Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned to
4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact with
clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?
Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.

"Lee" wrote in message

Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?

IME, 150 is plenty far enough ... 180 for the anal.

Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.

IME, sand/steel wool, lightly, only after the first coat unless there is an
obvious need to between coats.

Then wait 30 days and rub down with a brown paper bag.

YMMV ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

Sounds like a good plan, but what is with the paper bag?
"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Lee" wrote in message

Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?

IME, 150 is plenty far enough ... 180 for the anal.

Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.

IME, sand/steel wool, lightly, only after the first coat unless there is
an
obvious need to between coats.

Then wait 30 days and rub down with a brown paper bag.

YMMV ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

"Lee" wrote:

but what is with the paper bag?

A very fine "abrasive" ... there are "film" type abrasives that work equally
as well, but a brown paper bag is a whole lot cheaper. I use the paper from
a grocery bag to rub down the final coat on all the shellacked pieces I
spray.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07

"Lee" wrote in message
t...
Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned
to 4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact
with clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?
Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.
Seems to me that if there are any undried oil to be in contact with clothing
then you don't have any chance of getting shellac to bond to it.
Am I misunderstanding something here?

A bit. The exterior will be tung oil but the interior shellac. Hopefully
I will be able to keep the two apart.
I plan on applying the shellac first ( to the interior only) then the oil to
the exterior
.. That way I hope to sand any overage shellac off where the oil will be.
I would rather not have any oil finish in the storage area.
"Toller" wrote in message
...

"Lee" wrote in message
t...
Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned
to 4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact
with clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?
Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.
Seems to me that if there are any undried oil to be in contact with
clothing then you don't have any chance of getting shellac to bond to it.
Am I misunderstanding something here?

Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned
to 4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact
with clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?



Bond well? Shellac is and evaporative finish. This means that when you
apply one coat of evaporative finish on top of another, the solvent of the
new coat partially dissolves the previous coat, and thus forms a bond
between coats.

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Seems to me that if there are any undried oil to be in contact with
clothing then you don't have any chance of getting shellac to bond to it.
Am I misunderstanding something here?


Shellac will bond with oil. It's often used to connect dissimilar finishes,
including oils.

Sorry if I wasn't clear. The shellac will be put on the raw wood


"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned
to 4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact
with clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?



Bond well? Shellac is and evaporative finish. This means that when you
apply one coat of evaporative finish on top of another, the solvent of the
new coat partially dissolves the previous coat, and thus forms a bond
between coats.

--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com

On Thu, 01 Mar 2007 01:22:26 GMT, "Lee" wrote:


Sorry if I wasn't clear. The shellac will be put on the raw wood


Generally the first coat of shellac is going to penetrate into the
wood, depending on the shellac "cut" (dilution). The solvent is
alcohol and that will soak into most woods enough to establish a
"bond" at relatively high grit numbers.

What kind of wood is the inside (closed pore or open pore)? Do you
want a very smooth glossy finish?

The higher the last grit of sandpaper, the smoother the wood and the
harder it is for a liquid to penetrate. For the inside of a chest, I
think I'd stop at 180, again, depending on the type of wood and how
smooth you want the finish.

And by the way, the best thing to do is try the finish on some scraps
first. No sense guessing when dealing with a finish.

The higher the last grit of sandpaper, the smoother the wood and the
harder it is for a liquid to penetrate.

Why would it be more difficult for the finish to penetrate at higher grits?
The pores are still going to be there at the same density and the same pore
diameter.?. The only thing that has changed is that the scratches left by
the lower grits are finer. Why would 'finer' scratches produces less
penetration of an alcohol soluble finish? Unless I am mistaken, most of the
finish is going to penetrate into pores, not scratches.

On Feb 28, 5:12 pm, "Lee" wrote:
Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned to
4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact with
clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?
Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.

Do a test, but I wouldn't worry. Shellac will stick to oily wood
better
than anything else except oil. I've never had it not stick when
French
polishing with a mineral oil - pumice prep. The shellac sinks under
the
oil, displacing it to be wiped off with naptha as the final step.

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
news

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Seems to me that if there are any undried oil to be in contact with
clothing then you don't have any chance of getting shellac to bond to it.
Am I misunderstanding something here?


Shellac will bond with oil. It's often used to connect dissimilar
finishes, including oils.
I misunderstood the OP; he wants to put the oil and shellac in different
places.
Sorry.

Thank You one and all for the help
"Lee" wrote in message
t...
Finishing blanket chest.
Outside sanded through 0000 steel wool and then tung oil.(4 coats thinned
to 4-1)
Inside using amber shellac because I'm not crazy about oils in contact
with clothing.
Question is.....how far do I go so that shellac will bond well. 150? 180?
220?
Planning on 3 coats. sanded between coats.

"Stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
The higher the last grit of sandpaper, the smoother the wood and the
harder it is for a liquid to penetrate.

Why would it be more difficult for the finish to penetrate at higher
grits? The pores are still going to be there at the same density and the
same pore diameter.?. The only thing that has changed is that the
scratches left by the lower grits are finer. Why would 'finer'
scratches produces less penetration of an alcohol soluble finish? Unless
I am mistaken, most of the finish is going to penetrate into pores, not
scratches.


Extremely high grits are more prone to burnishing the wood, which will
harden and tighten the fibers to the point where a high viscosity finish has
a difficult time penetrating.

Shellac works like water, because of its polar solvent, so it's the
equivalent of that water wipe you use to set up those fibers and break the
case-hardening. Sand until you're happy, apply the first coat of shellac,
and you'll still have to dewhisker a bit.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
news

"Toller" wrote in message
...


Seems to me that if there are any undried oil to be in contact with
clothing then you don't have any chance of getting shellac to bond to
it.
Am I misunderstanding something here?


Shellac will bond with oil. It's often used to connect dissimilar
finishes, including oils.
I misunderstood the OP; he wants to put the oil and shellac in different
places.
Sorry.

Either way, Shellac will still bond with an oil finish. I know he's
planning to do the two seperately, but shellac is often used to provide a
bond between two dissimilar finishes. Just fyi.