I have a nice table saw and compound miter saw but have little
experince with routers. I built a number of cabinet doors with a
friends help, using his equipment. He has about 8 routers, a number
of router tables, etc. I am trying to get a feel for what would be
the best setup for me to start with. I don't mind buying quality and
would prefer to have a setup that I can use for years, however, I
can't afford to spend a thousand or even thousands of dollars as my
friend has. I need to get the most bang for the buck.

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

On May 4, 6:52 pm, wrote:
I have a nice table saw and compound miter saw but have little
experince with routers. I built a number of cabinet doors with a
friends help, using his equipment. He has about 8 routers, a number
of router tables, etc. I am trying to get a feel for what would be
the best setup for me to start with. I don't mind buying quality and
would prefer to have a setup that I can use for years, however, I
can't afford to spend a thousand or even thousands of dollars as my
friend has. I need to get the most bang for the buck.

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

Sounds like you might want to ask your friend. I've got 4 routers, one
(3.25 hp) lives in the table that I made. One big plunger, and two
smaller fixed base for travelling. Like a weapon, it's better to have
it and not need it, rather than need it and not have it....Spend the
money. Tom

wrote in news:1178329964.975482.318880
@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

I have a nice table saw and compound miter saw but have little
experince with routers. I built a number of cabinet doors with a
friends help, using his equipment. He has about 8 routers, a number
of router tables, etc. I am trying to get a feel for what would be
the best setup for me to start with. I don't mind buying quality and
would prefer to have a setup that I can use for years, however, I
can't afford to spend a thousand or even thousands of dollars as my
friend has. I need to get the most bang for the buck.

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?



If you stick with the hobby, you're going to have a number of router
tables over time. So start by making a simple one to learn on.

A flat piece of stock, with a hole cut for the router to stick through,
and a fence of jointed hardwood clamped to it will work. You could
maybe spend $35 on all of the parts if you tried, plus the router.

Pat Warner's site will give you a really solid explanation of what, why
and how. www.patwarner.com. He'll also tell you about the routers you
should consider. He likes DeWalt. I use Porter Cable routers, but lots
of DeWalt other tools, so DeWalt is not a bad option in my book. There
are at least half a dozen good brands of routers in that pack.

But start simple. You may stay there, happily. Lots of us do.

Patriarch

You can make do with a "1.5 HP" class router for a long time before
you need more. Mine was a PC 690 plunge, I still have it but recently
added the fixed base for it and built a router table with a "3 HP"
class router motor in it.

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects...r/oldtable.jpg

What do you recommend?

Start simple - get a decent router (plenty of brands mentioned in the
archives here, or look up magazine reviews, or check out Pat Warner's
site), and make a simple table (as long as it's flat and has a
straight fence, it should be fine.) Rockler and MLCS have some
reasonably-priced tables if you really don't want to spend time making
your own, or look at reviews on Amazon for some of the major brands.
If you can find a deal on a combo plunge-fixed base kit, I'd
recommend it, but it could be that one or the other will suit you fine
- depends on what you want to do. I have a Dewalt 618 with a fixed
base that lives in a table and a plunge base I use for handheld tasks
- motor is easy to switch back and forth, and I've never found the
2.25hp to be underpowered. I usually leave the router in the table
whenever possible - often more accurate, better dust collection, and
safer.
Bigger (more HP) is better if it's staying in a table, but usually
more awkward handheld. There are a couple of 3+HP models for $200ish
that are supposed to be pretty good - look at the Triton at Woodcraft
(and a recent thread here), and a Hitachi at Amazon. But then you
should be able to get a good brand fixed-plunge kit for about that
price also. Depends on your intended usage - unless you do a lot of
routing with really big bits (i.e. panel-raising), the mid-sized
(2+HP) models would probably be more versatile.
I recently added a PC laminate trimmer to my collection, which I've
found VERY handy for many small handheld routing jobs, so that's
another option to consider if you want to leave a larger router in a
table.
I certainly don't think it's necessary to spend $1K right off the bat
- you could get a nice setup (pre-made router table, med-large table
router, and laminate trimmer) for $500 if you shop around a bit, or
$150-200 if you want to just buy a good router and make your own
table. Good bits are expensive too, but just buy them as you need
them, and don't worry about getting every single profile as soon as
you get your router.
Good luck and have fun woodworking,
Andy

wrote:
What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?


Two routers are better than one. If you can spring for two, get a heavy one to
be mounted in a table essentially permanently and then have a medium HP one with
two bases for hand held use.

While you could always make do with just one, you're going to find it a major
PITA. A good heavy duty router will give you good service in a table but will
probably be too heavy for much hand held use. A handier sized router may not
have the oomph you'e looking for to use in a table. And mounting and
dismounting routers gets to be a real hassle after a very short time.

I have a PC 7518 3 1/4 HP router mounted on a wing of my table saw along with a
PC 893 2 1/4 HP handheld unit. One of these days I'll spring for a little
laminate router as well.

