I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Any opoinions will be appreciated and taken with a grain of salt.

thanx

Russ

Fella at work didn't bother to ask until after he bought. So far:

$200 for the saw

Came with:
no side wings
no handles
no blade nut or flange
original fence system
3 phase motor
worn out heaters in motor starter

This thing will run over a $1000 before it is ready.

To answer your question:
The things have not changed since dirt, the parts are all still
available. You did not get hurt if the saw is functional.
Some of the fun of owning can be maintaining and resurrecting.


--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
(local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)


wrote in message
oups.com...
I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably
from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how
this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that
the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Any opoinions will be appreciated and taken with a grain of
salt.

thanx

Russ

A tablesaw is a very simple device. They haven't changed much in 100 years
and then, only in details. Anything that could be worn on it can be
replaced. Yes, you got a good deal.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Any opoinions will be appreciated and taken with a grain of salt.

thanx

Russ

The new Unisaws offer a left-tilting blade and the fence system has
been much improved. The on-off switch is different also. You can not
change the tilt but you can buy an aftermarket fence to match what is
being offered on the new ones. In my opinion you got a good deal so
long as the trunion is not cracked or has broken gear teeth and the
table is flat. Cracked gear teeth can be brazed and reformed but
there is not a lot you can do with a non-flat table (Notice to
nitpickers: Yes. I know about surface grinding but I also know what
machine shops get for this sort of work). I am sure you would have no
trouble reselling it for the price you paid--even if the table is out
a few thousandths.

Hi Russ:

You got a pretty good deal if any 5 of these 6 things are true:

The table is relatively flat
Both extension wings are present
The motor works
You have the flavor of electricity the motor likes (you didn't say if
it's single or 3-phase)
The arbor, trunions, and other mechanical pieces are not damaged
You have materials and skills to make replacements for what's missing
(fence, guard, etc.)

Perhaps my experience might be relevant he

I did the same thing about a year ago - bought a 1960's vintage
Powermatic 66 for $175 at a public school auction. It was well worn,
rusty and dirty. The fence was junk. The motor was 3-phase, and its
fan was broken. I did check it before bidding - top flat withn 0.010,
trunions and racks sound, etc. I figured the motor was dead, so I
didn't plan on going above $300 for it.

I spent 2 days cleaning the pitch buildup off the innards. I replaced
the arbor bearings ($22). I scrounged in the back room of a local
motor shop for a new motor fan (free). I already had a used VFD (from
a dumpster at work) to convert my 220V single-phase to 3-phase
(free). I bought 3 new, matched V-belts from NAPA ($28). I spent
another 2 days reassembling, adjusting out backlash, aligning, etc. I
spent about $30 on a few pieces of hardware and used a bunch of
material I had sitting around to build a Beisemeyer-style fence over
about a 2-week period. I spent another day to program the VFD, mount
it in an enclosure and hook up controls, etc. I bought a new
Excalibur Merlin splitter ($99), a pair of Board Buddies ($38), a zero-
clearance insert ($20) and a new Freud thin-kerf blade ($45). Throw
in $25 for cleaning supplies, paint, etc.

The result - my saw is at least as good as a new one, but for $482 and
about 40 hours labor spread over almost 2 months. The table and
extension wings are flat within 0.008. The blade is parallel to the
miter slots within 0.002 at any tilt angle. The VFD allows for smooth
start and rapid stop of the blade. My fence works great - better than
a Beis, because the main rail has 2 T-slots along the entire length of
every side. I made my fence rails long enough for a big extension
table, which I now have a router mounted in. Because I was fortunate
to have lots of the stuff already, most of which was free cast-offs
from work, it was mostly just time and effort. Had I bought a single-
phase motor and new Beis fence, I would have spent about $900 total,
which wouldn't have been such a great deal.

One more thing - it's kinda nice to know that I rebuilt it with my own
hands every time I use it.

Regards,
John.

On Jan 27, 2:54 pm, wrote:
I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Any opoinions will be appreciated and taken with a grain of salt.

thanx

Russ

On 30 Jan 2007 11:38:19 -0800, "the_tool_man"
wrote:

Hi Russ:


a zero-
clearance insert ($20) and a new Freud thin-kerf blade ($45). Throw
in $25 for cleaning supplies, paint, etc.


Just curious but why would a guy with the talent to do all that you
did (I am truly impressed) buy a zero-clearance insert when they are
so easy to make. I usually whip out several at the same time--even
drill and put in 4 allen screws for leveling.

Joe

Hi Joe:

I was in a hurry, and already in Woodcraft with a gift card in my
hand, and I didn't want to "spend the time" making one just then.
FWIW, by the time I added a kerf for the splitter, and clearance for
the arbor nut and splitter mount at 45 degree blade tilt, I could have
made one from scratch. I've made a few more inserts from scratch
since then, using my purchased one as a template.

Regards,
John.

