able to easily prick your finger on the blade. If you can't, buy a
better blade.

Try the "swiss filed" type of blades for the saw. The laminated chip
board can be tough on blades since the resin in the laminate will get
soft and clog up your blades if it starts to get hot (which cheap
blades do).
Also, the hotter the blade gets, the more it will wander.
Worse, some of those blades are of such low quality they flex in the
saw, and then you are totally screwed.

For something like that (oatmeal grade chipboard laminated with
plastic) I use the 5-6 tooth swiss file Bosch blades. These cute
quite well, last a reasonable amount of time, and won't give you a
rough cut.

This evening I cut five poker table tops (36" X 95") out of 3/4 birch
ply and10 build up trim rings of mdf with my Bosch using these blades,
and only used three!

Don't push the saw. Lower powered saws overload easily, and make good
cutting almost impossible.

To see if it is you or the saw, try this:

Get a good, sharp blade. (See above). Put a straight line on a piece
of your laminate board, and try cutting just a straight line, no
curves. If it cuts at ninety degrees in a straight line, then you are
set as you know it was probably the blade. If it is still at 20
degrees, take the saw back and let go of some more dough.

If it does cut straight along the line, try a gentle curve. Still
straight? Looking more like the blade all the time. a few degrees of
slant? Probably technique. You may need to slow down with the saw,
or speed up the blade.
Like anything else, it take some practice.

Good luck!

Oh yeah, don't get discouraged when someone trashes your tools or
ideas around here. Like any other group, sometimes the peckerheads
are the loudest. There are plenty of good folks and plenty of great
info here.

Robert

just do it normal



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

wrote:

Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
and it could be the machine is at fault.

.... and numerous others wrote good stuff too. Thank you all (with the
possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
lot). I'll make sure the blades are good, and the right ones for the
job, and practice. But I'm getting the message that a jig saw isn't
good for long straight cuts; I guess I'll still be using my hand saws
for a while yet!

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

Henry Law wrote:

But I'm getting the message that a jig saw isn't
good for long straight cuts; I guess I'll still be using my hand saws
for a while yet!

Do you have a router?

Before I had access to a table saw, made proud cuts with a saber (jig)
saw, then cleaned them up with a router and a straight edge.


Lew

On Sat, 12 May 2007 19:00:46 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

But I'm getting the message that a jig saw isn't
good for long straight cuts; I guess I'll still be using my hand saws
for a while yet!

No, jigsaws are for short cuts, usually curved or oddly shaped. If
you want long, straight cuts and don't have a tablesaw, get a circular
saw and a straight-edge. You just can't get that very well from a
jigsaw.

On Sat, 12 May 2007 22:26:00 GMT, Brian Henderson
wrote:

No, jigsaws are for short cuts, usually curved or oddly shaped. If
you want long, straight cuts and don't have a tablesaw, get a circular
saw and a straight-edge. You just can't get that very well from a
jigsaw.

FWIW, I do all of my rough outs of sheet stock with a straight edge
and a Bosch jigsaw. With good tools and decent technique, it can work
out quite well!

On Sat, 12 May 2007 22:34:52 GMT, B A R R Y
wrote:

FWIW, I do all of my rough outs of sheet stock with a straight edge
and a Bosch jigsaw. With good tools and decent technique, it can work
out quite well!

I'm not saying it's not possible, it's just not made for it. You can
do all of your cuts with a scrollsaw too if you're really slow and
careful but that's really not what a scrollsaw is for.

On Sat, 12 May 2007 19:00:46 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

Thank you all (with the
possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
lot).

That's as may be Henry, but you're the one whose jigsaw doesn't cut
straight. Mine works fine.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 12 May 2007 19:00:46 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

Thank you all (with the
possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
lot).

That's as may be Henry, but you're the one whose jigsaw doesn't cut
straight. Mine works fine.

Then use it on your fingers, moron!
--

"Anybody can have more birthdays; but it takes
balls to get old!"

Henry Law wrote:
: wrote:
:
: Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
: and it could be the machine is at fault.

: ... and numerous others wrote good stuff too. Thank you all (with the
: possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
: lot).



Yes it was.

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw. A cheapo sander, drill, circular saw all work,
but a cheapo jigsaw can just ruin whatever you're trying to cut.