YMMV.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

On May 4, 9:52 pm, wrote:
I have a nice table saw and compound miter saw but have little
experince with routers. I built a number of cabinet doors with a
friends help, using his equipment. He has about 8 routers, a number
of router tables, etc. I am trying to get a feel for what would be
the best setup for me to start with. I don't mind buying quality and
would prefer to have a setup that I can use for years, however, I
can't afford to spend a thousand or even thousands of dollars as my
friend has. I need to get the most bang for the buck.

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

I picked the PC because I knew I would only have one for quite a while
and most of the aftermarket gadgets are made to fit them. Kind of
like racing and small block chevy engines.

You can usually find this kit or one with a slightly different stock
number for less than $200.
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-6.../dp/B00006411I
Sometimes you can even find it with a third base (D-handle) thrown in
via rebate.

Whatever you get make sure it is variable speed.

"RayV" wrote in message
oups.com...

Whatever you get make sure it is variable speed.

Yeah, that way you can turn it down every once in a while so you know the
control still works.

I have the Hitachi Multi base set with Variable speed and I love it, great
flexability. When I made my router table (in my table saw extension to save
room) I found that when it was mounted, I needed it free hand, and when it
was loose, I needed it mounted. I too was on a limited budget so I went to
Rockler, I bought a combo set they had that I wanted anyway which was the PC
690 fixed base and thier top end dovetail jig for $199. I then bought a new
router table insert from Rockler and they had a deal where you could get a
table base for a 690 for 30 bucks. Works great for almost all my work, but,
it WILL NOT work with a panel set of any of the big bits, I'm going to get
the Hitachi 3.5 hp Variable Speed Plunge from amazon for about 180 as soon
as im done with my lathe accessories.

Have fun

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a nice table saw and compound miter saw but have little
experince with routers. I built a number of cabinet doors with a
friends help, using his equipment. He has about 8 routers, a number
of router tables, etc. I am trying to get a feel for what would be
the best setup for me to start with. I don't mind buying quality and
would prefer to have a setup that I can use for years, however, I
can't afford to spend a thousand or even thousands of dollars as my
friend has. I need to get the most bang for the buck.

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base
router? Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table?
What is the best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What
should be the minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...

"RayV" wrote in message
oups.com...

Whatever you get make sure it is variable speed.

Yeah, that way you can turn it down every once in a while so you know the
control still works.



Yeah, on that model, I am not sure I would want to spin a bit big enough
that would require a slower speed.

wrote in message
oups.com...
snip
What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base router?
Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table? What is the
best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What should be the
minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

I'd recommend that you buy only one router in the 2 to 2.5 HP range with two
bases - fixed and plunge - and make or build a router table or table
extension for your table saw. With a lot less expenditure on machines you
will better afford more bits and attachments and get to experiment on
various types of projects before settling on the style of woodworking your
will likely be performing most. Then, buy the next machine of the type
demanded by the projects. It's going to amaze you how much you can spend on
templates, guides and bits. Have a blast. You're gonna love it!

"Neil Larson" wrote in
t:

snip I'm going to get the
Hitachi 3.5 hp Variable Speed Plunge from amazon for about 180 as soon
as im done with my lathe accessories.


Here's a clue, Neil, from a fellow addict:

You're never done buying lathe accessories.

Patriarch

wrote:

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base router?
Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table? What is the
best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What should be the
minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

There are several kits available that include a plunge as well as a
fixed base in the 1-1/2 HP range.

If you get an extra fixed base, it can be left in a table while the
remaining fixed base can be used for hand held applications.

There are certain operations that require a plunge base, just no safe
way around it.

Build your own table which can be as simple as a piece of MDF resting
on a couple of saw horses or as complex as the NYW unit which is what
I built.

Once upon a time Porter-Cable ruled, but these days not so sure.

Check out Pat Warner's site for more router info.

Expect to spend $200-$250 plus extra for bits.

Lew

wrote in message

What do you recommend? Do I need a fixed base and a plunge base router?
Is it best to have one permanently installed in a table? What is the
best table to use? Is more horsepower always better? What should be the
minimum hp to be most useful over a wide range of
projects?

There are needs and there are wants. Long term, you want a fixed base
mounted in a table adn just left there. Short term, ther eis use for both
fixed and plunge so a kit with changable bases is a good way to start.

In general, more HP is better, but for hand held, more weight = harder for a
newbie to handle. If you get a second fixed base for the table, then go for
big. I use the table mounted router for 90% of my routing work. I also
have a lift making it simple to adjust and run up and down to change bits.

Starting over, I'd buy a DeWalt router with two bases (or equal Bosch, PC,
etc) and make a simple table. Once I found out from practice what I really
wanted, I'd make a very nice table and mount a 3 HP router in it.

Wayyyyyyyyyyy too true.

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 136...
"Neil Larson" wrote in
t:

snip I'm going to get the
Hitachi 3.5 hp Variable Speed Plunge from amazon for about 180 as soon
as im done with my lathe accessories.


Here's a clue, Neil, from a fellow addict:

You're never done buying lathe accessories.

Patriarch