On Jan 30, 10:01 pm, Joe Bleau wrote:
On 30 Jan 2007 11:38:19 -0800, "the_tool_man"
wrote:

Hi Russ:

a zero-
clearance insert ($20) and a new Freud thin-kerf blade ($45). Throw
in $25 for cleaning supplies, paint, etc.

Just curious but why would a guy with the talent to do all that you
did (I am truly impressed) buy a zero-clearance insert when they are
so easy to make. I usually whip out several at the same time--even
drill and put in 4 allen screws for leveling.

Joe

In article .com,
wrote:

I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Could be a really good deal, you may want to check this site:
http://www.sawcenter.com/

Lots of good information about your saw.

Sawdust Making 101
http://sawdustmaking.com

On 27 Jan 2007 11:54:50 -0800, wrote:

I recenly got a super deal on an old unisaw. ($350) Probably from the
50s or 60s. Assuming it is not wore out, I am wondering how this
machine stacks up against the newer models? I have noticed that the
only plastic on it is the cord.

Any opoinions will be appreciated and taken with a grain of salt.

Oh man, that thing has got to be wore out by now- everyone knows those
old Unisaws were fit for little more than slicing bread anyhow.

Tell you what, I'll take it off your hands for what you paid for it.


Seriously, though- nice drive-by gloat.

On Mon, 29 Jan 2007 23:47:39 -0500, Joe Bleau
wrote:

there is not a lot you can do with a non-flat table (Notice to
nitpickers: Yes. I know about surface grinding but I also know what
machine shops get for this sort of work).

Nitpick alert:

http://www.moglice.com/newsite/pages/straighttalk.html

Not a lot of difference between cast-iron ways and cast-iron saw tops.

I don't see the relevance here. Are you suggesting that he scrape it flat?
If so, that is not realistic. Any amount of unflatness in a tablesaw table
that would be of any concern to the operation of the machine would be far
more than scraping would help.

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 29 Jan 2007 23:47:39 -0500, Joe Bleau
wrote:

there is not a lot you can do with a non-flat table (Notice to
nitpickers: Yes. I know about surface grinding but I also know what
machine shops get for this sort of work).

Nitpick alert:

http://www.moglice.com/newsite/pages/straighttalk.html

Not a lot of difference between cast-iron ways and cast-iron saw tops.

Here's a Unisaw going for $150, at the moment. Don't know what it
will eventually go for, though. I'm not affiliated, in any way, with
this sale.
http://www.irsauctions.com/index_lot...etails&id=9758

Sonny

On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 14:58:16 GMT, "CW" wrote:

I don't see the relevance here. Are you suggesting that he scrape it flat?
If so, that is not realistic. Any amount of unflatness in a tablesaw table
that would be of any concern to the operation of the machine would be far
more than scraping would help.

You don't?

I was poking fun at the flatness guys, actually. I've seen about a
million threads where someone is agonizing over a table that is .003"
out of flat over a 50 inch span. A guy *could* hand scrape that, but
you'd have to really be worked up about it to make it worth your time.

What's really not realistic is the idea that a table saw needs to be
that flat in the first place. There's a point where it is unsafe or
unusable, but a stationary saw rarely gets to that point. A cheap
benchtop that has been thrown carelessly into the back of a work truck
for five years or so gets to that point- not a big cast-iron Unisaw.

To sum it up, an unrealistic expectation demands an unrealistic
repair!

When all done, $1000.00 for a saw put together the way you want with the
components you want is a great deal.
"DanG" wrote in message
...
Fella at work didn't bother to ask until after he bought. So far:

$200 for the saw

Came with:
no side wings
no handles
no blade nut or flange
original fence system
3 phase motor
worn out heaters in motor starter

This thing will run over a $1000 before it is ready.

OK. I just didn't see where you were going with this. I agree with you
completely. I just set up a new saw this weekend. Out of the five or six
dial and test indicators I have, all of them are in my toolbox, at work (Ed
Bennett's not going to like this). The strait edge I used for setup was made
of oak, planed strait with a #5. After zero setting the fence, I made three
cuts at various fence settings to check the accuracy. All were on within
..005 (did use dial caliper for this measurement). That Vega fence is great.
"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 14:58:16 GMT, "CW" wrote:

I don't see the relevance here. Are you suggesting that he scrape it
flat?
If so, that is not realistic. Any amount of unflatness in a tablesaw
table
that would be of any concern to the operation of the machine would be far
more than scraping would help.

You don't?

I was poking fun at the flatness guys, actually. I've seen about a
million threads where someone is agonizing over a table that is .003"
out of flat over a 50 inch span. A guy *could* hand scrape that, but
you'd have to really be worked up about it to make it worth your time.

What's really not realistic is the idea that a table saw needs to be
that flat in the first place. There's a point where it is unsafe or
unusable, but a stationary saw rarely gets to that point. A cheap
benchtop that has been thrown carelessly into the back of a work truck
for five years or so gets to that point- not a big cast-iron Unisaw.

To sum it up, an unrealistic expectation demands an unrealistic
repair!