It may be hard to hear that you've wasted your money, but the photo
you sent is of a brand I never heard of, so I'm guessing it's
not spiffy.

Spend the $125-150 necessary to get a good one; it'll be
a pleasure to use.

-- Andy Barss

Andrew Barss wrote:

Henry Law wrote:
: wrote:
:
: Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
: and it could be the machine is at fault.

: ... and numerous others wrote good stuff too. Thank you all (with the
: possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
: lot).



Yes it was.

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw. A cheapo sander, drill, circular saw all work,
but a cheapo jigsaw can just ruin whatever you're trying to cut.

It may be hard to hear that you've wasted your money, but the photo
you sent is of a brand I never heard of, so I'm guessing it's
not spiffy.

Spend the $125-150 necessary to get a good one; it'll be
a pleasure to use.

Seconded, I would love a decent jigsaw. I use my crappy B&D for stuff I
don't care about or I cut to leave the line and expect to have to clean
up afterwards. I also bought a coping saw and taught myself how to use
it, and a bearing guided straight cutter for the router so I can make
ONE pattern in something like hardboard, use the jigsaw to leave the
line then the router to make exact copies.

For straight cuts I generally use a decent handsaw then clean up with a
plane. Good for the arm muscles.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On 17 May, 01:02, Andrew Barss wrote:

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw.

Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
it. But _why_ ?

What's so special about jigsaws? Is there a particular component
that's not doing its bit? How do you tell a good one from a bad one?

I'm assuming it's the blade guides more than anything (as a total
guess). So what's a good design of guide that works, and what doesn't?

Andy Dingley wrote:

On 17 May, 01:02, Andrew Barss wrote:

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw.

Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
it. But _why_ ?

What's so special about jigsaws? Is there a particular component
that's not doing its bit? How do you tell a good one from a bad one?

I'm assuming it's the blade guides more than anything (as a total
guess). So what's a good design of guide that works, and what doesn't?

I suspect it is partly how robust the units are, which can at base
reduce vibration which in a jigsaw will make it wander. I have almost
given up using my B&D circular saw as the motor is so heavy wrt the
baseplate with most of that weight lateral that it almost never cuts
square as the join between the baseplate and the motor flexes. It is
actually worse if you set the depth of cut apropriately. Of course at
the time I bought it....

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
On 17 May, 01:02, Andrew Barss wrote:

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw.

Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
it. But _why_ ?

Because it is flawed empiricism ... a trip to any Harbor Freight will
conclusively prove that his "awareness" is lacking.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I think this is a pretty subjective statement - as someone who got
scared away from cheap equipment by my craftsman router and a now
twisted bit, I would've said the same thing about routers.

On May 16, 8:02 pm, Andrew Barss wrote:
Henry Law wrote:
: wrote:

:
: Henry, congrats on your new toy. These aren't the sturdiest machines,
: and it could be the machine is at fault.

: ... and numerous others wrote good stuff too. Thank you all (with the
: possible exception of Andy Dingley, whose contribution wasn't worth a
: lot).

Yes it was.

I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
a jigsaw. A cheapo sander, drill, circular saw all work,
but a cheapo jigsaw can just ruin whatever you're trying to cut.

It may be hard to hear that you've wasted your money, but the photo
you sent is of a brand I never heard of, so I'm guessing it's
not spiffy.

Spend the $125-150 necessary to get a good one; it'll be
a pleasure to use.

-- Andy Barss

Andy Dingley wrote in
s.com:

Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
it. But _why_ ?

What's so special about jigsaws? Is there a particular component
that's not doing its bit? How do you tell a good one from a bad one?

*snip*

It's one of the few common tools that relies on the motor to produce an
up and down motion rather than just spinning a bit or a blade. More
parts = less tolerance.

That's my guess anyway. Anyone here familiar with scroll saws enough to
say if this may hold true?

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

I have never opened one up but I would say that the difference is
counterbalancing. Converting a rotary motion to linear motion is common.
Think about an engine crankshaft. The crank has counterbalance lobes to
smooth vibration. Same principal would apply to a jigsaw.

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...
Andy Dingley wrote in
s.com:

Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
it. But _why_ ?

What's so special about jigsaws? Is there a particular component
that's not doing its bit? How do you tell a good one from a bad one?

*snip*

It's one of the few common tools that relies on the motor to produce an
up and down motion rather than just spinning a bit or a blade. More
parts = less tolerance.

That's my guess anyway. Anyone here familiar with scroll saws enough to
say if this may hold true?

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On 17 May 2007 09:14:14 -0700, Richk wrote:

I think this is a pretty subjective statement

If it is, it's a commony held one.

I'd never advocate spending big money on a cordless drill, rarely for
circular saws or sanders, but always for jigsaws. A cheap jigsaw --
every cheap jigsaw -- is tirign to use and performs poorly compared to a
good one.


- as someone who got
scared away from cheap equipment by my craftsman router and a now
twisted bit, I would've said the same thing about routers.

Cheap routers are often unpleasant to use and sometimes downright
dangerous, but I've rarely seen one that couldn't be persuaded to
deliver good results (on smaller work within its capacity)

Andy Dingley wrote:

- as someone who got
scared away from cheap equipment by my craftsman router and a now
twisted bit, I would've said the same thing about routers.

Cheap routers are often unpleasant to use and sometimes downright
dangerous, but I've rarely seen one that couldn't be persuaded to
deliver good results (on smaller work within its capacity)

Agreed, the way to go with routers on a budget is to put your money into
good bits. A crap bit in an expensive router will still give crap
results.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Swingman wrote:

: "Andy Dingley" wrote in message
: On 17 May, 01:02, Andrew Barss wrote:
:
: I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
: between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
: a jigsaw.
:
: Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
: it. But _why_ ?

: Because it is flawed empiricism ... a trip to any Harbor Freight will
: conclusively prove that his "awareness" is lacking.


Well, if you've gotten a good inexpensive jigsaw at HF, then good for you.
The way to be useful and helpful to other woodworkers would be, for example,
to post the model number. Not to cast general aspersions on a mild statement.

And you might want to find out what "empiricism" means before you use it.

-- Andy Barss

"Andrew Barss" wrote in message

Swingman wrote:

: "Andy Dingley" wrote in message
: On 17 May, 01:02, Andrew Barss wrote:
:
: I'm not aware of any tool where the difference in quality
: between a lower-end unit and a good one is more apparent than
: a jigsaw.
:
: Why is that? As an empirical observation, few would disagree with
: it. But _why_ ?

: Because it is flawed empiricism ... a trip to any Harbor Freight will
: conclusively prove that his "awareness" is lacking.


Well, if you've gotten a good inexpensive jigsaw at HF, then good for you.
The way to be useful and helpful to other woodworkers would be, for
example,
to post the model number. Not to cast general aspersions on a mild
statement.

And you might want to find out what "empiricism" means before you use it.

Well, Andrew me lad, you consistently show that your awareness of issues is
insufficient to make judgments based on observation and experience, and the
above is no exception ... too damn bad taxpayers have to foot the bill for
your twaddle.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Sat, 19 May 2007 17:33:43 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss wrote:
....
And you might want to find out what "empiricism" means before you use it.


Ref: Merriam Webster Online Dictionary

Main Entry: em·pir·i·cism
Pronunciation: im-'pir-&-"si-z&m, em-
Function: noun
1 a : a former school of medical practice founded on experience
without the aid of science or theory b : QUACKERY, CHARLATANRY
2 a : the practice of relying on observation and experiment especially
in the natural sciences b : a tenet arrived at empirically
3 : a theory that all knowledge originates in experience
- em·pir·i·cist /-sist/ noun



Seems like definition 2b is pretty close to what was meant.

Tom Veatch wrote in message
On Sat, 19 May 2007 17:33:43 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss wrote:
...
And you might want to find out what "empiricism" means before you use it.


Ref: Merriam Webster Online Dictionary

Main Entry: em·pir·i·cism
Pronunciation: im-'pir-&-"si-z&m, em-
Function: noun
1 a : a former school of medical practice founded on experience
without the aid of science or theory b : QUACKERY, CHARLATANRY
2 a : the practice of relying on observation and experiment especially
in the natural sciences b : a tenet arrived at empirically
3 : a theory that all knowledge originates in experience
- em·pir·i·cist /-sist/ noun



Seems like definition 2b is pretty close to what was meant.

Give that man a cigar! Don't be too hard on Andrew, he just forgot to do his
usual DAGS and he's historically lost without it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)